bbbarracuda
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2008
- Messages
- 709
Absolutely need to hire good local company that can evaluate and give you an estimate for repair. Folks on the internet are not a good source of info for this type of problem.
If you mean throw dirt over the lid..YES!. Your leachfield is acting like a drywell for the surface water and is prob waterlogged at this point but putting less water in it is a very good and cheap start.So I can't take some sort and throw it over the leach field to make a mound? I dont see how this cost 10k
I have never heard of a building inspector telling a family they have to move out due to a toilet not flush nor a leach field failure. Nor have I heard of environmental fines for any of the above.Again, call the pros. You're dealing with an issue that could result in costly code/environmental violations (including having your residence being ruled as 'uninhabitable').
I have never heard of a building inspector telling a family they have to move out due to a toilet not flush nor a leach field failure. Nor have I heard of environmental fines for any of the above.
I have never heard of a building inspector telling a family they have to move out due to a toilet not flush nor a leach field failure. Nor have I heard of environmental fines for any of the above.
My county has a yearly inspection requirement and a suggested 3 year pump out schedule. The last inspection was $350.Many areas septic inspection is a critical inspection at time of sale. Just like the well……..either spectic or well issue will stop the sale from the county view point or mortgage company’s or both.
My current county requires three year tank pumping and inspection.
The reason ground water contamination. (Your well and the neighbors)
Theres also an end of life mandatory replacement of septics, older than 50 years, at sale it must be replaced.
That three year inspection and pump is $150-$250. You get a reminder in the mail from the county. The septic pumper sends a document to the county.
“Every time a septic tank system is inspected, maintained, or serviced, a report must be submitted electronically to the Marathon County CPZ Department office by the POWTS professional on behalf of the property owner. Reports must be submitted within 30 days of completion. If maintenance is not reported on time, the CPZ Department will send a notice reminding the property owner that the legally required maintenance of the septic tank system is due and that the POWTS code requirements have not been met. Maintenance requirements will not be satisfied (and code violations will be in effect) until Marathon County receives the required completed report from the POWTS professional.”
That's crazy.Many areas septic inspection is a critical inspection at time of sale. Just like the well……..either spectic or well issue will stop the sale from the county view point or mortgage company’s or both.
My current county requires three year tank pumping and inspection.
The reason ground water contamination. (Your well and the neighbors)
Theres also an end of life mandatory replacement of septics, older than 50 years, at sale it must be replaced.
That three year inspection and pump is $150-$250. You get a reminder in the mail from the county. The septic pumper sends a document to the county.
“Every time a septic tank system is inspected, maintained, or serviced, a report must be submitted electronically to the Marathon County CPZ Department office by the POWTS professional on behalf of the property owner. Reports must be submitted within 30 days of completion. If maintenance is not reported on time, the CPZ Department will send a notice reminding the property owner that the legally required maintenance of the septic tank system is due and that the POWTS code requirements have not been met. Maintenance requirements will not be satisfied (and code violations will be in effect) until Marathon County receives the required completed report from the POWTS professional.”
I'm surprised how shallow some tanks are.
Here we normally put them so the top is 4-6 feet below grade.
They are pumped out through a 4" PVC riser.
Water lines are 10ft here.Those guys with shallow tank like the OP………are in no frost zones.
The new standard here is 5’ deep for tanks and lines with foam board on top before back fill.
Same for water well lines to the home.
Theres no news when the place isnt condemned though. The issue in that news report also says it's been leaking into neighbors backyards for 4 months.![]()
Jacksonville house condemned after leaking septic tank floods neighbors’ backyards
A family’s home has been condemned after its leaking septic tank left a smelly mess in neighbors’ yards.www.actionnewsjax.com
I agree with this. It's an issue with your field filling up. The height issue (perhaps) is about the tank not being far enough above the field, so you're getting water into the tank. I've seen a similar problem with an older property when drainage changed and the yard started saturating - the tank itself was about at ground level and if the whole thing is water logged, nothing you can do. I think the only way to really resolve it is to go to a pressure based septic system, which is a total re-do.You are having a leach field issue not a tank issue, by nature tanks are meant to be mostly full at all times. I live in the northeast and my tank is only about 5" below grade, never had a problem.
Doesn't cost much more to dig it 10ft vs 5ft.The required debt his based on the frost debth.
under normal operation the water level must be kept below the frost debth so the top of the tank and access can be shallower
The deeper you bury it the more money it costs so the depth is based on the frost debth, the water table and the site grading and drainage. The goal is to put it deep enough that it works without spending extra money
in Southern California it is not uncommon to find the top of the old cesspools at grade. At my house we found the old cesspool because we were removing some junk concrete in the lawn between the house and pool. Since this was an old brick structure that was filled when they built the pool we simply removed the top couple of feet of the cone and filled the hole
Not around here. Our frost depth is 48" and lines are typically around 18-24" below grade.The required debt his based on the frost debth.
under normal operation the water level must be kept below the frost debth so the top of the tank and access can be shallower
The deeper you bury it the more money it costs so the depth is based on the frost debth, the water table and the site grading and drainage. The goal is to put it deep enough that it works without spending extra money
in Southern California it is not uncommon to find the top of the old cesspools at grade. At my house we found the old cesspool because we were removing some junk concrete in the lawn between the house and pool. Since this was an old brick structure that was filled when they built the pool we simply removed the top couple of feet of the cone and filled the hole
Any tank I've dealt with in the northeast doesn't really get frost above it. Turns out all that bacterial activity generates a bit of heat!Not around here. Our frost depth is 48" and lines are typically around 18-24" below grade.
Any tank I've dealt with in the northeast doesn't really get frost above it. Turns out all that bacterial activity generates a bit of heat!
Mine is about a foot down.
If the OP has standing water on top of the tank that's a grading issue. If nothing works when the ground is flooded, that's a field issue. If he has both issues then they should be addressed independently, as one won't solve the other.
Then you need to do a topographic survey to find out why the lot is not draining and what is wrong with the gradingThe only time it is slow to flush is if we have a huge rain that floods out the entire lot and puts water over the lid. Any normal rainstorm it does just fine.
Depends on where you are. Here, it's gonna cost a LOT more..Doesn't cost much more to dig it 10ft vs 5ft.
Maybe $30 of fuel, if that.
True.Depends on where you are. Here, it's gonna cost a LOT more..![]()
If your entire lot floods when it rains hard water covering your septic tank is not your only problem. Your leech field can not possible function when it is under water.The only time it is slow to flush is if we have a huge rain that floods out the entire lot and puts water over the lid. Any normal rainstorm it does just fine.
