To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Shop Ceiling

drakebuster43

New member
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
2
He guys I am looking for ideas on what to use for closing in the ceiling of my shop. I would like to use something lightweight. I have a 24w x 30D shop with 12 foot walls. Thanks for any ideas!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

TonkaJoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
410
Location
Southern ON, Canada
I went with corrugated steel, not the super thick stuff either.. I have a really high ceiling and simply strapped it first then laid the steel down. Really brightens everything up nicely, easy to clean and it looks great.. give my build thread a read for pictures.

There are tons of other options out there as well.. drywall, steel, plywood, tongue and groove pine, drop ceiling, vinyl siding, barn board, board and batten, the possibilities are endless, all comes down to what suits your needs.!

Try to Google some of these different ideas under "images" but type Garage journal after.. ie) " Board and batten ceiling Garage journal" and you will find pictures from this site, simply click the picture to read the threads!. Saves using the search engine on here sometimes if you can't find the results you'd like. :thumbup:

My build thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306497
 

Brian80

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
112
Location
Pennsylvania
I agree with Joe, corrugated metal would be your best solution. My building supply company has a corrugated Metal Liner product available. Its 28 gauge, so weight will be at a minimum. I have scissor trusses @ 48" OC. so weight distribution is a key factor
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
I used 1.5" fiberglass covered foam insulation boards pulled from a commercial building. just screwed to the trusses with long drywall screws and large fender washers.

but I know a guy that scoured CL for months picking up end lots of leftover soffit material from various construction jobs. did his entire 24x36 garage ceiling with soffit! looks really good, was easy to do, and was cheap.

just a couple ideas...
 

MScott

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Messages
1,616
Location
Eastern Ontario
There was a picture on here where someone used foil covered foam sheets to cover a ceiling. They were simply screwed to the rafters using large washers. Very light weight and the reflective surface would be great for lighting. The sheets come in 4 x 8 or 4 x 9. I am seriously considering this for my ceiling.
 

wnstwolf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2007
Messages
837
Location
New York and PA
-----^^^^^------
I used the foil foam insulation. Great look a little insulation factor reflective but real issue was weight. Having done a few drywall ceilings this foam board product is a true DIY job with little fuss. The stuff is realativly cheap and pre finished. Use the foil tape at the seams and your done.
 

James-W

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
There was a picture on here where someone used foil covered foam sheets to cover a ceiling. They were simply screwed to the rafters using large washers. Very light weight and the reflective surface would be great for lighting. The sheets come in 4 x 8 or 4 x 9. I am seriously considering this for my ceiling.
That sounds like a really good idea. Would be easy to install too.
 

GAR64

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
107
Location
Upstate NY
I went with the metal. So far, I really like it. It is 29 gage installed on 2' spaced trusses. I won't argue against drywall because I think it looks great too but more work.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20151129_073608.jpg
    IMG_20151129_073608.jpg
    131.6 KB · Views: 207

kj_mustang

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,212
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
White metal installed on 4' spaced trusses.

DSC07049.JPG
 

icenfire01

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
445
Location
South Dakota
Another vote for Steel. Just put mine up on Sun. Soooooo easy to put up and done, no mudding, sanding, painting, ect.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,854
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Part of my garage has OSB painted white and foil faced rigid polyISO over the work benches. I put metal up in the house garage.

Knowing what I know now, I wish I would have used metal in my garage ceiling also.

1/2" Foil faced


7/16" OSB


white metal panels
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

mike_dmt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2015
Messages
182
Location
Spokane Washington
My question would be the amount of echo in a shop with a metal ceiling. More? Not that it's not a fine idea. Seems like it would be super easy to throw up, and fairly inexpensive.

I sheeted the walls and lid of my 32x38 shop with 9' ceilings with 7/16" OSB and painted it white.

My wife did go around and caulk any gaps, just to make it pretty when we painted.
 

mjoekingz28

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
717
Location
Mississippi
lakeroadster, how ever do you get around the perimeter of the car while in the air?

Do you just walk underneath it and forget about doing any break work? It looks like you dont even have enough room to take the tires off
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
[QUOTE...Steel.... what's up with the infatuation with steel panels inside garages here on the GJ? Quonset Hut Itis? :spit:[/QUOTE]

part of it is that it is lightweight and can easily be done by one person and no finishing/mudding/taping/painting/trimming is necessary. fairly quick and easy, and looks finished as soon as it is screwed up. also, like my insulation board, you can take a panel down to get up in the rafters if needed. drywall is a bit more permanent, and wood tends to be a pretty heavy load on the trusses...
 

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
lakeroadster, how ever do you get around the perimeter of the car while in the air?

Do you just walk underneath it and forget about doing any break work? It looks like you dont even have enough room to take the tires off

You mean "brake" work? :dunno:

I rotate tires frequently & do brake work, shocks, replace leaf springs, etc. It actually works quite well.



 
Last edited:

JunkYardDawg

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Messages
76
Location
Maine
Building code around here demands that 1" thickness of sheetrock must line the interior of any garage that is attached to aa dwelling. My house was built before that code was established, so currently my garage is lined with white-painted OSB. If I ever sold it, I would have to reline everything with sheetrock, but now I am wondering what they'd say about corrugated sheet steels?

I've been thinking about building a detached 2-car garage with a loft and just up the street there's a piece of property with a detached two-car garage, with loft, etc, AND a bathroom... for$25k. Golly, that's what I would pay for just a building here on my property, so I'll definitely be looking into getting that. This thread is good because I'll have to do some renovations there and lining the garage walls will be a priority.
 

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
Building code around here demands that 1" thickness of sheetrock must line the interior of any garage that is attached to aa dwelling.

You bring up a good point. I think you will find that the building code specifies a firewall between the home and the garage... which drywall accomplishes.

i mention this because it may be moe cost effective for you, instead of re-doing your ceiling, to install drywall on the truss that separates the home from the attached garage.
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
1" sheetrock? that must be damn heavy. around here code is only 5/8" for garage with abutting walls/roof....
 

All

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
606
I use pegboard.

1. Pre painted white for light reflection.

2. Pre perforated holes for ventilation,

3. Peg board oles also disrupt and absorb sound waves, like the holes in acoustic tiles.

4. Not to mention the fact that hooks can modified and used in the holes to hang stuff.

5. The top surface of the peg board provides a small attic to store light stuff.

6. The peg board panels, like hard board, are thin and flexible enough to bend between the chords of the pre fab trusses.

7. One man job... easier than drywall to handle alone, and lighter than OSB or plywood, which generally run thicker.

8. No taping, jointing, sanding, painting, or endless screwing all the way around. The horizontal chords of the trusses remain exposed. The peg board sheets just lay on top of them.

9. No risk of denting panels. Steel looks beautiful. Dented steel? Not so much.

10. Cheap. At least it was cheap when I did this 30 years ago. Haven't priced pegboard lately.
 

csp

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
i mention this because it may be moe cost effective for you, instead of re-doing your ceiling, to install drywall on the truss that separates the home from the attached garage.

Exactly! Creating a fire resistant separation between the home and garage doesn't have to mean the entire ceiling or interior of the garage has to have fire rated drywall.
 

INTMD8

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
314
Location
Lake Villa Il.
Steel.... what's up with the infatuation with steel panels inside garages here on the GJ? Quonset Hut Itis? :spit:

It's light, fireproof, reflective and I like the way it looks. Easy to remove a panel if you need access and can be ordered in lengths to go floor to ceiling in one shot (like the back wall here).

F355oilchange_zpsber0xkm5.jpg
 

mike_dmt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2015
Messages
182
Location
Spokane Washington
It's light, fireproof, reflective and I like the way it looks. Easy to remove a panel if you need access and can be ordered in lengths to go floor to ceiling in one shot (like the back wall here).

F355oilchange_zpsber0xkm5.jpg



What. The. Hell..

That's like a museum. You better put those cars back before they notice.

While not my style of workspace, that's one you could operate in. Get it? Operate?
 

glider

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
2,413
Location
Flint Michigan
Getting ready to do the metal ceiling and new lights. The metal looks clean and it is instant gratification at 14'.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0104MA31523800-0001.jpg
    IMG_0104MA31523800-0001.jpg
    136 KB · Views: 117

mjoekingz28

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
717
Location
Mississippi
lol lakeroadster, I really dont know how brake went as break? I notice it alot yet never thought it would happen to me. :)


I see now it is not so bad. I thought being unable to walk around the posts would really hinder things.
 

mjoekingz28

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
717
Location
Mississippi
I use pegboard.

1. Pre painted white for light reflection.

2. Pre perforated holes for ventilation,

3. Peg board oles also disrupt and absorb sound waves, like the holes in acoustic tiles.

4. Not to mention the fact that hooks can modified and used in the holes to hang stuff.

5. The top surface of the peg board provides a small attic to store light stuff.

6. The peg board panels, like hard board, are thin and flexible enough to bend between the chords of the pre fab trusses.

7. One man job... easier than drywall to handle alone, and lighter than OSB or plywood, which generally run thicker.

8. No taping, jointing, sanding, painting, or endless screwing all the way around. The horizontal chords of the trusses remain exposed. The peg board sheets just lay on top of them.

9. No risk of denting panels. Steel looks beautiful. Dented steel? Not so much.

10. Cheap. At least it was cheap when I did this 30 years ago. Haven't priced pegboard lately.


I like your pegboard idea very much! Pegboard
I think it is $8 for a 5'X8'. Isnt that the size of a sheet/panel?

lakeroadster, what is that Eaton on the back wall. I know someone who is probably about to end a 35 or so year career with them (actually it started as Vickers).
 

G McKay

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
6,849
Location
In the garage in Bremerton
My problem is that I have a metal roof. (The whole building is metal) It has 2 1/2 inch metal beams every five feet apart. It sweats so bad in the winter from having frost on the ceiling. I have to cover the cars with plastic tarps. I finished the walls with wood siding, but the ceiling is still just the roof.

I'd like to hang metal sheathing underneath but if I put insulation in between, I'm afraid that it would be moldy from moisture. This happened where I used to work. The buildings that were built back in the 1960s were metal and they just tacked 8" insulation to the underside of the roof. 40 years later the insulation start to come loose and falling to the floor and was covered with black mold. We realized that everyone had been breathing this stuff all those years. :shocking:

So I am leery about putting insulation between two layers of metal because of the roof freezing in the winter. So, I will probably just put the metal sheathing up for a roof with no insulation.

The walls aren't insulated because of this reason and I don't heat it in the winter anyway. So, I don't have much choice at this point.

:dunno:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom