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Shelves

edl

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Jan 29, 2006
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809
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Southeast, US
what would be the most economical way to build shelves - would want the shelves anywhere from 18 to 24 inches - - shelving should be able to support 100lbs at any one point - i was thinking about L brackets and plywood - other thoughts? - maybe triangular braces? different wood? steel wire from outer corner back up to wall?

Tools question: whatever the solution - what would be the best kind of saw for this job - miter saw (sliding or radial?); table saw?

thanks!
 
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JCJ

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Mar 26, 2006
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Ohio
Here is my solution. White MDF so they look decent and clean easily. Inexpensive. Hold plenty of weight. The corner above the welding equipment is almost all steel storage. The brackets are on every wall stud (16") and cost .79. Works for me.
 

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bmwpower

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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4821

Just built a set of shelves with some help from the guys here. The brackets I went with were around $6/piece from Lowe's and hold 1000lbs. per pair.

Very happy with the end result.

You'll need a table saw to rip the MDF/wood and a mitre saw or circular saw to cut the wood to length.
 
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edl

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Messages
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Southeast, US
bmwpower said:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4821

Just built a set of shelves with some help from the guys here. The brackets I went with were around $6/piece from Lowe's and hold 1000lbs. per pair.

Very happy with the end result.

You'll need a table saw to rip the MDF/wood and a mitre saw or circular saw to cut the wood to length.


Many thanks for all of the advice. Bought the miter saw at harbor freight>>>
 
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edl

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Jan 29, 2006
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Southeast, US
edl said:
Many thanks for all of the advice. Bought the miter saw at harbor freight>>>
built the shelves this past weekend - ended up buying closetmaid head rail/hanging slotted verticals from Lowes - then coupled these with nickel finished brackets from HD (much cheaper than those that were designed for that system from Lowes) - then bought 4x8 MDS sheets and cut the shelves to length - a few 8x20s for upper storage (rarely used) and 12" for the rest - each store had a bunch of hooks and other storage gadgets - it worked out very well.

thanks,
stephen
 

Brad54

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Jun 13, 2006
Messages
4,646
If you want that kind of weight capacity, I'd suggest stand-alone steel shelving. I scored A BUNCH of commercial-grade stock room shelves from a store at the mall that was going out of business. I've loaded them up really heavy. They have metal frames that knock together, with fairly heavy press-board (not MDF, not particle board) shelves. I think I got 6 of them (8 feet tall) for $80. Don't remember for sure, and don't want to run out into the shop, the basement and the garage to count them up! I painted the shelves with two coats of gloss white paint to seal them, making grease and oil less likely to absorb.
One down-side: The store I got them from was a candle shop--all kinds of sceneted candles. So every now and then, when the temp is right, the back corner of my shop smells like the shop was done by the Queer Eye for the Straight Guy crew!

After I got those shelves and loaded them up with parts, I scored some mid-duty industrial shelving. It's deeper than the stock room shelves, but I have TONS of weight on it. Maybe literally! Three manual transmissions (two iron cases), a set of small block cylinder heads, about a dozen 12-inch finned aluminum brake drums (20lbs each), some control arms, three aluminum intake manifolds, a '54 Buick radiator and shroud, a flywheel, and the list goes on. And on.

Like I said, they're deeper than I'd want in a garage/shop, but with them being as deep as they are, I can roll engines under them front-to-back, so I'm making the most of any floor space lost.

If you shop around at industrial places, you can often find used pallet racks and industrial/light industrial grade shelving at very good prices, and many times the heavy duty units can be had in narrower depths, too (18 inches deep is what I prefer).

Hope this helps a little.
-Brad
 
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