Shed Build Construction

[D45]

Next thing will be some solar power LED lights on the walls. I'm thinking a total of two. One on each side of the door

Also am researching and will plan to build an awning for over the door area

 

[captain14]

The awning will help with the life of the doors, especially if they face the weather.

 

[D45]

Shed looks great and the paint is holding up great, 2 years after painting

 

[DGersic]

I am building a 10x12 shed, from scratch

I have build 2 before, so it should go smoothly.......

What joist spacing should I use for the floor with 2x4x10 pressure treated lumber? 16" on center ok?

Is pressure treated plywood flooring totally needed?

The price difference for a 4x8 sheet of treated is considerably more!

What thickness of plywood flooring should I use, 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4"?

I plan on resting the entire shed on four pieces (evenly spaced out) of 4x4x12 pressure treated posts

Use 2x6 joists. I’m lazy, rather than try to figure out what joist or stud spacing I can get away with, I just do everything on 16” centers. No thinking or research needed.

3/4” PT plywood will outlast anything else. Use it.

Four posts is not enough. Add more.

 

[D45]

Four treated posts over a 10' width have been fine

Shed is level and no sagging

Treated 2x4s spacing 12" on center

 

[D45]

Well 10 years later, the wood timbers around the crushed limestone base is deteriorating fast

I'm going to remove all timbers and replace them with ground contact rated pressure treated 4x4 or 4x6 posts......then fill in areas with a few bags of crushed limestone

What should I use to drill and anchor the 4x4 posts securely into the ground?

I'm currently just using sections of cut rebar and am wanting to explore some better options......if available

 

[Jacko264]

I would remove the 4x4 and sit the shed on concrete blocks I would also. Put a timber skirt to cover the concrete block
G
ps I wish you had put a timber door on the shed I like that type of building
G

 

[MikeC55]

I’m building this one right now based on a kit that Simpson used to sell. I’m using PT 2x8 for floor structure and 5/4 decking for floor. The brackets make joinery easy for the gambrel roof. If anyone would like copy of the plans, PM me.

 

[D45]

The 4x4 posts under the shed are rock solid with zero signs of deteriorating

The landscape timbers surrounding the crushed stone base are what needs replacement

 

[Jacko264]

sorry I must put my glasses on to read posts

 

[RickP]

What should I use to drill and anchor the 4x4 posts securely into the ground?

I'm currently just using sections of cut rebar and am wanting to explore some better options......if available

I personally like using rebar, but I think it needs to be bigger than 1/2" if you want it to be solid. I used 5/8" rebar (5' long) for a short retaining wall: about 14" tall. It's been rock solid so far. Before backfilling it, I stapled black plastic and landscape fabric to the back of the wall.

I've also seen long screw anchors used for drilling down into dirt, but they'd be a lot more $$$ than rebar.

 

[D45]

Pressure treated 4x4 posts, which is better:

Ground contact rated

Critical structure rated

 

[RickP]

I always use ground contact rated.
They still rot eventually, but it takes a little longer.

 

[D45]

Found this info......sounds like critical structure has a better grade and more chemical components and "critical structure" is a more robust treatment than "ground contact."

While both terms relate to pressure-treated wood, "critical structure" refers to a higher grade of treatment used for structural components that need extra protection against decay and rot, typically in situations where the wood is deeply buried in the ground or supporting significant weight, whereas "ground contact" indicates a standard level of treatment suitable for wood that will be directly in contact with soil, but not necessarily carrying heavy loads; essentially, "critical structure" is a more robust treatment than "ground contact.".

Key points to remember:

Treatment level:
Critical structure lumber has a higher concentration of preservative chemicals compared to ground contact lumber, making it more resistant to decay and insect damage.

Application:
Critical structure lumber is typically used for structural components like deck posts, pergola supports, or utility poles that are deeply buried in the ground or supporting significant weight, while ground contact lumber can be used for things like fence posts or landscaping timbers that are in contact with the soil.

Building codes:
Many local building codes may require "critical structure" treatment for certain structural applications, especially when the wood is heavily exposed to moisture or ground contact.

--------------------

Forna very small price difference, I am going to look at getting critical structure rated 4x4 posts.

I need two of the 4x4x12 and probably four of the 4x4x10

 

[Jackfre]

I built a small shed last year and was going to use T-111 for the siding. I was surprised to find Hardi B&B 4x8 panels for almost $30/sheet less. Your shed looks great.

 

[D45]

The timbers I had originally installed were only dipped in preservative chemicals

The 4x4 posts I just bought are pressure treated and should hold up much much longer

I bought two 12' pieces and 4 8' pieces for $86

 

[Blackjackx1031]

Hello,

I have tried on reddit to get answers to these questions to no avail. I am building a 14 x 24 finished lean to shed/office. I i want to fully insulate the space with Rockwool and the space will be heated and cooled using a ductless minisplit. But i am unsure on how to ventilate the space properly, and i have heard many different ways. I plan on insulating the roof and will be putting baffles so there is enough room for air to travel through to. I live in Salem, Oregon.

The walls will be insulated with rockwool and then drywalled. Do i need ventilation from the inside going out? How would i ventilate that? Everything i have read has said to use a gable but i only see that being done on gable roofs and a tiny attic space?

Also plan on using zip sheathing but is that really necessary? I feel like its overkill for a finished office shed but would like peoples opinion on the zip system.

Also is this a question better asked in the HVAC part of the forum?

 

[D45]

How about creating your own thread.......

 

[Blackjackx1031]

How about creating your own thread.......

Sorry i thought this was a group thread. And not specifically to yours.

 

[xtremek]

Sorry i thought this was a group thread. And not specifically to yours.

You should know that the GJ bunch can never get enough of builds. So even if this was a group thread, we'd still love to see your build. And make sure you put the link to your build in your signature.

 

[D45]

This project took me about 5 hours

The old timbers came up easy and were very dry rotted and falling apart. I cut them into small pieces for the burn pile.

I bought a small pack of 6" headlock screws to anchor in the end corners to each other. I did not do this with the old timbers and did have some gaps open up. This box was $18.60

14 bags of all purpose limestone filled in the base nicely....$4.69 per bag

I reused all the old rebar to anchor the new 4x4 posts into the ground, after I drilled pilot holes. Free!

I will get some finished pictures up tomorrow morning

 

[xtremek]

I can't believe you replaced those old boards, they look like they're good for another 100..............minutes. lol

 

[D45]

Haha. It was crazy how brittle those dipped timbers were.....

I should have used PT 4x4 posts in the beginning

Well it's all done. Very please with it with a half day project and probably around $150 spent

I also used four Simpson angle brackets at each inner corner and two Simpson flat tie in plates.

Very very solid now

 

[D45]

This year, I'm thinking about an awning for the door area

This will help with rain and snow sitting on the aluminum threshold and cover the door opening alittle better

Any ideas?

 

[captain14]

This year, I'm thinking about an awning for the door area

This will help with rain and snow sitting on the aluminum threshold and cover the door opening alittle better

Any ideas?

This is a small overhang on an outward swing door. In older neighborhoods, this is quite common. Second pic just mimics the house hip roof.

You just have to have the supports mounted above head level. I know you have a roll up door.

On my shed, I just used two 2x4s, one on a bevel with a piece of aluminum I picked up someplace. I wanted to open the doors fully and not hit my head. Enough to keep the weather off the south facing doors.

And here’s something I found on Yiutube when I watched his shed build addition.

 

[KYToolz]

@D45 I just finished reading through your entire thread and just wanted to congratulate you on a job well done. I look forward to seeing any additions and upgrades that you may make to your shed in the future.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

16 x 12 not too bad. Roof was 4 12, 4x4 and 2x6 foundation, 2x8 walls, 1/2 inch floor should have got 3/4. 4 month project done.

 

[drbooshkit]

New to the forum here. Just read through your build after researching 2x4 vs 2x6 joists. I appreciated all your images and REALLY appreciate the 10 year follow up. beginning my own shed build in a few weeks.... might start a thread to share. cheers

 

[xtremek]

New to the forum here. Just read through your build after researching 2x4 vs 2x6 joists. I appreciated all your images and REALLY appreciate the 10 year follow up. beginning my own shed build in a few weeks.... might start a thread to share. cheers

What are you planning on putting in the shed? When it was just my toolboxes and me walking around, I used 2x6s for the floor joists. My paint booth is getting 2x12s and 1 1/2" sub-floor because I expect to put a lot of weight on it.

 

[drbooshkit]

We have a small yard, and my real workshop is in the basement. So Shed will be just garden tools, push mower... very lightweight. not even a big enough laawn to justify a riding mower!! : )