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School me on crimpers

Tynee

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Sep 19, 2016
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In the Heart of the Bluegrass
I'd like to replace crimpers. I've got a pair that are very similar to these:

spin_prod_222855001


They've worked ok for me for a couple of decades, but I get frustrated with the crimper being on the back side of the tool. It would make so much more sense to me if the stripper were on the handle end, and the crimper were on the lever end. When I'm crimping a **** splice in a bundle of wires, I have to let go of one side of the handle, slip that in between the wires around my **** splice, get my hand back around the loose handle, then crimp...all while not letting the wire slip out of the end of the **** splice.

I'm looking for American Made if I can get them. I wouldn't mind replacing these with a pair of wire strippers and a separate pair of crimpers, if I need to. I like having the screw cutter available to me as well, so bonus points awarded if there's a single tool out there that does all 3 jobs better than what I've got.

Any suggestions or tools anybody would recommend?
 
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rlitman

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Personally, I have not had any luck with that style crimper at all. They're good as a wire stripper, and as a machine screw cutter, but you cannot get anywhere near the force required to do a proper crimp with them.

I crimp my insulated connections with Klein 1005 crimpers. I've recently bought a set of Thomas & Betts WT-111M crimpers for non-insulated connections.
 

californiaHank

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Nov 20, 2015
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You've posted a picture of my most-hated tool - it's hard to use and you never know if you've got the connector properly aligned with a crimp of the right depth.

A proper ratchet-type crimper that uses dies instead of stamped parts costs a lot more but pays for itself in peace-of-mind alone.
It makes perfect crimps every time and you won't have sore hands at the end of the day.

I've had a Greenlee tool like this one for many years -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042T940C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You might have trouble finding a US-made tool at a reasonable price. The Greenlee is now made in Taiwan. Similar tools from from Klein and Ideal are also Taiwanese. Most of the US made ratchet-type crimpers I've seen are really expensive, heavy-duty tools for industrial or production-line use.
 
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Brownsfan

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Cleveland Ohio
The big problem with multi tools like above is they don't do any of the functions well. Like Jeff I have a bit of a crimp and strip tool addiction. Mainly because it's the most used tools in my box. I prefer Klein and Thomas and Betts pliers style crimpers. I also like the Ideal 30-429. Those are my top 3.
 

maxpower_hd

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Apr 17, 2015
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Massachusetts
I use the Klein 1005 too. The issue for me with the ratcheting type like Hank showed is that they don't fit well into tight or confined spaces. I have borrowed another pair similar to the Kleins that are bent. I like those even better and will probably get a pair for those hard to reach areas. These are them.

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...fTCCxE4MOb2nKG31giOupu3p2veVRuYF9JxoChlnw_wcB

For strippers I have Klein 11053.

I haven't found a multi tool that does both well yet.
 

pi_guy

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I have multiple crimpers, there is no one that functions for everything. Even then you find different manufactures recommend different tools for there connectors. Plus not all similar looking connectors are the same size.
And using that type of wire stripper guarantees damage to the wire even before you do the crimp.
 

Krokodil

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I second the Thomas & Betts plier as recommended. US made and excellent quality manual crimper for non-insulated connectors.
 

pi_guy

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The BEST information you will ever want on crimpers, yes they are mandatory for marine wiring and connectors, but my good friend - Maine Sail tells you why and discusses the tools to get the best work done.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

my point quoted by him

The difference with aviation terminals is that they need to meet minimum standards and be crimped with "certified" tools all of which are FAR MORE EXPENSIVE than the average boater is willing to buy. I personally & professionally use aviation certified tools but the ones below will get you you to better than average...
 

rlitman

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The BEST information you will ever want on crimpers, yes they are mandatory for marine wiring and connectors, but my good friend - Maine Sail tells you why and discusses the tools to get the best work done.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

Funny you mention that. I was just reading that site the other day.
He's pretty spot on, but with a couple of caveats. His advice is ONLY applicable to insulated crimps. Insulated crimps can work (and they do for me 90% of the time), but they're a little trickier to get right, as you've got to be able to plastically deform the copper wire inside (to get a good crimp) without piercing the insulation. I've currently got some connections where I'm a little concerned about this, and I'm using non-insulated crimps for a greater margin of safety.

In any case, the important thing about a crimp is that it must have enough strength to deform the round strands into a cross section with no voids, and that takes enormous pressures. Not something you can achieve with a stamped steel crimper on anything but the finest of wires. For pliers style crimpers, it's got to be a forged tool. Otherwise, it has to either have compound leverage, or be hydraulic.

I suggest you do a google image search for "good crimp cross section".
 

ttpete

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Mar 8, 2011
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Dearborn, MI
Funny you mention that. I was just reading that site the other day.
He's pretty spot on, but with a couple of caveats. His advice is ONLY applicable to insulated crimps. Insulated crimps can work (and they do for me 90% of the time), but they're a little trickier to get right, as you've got to be able to plastically deform the copper wire inside (to get a good crimp) without piercing the insulation. I've currently got some connections where I'm a little concerned about this, and I'm using non-insulated crimps for a greater margin of safety.

In any case, the important thing about a crimp is that it must have enough strength to deform the round strands into a cross section with no voids, and that takes enormous pressures. Not something you can achieve with a stamped steel crimper on anything but the finest of wires. For pliers style crimpers, it's got to be a forged tool. Otherwise, it has to either have compound leverage, or be hydraulic.

I suggest you do a google image search for "good crimp cross section".

I dislike the red/blue/yellow "insulated" terminals because they require a squeeze crimp that is less secure than using an uninsulated terminal with an indented crimp. If something needs insulation, I do it with shrink tubing.

I have a drawer full of different crimp tools, most of which are ratcheting type.
 

jdlong

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Oct 2, 2016
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Kaukauna Wisconsin
You've posted a picture of my most-hated tool - it's hard to use and you never know if you've got the connector properly aligned with a crimp of the right depth.

I've had a Greenlee tool like this one for many years -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042T940C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The link you post nails it for an all around affordable crimper. There are look-alikes such as Gardner Bender that work almost just as well. The ratcheting variety is far superior the plier variety. They are like going from a bar type tube flaring tool to Mastercool.
 
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pstemari

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Jan 7, 2012
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Seattle
Yeah, the Greenlee/Paladin ratcheting crimpers are worth every penny. I sprung for a second frame because I was changing between the ferrule and the "professional" dies too often.

I use the CrimpALL Series PA8000, eg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VH1OVG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

As far as insulated terminals go, get good quality nylon ones and use a proper die and you'll be happy. I mostly use Molex's Avikrimp from Digikey, but Panduit is also good. Buy them at Digikey or AWD; Amazon's normal price is vastly inflated.

The Avikrimp will hold even on solid wire well past 50-75 lb pull when properly crimped with a ratcheting die tool.


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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JUNK-MAN

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PA
I like my old blue point pair, they work pretty well for the little electrical work I do.
 

lilcraigford

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Oct 19, 2014
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Portland, ME
The BEST information you will ever want on crimpers, yes they are mandatory for marine wiring and connectors, but my good friend - Maine Sail tells you why and discusses the tools to get the best work done.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

That article convinced me to invest in a ratcheting crimper. However, I have re-read it numerous times and never noticed he is in Maine! Anyway, that site is an excellent resource. I've found these articles useful as well:

- Making Your Own Battery Cables
- Terminating Small Wires

Getting back to the OP, the following crimping pliers (and I see a few have already been mentioned) seem to be the go-to items for GJ members:

- Channellock 909
- Ideal 30-429
- Klein 1005
- Thomas & Betts/Sta Kon WT111M

Here are some other USA made crimping pliers:

- Blue Point 29CP
- Mac TCT112P
- Matco TCT22A
- Snap On 29CF
- SK 15011

And imported pliers of similar style:

- Greenlee KP1022D (Taiwan)
- Irwin 2078310 (Taiwan)
- GB GS-388 (China)
- Neiko 02013A (Taiwan)
- Burndy Y10D (Mexico)

When I have a chance I'll come back with info on ratcheting crimp tools.
 
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Sine Swept

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Feb 2, 2014
Messages
440
I use 909's to cheat 4 gauge terminals, not the best tool for the job, but in a pinch it will do it.
 

richpa

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Feb 16, 2016
Messages
27
Location
London England
Ratchet crimpers are the best type as you can get a consistent crimp and have adjustment and can be calibrated if required. Also they can hold the crimp if you are trying to fix it in an awkward situation. Most the big electrical tool manufacturers/suppliers make/sell them.
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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Ratchet or otherwise, this style crimp is only for uninsulated terminals and will damage the insulation on insulated terminals. Crimpers for insulated crimp terminals and splices generally have flat or slightly concave jaws on both sides. The insulated ratchet crimpers are often color coded in red, blue and yellow to match the crimp to the barrel size. When crimping uninsulated terminals, make sure the male part is opposite the seam on the barrel.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

PureLeaf

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Jul 25, 2014
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Because Ryan won't let user's control their own posts for editing, deleting, etc
 
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bb_max

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Apr 16, 2015
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central IA
I use the Snap On ones already posted. But I have seen the same ones cheaper at Napa, around $20.

As far as the cheaper crimpers, I always disliked them for the same reasons as already posted, the cutter or crimper was always between the handle. I had a pair of yellow handled Stanley ones with everything in front of the pivot that seemed to make more sense than all the others. Have also seen the same ones branded John Deere, probably from the 70s/80's
 

mrjaw14

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May 22, 2012
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Nashville, TN
The BEST information you will ever want on crimpers, yes they are mandatory for marine wiring and connectors, but my good friend - Maine Sail tells you why and discusses the tools to get the best work done.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

I strongly encourage reading this. I have bought his pro-hst heat shrink crimper as well as his pro-dct double crimp tool in his web store and am extremely satisfied with the quality of the crimps.

Another thing I learned is about the terminals themselves. Good terminals are worth it. I recently had some cheap ones fail and I'm doing it right from here onward.
 

ttpete

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Mar 8, 2011
Messages
6,737
Location
Dearborn, MI
The BEST information you will ever want on crimpers, yes they are mandatory for marine wiring and connectors, but my good friend - Maine Sail tells you why and discusses the tools to get the best work done.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

I'm surprised someone would bring up marine wiring. A friend bought a 32' center console boat made by one of the top companies, has all of the goodies, radar, GPS, sonar. I opened the console access door, and the inside looked like an explosion in a spaghetti factory. For the price, one would expect at least wiring looms laced up and separated for different components and a set of schematic diagrams.
 

BreeStephany

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May 19, 2012
Messages
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Oregon
Depends on your application really...

As an electrician, I loved Klein 1005 crimper / cutters and Klein 2006 compound action crimpers.

Since transitioning over to the aviation world, I have started really liking Ideal's ratcheting Crimpmaster crimpers, AMP Pro ratcheting crimpers for larger terminals and DMC crimpers for molex connector and cannon plugs pins.

I generally prefer to have dedicated crimpers and dedicated cutters / strippers and am not really a fan of the all-in-one type tools that cut, strip and crimp.
 
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mrjaw14

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Nashville, TN
I'm surprised someone would bring up marine wiring. A friend bought a 32' center console boat made by one of the top companies, has all of the goodies, radar, GPS, sonar. I opened the console access door, and the inside looked like an explosion in a spaghetti factory. For the price, one would expect at least wiring looms laced up and separated for different components and a set of schematic diagrams.

My RV came from the factory with really crappy wiring. That's why guys like compass marine are in business... To fix the short cuts and **** the manufacturers do to save a buck. Just has to last through the warranty period.
 

mrjaw14

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Here's my crimp tools, including the two I got from compass marine
 

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littletoes

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