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Shop made forklift attachments thread

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Oregon rock crusher

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You may just be onto a plan with the "guest house" idea s&a... :) You are definitely right about our time with the young kids and grand kids being cherished time and way to short. If there is one thing that will put a stop to any of my projects it's a visit from any of them. All seven of mine are under the age of six and three are under one. Magical times when they are so fun to be around and everything is new....might have to put off the cannon projects for a few years though. :) Ed.
 

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86turbodsl

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What's the purpose of the rolling container? Just to get your yard back? No judgement, just curious.
 
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Thanks for the question turbo. I only brought the container in a year or so ago to hold a bunch of shop equipment so I could do a remodel and add a wood shop. (pics a couple pages back) I had to clear out quite a bit of valuable yard space right in front of the fab shop opening to place it and really wanted that space back. Only reason to add wheels and roll it was so the forklift could move it. If I had a big crane I would have went that route. Now instead of taking up space the container actually helps make more. I already had everything to make the stand so it was a good solution for me as well as the kind of project I enjoy taking on. Ed.
 
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Thanks zk, one side benefit of the move was I had a much better idea how to load it the second time and still have access to the back so I can see what I've got in there and retrieve it. Ed.
 
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I took advantage of a few days off and added a retaining wall, a couple benches, and a partial deck in the space under the container. The big bench with the punch plate top is a little high for most work but is large enough to crawl up on it and use it as a weld jig. The small deck takes advantage of the slope for added storage and is framed with some pallet beams. A hand rail and a few steps give easy access to the mid deck. It is just high enough I can hang things off the bottom of the container frame. I added a tote for catching gutter run off because it was easy. Still a work in progress but just a bunch of scrap iron welded into a work space really. I do like working down there so far though as it gets a light breeze and is mostly shaded. Ed.
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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Thanks Gunnar. It's been a couple years since I worked on this under container space. I did hang a bunch of chains and rigging under the container since then. There is also a full stack of plywood sitting on the punch plate under cover and out of the way for the winter. I do still get quite a bit of use out of the lift attachments in this thread. Always something to do around here. Ed.
 

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Nice receiver hitch and winch modifications Muckin Slusher. Moving trailers around is pretty easy with a lift and in the mud and snow that skid steer looks handy too. Winch could come in handy as well. Looks good. Ed.
 

jblnut

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2 inch receiver on bobcat. Doesn't interfere with boom or attachments even with a triball hitch in it. Also found a spot on the boom for a winch.

P5042471.JPGP5042472.JPGP5042473.JPGPB233341.JPG
Slick stuff !!

Any idea what the balls and extra pockets on the quick attach plate were for ? Backhoe maybe ?

Never gave thought to welding a tube to the QA plate. Not a horrid idea !!
 

Muckin_Slusher

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Slick stuff !!

Any idea what the balls and extra pockets on the quick attach plate were for ? Backhoe maybe ?

Never gave thought to welding a tube to the QA plate. Not a horrid idea !!
The balls beside the cab are attached to the frame of the machine and are for the backhoe attachment. Used trailer couplers to transfer the force straight to the frame rather than beating up the boom.

Pockets? Do you mean the access panels at the bottom? Those are to wash the mud out of the footwells.
 

Muckin_Slusher

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Slick stuff !!

Any idea what the balls and extra pockets on the quick attach plate were for ? Backhoe maybe ?

Never gave thought to welding a tube to the QA plate. Not a horrid idea !!
Every chassis is different. This is what I did on my New Holland. See the receiver bolted on the square cross bar? It's awesome being able to move trailers and see exactly what's going on.

P3100391.jpg
 

jblnut

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The balls beside the cab are attached to the frame of the machine and are for the backhoe attachment. Used trailer couplers to transfer the force straight to the frame rather than beating up the boom.

Pockets? Do you mean the access panels at the bottom? Those are to wash the mud out of the footwells.
I had a 763 Bobcat with a Bobcat backhoe and it had large brackets on the sides of the machine that the backhoe attached to. Never seen one with trailer hitch balls before.

The “pockets” I was referring to are here ….. must be more backhoe stuff ?
P5042473.JPG



Every chassis is different. This is what I did on my New Holland. See the receiver bolted on the square cross bar? It's awesome being able to move trailers and see exactly what's going on.

P3100391.jpg
I built a mover deal a while back and recently revamped it to be able to hold up to the abuse my S300 can inflict on it. I shoved a solid chunk k of round bar in the tubing this time.
IMG_0014.jpeg

Abuse such as picking up the front of a very cold tractor and shoving it in the shop to warm up.
IMG_0484.jpeg
 

Muckin_Slusher

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I had a 763 Bobcat with a Bobcat backhoe and it had large brackets on the sides of the machine that the backhoe attached to. Never seen one with trailer hitch balls before.

The “pockets” I was referring to are here ….. must be more backhoe stuff ?
P5042473.JPG




I built a mover deal a while back and recently revamped it to be able to hold up to the abuse my S300 can inflict on it. I shoved a solid chunk k of round bar in the tubing this time.


Abuse such as picking up the front of a very cold tractor and shoving it in the shop to warm up.
Cool. That works.

About the pockets. I never noticed those before, but I see what you mean. Looks like something should drop into those slots. I'll have a look around and see what I can find.
 
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My small mixing barrel use to be a bear to relocate during a pour. I was using a hand truck to move it around but it tried to kill me a couple of times as it was so top heavy and ungainly. I added fork pockets to the base and a swivel lock and now I don't dread those small pours.

I mixed several bags this morning while working on a shed and took a couple of pics. The ability to easily move the mixer, along with the flat plate with pockets to lift the bags to barrel height, pouring mix is now much easier. Having a cheerful assistant to help with finishing is plenty helpful as well.
 

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I had to cut some oak on the edge of a high bank that was undermined, leaning badly, and would likely fall into the creek this winter. Limbs and trunks would land about 20' down a steep bank when cut where access isn't possible. To retrieve them I figured if I could get a couple guides on the forklift for a cable I could make a high lead set up using my PU as a yarder to haul the oak up the bank. Once the load gets pulled up the bank to end of the forks I could pull the haul line off after securing the load directly to the fork attachment. Then I'd be free to skid the log out of the way and repeat the process.

For fab work I took a wide channel that was left over from a truck frame job to make the two fork attachment. Fortunately I had a piece of scrap that came off a concrete paving machine that had sturdy cast dished wheels on each end which made the haul line guides an easy project. One guide for the front with a brace and large hook for load anchoring. Also a roller for the back of the Roll cage that just sits in place held by a couple clamps. Pics probably show this contraption in action better than I can describe it. Worked good....lift never tried to nose dive despite some pretty hard pulls. I'll fine tune it a little more, but this attachment is a keeper. Ed.
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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I found the man basket has come in really handy for moving wood from the woodlot to storage as well. Much easier than trying to get it into and then back out of the PU.
 

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dkmc

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After months and forgetting about this thread, I just got an email notice of activity on this thread.
Not an attachment, but a question. Recently acquired a Clark C500YS80, has side shift but not fork positioning.
Thought I'd inquire here, on the "think outta da box" forklift attachment thread..,,about any sort of clever way of
using the side shift function to also (help) position the forks? They are just heavy enough, that they are a bear to move dry,
but I'd rather not have to keep them and the carriage slathered with grease so they move easy.
So far, I have "piece of chain" stuck in my head, that would attach to a slotted bracket on top of each fork,
shift the carriage, fork stays still. The brackets I'm thinking of would have a vertical slot, that any link of the chain could slip into, depending on length needed. Bracket on each fork, and on each side of the carriage.

What say Ye ?

sm20240930_143122.jpg
 
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Fortunately, my forks are light enough to easily position but heavier forks do take a lot more effort. I can see your chain idea working dk. I'd probably first try welding bolts on either side of the forks about 6" from the top where the end link of the chain could slide over. On the sides no load interference or problems with the near side anchor hanging up when shifting the far fork. Anchor on top could rock the fork if the bottom didn't slide with the top.

Probably make the outer slotted adjustment out of bar stock that could hinge down from an extension from the carriage frame on a bolt to a stop at horizontal in use and cam over at top to be out of the way when not in use. On your lift those heavy fenders or light cages might make a better fixed point to hinge or slide the anchor arm from. From that perspective a longish bar with a chain hook placed in a pocket on the fender might give you all the leverage you need and be faster than relying on the side shift at all. Just a couple thoughts...I'd try it if I had the need. Ed.
 
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WoodsTruck

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Too bad there wasn't a way to mount something on the upper lateral support frame that had holes that you could slip a cheater bar into. Tip the mast forward to reduce the friction, insert the cheater bar on either side of the fork and side shift to slide, repeat on opposite side. Should work in both directions if the holes matched up on either side of the fork travel.
 

Muckin_Slusher

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After months and forgetting about this thread, I just got an email notice of activity on this thread.
Not an attachment, but a question. Recently acquired a Clark C500YS80, has side shift but not fork positioning.
Thought I'd inquire here, on the "think outta da box" forklift attachment thread..,,about any sort of clever way of
using the side shift function to also (help) position the forks? They are just heavy enough, that they are a bear to move dry,
but I'd rather not have to keep them and the carriage slathered with grease so they move easy.
So far, I have "piece of chain" stuck in my head, that would attach to a slotted bracket on top of each fork,
shift the carriage, fork stays still. The brackets I'm thinking of would have a vertical slot, that any link of the chain could slip into, depending on length needed. Bracket on each fork, and on each side of the carriage.

What say Ye ?

sm20240930_143122.jpg
Can you add a series of vertical bars behind the forks to give you a bunch of spots to pry against with a prybar?

Middle of the fork uprights is better, because if you're just moving them from the top they'll often jam.
 

dkmc

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Thanks for the replies! Plenty of good ideas to chew on for a bit.
I like the idea of a bar with holes to pry from. I wouldn't have a problem minimally welding such a bar to the carriage,
and better than any welding on the forks. Using the side shift would be a bit clumsy and involves multiple steps and
can't really see whats going on while moving the lever from the cab, even standing beside it. So prying from the front
is a better idea I think.
 
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Muckin_Slusher

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Thanks for the replies! Plenty of good ideas to chew on for a bit.
I like the idea of a bar with holes to pry from. I wouldn't have a problem minimally welding such a bar to the carriage,
and better than any welding on the forks. Using the side shift would be a bit clumsy and involves multiple steps and
can't really see whats going on while moving the lever from the cab, even standing beside it. So prying from the front
is a better idea I think.
Yeah, holes in a bar would work great, and you could put multiple horizontal rows of holes that are offset from each other, so as the fork travels sideways you'll always have a spot to pry from.
 

Tim in Indiana

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Weld a piece of E track between the outside uprights, behind the forks. You'll have a prying point every inch or two that way.

56752_W3.jpg
 

jblnut

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I found the man basket has come in really handy for moving wood from the woodlot to storage as well. Much easier than trying to get it into and then back out of the PU.
I really like the conveyor belting to keep the wood in !!

I made a few wood baskets out of pallet racking and think I’ll be making more for sure. I can stack these three high in the shed and they hold just shy of a cord each.
IMG_1178.jpeg
 

Steve from Socal

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Regarding fork position with side shift. I have a big Hyster that has side shift and I bought hydrauic cylinders to make fork positioners. The issue I have is, the carriage is split by vertical supports. The inner range is OK for pallets but the forks are too fat for many pallets. The outer area is great for machines and heavy lifts.

Anyway, the forks are on bars and weigh about 400 each. If I can get a fork on the ground with the bar loose, I can use the side shift to move the fork. Not sure about a fork on a rack but, same idea should apply. It is the big one in the pic!



IMG_4012a.jpg
 

Muckin_Slusher

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...lift never tried to nose dive despite some pretty hard pulls. I'll fine tune it a little more, but this attachment is a keeper. Ed.
The forces the forklift would be seeing in that situation look to be all within the footprint of the forklifts wheelbase.

You could pull as hard as you want and wouldn't tip that thing over (straight pulls only!)

I think you could pull so hard you would crush the boom/bend the forks and blow out the tires before it tipped over.
 
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Oregon rock crusher

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I really like the conveyor belting to keep the wood in !!

I made a few wood baskets out of pallet racking and think I’ll be making more for sure. I can stack these three high in the shed and they hold just shy of a cord each.
When I took the lift out with the basket I was using it to reach high limbs, with the wife driving, and threw the belt chunk on the deck so I could lay the saw down while moving. When it came time to move some wood it just happened to be handy to seal make a temporary wall. I like your pallet racking wood stacker too jblnut. I use similar for seasoning green wood for a year or two before hauling it to the wood shed.
The forces the forklift would be seeing in that situation look to be all within the footprint of the forklifts wheelbase.

You could pull as hard as you want and wouldn't tip that thing over (straight pulls only!)

I think you could pull so hard you would crush the boom/bend the forks and blow out the tires before it tipped over.
Good observations Muckin. The rear roller definitely helped keep the lift stable at the start of the pull, which was good because the yarder (PU), was pulling really hard to break the canopy free and I couldn't always position perfectly straight to the log. As the PU got further away the angle of the haul line put progressively less load on the rear roller to the point that when the turn reached the forks my haul back completely cleared the rear guide. Definitely need a straight pull but could still work in confined area with a block out front in line with the guide rollers.

My yarder operator (wife) had difficulty staying on line backing up, so rather that forcing the issue I was glad to find that as long as she could get sorta close, the pull still went fine. That despite the line riding up on the rear guide a few times, even as she got further away...I may add some guides that extend from the rollers a little higher but still leave the center open. Ed.
 
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Oregon rock crusher

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Here is a pic of my newest wood storage bins for use in the shop. These were bought at a Habitat store and were originally institutional laundry bins. They seem to be pretty tough. They also have heavy duty locking casters mounted to a steel base frame. I was going to make a rolling wood bin but these should work fine and were cheap.

Perfect for the shop as I can carry the bins with the lift to load up and get them into the door. No good place for a permanent wood stack inside so this lets me easily roll it around to get out of the way. Most the time one will sit in front of a big sliding door close to the stove. Only open wall space I've got left. Ed.
 

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drivesitfar

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I love your shop and your doings so always stopping in to see what's up. funny you have those firewood holders cause I had some old (maybe 70 years old +-) pallets that I used to store my firewood in. I won't need them any longer cause we will be turning our woodburning fireplace into a gas log soon. not sure if you can use any more or one of the members could use any, but I think I have 12 left that are about the size of a regular wood pallet.
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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I love your shop and your doings so always stopping in to see what's up. funny you have those firewood holders cause I had some old (maybe 70 years old +-) pallets that I used to store my firewood in. I won't need them any longer cause we will be turning our woodburning fireplace into a gas log soon. not sure if you can use any more or one of the members could use any, but I think I have 12 left that are about the size of a regular wood pallet.
Thanks Drives. Good looking firewood racks you have. Looks like they fit that inset space of your walls just right. I've been stacking wood in a variety of places for seasoning, moving most of it to the woodshed for use. Some will go to the shop but the bulk of it will go to heat the house. I plan to keep using wood heat for as long as I can still do it. Nothing feels the same as a good wood stove fire. Ed.
 

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36truck

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I used to heat with wood for decades now I just walk to the thermostat set it to what I want and forget about it. It took too much time & effort. I would rather be on a piece of heavy equipment making money.
 

Ton ton

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I had a 763 Bobcat with a Bobcat backhoe and it had large brackets on the sides of the machine that the backhoe attached to. Never seen one with trailer hitch balls before.

The “pockets” I was referring to are here ….. must be more backhoe stuff ?
P5042473.JPG




I built a mover deal a while back and recently revamped it to be able to hold up to the abuse my S300 can inflict on it. I shoved a solid chunk k of round bar in the tubing this time.
IMG_0014.jpeg

Abuse such as picking up the front of a very cold tractor and shoving it in the shop to warm up.
IMG_0484.jpeg
What do you have hooked to the rear of the tractor? The green version of a Poultry Housekeeper? Or is it a rock picker?
 
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