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Shallowest Pass-Through Socket Set?

YoshiMoshi3

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Anyone know who makes the shallowest pass-through socket set. I'm caving in and need to buy a set. I would like something that would be equivalent to 3/8 " drive or 1/2 " drive in terms of torque I can apply to it. I know there's lots of 1/4" drive pass through sets that are extremely thin with a small handle. I need something that I can apply a lot more torque to than that.
 
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Cruzan80

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Weren't you the person who was already developing the list of shortest ratchets, sockets, torque wrenches, combinations thereof, etc?

How short does it need to be (or what is the tallest it could be without being taller than what you already have)?
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Weren't you the person who was already developing the list of shortest ratchets, sockets, torque wrenches, combinations thereof, etc?

How short does it need to be (or what is the tallest it could be without being taller than what you already have)?
Hi thanks I did, but I didn't detail pass through socket sets. Seems that there are not many manufacturers.
 

Toold_up

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I have Armstrong/Matco ratchets and sockets. Do you need measurements?


The 1/2" Armstrong ratchet+socket fits places a normal 1/4 drive ratchet+socket does not...
 

GeoBruin

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Does it need to be a truly pass-through socket set, or would it suffice to use a low profile socket set with an external hex drive along with a ratcheting wrench? I guess the difference is that the "pass through" capability would be limited to the respective drive sizes (the size of the square drive, whether 3/8" or 1/2" square hole, would be the largest size bolt/shaft you could pass."

If that works, I recommend the Astro nano sockets and the extended ratcheting pass through wrench.


 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Metric. Yes I was creating a database. But not for pass through sockets. There doesn't appear to be many makers of such tools. Could probably create a database, or at least compare and contrast them easily. Looks like a good amount of them all are the same and just rebranded. It seems that the longest ratchet is the GW one 893800 at 12 inches long might be the longest handled one? Yes pass through to stick an allen key in it. I guess external hex would work to, but pass through would have more room with the hallowed out design over internal square?
 

Toold_up

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Metric. Yes I was creating a database. But not for pass through sockets. There doesn't appear to be many makers of such tools. Could probably create a database, or at least compare and contrast them easily. Looks like a good amount of them all are the same and just rebranded. It seems that the longest ratchet is the GW one 893800 at 12 inches long might be the longest handled one? Yes pass through to stick an allen key in it. I guess external hex would work to, but pass through would have more room with the hallowed out design over internal square?

I have a 24" flex head pass through.

You are out of your mind if you think you can apply 1/2 drive forces to a 1/4 drive mechanism.
 

Rabid Badger

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I have to question the need for an ultra low profile pass-through socket set. Engineers make questionable decisions all the time, but a compound fastener in a low access area isn't something I've ever seen or heard of.
 

mikey03

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This is the thread that got all the answers you could ever want

 

david3921

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Metric. Yes I was creating a database. But not for pass through sockets. There doesn't appear to be many makers of such tools. Could probably create a database, or at least compare and contrast them easily. Looks like a good amount of them all are the same and just rebranded. It seems that the longest ratchet is the GW one 893800 at 12 inches long might be the longest handled one? Yes pass through to stick an allen key in it. I guess external hex would work to, but pass through would have more room with the hallowed out design over internal square?
Guessing you need to disassemble/reassemble Macpherson struts?
 

AEAdam

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I don’t understand I think ANY @YoshiMoshi3 posts. Why isn’t a box wrench the answer here? Or an offset box wrench.

I feel like the point at which you need some sort of unicorn tool is the point maybe you are just doing it wrong. The last one, I think you said the workshop manual said disconnect an engine mount and just rotate the engine to access. You didn’t want to do that. That isn’t actually that big of a deal. So you went looking for a special tool, that I think didn’t exist. Was it a low height torque wrench?

I sound annoyed and critical. Really just trying to help. The point at which you feel you need the shallowest, yet high torque, pass thru socket set, AND there are only a few manufacturers of such tools, should be your clue to start searching for another solution.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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I don’t understand I think ANY @YoshiMoshi3 posts. Why isn’t a box wrench the answer here? Or an offset box wrench.

I feel like the point at which you need some sort of unicorn tool is the point maybe you are just doing it wrong. The last one, I think you said the workshop manual said disconnect an engine mount and just rotate the engine to access. You didn’t want to do that. That isn’t actually that big of a deal. So you went looking for a special tool, that I think didn’t exist. Was it a low height torque wrench?

I sound annoyed and critical. Really just trying to help. The point at which you feel you need the shallowest, yet high torque, pass thru socket set, AND there are only a few manufacturers of such tools, should be your clue to start searching for another solution.
My bad. I'm working on a newer accord sway bar end link that has some sort of flange around the top on the strut, preventing a flat box end from working, really kind of silly design. But yes I think I need pass through for this. Yes can just impact them off, but I've been told you don't want to do that with ball joints because hammering the ball into the bearing. Can just cut off, but may be able to reuse if they are ok shape. Extended ratchet box will also work, but I don't have a set. So getting pass through set.
 

KnurledNut

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My bad. I'm working on a newer accord sway bar end link that has some sort of flange around the top on the strut, preventing a flat box end from working, really kind of silly design. But yes I think I need pass through for this. Yes can just impact them off, but I've been told you don't want to do that with ball joints because hammering the ball into the bearing. Can just cut off, but may be able to reuse if they are ok shape. Extended ratchet box will also work, but I don't have a set. So getting pass through set.
This?
1779467681537.png
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Yea I think like that. I'm getting it just in case I need it, don't think I will but I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it as they say. Can just impact or cut it off, but I want to try and reuse it.
 

KnurledNut

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Yea I think like that. I'm getting it just in case I need it, don't think I will but I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it as they say. Can just impact or cut it off, but I want to try and reuse it.
No judging here. I would probably grab it from behind like I pictured. But I understand trying to minimize damage by using the hex provided on the stud, especially if its not too rusty.
To stay on track, I have some of the pass-thru sockets that have a retaining ball incorporated. These can be used with any 19mm or 3/4 wrench. I have them both in 12 point spline and 6 point hex as well as a 3" extension.

55287740445_4776cd0a92_b.jpg

This is one of those oddball scenarios where one of those french cles-a-pipe L-shaped wrenches would work too if you want to fight and cuss its short length. :lol:

Ecomm_Large-MOD.75-1PB_1.jpg
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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No judging here. I would probably grab it from behind like I pictured. But I understand trying to minimize damage by using the hex provided on the stud, especially if its not too rusty.
To stay on track, I have some of the pass-thru sockets that have a retaining ball incorporated. These can be used with any 19mm or 3/4 wrench. I have them both in 12 point spline and 6 point hex as well as a 3" extension.

55287740445_4776cd0a92_b.jpg

This is one of those oddball scenarios where one of those french cles-a-pipe L-shaped wrenches would work too if you want to fight and cuss its short length. :lol:

Ecomm_Large-MOD.75-1PB_1.jpg
What's the one in the first picture
 

Toold_up

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My wrench in my Armstrong set is about 11 in.

IMG20250830101315.jpg

Seems kinda odd to have a 2 foot one but I guess it's possible.


Ok so technically it's branded Matco, but it was made by Armstrong and their Eliminator series. They also made torque wrenches in the Eliminator series.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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Ok so technically it's branded Matco, but it was made by Armstrong and their Eliminator series. They also made torque wrenches in the Eliminator series.
This one?
 

Toold_up

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This one?

Yes but 1/2" drive and 24" flex head.
 

Pinne

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@YoshiMoshi3 You are making all of your basic maintenance projects much more complicated than they need to be. Impact the nut off - you aren't going to damage the end link. You can likely hold the back of the end link with a pair of long nose vise grips if needed - most of them have a flange of some sort (with many factory links even having wrench flats back there).

Even if you do buy a pass through socket setup for this the likelihood of rounding off the hex / torx interface on that end link is very high.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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@YoshiMoshi3 You are making all of your basic maintenance projects much more complicated than they need to be. Impact the nut off - you aren't going to damage the end link. You can likely hold the back of the end link with a pair of long nose vise grips if needed - most of them have a flange of some sort (with many factory links even having wrench flats back there).

Even if you do buy a pass through socket setup for this the likelihood of rounding off the hex / torx interface on that end link is very high.
Which manufacturer makes sway bar end links with wrench flats? I think most of the OEM manufacturers have a completely circular base/flange that you cannot easily grip onto. It seems like a lot of aftermarket ones come with wrench flats on the flange base area.

I have good luck with using something similar to RBRT allen key bits, and taking them off with a regular combination wrench without issue. Using a regular allen key, very high probability of rounding it out and you have to cut the nut off a few threads prior to rounding out the allen key hole, then it rounds out and you can't unthread any more threads. But at that point you can get it off at the very threads you expose.
 

Toold_up

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Pinne

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Which manufacturer makes sway bar end links with wrench flats? I think most of the OEM manufacturers have a completely circular base/flange that you cannot easily grip onto. It seems like a lot of aftermarket ones come with wrench flats on the flange base area.

I have good luck with using something similar to RBRT allen key bits, and taking them off with a regular combination wrench without issue. Using a regular allen key, very high probability of rounding it out and you have to cut the nut off a few threads prior to rounding out the allen key hole, then it rounds out and you can't unthread any more threads. But at that point you can get it off at the very threads you expose.
BMW and many Euro brands have wrench flats.

Even if there is just a completely round backing, that is exactly why you would use long nose vise grips.
 
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YoshiMoshi3

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BMW and many Euro brands have wrench flats.

Even if there is just a completely round backing, that is exactly why you would use long nose vise grips.
Thanks never worked on one of those brands. I think it's a better design to not have wrench flats. You have any luck with specific sway bar end link pliers?
1779632534579.png
I've tried and didn't really work for me, had to cut off.
 
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Pinne

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Thanks never worked on one of those brands. I think it's a better design to have wrench flats. You have any luck with specific sway bar end link pliers?
1779632534579.png
I've tried and didn't really work for me, had to cut off.
BMW does a good job of this. Sadly the aftermarket end links I usually end up using never have real wrench flats.

I haven't used those pliers, but the 9" Bremen long nose locking plier from HF is good for this and has a 1/4" square drive on the thumb screw to really clamp it down. I've also been using a bent nose pair from Grip-On that are a bit easier to maneuver around the struts.
 
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