Todd.Brock
Well-known member
We are all rooting for Jonathan 75. We were all teased with a OCD level 5 install last year of a minisplit in the garage. Hope all is well and will be the year it gets up and running!
Saylor-Beall Rebuild
- Thread starter jonathan75
- Start date
thieltech
Well-known member
2013 . i hope its done this year. maybe its done now and he just hasnt posted
thieltech
Well-known member
shifterkart
Member
I wondered what ever happened to the rebuild. I'd like to know how it ended, was it finished, was it not finished? what does it look like now. its like reading a nice book to find that the last few pages were torn out of it!
dkroth
Well-known member
Bumpus.
Last edited:
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
I just spent the last two days getting the project started back up. It was buried literally. The original project table with the parts that needed to be prepped for painting was covered under a ton of junk that slowly piled up. I transferred the work to a smaller portable cart. I couldn't find a lot of bolts and realized I accidentally left them soaking in the Chem-Dip! It goes without saying that the bolts were VERY clean as you can see in the pictures. Hopefully they didn't compromise the integrity of the metal being soaked for so long. What is on the cart is the last of the motor parts that need to be cleaned up to paint.
Attachments
WallynSC
Well-known member
Good to see you back in the game.
JCQuick
Well-known member
great job sorry I couldn't help
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
I took the bolts out of the Chem-Dip this morning and it was not very clean. I am not sure if it will loose effectiveness as it sits or not. So I purchased a new can today.
I also made a poor mans ultrasonic cleaner by mounting a sander on top of it to experiment using the old can. It gets very warm even with a heat sink under the sander so I only let it run for a hour. Tomorrow I will see if the parts look any better.
I am also experimenting with a rock tumbler with baking soda. Anyone have any recommendations to put in the rock tumbler that may work better then baking soda? I can't wait to have a blast booth when the air compressor is done!
I also made a poor mans ultrasonic cleaner by mounting a sander on top of it to experiment using the old can. It gets very warm even with a heat sink under the sander so I only let it run for a hour. Tomorrow I will see if the parts look any better.
I am also experimenting with a rock tumbler with baking soda. Anyone have any recommendations to put in the rock tumbler that may work better then baking soda? I can't wait to have a blast booth when the air compressor is done!
Attachments
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
So today I went ahead and purchased a Vibratory Tumbler Bowl from Harbor Freight. Honestly I never knew these existed until yesterday. The baking soda in the rock polisher did nothing as you can see from the first picture. So I added about 6 pounds of media in the tumbler and a cup of Chem-Dip and let it shake for over two hours. The results were very good on the outside but on the inside edge of one of the pieces did not look as good. So back in it went and it is running in the garage as we speak. After everything is done I will do a final polish with the crushed walnut shell to see how it looks.
One other update I would like to add is the new Chem-Dip can works much better. The bolts looked cleaner after the first dip compared to the first overnight dip using the old can. The paint on the bolt heads even started to come off. When I removed the lid it made a pop sound where as the old can does not. So it appears that Chem-Dip does loose effectiveness with age and use contamination.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lbs-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-media-93832.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
One other update I would like to add is the new Chem-Dip can works much better. The bolts looked cleaner after the first dip compared to the first overnight dip using the old can. The paint on the bolt heads even started to come off. When I removed the lid it made a pop sound where as the old can does not. So it appears that Chem-Dip does loose effectiveness with age and use contamination.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lbs-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-media-93832.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
Attachments
Last edited:
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Wow, I think I need to invest in the tumbler, instead of wasting time brushing or soaking or picking things out of threads etc!
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
I am still giving it a pre soak in Chem-Dip before tumbling. I figure the cleaner before the better. But you are correct about wasting time. Life is too short to spend hours hand cleaning small parts. This tumbler works great!
chrispyny
Well-known member
Go to the store and buy a gallon of muriatic acid used to etch concrete floors. It's technically hydrochloric acid renamed to make it more consumer friendly.
Wear personal protective gear, goggles and gloves. Take the acid and which is typically only 18% acid and 82% water (still VERY VERY STRONG) and make a mix of 2 parts water to one part acid. Always add acid to water, never water to acid. Dunk your metal parts in the bath for 30 minutes to an hour. Pull them out and enjoy sparkling clean parts courtesy of hydrochloric acid. Zero effort other than taking personal care and safety.
People freak when they hear ACID! OMG HYDROCHLORIC Acid!
Yea so. It's rebagged muratic acid, its the same solution you put in your pool to lower the ph. It's a VERY common chemical. Just use common sense.
I use it all the time. It's effortless and great on parts with nooks and crannies which my sand blaster will likely destroy. I coulda saved you a ton of time and money on crappy harborfreight stuff. Sorry i i'm late to the game.
Good luck
Forgot to say, when done, dunk parts in baking soda solution to neutralize acid. And once done with solution, store in a sealed plastic container to use again, or VERY SLOWLY add common baking soda to the acid u til it stops foaming and pour it down the drain or out in a ditch on your property.
Wear personal protective gear, goggles and gloves. Take the acid and which is typically only 18% acid and 82% water (still VERY VERY STRONG) and make a mix of 2 parts water to one part acid. Always add acid to water, never water to acid. Dunk your metal parts in the bath for 30 minutes to an hour. Pull them out and enjoy sparkling clean parts courtesy of hydrochloric acid. Zero effort other than taking personal care and safety.
People freak when they hear ACID! OMG HYDROCHLORIC Acid!
Yea so. It's rebagged muratic acid, its the same solution you put in your pool to lower the ph. It's a VERY common chemical. Just use common sense.
I use it all the time. It's effortless and great on parts with nooks and crannies which my sand blaster will likely destroy. I coulda saved you a ton of time and money on crappy harborfreight stuff. Sorry i i'm late to the game.
Good luck
Forgot to say, when done, dunk parts in baking soda solution to neutralize acid. And once done with solution, store in a sealed plastic container to use again, or VERY SLOWLY add common baking soda to the acid u til it stops foaming and pour it down the drain or out in a ditch on your property.
Last edited:
mattblast
Well-known member
Never add water to acid. It will cause a violent reaction and can splash the acid. Always add the acid to the water.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Thanks for the tip. I may try this on the bigger parts I can't tumble. But I am interested in knowing why you think the Harbor Freight tumbler is crappy? The reviews were mostly very positive and my results meet or exceed my expectations. Unless the unit fails for some reason I don't see anything wrong with the Harbor Freight Tumbler. Actually I think there is a Pass and Fail thread on here, I wonder if this Tumbler is listed? I would give it a pass rating.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Here are the result pictures after a overnight tumble. Seems to have a slurry now. I may of added too much Chem-Dip. 
The results look great and just added a new load to run overnight. Check out the before and after sample using a part I didn't run yet! I put it next to the clean one so you can see what it looked like before.
The results look great and just added a new load to run overnight. Check out the before and after sample using a part I didn't run yet! I put it next to the clean one so you can see what it looked like before.
Attachments
PCMusicGuy
Well-known member
Did you end up with the 5 lb or 18 lb tumbler? That rust removal media sure seems to work.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
I got the 18lb. I didn't want to regret later and end up with two. I hardly have enough room in my garage for many specialty tools. But I am really happy with it. Not very loud either.
Burgerkong
Well-known member
For shits and giggles, I browsed my local classifieds and found this:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/o...er/1074759719?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
May have to get myself that!
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/o...er/1074759719?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
May have to get myself that!
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Not a bad deal considering it comes with the crushed walnut if it was only used a few times. All the dust you see is probably from the walnut dust.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
This morning when I checked on the tumbler it was making more of a thumping sound. When I opened it up all the media was clumped together so nothing was moving much, because it was a solid mass stuck together by media dust bonded by the liquid. A flow though water system would prevent this I think. I added way too much Chem-Dip also. It did prevent the dust but created a slurry of muck which lost effectiveness.
It seems like a waste to toss it in the trash as recommended, so I drained the chemical, did a quick rinse into a bucket so I can dispose of the chemical properly, then started to filter and rinse the media over and over again until all the dust was rinsed off. After that I spread the media out over mats, in a thin layer to dry in the sun.
One more thing is after I added water for the first rinse it loosened the parts from the muck, so I could pick them up with a magnet. I have a screen over a bucket which helps filter everything out.
You can see in one of the pictures a comparison of new media vs used. It will loose the sharp corners, but I feel it still may work. So the next batch will be with used media that is rinsed and dried.
It seems like a waste to toss it in the trash as recommended, so I drained the chemical, did a quick rinse into a bucket so I can dispose of the chemical properly, then started to filter and rinse the media over and over again until all the dust was rinsed off. After that I spread the media out over mats, in a thin layer to dry in the sun.
One more thing is after I added water for the first rinse it loosened the parts from the muck, so I could pick them up with a magnet. I have a screen over a bucket which helps filter everything out.
You can see in one of the pictures a comparison of new media vs used. It will loose the sharp corners, but I feel it still may work. So the next batch will be with used media that is rinsed and dried.
Attachments
Last edited:
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
This time I ran the media dry. It still worked good! So it looks like you can wash and reuse.
As you can see in the last picture I still have more to run.
As you can see in the last picture I still have more to run.
Attachments
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Glad to see you back at it. Welcome back! Did your travel schedule finally ease up?
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
It did a little bit but of course once I get started again now I have to fly out on Monday and work out west next week. Then the following week I will fly out Wednesday.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Here are pictures of another batch I just loaded. These are only before pictures, the after pictures I will post when I get back in town.
Today I washed the media and let it dry again before starting the new batch. The dust was building up too much and getting stuck in the threads.
After I get back I need to figure out how I am going to resurface the valve surfaces. I am cleaning the valves together but I need to break them down to soak, clean and refinish the mating surfaces of the valve. It is a flat washer like disk that pushes up with a spring to the vented side of the valve. The reason I tumbled the valves in one piece was so I don't mix up the parts and don't damage the valve disk and spring inside. They will each get a separate soak in pieces broken down one at a time.
I am open to suggestions on valve surfacing. I added a picture of the valve parts diagram.
Today I washed the media and let it dry again before starting the new batch. The dust was building up too much and getting stuck in the threads.
After I get back I need to figure out how I am going to resurface the valve surfaces. I am cleaning the valves together but I need to break them down to soak, clean and refinish the mating surfaces of the valve. It is a flat washer like disk that pushes up with a spring to the vented side of the valve. The reason I tumbled the valves in one piece was so I don't mix up the parts and don't damage the valve disk and spring inside. They will each get a separate soak in pieces broken down one at a time.
I am open to suggestions on valve surfacing. I added a picture of the valve parts diagram.
Attachments
Last edited:
Burgerkong
Well-known member
I wished I had picked up that tumbler when I recently landed myself a huge compressor just like your S-B. Removed the head today, I found that using wedges ala flat chisels work a lot better than beating with a BFH, because I did the beating, then tried the chisel. As long as you're tapping lightly it won't scored or damage the head and works GREAT.
I won't be taking the valves apart on mine as they're pretty clean compared to yours, seems like my 58 year old Kellogg has led a sheltered life haha. Will be dipping in the solvent tank. Next will be getting the unloader and cylinders off and degreasing EVERYTHING. There's so much oil and grease that I am wearing gloves to mess around with the compressor - I am SICK of cleaning my hands every time I mistakenly grab onto a component only to find out it was CAKED with grease.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301019
I won't be taking the valves apart on mine as they're pretty clean compared to yours, seems like my 58 year old Kellogg has led a sheltered life haha. Will be dipping in the solvent tank. Next will be getting the unloader and cylinders off and degreasing EVERYTHING. There's so much oil and grease that I am wearing gloves to mess around with the compressor - I am SICK of cleaning my hands every time I mistakenly grab onto a component only to find out it was CAKED with grease.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301019
golferguy
Active member
I joined this forum in order to see the pics since I've just acquired a 705 SB and I wish I had your no rush attitude. Mine has a 13 horse honda motor and I'm working on it.Got the whole deal for 375 and have been told it's worth 2200.
Keep posting and I wouldn't worry about that crank even though it is the only piece that doesn't look brand new so far.
Keep posting and I wouldn't worry about that crank even though it is the only piece that doesn't look brand new so far.
racer-john
Well-known member
I would be interested in the method to allow the motor to idle when full pressure is realized. I have to run my shop from a generator which will not allow me to use the original electric motor , and am running a 13HP gas engine from P.R.
Either post here or P.M. me. Thanks
Either post here or P.M. me. Thanks
redmondjp
Well-known member
My brother had a gas-powered compressor that had this feature; the air pressure controller was all-pneumatic, controlling 1) a small air-activated cylinder that increased the engine throttle from idle to its running speed, and 2) a bleed-off valve that dumped the compressor's discharge to atmosphere (upstream of the check valve, of course) until the tank pressure dropped low enough.
racer-john
Well-known member
Thanks for the response. Would you be able to get a diagram (with part numbers) for his installation?
What HP motor does he have and the required HP for the pump?
Mine had a 5HP farm electric motor previously, now a 13HP gas motor that will not turn the compressor. I rigged up a lever system to remove tension on the belts until the motor is running. Then I engage the belts. I may have to rig up an air cylinder to take carne of this last part. Itm will have to be integrated into the former cylinder schematic.
What HP motor does he have and the required HP for the pump?
Mine had a 5HP farm electric motor previously, now a 13HP gas motor that will not turn the compressor. I rigged up a lever system to remove tension on the belts until the motor is running. Then I engage the belts. I may have to rig up an air cylinder to take carne of this last part. Itm will have to be integrated into the former cylinder schematic.
redmondjp
Well-known member
I don't have a diagram - it was on an old compressor (no name brand or it had either worn off or been painted over) that had an IMC T39 pump on it. It had a 12HP gas engine that has successfully been replaced with a 5HP Baldor electric motor.
Does that compressor have a manual unloader valve on it? A lot of the gas-powered ones did - it looks like a toggle lever that you flip up to keep the pressure released until the engine is up to speed.
Does that compressor have a manual unloader valve on it? A lot of the gas-powered ones did - it looks like a toggle lever that you flip up to keep the pressure released until the engine is up to speed.
golferguy
Active member
To racer John, I wish mine with the 13hp honda engine would have that control mechanism. I've seen them on the small 2 tank gas powered portable compressors like you see running nail guns. Maybe find a builders supply that sells and repairs those, I know they can rig it up.
redmondjp
Well-known member
OK, for an update, I found this website where they sell all of the controls we have been talking about, including this throttle control for the gas engine:
http://www.cdivalve.com/products/valves/air-compressor-valves/throttle-controls
Check out their other unloaders such as the constant-run load-genie as well, they have a lot of good stuff.
golferguy
Active member
Hey thanks Redmondjp, also on the Saylor Beall website they have one with the honda engine running the compressor with auto on/off.
redmondjp
Well-known member
The only thing that I don't know is if Control Devices sells retail or if they are OEM only. You can always call them and ask for the technical support or technical sales department. You want to get to hopefully a friendly engineer that can tell you part numbers, and/or where to buy their products from if they are OEM only.
Otherwise as stated above, find a compressor that has the controls that you want, and then get a parts manual for that model. Then google the part numbers after that to find the lowest price.
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Ok - Time for the one year check in!! Did you get this finished??
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
2017 is going to be the year... I can feel it! 
Bandit
Member
I wish I had checked in sooner as I have worked on Saylor-Beall's both for a service center and being a service center since 1985 .
But taking care of 96 & 98 yr old parents in Boston while retiring too , and moving to Portsmouth , Va. have kept me pretty busy .
I still have a lot of S/B parts , but they are in a locker in Boston .
As for surfacing the valve face , I just used a piece of " Plate Glass " and emery cloth , finishing up with " crocus cloth "
Bob
Ps
As to unloaders , just google
" Constant Run Unloaders "
R. Conrader Company is the Best One ( and most $$$$ )
But taking care of 96 & 98 yr old parents in Boston while retiring too , and moving to Portsmouth , Va. have kept me pretty busy .
I still have a lot of S/B parts , but they are in a locker in Boston .
As for surfacing the valve face , I just used a piece of " Plate Glass " and emery cloth , finishing up with " crocus cloth "
Bob
Ps
As to unloaders , just google
" Constant Run Unloaders "
R. Conrader Company is the Best One ( and most $$$$ )