Shed Build Construction

[glider]

I use 2" galvanized ring shank nails.

 

[jasong70]

I have this in a 4x7: http://www.tracrite.com/ (the 944 model) and they will make it any width/height you want or need. When I ordered mine, the neighbor ordered a 5x7.

The space a roll up is much less than a conventional gara door unless you're using swing open doors. My 4x7 roll up occupies about 12" above the door and 12" out. It's really compact. I have a shelf above it.

The downside to a garage door is that it gets in the way if you want to get stuff out of the rafters.

Thanks for the info.......I will not be sheathing the inside, just leaving it bare studs

Yes, the front wall will be built with a few more 2x4s for added strength

The rollup overhead garage doors like Glider and I have discussed only come in 4x7 or 6x7 sizes.........I really don't want a huge rollup door up front, because I don't want to loose the storage and I think it will look odd to have something wider than a 6' wide door, with a 10' wide shed

 

[Tripp2012]

I use 2" galvanized ring shank nails.

I used 2 1/2 ring shank on my garage it's what Lowes had on clearence. Make sure it's square before you pop the first one in. Once it's there it's there you will distroy the panel trying to remove the nail.

 

[D45]

The Tracrite rollup door is MUCH more expensive than the Ideal rollup at Menards

OUCH

 

[Beemer533]

I went back and forth on what I wanted to do for the main door on my 12x12 shed ... I really wanted a rollup so I wouldn't have to worry about the snow blocking the doors shut.

In the end I decided on a slider for a couple reasons; I would be able to use all the space inside, I could use the material I already had around (siding I cut from opening, 2x4, trim).
The only stuff I bought was the track and sliders from Tractor Supply for about $60. In the end it worked pretty well.. only took a couple hours to put together (plus trim work) and I haven't had any problems with snow..

I went with a 5.5' opening:

Sheeted

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Rear of door


Trimmed out

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Installed

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Done
(mostly)

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[REXAMUS]

Looks nice!

 

[glider]

Nice looking building Beemer.

 

[Beemer533]

Thanks guys, it was fun! Gave me a reason to buy some new tools as well...

As far as the sliding door goes, it has been about 2 years and it has worked very well. Looking back, I'm glad I didn't end up spending the cash on a rollup door.

I will say though, I must have been looking in the wrong places because the cheapest rollup I found were closer to $500..

 

[vette66bob]

Beemer, few quick questions. 1. Wall height? 2. Latch on slider? 3. Size of man door. 4. where did you get window for the peak?
Nice job looks like it belongs in the setting.

 

[D45]

That's a cool feature and a nice shed!

Any regrets on the roof shape/design?

I have contemplated doing a simple roof resign like that, but I am still leaning towards a gambrel style roof for the added loft storage

 

[Beemer533]

Beemer, few quick questions. 1. Wall height? 2. Latch on slider? 3. Size of man door. 4. where did you get window for the peak?
Nice job looks like it belongs in the setting.

I sized the walls so I would not need to cut the 4x8 sheets of T-111 siding; I will have to look at my plan, but I think I subtracted 4.5" (2 top plate and 1 bottom) from an 8' stud. This gave me an overall interior wall height of 8'.

I will take a close up photo for you, but the "latch" is simply an multi hinged padlock hasp to allow for the height differences. I will see if i can find a part number.

I will check when I get home, but I think that was a 32x80 standard exterior door.

Originally I was not going to bother with any windows as I did not want to waste any storage area (the "trimmed out" photo above was how I was going to leave it... But then I was convinced that it would look a bit better with some windows, so I decided to just cut out the peak around the existing framing. Once I made it symetrical, I trimmed them out and then took measurements.

I just bought some 1/8" glass from the local True Value and cut them to fit the trimmed out opening.

That was my wife who said "we better not end up with a big *** box in the middle of the yard!!!" So with that directive I made it blend in a bit

That's a cool feature and a nice shed!

Any regrets on the roof shape/design?

I have contemplated doing a simple roof resign like that, but I am still leaning towards a gambrel style roof for the added loft storage

Thanks!

I had a few somewhat minor regrets; The main one was that I wish I hadn't been sort of lazy and actually cut the rafter tails so that the facia was vertical instead of the angle they are at. Not a big one, but it sort of annoys me now...

The other was not using PVC trim for everything.. As i slowly work on my house I am replacing what I can with PVC. That stuff is awesome and for me, having white trim on everything, I actually don't even need to paint it..

I will post a photo of the interior, but with the interior peak of 11', there is a lot of space in there.. You would get a bit more storage with the gambrel style, but for me it just didn't go with the house.

I was actually going to side it to match the house (10" cedar clapboards) but the siding alone would have cost me over $1000!!

 

[Beemer533]

Here is a close up of the latch:



Works pretty well, other than the fact spiders like to make nests behind it..

Here is an interior shot... You will definitely get more space with a gambrel style roof, but this worked out for me in the end... I turned the light on inside, so hopefully you can see..

I still have more shelving to make, especially up top to maximize storage.

 

[Motown]

How air tight is the sliding door? Where you able to seal it from dirt blowing in?

 

[Beemer533]

That was my biggest concern originally. I was going to put a small angled roof over the track and brush type weather stripping around the edge..

But after I installed it and used for a couple of months, I wasn't really getting any rain or debris blown in... I think the big thing is the orientation; that door is facing north and around here, I can leave the windows on the north side of my house open in a torrential rain, and nothing comes in.. East and west, that is a different story.

All that being said, I wouldn't want to live in there the way the door is right now!

With some thought and a bit of effort, I think it could be made relatively tight. Realistically though, if you really need a tight entrance into your shed, I would consider putting together a couple pre hung doors or use an overhead for a tight seal.

 

[Beemer533]

I think if you just want to keep dirt out, something like this would work


This image is from McMaster-Carr, but I'm sure there are cheaper places to get it..
This is what I was originally going to use.

 

[usmc_noma]

Any updates to the shed build?

I'm really digging the sliding door Beemer. It turned out great.

 

[D45]

Been really slacking.......sorry

Spent a weekend tearing out the master closet and redo-ing everything, paint, lighting, shelving, etc

Then took a week to open and clean the 27'x48" pool.......and some deck work

This past weekend I had a3 hours to kill, so I finished the front entry wall


I used 10 studs on the front, since there will be doors and I figured it might need more weight support/structure.

I framed the opening for 48", so my lawn tractor will fit and so I will have storage on the sides of each opening.

 

[D45]

I will start making trusses this week for the roof design

I am going with a gambrel style, just not sure yet on the specs or pitch

 

[Beemer533]

Looks good! Based on where you put your door opening, it looks like you are going with a normal double door?

I like what you did with the base.. That is something I have slacked off on with mine.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[D45]

Looks good! Based on where you put your door opening, it looks like you are going with a normal double door?

I like what you did with the base.. That is something I have slacked off on with mine.

Thanks!

What do you mean wit the base? Yours looks pretty similar, I just used one more 4x4 posts

I am still not certain on the door type yet......I have a 42" deck on my riding mower and with the chute folded up it will fit with room to spare

I just felt a 6 foot wide door would look odd and I would lose too much storage on each side

I will either buy a 4' wide roll-up style door or build two doors (2 foot each) from scratch and attach them with HD hinges on each side.......not sure yet

 

[Beemer533]

Sorry, by "base" I meant the landscaping timbers and stone.. Looks more finished than mine! I really need to clean it up and lay some stone down around it...

 

[xtremek]

Following along, since the wife wants a garden shed/duck house next year.

 

[Beemer533]

Save yourself a bunch of money and time and design it first in Sketchup or something similar..
I was able to figure out what I needed down to the stud, as well as what it would look like when done...

Of course I did deviate a bit during construction, but it worked out...

 

[xtremek]

I've been scrounging lumber and was about say that I've got it handled when I noticed your sketch and thought of a ton of details I missed, especially the soffets. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[D45]

I need to find some roof truss plans for a gambrel design to make roof building a lot faster and easier

My shed is 10x12

Looking for specs on what I should cut the 2x4s to.....length, angles, etc

I have a ton a spare plywood cuts to use to join the 2x4s together at the angled transitions

 

[D45]

 

[D45]

This might work for me:
http://www.shedking.net/shed-roof-gambrel.html

"Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end"

 

[Beemer533]

That looks like it would work well; being able to cut all the pieces exactly the same will save tons of time.

Out of curiosity, are you doing a double top plate or a door header?

 

[D45]

That looks like it would work well; being able to cut all the pieces exactly the same will save tons of time

Yes, that is what I thought also.......all the 2x4s for the roof will have the same length and the same angle

This will save a lot of cutting time and confusion time when assembling them!

 

[D45]

Out of curiosity, are you doing a double top plate or a door header?

I really don't see the need for a double top plate.......do you?

I will definitely be building a door header (probably using a 2x6??) once I determine how tall I want the door(s) to be........any suggestions?

I am thinking atleast 6 feet tall............maybe 7 feet to be safe?

 

[D45]

This might work for me:
http://www.shedking.net/shed-roof-gambrel.html

"Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end"

If I went with a 3'10" board for each angle of the truss, I would need about 20 of the 2x4x8 boards.........correct?

Now, if I dropped it down to a 3' board for each angle of the truss, I would need about 12 of the 2x4x12 boards?

Just trying to figure out if I do indeed need that tall (5 foot peak with the 3'10" sections) of the gambrel roof

Or. if I can save some money and do with a 3' sections?

 

[Beaumont67]

Great design Beemer533 - now that's what I call "purdy", nice job with character.

.....Done (mostly)

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[Beemer533]

I really don't see the need for a double top plate.......do you?

I will definitely be building a door header (probably using a 2x6??) once I determine how tall I want the door(s) to be........any suggestions?

I am thinking atleast 6 feet tall............maybe 7 feet to be safe?

Probably overkill, (I do realize it isn't a house;-) ) but I like to do a double top plate so I can overlap the corners and tie the walls together... Of course there are other ways to do it as well.

I guess another thing to consider is what you are using for siding, as the extra 1.5" could be pain.. I designed mine around 4x8 sheets so I took 4.5" (1 bottom plate and 2 top) subtracted that from an 8' 2x4 so my walls used a single 8' sheet with no cuts.

If you are using clabard siding it won't matter much.

I used a 2x6 for my header and put it right up against the top plate giving me a door height of about 7.5' high, minus the trim. So far that has worked very well for me.

 

[gml1998]

I built my 12x20 shed on 3 6x6x20' treated timbers. I used 3/4 inch dryply tongue and groove for deck. I do have air circulation under shed.
Had a near miss with the roll up door. I barely had the head room for the door in its rolled up position. Should have made the roof pitch an inch taller.
All trim around door is vinyl. Sill for door is vinyl Azek, angled to shed water.
Wifey wanted window boxes so I had to put windows in. Window boxes don't look to good without the windows.
I put her to work with the Paslode (I love cordless tools) to work off the price of the windows/window boxes.

 

[Beemer533]

This might work for me:
http://www.shedking.net/shed-roof-gambrel.html

"Each truss piece will be 3' 10" long on the top measurement and the angles cut will be 22.5 degrees off each end"

That site is pretty useful, where was it when I was building mine!

I like how they use Sketchup too....

If I went with a 3'10" board for each angle of the truss, I would need about 20 of the 2x4x8 boards.........correct?

Now, if I dropped it down to a 3' board for each angle of the truss, I would need about 12 of the 2x4x12 boards?

Just trying to figure out if I do indeed need that tall (5 foot peak with the 3'10" sections) of the gambrel roof

Or. if I can save some money and do with a 3' sections?

Well, I guess the issue is how high overall do you want to be.. and do you care? If not, you won't save that much in the end by going with the shorter lengths.. That and of course, how much **** you have or plan to pack into it

Just for fun I threw a gambrel roof on my framing (I modded it to be 10' wide)



Holy storage space!! I kind of wish I had done that now Oh well...

I get the same number of 2x4x8 as you mention... the only thing is that doesn't take into account the eaves, if you add them.

One thing I left in there was my door opening; I measured the height and as you can see, it ended up at 7' 4", minus trim (about 3/4"). I haven't had any issues with that height for carrying stuff in and out. Whatever you decide to do, I don't think I would go less than 7'.

 

[Beemer533]

Great design Beemer533 - now that's what I call "purdy", nice job with character.

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with it.

 

[Beemer533]

I built my 12x20 shed on 3 6x6x20' treated timbers. I used 3/4 inch dryply tongue and groove for deck. I do have air circulation under shed.
Had a near miss with the roll up door. I barely had the head room for the door in its rolled up position. Should have made the roof pitch an inch taller.
All trim around door is vinyl. Sill for door is vinyl Azek, angled to shed water.
Wifey wanted window boxes so I had to put windows in. Window boxes don't look to good without the windows.
I put her to work with the Paslode (I love cordless tools) to work off the price of the windows/window boxes.

Nice! I really wanted a roll up when I did mine, but I couldn't find one for less than $350 at the time.. I just couldn't justify it when I was able to throw mine together using the cutouts from the siding... With the tracks/rollers I think I spent about $75 on the door...

That paslode stuff is great, I have the trim nailer...

 

[D45]

I used precut 92-5/8" tall studs for the walls

So, with the bottom 2x4 and the top 2x4, the total wall height is 95 5/8" tall

With this being said, I am going to use a 4x8 sheet of wood siding which will cover the wall perfectly and hang down 3/8" on the shed base........perfect

 

[D45]

Holy storage space!! I kind of wish I had done that now Oh well...

I get the same number of 2x4x8 as you mention... the only thing is that doesn't take into account the eaves, if you add them.

Yes, that is why I love the gambrel roof design............the added storage is great

 

[D45]

Ok, so I realized I mess up with the door header......no big deal, very minor and very easily able to be fixed

Can I just use a 2x6 or 2x8 board and screw it in really well to the double stacked 2x4s on the frame?

Or, should I cut out a portion of the inner 2x4 and rest the 2x6/2x8 header ontop of the
2x4?