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Set of Deming Bits

mbruffey

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I need a set of deming bits (9/16" - 1") that won't break the bank. Experiences? Thanks! M
 
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Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Needed one a couple of years back for one job. As I recall, there wasn’t a huge selection between “top end” and “relatively cheap”

In the end I went for one from MSC (think it was their house brand). Probably made in China, probably wouldn’t have done too many holes, but used at low speed, in softish steel, it worked fine. I’d buy another.

Seem to recall there was a decentish saving if you bought a set.
 

LeeG

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Nov 29, 2012
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Phoenix, AZ
My brother-in-law picked up the set from MSC and then replaced bits with good USA ones as they got destroyed. I went with the 'break your bank' method and started with an empty stand and filled it with USA made bits a few at a time.
 

gmcgeo

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brank the bank once by getting the correct product, ooooor brank the bank twice by buying one cheap and one good set down the road when the cheap one doesn't work. :Homer:
 

AA/FC

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I am sure I will get flamed for this, but these from HF worked well for me in fabbing some benches and an auto body rotisserie.
I have that set..... I purchased it in roughly 2005 or 2006 from HF. I have used that set heavily while doing several metal working projects over the years and other than bending one bit (used in a handheld Milwaukee Hole Hog) the set has held up well. In fact I just used one of those bits a few days ago.... still worked great.

Does the set still come in a wood box with metal latches?
 

lilredex

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Apr 29, 2006
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Toronto
I got a super deal on Butterfield bits about fifty years ago, had a friend working there. Added one extra that I needed along the way. Got the 29 piece set too, in the index box.
 

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JradM

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I've faced the OP's exact dilemma. For what it's worth, I adopted a hybrid approach.

First I happened across a clearance deal on a cheap set (e.g. something that cost about $70 regular that was on clearance for under $25). I bought two. They're not great sets, but patience and determination eventually results in holes.

Then I've been buying singles as I come across deals or have a specific need. I spend more on those.

One thing that has helped me is not being too picky about sizes. Having my basics covered by the sets means if I come across a good quality but cheap 53/64ths, I pick that up too. That way I can use the quality bits for most metal removal and jump to a cheap one if I need a specific final size.
 

NORTON'S SHOP

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Dec 30, 2010
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Upper Midwest
I need a set of deming bits (9/16" - 1") that won't break the bank. Experiences? Thanks! M
Whether you purchase a cheap set or a good set, take some time to learn how to thin the web on your drill bits. It will make your drilling experience much more enjoyable. Check youtube, many videos on how to do it. If you choose not to thin the web, drill a pilot hole the same size as the web thickness.
 

Outahere

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Mar 13, 2021
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Idaho
Milwaukee has individual S&D bits, made in China. Sizes range from 17/32" to 1 1/4", in 1/32" increments.


Milwaukee® S&D Black Oxide drill bits are designed for extreme durability and long life. A specially designed parabolic flute form clears chips fast, while the 3-Flat Secure-Grip™ shank holds the bit firmly in the drill chuck. The 135° split point tip delivers a precision start and prevents walking for fast, accurate holes.
 

vavet

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Mar 6, 2012
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Ashland, VA
I got a super deal on Butterfield bits about fifty years ago, had a friend working there. Added one extra that I needed along the way. Got the 29 piece set too, in the index box.
I had to do a serious doubletake to figure out what was attached to the end of your drill bits.
 

iajonesy

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Feb 8, 2009
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Iowa
Check the Classifieds here on GJ. I just today got a set from Cliff Pierce. He may have more on hand.

Mike
 

bob15

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Northeasten, CT
You know, this is really a great discussion forum! I appreciate all the responses! I ordered these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171709553029 (made an offer [hint]). M

Good luck with it, if you win it. They aren't the highest of import quality.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/alternative-us-made-drill-bits.436858/
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/drill-hog-warranty.405652/
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/drill-bit-set-recommendations.451096/
 
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PoorUB

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Mar 29, 2021
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Fargo, ND
We have a surplus store in town and I just buy my drill bits there, one at a time. Most of the time I can find a USA brand. Most are slightly used but machine resharpened. Drill bits are about $5 or so for a 5/8ths, or 3/4" bit. I should make a run by and just stock up!

Same with large tread taps. I needed a 3/4" UNC tap the other day and they had a brand new tap for $5. Anywhere I looked they were $20 or more.

You really need to be careful with import bits. Most I see are sharpened poorly, the look like the used a 36 grit abrasive wheel on them. Some I have seen are not even sharpened properly. The relief angle goes the wrong way so the cutting edge doesn't hit the material!
 
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mbruffey

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May 8, 2011
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Yeah. I just saw that video. I have ordered the M7 set (offer taken). If they arrive all jagged, I'll try to post some pics here (if that's permitted). m
 

Snip

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Jan 9, 2011
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Crossville, Tennessee
One thing to remember, with either a high end set or a economical motivated set (PC for cheap,lol) one thing that will make a much better drilling experience and prolong the life (my opinion) of larger bits is to step drill the hole. Start with a sharp 1/8 or 1/4" bit and maybe 1 size between there and final size. While it seems redundant and sounds longer it really isn't. I've drilled a ton of semi truck frames for stretches, shortening, suspension changes etc. This has worked well for me, even when drilling in the mill. YMMV
 

bob15

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Yeah. I just saw that video. I have ordered the M7 set (offer taken). If they arrive all jagged, I'll try to post some pics here (if that's permitted). m

Please do. I would also be curious if they have USA on their shanks. If you remember, could you let us know on that as well.
 

Tools4Me

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Jun 22, 2021
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546
Please do. I would also be curious if they have USA on their shanks. If you remember, could you let us know on that as well.
I'm very curious as well, because when they first started out Drill Hog was putting China made drill bits into US made Huot drill index cases and then using them as justification to add "US made" to their listing titles. The "Made in America" sticker you see on the inside of the bit index and stamped on the index front in their photos refers only to the metal index itself not the bits in the index. Then they named their company "Drill Hog USA" and put their business card in their listing images so you would see "USA" everywhere you look, but nothing ever mentioned where the actual drill bits were made.

Their prices are now quite high for China made bits, so hopefully they are now selling US made bits. I don't have high hopes though. I really don't like their company, because they have been slowly accumulating bad reviews online, from people complaining about how much US made drill bit quality has fallen and how expensive they still are. Little did the customers know, they were being duped by Drill Hog and US made drill bits are still usually very good quality.
 
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dr_clyde

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Drill hog is shady as hell. Any company that hides behind false advertising and takes advantage of patriotism as their primary way to sell products is so morally and ethically wrong I wouldn't take their product for free.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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I doubt you're going to get USA bits from Drill Hog. This has been discussed many times and if the bits aren't marked USA on sizes where it's possible, they aren't made in USA. I think Norseman marks USA on any size above 1/8". And like Dr Clyde said, I also despise Drill Hogs shady tactics.
The "problem" with deming bits is that they're prone to slip when drilling steel if they don't have flats for the chuck. I have a set but never really use them as I have a drill press and for large sizes I have bits with a taper that replace the chuck. I've also started using some carbide tipped hole saws...
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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Dorset. England.
^ same, I pretty much always use morse taper shank for larger drills, I only have a few "blacksmith" drills (what Silver and deming are called here) and those have only been bought used for very cheap or been given. There place is large holes drilled with a hand held drill.
 

MushCreek

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Upstate South Carolina
I bought a cheap set off ebay for the few big holes I drill. I run them SLOW, and use cutting oil. In steel, I use them in a milling machine as well, so plenty of pressure to keep them cutting. So far, they've been fine. If I were running a business, or doing production work, then I'd pony up for better ones, but these are fine for my use.
 
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mbruffey

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SHOW AND TELL. Well-packaged. Shipped fast. Look nice. Feel sharp. (I am not a machinist.)P1140737.JPGP1140738.JPGP1140741.JPGP1140742.JPGP1140743.JPGP1140744.JPGP1140745.JPGP1140746.JPGP1140748.JPGP1140749.JPG
 
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mbruffey

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bob15, I have to apologize. I was so intent on showing the packaging and a few close-ups that I forgot the main point. I thought about this as I was posting the pics. They don't say "Made in USA." I'm sure that they would if they were. No location is printed on the shank. If you look carefully you can see sizes and HSS. I'm assuming China. Is the specific font used for the imprint characteristic of any known mfg.? Else, chinese. For me, next time I need a big bit, I'll have these handy. That's mainly what I was after. And besides, I got a nice $20 box!
 

bob15

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Thanks, I kinda thought the wouldn't have USA on them. Thanks for reporting/updating what your set looks like and is from. Good luck with them!
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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They'll probably be ok, but the last two pics appear to show a lack of quality in sharpening.
also, everyone always says, "drill slow". But it's really "drill at the proper speed". If you try and drill a 3/4 hole in steel with a bit at 150 RPM you'll go ~nowhere. Too slow can equal zero progress. There are charts and formulas to determine the correct speed. Obviously using a hand drill you'll have to guess, but if you have a drill press...
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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They'll probably be ok, but the last two pics appear to show a lack of quality in sharpening.
also, everyone always says, "drill slow". But it's really "drill at the proper speed". If you try and drill a 3/4 hole in steel with a bit at 150 RPM you'll go ~nowhere. Too slow can equal zero progress. There are charts and formulas to determine the correct speed. Obviously using a hand drill you'll have to guess, but if you have a drill press...
I have to disagree, have drilled hundreds of large holes with a Bport @ 60rpm in back gear in CR/HR steel and the holes come out very nice without chatter and the edge tools last a long time. In the lathe at 110rpm in W1 (annealed) tool steel. As opposed to even using a 20" DP at its minimum of 300 rpm, the holes will come out chattery. As suggested earlier drill a pilot hole so the center web doesn't have to rub around material which just creates heat that's detrimental to the rest of it. The 100sfm charts are from 1920s industrial engineers who were trying to figure out how many horizontal mills they had to order to run their factories at rate. For example 100sfm = 1200 s-ipm. Your 1" dia bit has 3.14" of "surface" and so you divide that and come up with 382rpm which I regard as screaming. If you are paying for your own edge tools you will learn via your wallet you don't have to run them at warp 9 unless you are chasing actual profits. Resist the temptation to get 135 degree S+D bits (which cost extra and might seem "premium") as they don't follow a center hole worth a darn and you get low quality holes that are chattery at first until the bit starts piloting on the OD. Also super easy to break the razor sharp center and then it rubs even more.

I went the buy once cry once route and ordered a 33pc set of Triumph x 1/64" steps @ 118 deg included (MSC had a discount code that actually worked on it) as I wanted all the sizes and to eliminate the possibility of coming up short at an inopportune time.
 

tarbellb

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Matt_i always giving good advice ^^^


My MO has been to check Ebay for these expensive unique consumables. Often you find a seller with NOS, surplus, or lightly used retirees selling at a fraction. Specially if buying singles.
 

MushCreek

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Yeah, I run drills pretty slow. I spent 40 years cutting tool steels, so I'm very conservative. With the down force of a milling machine or good drill press, they'll cut just fine.
 

Steve_P

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I am using a 3/4 HP drill press, and I get almost nowhere at 150-200 RPM on large holes; ~500 RPM, no problem and no tearing up bits; and I drill a pilot hole. 500 RPM is about what comes up with the formulas online.
 
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