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Shed Build Construction

Beemer533

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That would probably be fine, but before you do anything, I would download the installation instructions for the door you will be using.

That will give you all the critical dimensions to fit the roll up door properly.
 
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theoldwizard1

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IMG_20140815_190630_017_zpse68a4lkz.jpg
Very nice looking, quality build !

I love gambrel roofs, especially when they stay with "traditional" angles. They are great for small buildings/sheds because they make the inside feel so much larger !

I have 2 questions for the experts


  1. As being built in the picture, there is no sofit. This is certainly simpler, but are there any negatives to this design ? (Water staining on the siding ?)
  2. Without ceiling joists except where there will be a loft or rafter ties (which would spoil the openness of the design) there is some lateral loading on the walls. Is this just not an issue on a small building/shed or should other construction techniques for the wall be considered ?
 
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D45

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I have built one like this before, but that was 10-11 years ago

It is still standing with the original wood siding, exactly like what I am using now

There has been no leaks or water marks on the walls

When I built the old one, I made sure the first start strip of shingles stuck out about 2" past the walls
 
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D45

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Also, keep in mine I need to install boards (2x4s) running vertical down from the first (front) ceiling truss to the top of the wall plate...........for mounting the top portion of the wood siding, which need to be spaced out at 16" OC also. I should have done this initially, but it slipped my mind

The same will also be done for the last (rear) truss.............while it is solid right now, I am sure this will increase the structural strength of the roof
 

mtwaterguy

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Since you apparently already know how to build and more importantly know how you're going to build this shed, why bother asking for advice. Seems like this is just trolling.
 
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D45

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Sorry you feel that way......not trolling

I am just looking for input and to verify that my methods are appropriate
 

Jason Lister

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Sorry you feel that way......not trolling

I am just looking for input and to verify that my methods are appropriate

I'm *pretty* sure you cant troll your own thread? (mtwaterguy, thanks for posting, but maybe... stfu?)

I really appreciate your process and detailed account. I am sure it will help with my own project here in the near future.
 

Beemer533

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Since you apparently already know how to build and more importantly know how you're going to build this shed, why bother asking for advice. Seems like this is just trolling.
Really? I'm on tapatalk so I can't see your post count, but are you not familiar with the concept of a build thread?

The concept is simple; a person documents their project and along the way sometimes solicits advice or opinions (sometimes folks provide it whether it is needed or not) about various aspects of his/her project.

If this qualifies as trolling then 99% of the threads here would probably need to be shut down..

I don't think one can troll their own thread anyway!

Good grief.

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D45

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Before I screw around (or screw up) the front entrance area with the header and cutting the siding panels, I am going to install the 7/16 OSB roofing and lay down some fresh
1/2" PT plywood on the floor inside the shed.

This way I will be able accurately measure and cut for the header

Hope to get all that done this weekend

I am having a metal roofing company come Tuesday for an estimate......just for shits and giggles to see how much it would cost
 

Beemer533

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Metal for the shed? I thought about doing it on mine but I just ended up with some architectural shingles.. Metal probably would have been better as my shed is under a bunch of trees..

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D45

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Yeah its a thin gauge metal........but it is ribbed with alternating small ridges and taller ridges

It looks pretty cool, and seamless

They have a large trailer and metal brake they drive out to the job site
 
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D45

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I would think I could roof it with shingles for $150ish?

Tar paper, nails, shingles

I would consider the metal roof if its $500
 

Beemer533

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I can't remember how much shingles were per bundle, but that sounds close. Don't forget to add drip edge to your price though.

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D45

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I got a TON done on the shed this weekend

I bought 4 sheets (4x8) of 1/2" PT plywood for the flooring and used about 250 screws to secure it down to the studs, right through the 5/8" PT plywood subfloor

The floor is ROCK solid now, very happy
 
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D45

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I also bought 5 sheets (4x8) of 7/16" OSB and got the roof all sheathed

I left a 1/2"-3/4" gap in the roof peak, so that I will be able to install a ridge vent of some sort, which will help with the interior temps

This week, I will be installing the rear upper portion of the siding, extending up to the gambrel truss, and the drip edge where the siding sections meet

I will also be measuring and installing the door header, and installing the front entrance siding and upper siding portion extending up to the gambrel truss.....and the front drip edge where the siding sections meet
 
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D45

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Then I will need to install the roll up door, which I found some nice colors at:

http://www.idealdoorgaragedoors.com/

They sent me some color samples too

I will then need to lay down some roof felt paper and get the roof shingled, so it remains DRY inside

Then some corner trim and misc odds and ends.......hopefully ALL DONE by October 1
 
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D45

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Yeah, the product they sell and install is very impressive, but there is noway I would spend that much

If it were $600 I was going to get it...........instead, I will relearn how to lay shingles
 
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D45

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I need to figure out how many bundles of shingles I will need.....any help?

The two outer/lower sides of the gambrel roof are 46"x12'

The two upper sides of the gambrel roof are 38"x12'

Of course, I want alittle bit of the shingle to lay over the side walls and over the front/bad walls

I get about 168 square feet of roof, so I round up to 170?

I then add 10% for waste, which comes to 187 square feet.....so lets round up to 180 to play it safe?

3 bundles typically cover around 95-100 square feet......so 5 bundles sound right? or 6 to play it safe?

What about felt underlayment? What # rating do I need or what should I get? Felt will suffice right?
 
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Beemer533

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Sounds like your calculations are correct... You can double check them here: http://www.owenscorning.com/roofing/basics/how-much-do-you-need/

Realistically though, you can always return an unopened bundle.. I'd rather have extra around than have to stop and go get more.

For underlayment, I went with 30# felt as I had some lying around from another project. 15# is probably fine though.

If I remember, they are they same price at HD, so I don't think it matters much.
 
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D45

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Thanks.....I just did not know what the pound rating for the felt meant, other than being heavier in weight
 
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D45

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Thanks...........well, I am now in the very early stages of researching metal roof installation

Yes, I still might do it.....but try to do it myself

I can get these panels from a local steel supply business, they will also cut them to length
 

Basstracker34

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Then I will need to install the roll up door, which I found some nice colors at:

http://www.idealdoorgaragedoors.com/

They sent me some color samples too

I will then need to lay down some roof felt paper and get the roof shingled, so it remains DRY inside

Then some corner trim and misc odds and ends.......hopefully ALL DONE by October 1

We got our roll up door on sale at menards. Same ideal brand.
 

theoldwizard1

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Thanks...........well, I am now in the very early stages of researching metal roof installation

Yes, I still might do it.....but try to do it myself

I can get these panels from a local steel supply business, they will also cut them to length

There are several different styles of metal roof panels. Mots use some kind of a clip to hold them in place. It there is any through nailing it is covered by another panel (I would still put a spot of caulk on it.) I would also use stainless steel nails or at least hot dipped galvanized. You don't want rust stains.

The knee in your gambrel roof could be tricky. Checking into the best way to handle it.
 
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D45

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Metal roof is out, I will just lay some shingles and save money

Ok, so 30# felt paper I will need to cover the enter roof.......what is the preferred method to secure the paper? Staples or nails?

I want to install a ridge vent also on the top peak.............any tips here?

Other than shingles and nails, anything else I will need?
 

Beemer533

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Get a couple of these for your vent:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GAF-Cobr...-Vent-in-Black-2018000/202052410?N=5yc1vZc4mr

They just get covered by cut shingles. You will need longer roofing nails for this though. This matches pretty nicely since you are covering it with matching shingles..

For my shed, I used this model that is 10' long and doesn't get covered...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-10-ft-Aluminum-Ridge-Vent-in-Black-AR10BL/100001245
Additionally you just need the end caps for it.

You can use regular length roofing nails with it. Some folks complain that it fades after a while, but since mine is surrounded by trees, I don't have that issue to date... Your's seems pretty open, so the first option might be better for you..

Just make sure that you have about an 1" gap in your roof sheathing at the ridge to allow the air to escape. I forgot to cut them to length on the ground, so I just used my cordless circular saw to cut a .5" strip off the top of both sides of the roof sheathing.

The GAF instructions illustrate it pretty well.

Just use a stapler to hold down the tar paper until you roof over it.. The hammer staplers make this a lot faster, but for a small area like this, it isn't worth buying one if you don't have it...

Don't forget drip edge!
 
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D45

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I installed the 5/8" brown zchannel drip edge, with a bead of clear silicon under the channel and I put down another bead when I installed the siding

I have the rear and both side paneled with the siding

I had to take about an hour installed 3 vertical 2x4s boards on the first front and last rear truss, so that I could attach the upper portions of the siding

I will get the front header board cut and installed and get the front side paneled next weekend

Hopefully, then I can buy some drip edge for the roof, #30 felt, and get it shingled

Then just some minor interior loft construction and I will be done, along with getting the roll up brown door installed

Goal is to get done by October 5
 

Beemer533

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Little by little! I actually still have some small stuff I need to get done on my shed, so I think you are doing pretty well!

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D45

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When I am installing the #30 paper and the ridge vent..........

I would assume I do not paper under the ridge vent, because it would block the air flow

Do I install the ridge vent first and then the paper up the ridge vent or can I just roll and lay the paper right over and across the ridge vent?
 

Beemer533

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It does, sorry I didn't clarify; once the shingles are all down, you install the ridgevent on top, then that gets covered by shingles you cut yourself or by pre cut...

This assumes that you are using this style of vent...

Here is a good picture...
gallery1-5_zpsbdfxwd6e.jpg
 
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D45

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Entry door header installed.....double set of 2x4s should be plenty, since it is just framing for the entry rollup and nothing will be hanging off of it

I frame it for 4x7 opening ...........then it poured all day

Under the wire and 2 weeks away from my deadline

Saturday I will plan an all day event, hopefully getting the entire (and last remaining side) paneled with the drop edge installed

I am having a local business custom bend some aluminum to protect the exposed 2x4s around the opening

Then, it is roofing time and finishing up the interior lofts
 
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