Saylor-Beall Rebuild

[jonathan75]

I set up the final assembly parts table to separate the cleaned, painted and prepped parts. My staging table is getting messy but it will clear off one part at a time and make its way to the white table.

 

[TwoInch]

cant wait to see it together!

 

[TwoInch]

painting the inside is totally unnecessary.

the oil does not need to shed the walls any faster than it does already. i would not worry about such things, or waste the money on special paints.

 

[Burgerkong]

You really should paint the inside.It acomplishes 2 things. One,it speeds oil flow back to the sump, alowing for better cooling, and it "nails down" any grit or remaining dirt left from machineing. I used to paint all of the interior of my blower motors after de-flashing and smoothing the castings. You can use rustoleum but the best is Glyptal,used for painting the inside of electric motors.Use a 1" brush,dont spray,and dont do the gasket surfaces.

Yeah, I'm going to see if I can find their 'damp-proof' primer locally. But that means trying to get every last bit of oil out of the crankcase which is hard without throwing more money around lol. I've read conflicting stories about oil and electrolysis, some people say oil blocks the process, others say it draws out all the oils/greases from the blocks. Anyone can confirm?

 

[jonathan75]

Yeah, I'm going to see if I can find their 'damp-proof' primer locally. But that means trying to get every last bit of oil out of the crankcase which is hard without throwing more money around lol. I've read conflicting stories about oil and electrolysis, some people say oil blocks the process, others say it draws out all the oils/greases from the blocks. Anyone can confirm?

Years ago when I discovered how toxic non stick cookware was I switched to cast iron. In the instructions it spoke of the importance of seasoning the pan which consists of applying oil and keeping it oiled up. All you do when you clean it is use hot water a metal scrubbing pad and rub some oil back on and put it away. They don't want you to use any detergents so as not to break down the oils in the pan. Over the years the pan just gets better and I love it. So my cast iron pan absorbs some oil and creates a very nice and slick surface on the top. Now I imagine just like a sponge it may reach a saturation point and not take in any more but the amount of oil it soaks up must be a very small amount. I have never had oil show up on the other side of the pan so I don't think it would leak out the other side.

The other thing is I doubt after 20 odd years or so or how ever old most of these compressors we are playing around with are that there would still be some loose casting debris floating about. There is nothing to nail down because our sides and bottoms are smooth other then the casting bits sticking out here or there.

Imagine this, your are standing in middle of circle in a small pool with six friends around you with buckets. The buckets are full of water and they keep tossing the water on you non stop. Do you think you are going to get more wet if your clothes shed the water faster back into the pool? There is so much water in the pool it does not mater. The same applies to splash lubrication. As long as your oil level is not low there will be plenty of oil going everywhere.

I was thinking about maybe painting over the magnets that I may glue on the bottom but after seeing the price of that special paint I said forget it. I am still going to wait for some feedback on the magnet idea. The only downside I can see is if it broke loose it could cause some havoc.

 

[jonathan75]

Before I go through the trouble of sanding and painting the tank I figured I should test it to see if it holds air. Can I fill the tank with a pancake or would the pancake burn out before I got anywhere?

 

[EOC_Jason]

1. I wouldn't worry about the magnets. That's why you use non-detergent oil, any metal will naturally settle to the bottom of your pan. Every decade or so you might want to pull the pan and clean all the sludge... A magnet would be overkill for home use.

You might want to read the manual, but usually on a new compressor you change the oil after 10 hours, then 40, then like ever 200... FYI, get an hourmeter they are only like $15....

2. I'm sure you could slowly fill it with a pancake. Maybe just run it in 20 minute spurts and let it cool down before flipping back on?

 

[trbomax]

Your block was machined,it was bored right? Any professional engine builder (race car motors) thats worth a **** does this.You could go to any top fuel,NASCAR or pro stock event and 9 out of 10 of the motors will be glyptoled.Mine were blown alcohol and blown gas. They were pulled down and "rebuilt" on an average of every 4 weeks.They were changed out every 2 weeks (I had 3)The insides were so clean and dry that we would never touch them,because most of the dirt and foriegn stuff that contributes to bearing failure is lint,yeah lint, from shop towels,or dirt that falls off of the mechanics body.Try to wipe lint off of an unpainted cast iron surface once.So the painting does serve an important role.My thoughts and policys were always to make it work and run first,make it pretty later.Always worked for me.

 

[jonathan75]

1. I wouldn't worry about the magnets. That's why you use non-detergent oil, any metal will naturally settle to the bottom of your pan. Every decade or so you might want to pull the pan and clean all the sludge... A magnet would be overkill for home use.

You might want to read the manual, but usually on a new compressor you change the oil after 10 hours, then 40, then like ever 200... FYI, get an hourmeter they are only like $15....

2. I'm sure you could slowly fill it with a pancake. Maybe just run it in 20 minute spurts and let it cool down before flipping back on?

I noticed when I first took the pump apart there were a lot of fine metal partials. Well that and big clumps of broken rod. There were a lot settled on the bottom but I figured when the pump is running it may splash those bits back up in the cylinders. If the magnet holds those metal particles down my thought is it may help reduce wear.

Yes, I was looking at hour meters. I want a analog so I know I can't loose the reading if it fails.

I will read the manual on my pancake and let it cycle on and off and listen for leaking while it is cooling down.

 

[Burgerkong]

I noticed when I first took the pump apart there were a lot of fine metal partials. Well that and big clumps of broken rod. There were a lot settled on the bottom but I figured when the pump is running it may splash those bits back up in the cylinders. If the magnet holds those metal particles down my thought is it may help reduce wear.

Yes, I was looking at hour meters. I want a analog so I know I can't loose the reading if it fails.

I will read the manual on my pancake and let it cycle on and off and listen for leaking while it is cooling down.

I'd think that drilling and tapping a hole in the case for a plug that's the size of your magnet is more convenient. That way you only need to unscrew the plug and you can clean out all the shavings instead of having to stick your hand and contort.

 

[jonathan75]

Your block was machined,it was bored right? Any professional engine builder (race car motors) thats worth a **** does this.You could go to any top fuel,NASCAR or pro stock event and 9 out of 10 of the motors will be glyptoled.Mine were blown alcohol and blown gas. They were pulled down and "rebuilt" on an average of every 4 weeks.They were changed out every 2 weeks (I had 3)The insides were so clean and dry that we would never touch them,because most of the dirt and foriegn stuff that contributes to bearing failure is lint,yeah lint, from shop towels,or dirt that falls off of the mechanics body.Try to wipe lint off of an unpainted cast iron surface once.So the painting does serve an important role.My thoughts and policys were always to make it work and run first,make it pretty later.Always worked for me.

Yes, I noticed that you can't wipe the insides down very well without leaving parts of rag behind. The machine shop flushed it out good for me so there is nothing much there now. Before final assembly I will use a tack cloth to get anything sticking around. Since I don't have to rebuild the pump once every four weeks I will just be careful not to leave anything behind and it will run for 17 years or more just like it did the first 17 years before it failed due to lack of maintenance. If it was abused and lasted 17 years I am sure it will last even longer with me maintaining it regularly.

 

[jonathan75]

I'd think that drilling and tapping a hole in the case for a plug that's the size of your magnet is more convenient. That way you only need to unscrew the plug and you can clean out all the shavings instead of having to stick your hand and contort.

That is a good idea. I know they have oil drain plugs with magnets on the end of them. The only issue is that I don't want to alter external physical appearance or change the looks of the pump. I am going to experiment with a external magnet on the bottom and see if it penetrates to the inside. If it does I can simply remove the magnet and drain the oil and put the magnet back.

 

[TwoInch]

Your block was machined,it was bored right? Any professional engine builder (race car motors) thats worth a **** does this.You could go to any top fuel,NASCAR or pro stock event and 9 out of 10 of the motors will be glyptoled.Mine were blown alcohol and blown gas. They were pulled down and "rebuilt" on an average of every 4 weeks.They were changed out every 2 weeks (I had 3)The insides were so clean and dry that we would never touch them,because most of the dirt and foriegn stuff that contributes to bearing failure is lint,yeah lint, from shop towels,or dirt that falls off of the mechanics body.Try to wipe lint off of an unpainted cast iron surface once.So the painting does serve an important role.My thoughts and policys were always to make it work and run first,make it pretty later.Always worked for me.

comparing race engines making 1000+++ HP and a lowly compressor pump, in regards to oil flow and failure modes is a bit stretched, wouldnt ya say?

there is absolutely zero need to glyptol the inside of a splash lube compressor pump. it just aint so.

 

[Zrexxer]

there is absolutely zero need to glyptol the inside of a splash lube compressor pump. it just aint so.

Agree 100%. That would be a major loss of focus for no tangible benefit.

 

[trbomax]

Agree 100%. That would be a major loss of focus for no tangible benefit.

How is that any different than wet sanding primer on the outside? If your going over the top with a project,might as well go all the way!

 

[jonathan75]

How is that any different than wet sanding primer on the outside? If your going over the top with a project,might as well go all the way!

I replace a rod because it is broken, and I paint the outside because it is scratched and faded. Those are real benifits that make a difference in operation or makes it more visibly appealing. Painting the inside provides little benefit to me. I would rather spend the $50 on some other upgrade.

 

[trbomax]

OK,forget the glyptol.I was just making conversation anyway. How about polished stainless bolts and nuts ? And chrome the valve caps? Now that would make a show compressor!

 

[jonathan75]

OK,forget the glyptol.I was just making conversation anyway. How about polished stainless bolts and nuts ? And chrome the valve caps? Now that would make a show compressor!

My goal is to keep it as stock as possible. More or less factory fresh but with a slighty better paint job using factory paint.

 

[trbomax]

OK,I guess nobody has a sense of humor about stuff anymore. I'll shut up.

 

[jonathan75]

OK,I guess nobody has a sense of humor about stuff anymore. I'll shut up.

I thought you were serious. It is hard to tell in text and not voice.

 

[Burgerkong]

Lol.

 

[trbomax]

I thought you were serious.

I know,thats what makes it more fun (for me anyway)

 

[jonathan75]

I decided to paint the tank myself so I got the remaining paint put in cans today. With the rest of the paint left I could only get 18 cans and one of those cans I think is empty so that means 17 full cans. Not sure why they charged me for a empty can. It does not help that Saylor Beall only gave me 3/4 of a gallon and not a full gallon. If I have enough for the rest of the pump and the tank I will be shocked.

 

[jonathan75]

Before I put the pump back together I wanted to make sure my old Craftsman DigiTork Torque Wrench was still accurate. After purchasing it new over 17 years ago I figured I should double check it. So I picked up the Harbor Freight Tools Digital Torque Adapter to test it. I had a pleasant surprise. Here is my short video review and test.

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[TwoInch]

I decided to paint the tank myself so I got the remaining paint put in cans today. With the rest of the paint left I could only get 18 cans and one of those cans I think is empty so that means 17 full cans. Not sure why they charged me for a empty can. It does not help that Saylor Beall only gave me 3/4 of a gallon and not a full gallon. If I have enough for the rest of the pump and the tank I will be shocked.

good deal! will be much more rewarding that way. i cant imagine you will run out of paint, unless those cans contain much less than commercial cans.

when is tank spray happening?

 

[TwoInch]

here is a video worth watching. now that you are getting into the part that will require an actual decent finish.

he is doing a base/clear, so not all of it is applicable, but all the prep is spot on, even does a dent/scratch fill. the primer and color he uses are almost the same, so its hard to see the spray pattern as he sprays, which is the only thing i dont like about the video. but its worth a watch.

there are other videos out there that are worth watching. try to find a knowledgeable seeming video doing a single stage paint/no clear. so you can see the spray pattern that you need to look for when attempting to get a decent finish on a large surface such as your tank.

get a can or two of regular rustoleum in blue or green color, and spray something with it, even a couple 5 gallon buckets will work. just to get the motions and overlap down pat before moving to the tank with real paint.

 

[jonathan75]

good deal! will be much more rewarding that way. i cant imagine you will run out of paint, unless those cans contain much less than commercial cans.

when is tank spray happening?

I did some math and I won't be able to do four coats on the tank like I did on the pump parts. And I am not finished with the pump yet. I may put a coat less on the back side of the tank so I can have more for the front. There are only 4oz of paint in each can and the rest is 7.5 oz of propellent and solvent. So in a sense it is diluted.

For the tank I will need to find some eye bolts that I can attach to the top of the tank and lift it so I can get the bottom. After one weld already broke on my HF engine hoist it will make me nervous. The weld was for the lever holder but still is part of the unit.

I am going to be working on the pump more today so it will be a while before I can start the tank prep. Thanks for the video link and tips. It will really help me since it is my first time.

 

[TwoInch]

what type of paint is the SB stuff you got? im looking through pages trying to find it.

 

[jonathan75]

what type of paint is the SB stuff you got? im looking through pages trying to find it.

They just say enamel paint and dont elaborate more than that.

 

[jonathan75]

I finished the prep work for the exhaust and the left jug. I say jug so I sound cool like the machine shop. I didn't want to paint the pressure valve so I polished it up. And the exhaust connection is too ugly to polish so I roughed it up for painting.

On the left jug there is some flash rust that I am having problems getting to with the Dremel wire wheel. It just won't go that deep. And the folded sandpaper only touches the surface and not the valleys. Can I prime over this minor rust or will I need to do something about it?

 

[jonathan75]

It took a lot of manual picking to get the loose paint flakes off. Some parts of the paint that I picked off had some rust under it. I don't want any loose bits around when I put fresh primer and paint on.

 

[Burgerkong]

I think you should've had it blasted heh. Would have taken care of the rust and old paint.

 

[jonathan75]

I think you should've had it blasted heh. Would have taken care of the rust and old paint.

It is okay I guess. It is actually a little bit therapeutic. Just sit in the garage where it is nice and quiet and manually scrape away. Clears your mind.

 

[CNGsaves]

Looking great . . . as we knew it would !!

You'll be bona fide expert on every nook and cranny of that compressor.

Once the old girl is up and running, will your next step involve burying airline systems to neighbor's garages for the community payback??

 

[EOC_Jason]

It is okay I guess. It is actually a little bit therapeutic. Just sit in the garage where it is nice and quiet and manually scrape away. Clears your mind.

You haven't made your kid cry any more wanting daddy to come out of the garage and leave the air compressor alone? LOL... That video gave me a good chuckle...

 

[TwoInch]

yes, you can primer right over the minor flash rust. you will have no problems whatsoever

 

[jonathan75]

Looking great . . . as we knew it would !!
You'll be bona fide expert on every nook and cranny of that compressor.
Once the old girl is up and running, will your next step involve burying airline systems to neighbor's garages for the community payback??

Your right about that. I know every part, where it goes, what it does and how heavy it is.

Community payback? I may not go as far as burying airlines. I got help with deliver but no service after the sale. Except one neighbor got me a new schrader valve and helpful tips. I may tear up the street for him.

You haven't made your kid cry any more wanting daddy to come out of the garage and leave the air compressor alone? LOL... That video gave me a good chuckle...

Oh yeah that video. I put up some videos of my Son for the Grandparents. He does not like me working in the garage so much. He will open the door give me a sad face and start to cry. He keeps asking me to come in the house and play with him or go to sleep. Actually that his him in my Avatar. It is a picture of him at his first car show. He stuck his head out the window of a car he was testing and started to quote Shakespeare. Smart kid, takes after Mommy.

 

[jonathan75]

yes, you can primer right over the minor flash rust. you will have no problems whatsoever

Thank you! Great news! It flash rusted after the machine shop cleaning but it is hard to get to every bit of it in those fins.

 

[jonathan75]

After getting tired of baking under a 100 watt heater in a 90 degree garage I swapped out my light bulb for a LED bulb. It actually looks better and runs so much cooler. Comes with a nice heat sink as well. After I put the new bulb in my adjustable arm came crashing down. So I had to tighten every nut on the thing to keep it from falling under the weight of that very heavy bulb.

I started on the right jug yesterday but didn't finish. My wire wheel started to look Charlie Brown's head and the garage was getting way too hot.

 

[jonathan75]

I got the right jug ready for painting. This time I cleaned it with a new cleaner from the auto paint store. One of the guys behind the counter freaked out when he found out I was prepping the surface with mineral spirits. He kept going on about fish eyes and how mineral spirits is not compatible with enamel paint. Then he started in about the fish eyes again. I have no idea what the fish eyes is about but it sounds very scary so I asked him for the right cleaner.