Shop made forklift attachments thread

[Oregon rock crusher]

Forklifts are to metal workers like Horses are to Cowboys. Except none of my forklifts have Rifle Slings on them. My collection of them make my job a lot easier almost every day.

Here's a boom I built from scrap. Would have built it a bit different if other material was used, but it's very handy as is....
I need to make a set of fork extensions someday.

That looks very useful dkmc. Making what you need from what you already have in the scrap pile seems to me to be the best use of resources possible. Every project I start begins with a trip to the scrap pile to see what's available and then I generally adapt the plan to fit the resource. Sometimes I do have to look through the local scrappy's or one of my capable friends yards to find something that will work though. Ed.

 

[pelletman]

I have a nice trailer mover. It's really like a fork extension that I've welded a hitch receiver to. I can put a drawbar with a ball in it and move trailers around - no problem with a single fork. I also have a drawbar with a hook on it for picking up chains or straps. I have a third drawbar that I welded a wheel hub on it with a pad - the pad can rotate - I pick up cars and move them with this. You simple put it under the car frame - lift one end of the car up, and push or pull the car.

Can you share pictures with us? Especially the car mover

 

[Strouty]

I just toss stuff on the back of Clark, my outside forklift.



Hope to remake my fork extensions so I can take some pictures.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Hell Strouty, your Clark's rear storage area is bigger than some apartment decks. Room for all sorts of "useful" **** to accumulate there. Ed

 

[lis2323]

Where’s the BBQ for your forklift’s rear patio deck, Strouty??

 

[Strouty]

I have a tool box I want to mount, but haven’t had the time. I figure I should probably put a windshield and door on it first.

 

[dutchgray]

We made a 20' wide man basket for the telehandler once, out of timber and the base of an old stillage box, was to install long feather edge cladding horizontally on a building, it was definitely not safety approved.
There is a home made normal sized man basket as well.
We have 2 sets of fork extensions, one about 5' and one 8', the short are channel with some bits of bar stock welded on and the long are just box section.
Everything else is commercially made, the extendable crane jib, the pallet forks on a frame that you lift by a chain that let you lower a pallet into a basement, the width adjusting cradle and forks set that can be very useful, the set of container chains (we can lift a 20' shipping container from the small side and move it around and it doesn't even need to be empty with the telehandler we have at work), a log splitter that you put on the forks and plug into the boom hydraulics, a pan mixer that will do a 3/4 cube concrete and a bale grab.
You also can not have to many chains, strops, slings, D links, hooks available.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Sounds like you have access to a lot of interesting attachments dutchgray. I don't think I've seen any thing like your basement delivery forks before. I do like the idea of being able to tap into the lift's hydraulics to drive a log splitter, mixing drum, or even a winch or other attachment. 20' width is a lot for a man basket. Not so bad though as long as everyone onboard doesn't head to one side. Ed.

 

[dutchgray]

The 20' man basket was seriously sketchy but we got the job done, it only sat on the forks and we tied it off to the carriage, so it would tip a couple foot if you went to the end.

 

[dutchgray]

View media item 98815The forks are hidden by all the leaves on the ground but go out the front under the arm, the lifting point is on a really big coil spring and runs up the arm as you lift so it remains some what balanced and level with different loads on it. We don't use it often, but every couple years or so its real handy to have. It normally takes lots of oil and a couple hours of extreme violence to get it all freed up when we do want it though. Most often we use it on a short chain on a large excavator boom, but it works fine chained to a telehandler carriage also.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Those must be the basement delivery forks dutchgray That's the thing with most forklift attachments I suppose, they don't get a place of prominence in storage but sure are appreciated when you need them.

I've drug out a few more bits getting ready to start on a boom extension. I think I may go lattice with a low pivot and a sturdy turnbuckle for adjusting boom angle. I'll plate the **** end and gusset in a pivot tube. Probably need a couple struts from the pivot to the upper chord as well. Still planning. Progress may be slow this time of year though. Ed.

 

[lis2323]

Ed those odd ball excavator parts sure will make for a good base and fork pockets. Good save and good eye[emoji481]

 

[dkmc]

I've drug out a few more bits getting ready to start on a boom extension./QUOTE]

Cool project indeed.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I had a couple four day weekends this month so I had some time to work on the jib attachment. I'm not quite done but getting awfully close. I just need to tidy up a few parts and add finish off a few welds. The jib pivots on a heavy wall tube with a 1-15/16" pin. I ended up just using tubing with holes for jib angle adjustment. Too much travel needed, over 30", to get the angle I wanted for the turnbuckle to work. A few pics on the table. Ed.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I put it on the forks for the first time just before it started getting dark this afternoon. It's plenty heavy in the *** so it will easily sit without tipping forward. Jib up adds over 9' to the lift height. I moved it inside to finish it up...tired of dealing with a fogged helmet. Ed.

 

[matt_i]

That's outstanding! What capacity do you have there? 500/1000 lbs at the very end when horizontal? I was trying to scale the photo for a 5k forklift...

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Thanks Matt. I think around #500 horizontal on the far hook may be pretty close. I'll pick up some weights and see how it feels. I have a job for it soon setting a few beams to extend my shops deck/fab space and I needed the reach for that. Tipping point will come before the jib gets sketchy. I expect most uses I have for it will be with it boomed up and it will be easier to store that way too. Ed.

 

[gtermini]

Looks good Ed. If that lift gets squirrely, just flop some more iron on the counterweight. Rumor has it you can slab a forklift out to 150-160% of rated capacity and hnot hurt anything.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Thanks Grayson. I decided to do a test lift with about the only thing I had compact enough to lift in the fab side of the shop. The anvil alone is 400# but I never got around to weighing it with the stand and whatever I've got stuffed inside it. Looks like 900# total and the steering wasn't getting lite yet and it felt ok. Not sure I'll ever need more capacity than that straight out but good to know it can handle it. As for extra counterweight I may get started on the rear mounted tool box soon and will use plenty of heavy steel in it. Ed.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

If your forklift doesn't already have one you might look into an inclinometer (sideways level indicator) to make sure you're pretty level when lifting.

Using the jib up high like that could easily tip you sideways, especially if that structure flexes sideways a bit (which would amplify any out-of-level-ness).

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Thank you for the comments which I agree with Muckin Slusher. A level indicator may be a good addition. I am definitely not intending to travel much, if at all, with even a modest load at max height. When I do have to travel I'll always make sure the runway to final set point is solid and predictable. That said I was a cat skinner in a previous life I fully trust the bubble in my but. Also anytime I have rigging hanging down from a hook it gives me a reliable plomb bob to help with subtle out of level situations.

Also one thing I haven't mentioned is that I left room behind the jib pin to mount a 12v winch if ever decide to. It would allow the line to run up the lower tube and give some versatility when picking at height. It would be handy on a job like pulling a deep well pump. The Toyota has 1/2" plate fenders that could support outrigger brackets as well. I am not planning on doing that modification at this point though.

I did get some mounting points fabbed for a rigging box this morning though. Also a pic of my shop door...I left my lab shut in one day and he dug a hole in the insulation which I patched with this sign. I see it every time I'm in the shop. I always try to remind myself to stay aware of what will happen two steps in the future. It's the key to working without incident. Ed.

 

[drivesitfar]

ORC: I'm not sure i'll ever have the space where I can use a fork lift, but I've loved watching all your projects over the years so when i saw you had a thread about this subject i'm happy to follow along.

here's to a great 2020 for you and your family and for that matter for all the members of GJ.

cheers

 

[lis2323]

Beautiful work, Ed! I love the Toyota with freelift mast. 6000 pounder?

 

[FTG-05]

Spending a lot of time in this thread doing "Save Image As....".

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

ORC: I'm not sure i'll ever have the space where I can use a fork lift, but I've loved watching all your projects over the years so when i saw you had a thread about this subject i'm happy to follow along.

here's to a great 2020 for you and your family and for that matter for all the members of GJ.

cheers

Thanks Drives. I hope you are off to a great start in 2020 too! So many projects so little time...wait...reminds me of 2019 now that I think about it.

Beautiful work, Ed! I love the Toyota with freelift mast. 6000 pounder?

Thanks lis, I'll post a couple pics of my rigging box project now and I hope to have it done by tonight. The Toyota had most of the features I was looking for including the 3 stage mast and pneumatic large diameter tires. I settled for
a 5k lift but would have taken a 6k if it was available. Any bigger and I'd have sacrificed tight spot manuverability. Sure wish there was a front diff locker for it though.

Spending a lot of time in this thread doing "Save Image As....".

Thanks for the ideas!

Nice to see the interest FTG. I like seeing all the other lift modifications and attachments too. Hope to see a lot more show up here. Ed.

 

[lis2323]

Wow. Love the rigging box. Swing away and easy access. No digging around to get gear out. Rubber mat or wood insert for floor? [emoji106][emoji106]

My 6000# Yale is diesel and has WIDE solid fronts and pneumatic steers. 3 stage free lift mast also.

Free lift masts on our propane lifts were a must on the farm for loading and unloading in van body trailers.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Thanks lis, Free lift is a great feature and the only way I could use my lift in the garage and barn which have lower door heights. Forks go way up before the mast gets taller.

I got a coat of primer on the rigging box this afternoon and snapped a few pics. I have a lot of conveyor belting handy so that's what will line both shelves. I didn't throw my rusty chains on the fresh primer but I did set a #25 steel shaft on the far end to check deflection under load. It is pretty solid and didn't scuff the primer off the closing ramp so I think it will handle the weight fine. I used a happy ****** truck hood latch for holding it shut.
I did add a bar welded directly to the hinge to hold a row of shackles. Two trailer balls, a bar, hammer, crescent, pipe wrench, rope, straps, chains and a few other things should load it up. The one pic with the engine cowl up shows why it had to swing clear. I may try to buy some Toyota paint to finish it up. Ed.

 

[lis2323]

Ah. Two levels. Very nice!

I see you are also a fan of using checkerplate. [emoji1]

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I do like diamond plate and had a scrap chunk just about the right size to get all the parts out of. What made cutting the plate very easy was the Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw. This was the first time I got a chance to use it and it worked great on that plate. Really speeds up the fab work. I'm a fan. Ed.

 

[lis2323]

I don’t have a hand held metal cutting circ saw Ed. I use my plasma cutter which is great for the curves but what I would really like to find is a used hydraulic 10 foot shear.

 

[drivesitfar]

ORC: is that a regular Milwaukee saw that you put a metal cutting blade on or was that saw just made for metal cutting with maybe a slower speed?

I picked up a DESTROYER I think it was called at Costco several years ago for cutting 1/4 inch and less steel, but seems like all the stuff I cut can be cut with my Milwaukee bandsaw so it's still new in the box. i might just have to cut up a piece of plate I have for a text and make something.

I saved 4 8 foot I or maybe H beams from my old shop stuff that one is stainless 304 and the other three are aluminum that probably would make good fork extensions, but I was thinking of using them for a small shed foundation. I haven't read all of your thread here yet, but have you or anybody made your fork extensions out of I or H beams?

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I don’t have a hand held metal cutting circ saw Ed. I use my plasma cutter which is great for the curves but what I would really like to find is a used hydraulic 10 foot shear.

Plasma would be good for a lot of cutting jobs but I've been getting by just using a torch for most of my cutting. I do have a 4' x 14 guage mechanical shear but it's not set up for easy access right now and the diamond plate was too thick anyway. The really big shears do show up fairly cheap sometimes though. Not too many shops have the space for them or the equipment to handle them.

ORC: is that a regular Milwaukee saw that you put a metal cutting blade on or was that saw just made for metal cutting with maybe a slower speed?

The Milwaukee circular saw is made just for metal. It uses a carbide tipped blade and I'm not sure what rpm it runs but slower than a wood saw and works like a cold saw. It works really well on mild steel.

I saved 4 8 foot I or maybe H beams from my old shop stuff that one is stainless 304 and the other three are aluminum that probably would make good fork extensions, but I was thinking of using them for a small shed foundation. I haven't read all of your thread here yet, but have you or anybody made your fork extensions out of I or H beams?

I know a couple guys have used rectangular box for fork extensions Drives but I'm not sure about using beams. Seems like it might be a little too bulky. The best fork extensions are tapered kind of like regular forks. Beams do make fine foundations though. Ed.

 

[lis2323]

Drives, steel channel that fits over existing forks make the best extensions.

Mine

 

[gtermini]

Used my larger stinger today to stuff a shaper that followed me home in my conex storage unit. My 5K Hyster didn't wheelie with 1500 lbs hanging 6ft out on it (1.2X chart rated ft-lbs cap).

 

[lis2323]

Used my larger stinger today to stuff a shaper that followed me home in my conex storage unit. My 5K Hyster didn't wheelie with 1500 lbs hanging 6ft out on it (1.2X chart rated ft-lbs cap).

What’s the plan? Does it need a refurb or just clean up and use? Got a pic before it went inside or is it shy? [emoji2]

 

[gtermini]

It needs some sort of drive put together. It's never been run off anything but a lineshaft. Power on the tool, semi-universal table, and it being 9 miles from home drew me in like a moth to the flame.

 

[IndyGarage]

Thanks lis, Free lift is a great feature and the only way I could use my lift in the garage and barn which have lower door heights. Forks go way up before the mast gets taller.

I got a coat of primer on the rigging box this afternoon and snapped a few pics. I have a lot of conveyor belting handy so that's what will line both shelves. I didn't throw my rusty chains on the fresh primer but I did set a #25 steel shaft on the far end to check deflection under load. It is pretty solid and didn't scuff the primer off the closing ramp so I think it will handle the weight fine. I used a happy ****** truck hood latch for holding it shut.
I did add a bar welded directly to the hinge to hold a row of shackles. Two trailer balls, a bar, hammer, crescent, pipe wrench, rope, straps, chains and a few other things should load it up. The one pic with the engine cowl up shows why it had to swing clear. I may try to buy some Toyota paint to finish it up. Ed.

That's cool. I just throw the stuff on the back - it never seems to fall off.

I had a Toyota just about like that one, it was a 6K Diesel. I really liked it, but it was a little big to maneuver in my shop, so I sold it off. I prefer the Nissan electrics I have now.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Nice use of your very stout stinger gtermini as well as congrats on the interesting shaper. Is that a Potter & Johnston? It is missing a few key pieces but likely not too hard to make and shapers are fun to watch work. Seems like you had a small Atlas years ago also missing the table feed parts. I still have two 7" Atlas shapers as well as a 28" Gould & Eberhardt. I need to let a couple go so I don't end up stacking them like cordwood. Ed.

 

[drivesitfar]

GT: just ask ORC cause I would love to live where I could put a shipping container and have some of my projects stored away where I don't have to pay monthly storage. I bet you've got a few goodies stuffed away in there don't you?

ORC: several shapers? do you like those as much as LATHES or other cool tools you seem to gather?

LIS: I know I've got one huge piece of steel channel laying around here that i'm guessing might work for one arm of a fork lift. it's 8 foot long and maybe 2l5 x 4 so might be a bit small, but heavy gauge and that piece probably weighs 125 pounds.

great thread!!

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

That's cool. I just throw the stuff on the back - it never seems to fall off.

I had a Toyota just about like that one, it was a 6K Diesel. I really liked it, but it was a little big to maneuver in my shop, so I sold it off. I prefer the Nissan electrics I have now.

Thanks Indy, Electrics are definitely nice in the shop and maybe the yard as long as you don't have too much off surface use. I end up running quite a bit on gravel getting down to my junk...I mean supply pile, and I'm sure my rigging would rattle off and be scattered without some containment. It was fun to build at the very least and should help keep a few things handy. Ed.