Screw extractors

[FigureItOut]

I've read through a couple threads on this that just left me more confused so I thought I'd ask if anyone can recommend a decent set. Had a chance to buy a Mac set used but there seemed to be a consensus against the spiral type.
I would need them mostly for interior automotive trim, but would like a fairly good sized set for general use. Finally decided to buy some asap as I stripped out a screw on my truck door today. Should have hit it with an impact driver and #3 bit right off the bat but I had a #2 right there in my pocket driver.

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[Shadowdog500]

I hate extractors. Best way I found was to take a small pick and small hammer and to work it out backwards.(an overnight soak in Kroil helps). After that I get out the left handed drills to try to free it. If that don't work I drill the screw out to just under the minor diamater and pull the treads of the bolt out separately.

Anyone can do this if you practice.


For smaller bolts, I use a dental drill, which works fantastic!!

Chris

 

[FigureItOut]

Dental drill, that's interesting. I tried the Speed-Out that you see everywhere. I bought them without actually having an immediate need, so when I got home I drove a couple screws into wood to try them out. They didn't work at the first shot so I spent an hour or so trying to create a situation in which they'd be effective and couldn't do it. Total garbage as far as I'm concerned.
That being said I enjoy seeing others improvised methods. I just had a thought that #4 spanner bit would be pretty foolproof if the screw or head were big enough to get a couple holes in it. Would've worked on my stripped screw today I think.

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[Shadowdog500]

I just re read your post and now I am wondering if yu only stripped out the Philips head portion of the screw. Do you have photos of what you need to remove? So. Everyone here can brainstorm the best way to get it out.

In the future on tough stuff like rusty Phillips head bolts, get the proper sized tip and dip it in a little valve grinding compound before putting it in the hole. This keeps if from jacking back out. Also het a hammer type of impact driver. It looks like a metal screwdriver but you whack it with a hammer. (Most motorcycle shops sell them.) I also have a shake and break type of attachment that goes on an air hammer that vibrates the screw loose. (It pulls rusty rotor screws right out. Here is a shake N break in action. They are also great for removing stuck brake bleeders.

Once the head is stripped the best plan of attack may depend on how bad it is stripped. Post a photo and let us see what you are up against.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[FigureItOut]

I'm not too awfully concerned about the one from today, I found a way to complete my repair. Some pretty interesting methods you mentioned, and I'll try them when I have reason to believe I may have problems BEFORE I attempt a screw. Perhaps there is no one best way, but I'd sure like to know what works best for most.
I see you're averse to dedicated screw extractors, I'm just not there yet. Except of course for that popular set you see everywhere.


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[BMack37]

Dental drill, that's interesting. I tried the Speed-Out that you see everywhere. I bought them without actually having an immediate need, so when I got home I drove a couple screws into wood to try them out. They didn't work at the first shot so I spent an hour or so trying to create a situation in which they'd be effective and couldn't do it. Total garbage as far as I'm concerned.
That being said I enjoy seeing others improvised methods. I just had a thought that #4 spanner bit would be pretty foolproof if the screw or head were big enough to get a couple holes in it. Would've worked on my stripped screw today I think.

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Same here, I returned my Speed-out set because it just didn't work. I recently read a thread on here about the Speed-out and others were having different experiences...but they recommended going really slow. I tried slow and it didn't work but maybe you'll have different results. I just bought a pair of Engineer pliers(Search Vampliers) and I've been happy but still no solution to flush screws.

 

[Ign]

Same here, I returned my Speed-out set because it just didn't work. I recently read a thread on here about the Speed-out and others were having different experiences...but they recommended going really slow. I tried slow and it didn't work but maybe you'll have different results. I just bought a pair of Engineer pliers(Search Vampliers) and I've been happy but still no solution to flush screws.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219514

There's also a link early in that thread for the GrabIt Pro's which are allegedly harder and sharper....I'm leaning that direction.

 

[87slosohc]

I save half worn down dremel cut off wheels for cutting slots in stripped out countersunk/flush mount screws. Also keep a bunch of 1/4" hex torx bits for removing stripped Allen screws. If those aren't an option the lh drill bits come out.

 

[fireguy]

I have problems with small Phillips head sheet metal screws in commercial stoves. The grease gets into the X on the head and after the grease hardens, it is impossible to get out. I have tried dental picks. I have tried chisels to cut the head off and sometimes that works. I cannot use a grinder because that cuts the sheet metal under the head. I have had limited success with a impact wrench, the type you hit with a hammer. But often there is not room to swing a hammer.

Any thoughts? Now I am off to a restaurant where I need to remove a screw that has been in place for at least 10 years.

 

[mark.dziamski]

I work on commercial trucks and always run into stripped heads on interior screws. I use the speed out in my 1/4" hex impact and with some patience it has never failed me

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[Ign]

I have problems with small Phillips head sheet metal screws in commercial stoves. The grease gets into the X on the head and after the grease hardens, it is impossible to get out. I have tried dental picks. I have tried chisels to cut the head off and sometimes that works. I cannot use a grinder because that cuts the sheet metal under the head. I have had limited success with a impact wrench, the type you hit with a hammer. But often there is not room to swing a hammer.

Any thoughts? Now I am off to a restaurant where I need to remove a screw that has been in place for at least 10 years.

These are countersunk, ie flush to the surface? If not, the engineer's pliers may be an option.

Otherwise I'd get a compact drill or right angle drill and LH drill bits.

 

[bonneyman]

Dang that dental drill idea is great!

if I have room I drill out the broken stub as close to the inside teeth diameter as possible. Then, I tap out the individual pieces with a small punch and hammer. Sometimes a extractor works if you remove enough material to relieve the seizing pressure so it can back out.

For really bad cases it's the dremel tool.

 

[Ign]

I ordered the Grab-It Pro's today while it was on my mind. As linked in the other thread, it came to around $24 w shipping. I was walking thru my local TSC the other day and they had the Speed-Outs at $20. Add 8% sales tax and the cost would have been within a couple bucks of what I paid for the Pro's today, which are allegedly better (but that's only what I read here, no firsthand experience).

 

[spongerich]

I've had OK luck with the spiral extractors. You need to drill out the fastener as close to the minor diameter of the thread as you can. Left hand drills are good since sometimes it'll come right out as you drill it. For sturdy stuff that you can bang on, the hand impact wrenches are always what I try first. I was also thinking about picking up some left hand taps, the idea being to drill out and tap for a left hand bolt. Then insert and tighten the bolt to remove the fastener. If there's enough stud sticking out, welding a nut on top works most of the time too.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Good timing on this thread. I'm putting new boards on my deck this weekend and I had a couple screws with stripped heads. Instead of playing with the screw I removed and modified the sleeve on one of my bit holders with a Dremel to drill a plug around the screw. So I can lift the board off and use vise grips to remove the screw. It worked better than I thought it would, because it not only drilled the plug around the screw but it also shreaded the wood around the screw in the process.


Chris

 

[FOCUS.FREAK]

I just recently used my ryobi bolt or screw extractors just the other day. It was on a hub off of a full size international school bus. Previous work was done on it and who ever did the rotors last had to have broken off one of the bolts holding the rotor in place. Mind you there are like 10 bolts. I wanted to try to I drilled it out and heated the area banged the extractor in there and used my milwaukee 3/8 with a sockets on the end and sure enough it came out. Saved me from ordering a whole new hub.

I paid like 9 bucks for the ryobi kit from hd.

 

[BMack37]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219514

There's also a link early in that thread for the GrabIt Pro's which are allegedly harder and sharper....I'm leaning that direction.

Thanks for the link. I was going to search for it but I had realized that I was running late. I forgot about the GrabIt Pro recommendation, I may have to try those out.