Saylor Beall Compressor

[edl]

where would you rank this v. other compressors, say like quincy or champion or wayne?

they have been around since 1915 - made in US (for now)

new they price a bit below quincy

just never hear much about them

thanks

 

[Jay H 237]

I hear they are right up there with Quincy, kinda like Chevy is to Ford or Coke is to Pepsi........which ever you prefer or could get a better deal on. Either compressor would serve you well.

 

[edl]

thx Jay H 327

 

[OccupantRJ]

I run 2 SB's at work, and 2 at home. Good units, and well satisfied. Single stage 5 hp, 2 stage 5 hp at home, couple of V4 two stages at work, each 25 hp. Paid $1300 for both of them when another factory closed and liquidated. Compressor heads were almost brand new then. Ive run them 10 hours daily for over 15 years.

 

[7echo]

We run 4 Saylor Bealls at work, they are great units. Probably get another couple in the next budget, unless I can convince the boss to go with a rotary screw. I get mine from Joe at Plaza Machinery.

 

[torkum]

Been running this IR 5hp 2 stage for 9yrs.

 

[edl]

I've got the opportunity to buy an older one and i think i will pull the trigger

it is a model 705 from the 1960's - they still make the 705 - pretty cool

the support folks at SB told me exactly what the pump was from the casting numbers in the cast iron

the unit is set up with an 80g tank and 3hp motor (steady not peak)

thanks for the feedback

 

[JCQuick]

We are a saylor beall distributer where I work i had never heard of them before comming to work here. I'm very impressed by what I have seen in the last 6 years I get people in here wanting parts for a unit thats 50+ years old and still running strong.
I have 1 customer that uses the 9000 series in a fertilizer plant it runs 24/7 only gets shut down for service once a month Oil change and filters sometimes belts.

Also if anyone here needs to buy parts or a whole unit hit me up I'll make a deal my discount on complete units is very good and it includes freight

 

[fflintstone]

As a Quincy owner, I would have had no problems buying a SB if I had gotten the same deal as on my Quincy. I scoured CL 3-4 times a day for 3 months before I found my unit though.

FORD! PEPSI! ARRGGGHHH! Shouldn’t be allowed in the same sentence as greats like COKE and CHEVY!

 

[edl]

JC/FF - thanks for the input - getting the SB tomorrow!

 

[edl]

Got the SB - it is from 1961 - what a tremendous machine - this is the poster child for what america used to do when it actually manufactured - i'll take pictures and you'll see what i mean - as one example, the air filter housing is cast and has two internal removable parts that are die cast - the labels are all there under layers of grease - good paper - good chemicals - there is this very cool GE switch on it that i think runs a small motor for an autodrain - some of the wiring is original - no fraying - casing on wiring still good - the cast iron pumps are beautiful

i don't know why SB's get so little publicity (well, at least i hadn't really heard much about them) - they are a beautiful piece of american machinery

thanks

 

[rodm1]

They are the Snap-On of air compressors. The only problem is China is starting to move in to the product (mag starter, pipe fittings, drain,belts, motor pulley, unloader valve? and psi gage.

 

[BigBlue1]

Curtis compressors have been around longer. I believe since 1907. I love my 7 1/2 hp 29cfm at 175psi compressor. It will keep up with just about anything i throw at it.

 

[alex211]

Curtis compressors have been around longer. I believe since 1907. I love my 7 1/2 hp 29cfm at 175psi compressor. It will keep up with just about anything i throw at it.

This one? I'm considering buying one if it's any good.

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/FS-Curtis-775VT8-Air-Compressor/p4462.html

 

[trbomax]

I seem to have accumulated one each of all the major players in the compressor world. When I get everything up and running, I will have the old reliable 7.5 hp type 30,a 5 hp champion,and a 7.5 hp saylor beall. The quincy I'm not sure what I'll do with,but the complexity of the unloaders and cylinder head make me want to sideline it for now. I do agree that the quality and general appearence of the S-B is ,at least visually, impressive.

 

[SpiderGearsMan]

yeah , those are good

 

[edl]

pixxxxxxxx

 

[edl]

pixxxxxxxxxxxx

 

[edl]

pixxxxxxxxx

 

[edl]

55555555555555

 

[AJ1978]

Great Pictures. Nice Score.... I have a Saylor Beall Pump Sidelined for my set up if my current pump fails. I did alot of research on compressors, I decided I wanted the 5 HP 80 Gal 2 stage in SB or 2nd choice was Champion.... I had almost all the money in hand for a new SB, when I found a barely used Champion 5HP 80 Gal. I bought the used champion very cheap, and for a GREAT DEAL, works well, pumps great. BUt the next NEW setup will be a SB, hands down

 

[edl]

thanks AJ

one thing...does anyone know how to set the psi on this bad boy?

doesn't seem to be a gauge of any sort...

 

[Possum]

Set the psi as in set the high limit? If so the pressure switch is this dude -

- its a tension adjustment on a spring, but I can't help you on how to adjust it.

 

[edl]

Possum - thanks - what a funny coincidence - i have that exact same compressor!

thanks for this - for some reason i thought this was some sort of autodrain feature where excess pressure blew through to drain out the bottom

but got it - i'll take a closer look at this and let you know

thanks

 

[trbomax]

There are two adjustments. the large spring/nut is high limit. Clockwise increases the high limit. The smaller one is differential,or the difference between off and on. clockwise will bring the "on" and "off" closer.

 

[edl]

trbomax - thanks for this - very helpful - i'll check it out and snap a pic if i can - thanks

 

[edl]

well ... started her up last week for the first time

came up to pressure - but something seems loose at the bottom as water started spewing out - was quite a bit of water maybe a quart or two - at some point i think a valve got stuck in the open position b/c compressor was turning, but not generating a lot of pressure

breaking down the heads now and trying to get at the valve train

for those that know this compressor, what do you use to take out the valve caps - that is part number 4093 in figure 5 on page 10 of 20 of this pdf

http://www.saylor-beall.com/userfiles/file/Manuals/700SeriesManual.pdf

looks like flat stock of some sort could fit (tire iron?) - but how do you get purchase to unfasten? - and put a torque wrench to torque?

separately, does anyone have a color code for this vintage? - it is a blue with green in it - maybe a more blue than green color - it looks like more modern ones are grey/blue - but this vintage (1962) is more blue/green

thanks!

 

[930dreamer]

Page 14 #9 explains how to remove the valve assembly?

 

[edl]

930dreamer - page 13 #9 - exactly right - my question is more basic - if you look at page 9, figure 5, part #4093, this is the ****** i am having trouble with - the slot is huge - 3/8" by 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" deep - and it is seized up - i think the simple answer is how you get all other screwed in things unscrewed: PB Blaster, Kroil or equivalent, heat and a lot of torque - and i guess the implement should be 3/8" hardened flat stock - weld a handle on - seems like i have just answered my own question!

 

[djd99]

930dreamer - page 13 #9 - exactly right - my question is more basic - if you look at page 9, figure 5, part #4093, this is the ****** i am having trouble with - the slot is huge - 3/8" by 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" deep - and it is seized up - i think the simple answer is how you get all other screwed in things unscrewed: PB Blaster, Kroil or equivalent, heat and a lot of torque - and i guess the implement should be 3/8" hardened flat stock - weld a handle on - seems like i have just answered my own question!

Make one out of some flat stock and weld a handle on it, I'm in the process of rebuilding mine now so I'll be making the tool soon. I found mine at the salvage yard for 30 bucks that was in a fire. So far I sandblasted most of the parts and now have a complete rebuilt shortblock. If your going to rebuild yours throwing a little heat on the head to get them out would make it real easy, new springs come in the rebuild kit. Interesting tidbit my large piston was junk and a oem piston was too much So I ended up using a piston out of a 455 and fit great I have 6 thousands to play with. How ever the old piston was a 4 ring and the 455 was a 3 ring but for free I think it will work just fine.

 

[930dreamer]

Okay, those covers do have a huge slot, djd99 has the right idea, you sure don't want to break any parts. Keep us posted on your results.

 

[edl]

big slots need big tools...

oops forgot i was on the garage journal!!

 

[edl]

I found mine at the salvage yard for 30 bucks that was in a fire.

$30 - wow - that's a steal

 

[djd99]

She Looks pretty all sandblasted and painted black too!! lol

 

[edl]

buying something old brings a lot of things to light

1. there are a lot of great US companies, some of whom are still in business and some of whom that are still in business actually still make things and make them well

- so for example, one of the pictures above (Post #18, middle row, middle) shows the stamped steel tag for the tank mfg - turns out they are alive and well 50 yrs later making tanks for CNG cars and scuba, etc here http://www.pressedsteel.com/

- called SB for a color code to get some paint - turns out they use a company called SP Kish Industries, around since '46, here http://www.kishindustries.com/ , who kindly is sending a swatch since the formulation is theirs and doesn't correlate to something a store could mix

2. How little things change when they are good and correct to start with

- i will call SB with a question and they will fax me over a spec or a schematic from the 80's (or earlier) b/c they have been making it the same way forever

3. How pushing a huge amount of air slowly is a lot easier on the ears then pushing a small amount rapidly

4. How good steel used to be made

- this thing sat out of service for almost 2 years when i bought it - the first (and only) time i fired it up and it went to pressure, about 2-3 gallons of water came out of the bottom - alot - and none of it was rust colored

5. And, like everything else in this world teaches me, how little i know!

OK - enough with the BS and on to some technical questions:

- the cylinder head is stuck to the cylinder b/c the gasket petrified - short of taking a pry bar or screw driver to it (which will gouge the iron), is there another way to get these apart? - heat? - PB Blaster? - any good tips or tricks?

- i am assuming the problem i am having is valves that are stuck open - if it turns out that i can still use the valve train instead of replacing it, what should i use to clean up the varnish and gunk that will be in there? - mineral spirits?

- what should i use to clean out the inside pasages of the pump and the exhaust manifold - when i stick a finger in there there is a bit of an oil film and grime - should i swish it out with mineral spirits? - or a degreaser like simple green? - if the latter, do i need to worry about flash rusting in there?

thanks!

 

[930dreamer]

Most pump case insides are painted with a red oxide color paint or other color. I put my Gardner Denver case into the solvant tank with no issues. Try a little heat on the head and see if its loosens up.

 

[edl]

930D - you are right - i did see some red paint in there - OK...so swish some solvent through there - got it - thx

 

[edl]

930D - what kind of compressor is your avatar?

 

[edl]

There are two adjustments. the large spring/nut is high limit. Clockwise increases the high limit. The smaller one is differential,or the difference between off and on. clockwise will bring the "on" and "off" closer.

Trbomax - when you say bring on closer to off, that means on turns on sooner b/c it is set a higher pressure - right?

 

[930dreamer]

930D - what kind of compressor is your avatar?

Kellogg American 7.5 hp, my next project. I picked this up for .99 cents