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Shop Corner Loft?

summit151

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Jul 24, 2013
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Hey Guys so I am looking to put a small loft in the corner of my shop. The walls are currently 12.6' I would like to place it in the corner of the shop you can see in the picture. My question is do I run 2 boards and secure them to the wall and run 2x6 with metal support brackets like a Simpson strong tie? And have 1 support beam attached to the concrete we're the 2 2x6 meet at the corner ? Any help or ideas please IMG_1857.JPG


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bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
How do you plan to support it?

How big will it be? Will it have a column at the corner or will a beam clear span the shop?

How big is the shop?

What will it support?

Bill
 
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extropic

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Kalama, WA
Are you talking about a triangular or rectangular loft? How much weight do you intend it to support?
 
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summit151

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I was thinking the loft will be roughly 10x13. With it being 10ft it shouldn't be near the heater. To support it I'm thinking on putting a ledger board on both the walls and 1 4x4 bolted to the cement at the corner of the 2x6 frame. I'm just looking to store random stuff up there that doesn't need to be on the floor of the shop. I can't see there being more then 500LBS up there


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tjdux

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While you're building why not span the whole shop? Storage space always gets eaten up over time.

What about 12x12 ft to make the plywood more even used? Or 8x16? Plan on 3/4 inch t&g deck?

It looks like there's a good bit of electric in that wall.. be careful putting in lag bolts.. sounds like your plan should be ok for that amount of weight spread out pretty good. Use something like a 2x10 or 2x12 and for the ledger board that way you can get more lag bolts in it. If there's any chance you may want to put something really heavy up there maybe add an extra joist or 2 near where the ledger walls are. Never know when you will want to store and engine block or something.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703
 
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summit151

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Thanks for the suggestions. I thought about running the length of the shop but that heater runs about 20 feet of that one wall and I like to park my pick up in that bay of the shop and it is taller then 6 ft


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bigcreek

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Idaho
I am currently building a loft in my shop. As can be seen in the pictures I lagged two 12 foot 2x8's into the studs across the wall of the shop. I put more lags than was necessary but better more than less in my book. I then used simpson hangars screwed to the 2x8's. I have 14' eaves and am building this loft 24' wide x 12' deep and is 7' from floor to bottom of loft and a little over 6' from top of loft floor to ceiling of shop. joists are 12" on center.
 

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dmcintosh

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I didn't do a loft, but instead framed in a small room in the corner of my 24 x 30. In my case, I liked the separate space, as it will hold the compressor, a few bikes and my yard tools.
 

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tjdux

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I am currently building a loft in my shop. As can be seen in the pictures I lagged two 12 foot 2x8's into the studs across the wall of the shop. I put more lags than was necessary but better more than less in my book. I then used simpson hangars screwed to the 2x8's. I have 14' eaves and am building this loft 24' wide x 12' deep and is 7' from floor to bottom of loft and a little over 6' from top of loft floor to ceiling of shop. joists are 12" on center.
Hey odd question buy why not put the support posts on the "inside" of the loft?

Thats a nice looking shop by the way with some pretty fun looking tools.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703
 

DCarr2

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I plan to do something similar myself.

Would it be advantagous to put 4x6 posts along the walls in addition to the ledger board?
 

bigcreek

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Idaho
Hey odd question buy why not put the support posts on the "inside" of the loft?

Thats a nice looking shop by the way with some pretty fun looking tools.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

oh no good reason really. Could have but didn't think about it I guess. Either way was fine. Both ways get the job done but I suppose the inside way would look a little better.
 
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summit151

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So what would the weight capacity be with 2 2x6 ledger boards and 2x6 spaced 12 inches apart for the floor truss with 3/4 plywood on top and 1 8x8 support post going to the concrete


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theoldwizard1

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So what would the weight capacity be with 2 2x6 ledger boards and 2x6 spaced 12 inches apart for the floor truss with 3/4 plywood on top and 1 8x8 support post going to the concrete ?

This is the correct way to ask the question, but it is hard to answer.

First, we need to establish the weight carrying capacity. 30 pounds per square foot (live load) would probably be a minimum number. 10x13x3900 = pounds. Building to less than that leaves you open to future lawsuits.

The problem with lag bolting ledgers to the wall is there is TOO MANY VARIABLES ! What size lag ? What size pilot hole ? How deep does the lag go ? The simple solution is, install the ledger, but run some 2x4 laid flat against the wall from under the ledger down to the floor over each stud (16" O.C.). Either use PT of have to bottom sit on a piece of PT.

Checking the SYP Span Table, if the joists are going to be 10', you can use 2x6s 16" O.C for joists. Your corner post can be a 4x4 or 6x6, but the joist either have to rest ON TOP or be NOTCHED IN to the post. You can probably use 5/8" plywood. Same tables says if your use 2x8, you can go 24" O.C. I would go back to the 3/4" plywood and you will need blocking under the plywood seams.
 
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summit151

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This is the correct way to ask the question, but it is hard to answer.

First, we need to establish the weight carrying capacity. 30 pounds per square foot (live load) would probably be a minimum number. 10x13x3900 = pounds. Building to less than that leaves you open to future lawsuits.

The problem with lag bolting ledgers to the wall is there is TOO MANY VARIABLES ! What size lag ? What size pilot hole ? How deep does the lag go ? The simple solution is, install the ledger, but run some 2x4 laid flat against the wall from under the ledger down to the floor over each stud (16" O.C.). Either use PT of have to bottom sit on a piece of PT.

Checking the SYP Span Table, if the joists are going to be 10', you can use 2x6s 16" O.C for joists. Your corner post can be a 4x4 or 6x6, but the joist either have to rest ON TOP or be NOTCHED IN to the post. You can probably use 5/8" plywood. Same tables says if your use 2x8, you can go 24" O.C. I would go back to the 3/4" plywood and you will need blocking under the plywood seams.



Ok thanks for explaining it better. I'm not carpenter by trade lol. (Mechanic). I like the idea of running the 2x4 against the walls for support. I was thinking of using a 8x8 because I was thinking of doubling up the 2x6 so basically a 4x6 on the outer edge of the frame and notching the 8x8 to support the frame. Would I can any strength by doubling the outer edge up? I see a lot of decks have it doubled


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M35A2

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Have you thought about using pallet racking for a loft? Worked great for me and the weight rating is great. Each section is 10' wide x 12' deep. Total cost for the brand new racking was $1425.
 

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summit151

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Have you thought about using pallet racking for a loft? Worked great for me and the weight rating is great. Each section is 10' wide x 12' deep. Total cost for the brand new racking was $1425.



That is a good idea. Looks clean and organized. Do you just use a ladder each time you go up ? How do you lift stuff up onto it ?


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M35A2

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I use the 4 post lift. During the winter I store my sandrail up on one which is in the pic and the Watercraft on a double trailer on the other, then during summer the sleds all go up there. If you go this route, you can find used racking on Craigslist but in my case, I found brand new cheaper because of discounts based on the dollar amount spent.
 

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summit151

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Ok thanks for explaining it better. I'm not carpenter by trade lol. (Mechanic). I like the idea of running the 2x4 against the walls for support. I was thinking of using a 8x8 because I was thinking of doubling up the 2x6 so basically a 4x6 on the outer edge of the frame and notching the 8x8 to support the frame. Would I can any strength by doubling the outer edge up? I see a lot of decks have it doubled


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Hey guys. Looking to build my loft today and still wondering if I should double up the outer edge with 2 2x6 the part that will span over the shop floor and go to the 8x8 support in the middle. I am worried that one 2x6 will sag over time with weight on it


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summit151

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Project up date. I decided to go with a 8x12' loft with a 6x6 as a support in the corner 63864772ef6d6395a2923f5698f72f53.jpge05f79836d1f4ded3d1fb3c1ec93c458.jpg 689fe3fd1eb196590e2c3186903b2a67.jpg


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wilkrod

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Jan 29, 2014
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Howdy,
I did the same thing in my 30' X 40' shop.
2X6 ledger laged to the oposing walls with vertical 2X6 at each end of the ledgers laged to the wall. 6X6 bolted to the floor for the free standing corner.
6X6 16" O.C. for the floor joists, using simpson hangers. 3/4 plywood for the floor, added blocking between joists. Only 8' X 8' so didn't go crazy with overkill.
Regards
Jeff
 

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summit151

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Howdy,

I did the same thing in my 30' X 40' shop.

2X6 ledger laged to the oposing walls with vertical 2X6 at each end of the ledgers laged to the wall. 6X6 bolted to the floor for the free standing corner.

6X6 16" O.C. for the floor joists, using simpson hangers. 3/4 plywood for the floor, added blocking between joists. Only 8' X 8' so didn't go crazy with overkill.

Regards

Jeff



That looks awesome in the corner. I just added some railing on mine. But had to leave adequate clearance for the heater e4e89367b66a27909c84f30fe9d22f74.jpg


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Garagetime

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Here's what I built it's full length of garage 4 feet wide 4 feet down from ceiling. Garage is 26x32 with 12 foot 8 ceiling.
 

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