Shop Tool Set

[Codejack]

Warning: Serious OCD tool geek stuff ahead. You have been warned.

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OK, so my portable "Pro" toolkit is basically done:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365989

All I need is the 1/2" SAE impact set, and to move the deeps over to a box with the impact gun, then to make a tray for them. Sorted.

Now, I need to plan out a shop set, and of course, the spec is a little different:

1. Price. Unfortunately, my life situation is still precarious, so keeping costs down is key, respective of the item in question.

2. Quality. I will have the portable set of impacts available, so good sockets in common sizes are covered; I need a comprehensive chrome set, though, and it's always nice to have backups in case things break. Pliers, cutters and wrenches need to be good, trying to find a balance on everything else, but as usual, suggestions are welcome.

3. Size. I am still semi-nomadic, and may continue to be for a while, so I'm looking at filling out a single, medium-sized storage box. I can always buy another box, and I'm not going to stress about it all being in different colors and **** like that. It's easier to move multiple smaller boxes, anyway.

I also have an existing 7-drawer 26" Craftsman box that I will be going to get this week. It's going to have body tools, grinder, sander, etc in it, though.

It is also not out of the question that I might wind up working in someone else's shop as an employee, at least for a while, and this would be my work set.

Note that I may not actually even start buying this set for several months, depending on how business goes, so don't hold your breath waiting on pictures

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The Plan

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Box

Yukon 46" 9 Drawer Work Bench with Solid Wood Top, $300.

This box would let me mount vise and grinder on the top and have a comprehensive work center on wheels while being big enough for what I have spec'd out with some room to spare.

These also have pretty good reviews.

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Sockets

Wow, did this discussion turn into a doozy. That's OK, I think that I've found a solution

So, I'll still have my portable set:

So, let's just take 1/4" and 3/8" as given for now, and focus on 1/2". Tekton was called "cheap," and a few other questions were raised that set me off my course. Try this:

GearWrench 1/2" Standard and Deep Metric Impact Socket Set, 39-pieces, $114.

GearWrench 1/2" Standard and Deep SAE Impact Socket Set, 39-pieces, $146.

Pittsburgh Professional 1/2" Flex Head Ratchet, $22

Crescent 1/4" Breaker Bar, 7.5", $11.

Capri Tools Torx Socket Set, 60-pieces, $45.

Neiko Master Hex Bit Socket Set, 32-piece, $47.

ORMTools 3/8" Drive Magnetic Spark Plug Socket Set, 3-piece, $10.

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Wrenches

GearWrench Long Pattern Non-Ratcheting Combination Wrench Set SAE/Metric, 44-piece, $158.

1/4" - 1-1/2", 6mm-28mm, 30mm, 32mm.

I have the long handled Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight) wrenches, and they're pretty sad; they work OK, but are showing wear marks after minimal use. $19 for 11 of them, though, they have been handy, and they are prime candidates to get cut for short access work...

These are supposed to be high quality, the set is basically complete, and the price is right.

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Pliers

Stanley Fatmax Diamond Pliers Set, 3-piece, $29.

Stanley Fatmax Xtreme Diagonal Pliers, $23.

Stanley Fatmax Groove Joint Pliers, 2-piecep. $25.

Stanley Fatmax End Cutting Pliers, $13.

Stanley Fatmax 6" Adjustable Wrench, $8.

Stanley Fatmax 12" Adjustable Wrench, $12.

Stanley Proto Locking Pliers Set, 3-piece, $45.

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Drivers and picks

Wera Screwdriver Set, 6-piece, $40.

Bondhus Balldriver L-Wrenches Metric and SAE, $17.

Bondhus Star-tipped L-Wrenches, $10.

ABN Hook, Pick and Scraper Set, 9-piece, $17.

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Hammers, Punches, Chisels and Pry Bars

Ironton Hammer Set, 3-piece, $15.

Stanley Fatmax 3# Drilling Hammer, $16.

Stanley 1# Rubber Mallet, $6.

Astro Punch and Chisel Set, 16-piece, $20.

Craftsman Pry Bar Set, 3-piece, $33.

No idea about any of this stuff. Well reviewed, well priced, how wrong can I go?

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Electrical Tools

Innova 3340 Automotive Digital Multimeter, $75.

Klein Tools Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, $22.

Klein Tools Wire Stripper, $18.

Anbes Soldering Iron Kit, $18.

That Innova unit is a little pricey, but a good DMM is essential. Not something to scrimp on.

Never heard of Anbes, but it's well reviewed, and the price is right.

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Specialty Tools

Capri Tools 1/2" Impact Driver Set, 10-piece, $30.

Astro Brake Caliper Wind Back Set, 18-piece, $30

Lisle Oil Filter Tool, $10.

Pittsburgh Automotive Oil Filter Pliers, $8.

Kind of random stuff, but things that I either have and find essential, or thought of when I asked myself what little things I could really use.

The oil filter pliers I have and use, already, and they are great. The other stuff just looks useful.

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Total: $1,393.

Comments, questions, suggestions? Let's hear it!

Edit: Several suggestions have been taken, here are the things I'm not sure about, or are further down the road:

Tekton 1/4" and 3/8" Socket Sets, $89.

Tekton 1/2" Socket Set, 84-piece, $181.

The entire point of the chrome set is to cover sizes that I don't have in my impact set, which means that the Williams, or most other brands, are completely pointless.

Greenlee DM-200A Multimeter, $96.

I'm sure that it is a nice unit, but wow is it short on functionality. Hooking up to a PC is a nice feature, but not really useful for automotive work, and I've got a nice bench DMM.

The Innova has some useful features, like a tachometer, that would be VERY useful, so I'm sticking with it for now.

Matco MD319 Multi-Meter, used, $100.

Astro Harmonic Balancer Puller Set, $45.

OTC 4518 Stinger 5-ton Bar-Type Puller/Bearing Separator Set, $85.

Genius Tools Extra Long Metric 0° Offset Box End Wrench Set, 6-piece, $97.

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OK, the pliers situation has really been ticking me off. I originally had Irwins picked out, because I've had good luck with them, only to be told that they were cheap junk. So I spec'd out the high end Stanleys, and got the same reaction. Apparently, if you aren't using Knipex, Channellock or a truck brand, you aren't worthy to actually use your tools professionally.

Well, that's an attitude that I am sick of, so these are going on the list as alternates to the Stanleys:

RWIN VISE-GRIP GrooveLock Pliers Set, 8 Piece, $80.

IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP End Cutting Pliers, $14.

 

[FigureItOut]

I have a few of those myself, it looks like you made some good choices. I have my doubts about an $18 dollar 60 watt soldering iron, but I use mine nearly every day. Personally I'd replace all the Irwin with channellock for a comparable price, but you did say you're a fan of Irwin so I wouldn't try to convince you otherwise. That Irwin stripper though, ditch that and get the auto version. I use mine heavily on a wide range of wire sizes and it beats every other stripper I've tried. Its the only Irwin tool I'd buy other than my NWS rebrands which I love.

Also look at Owon for budget priced meters that are heavy on features. The Innova is probably fine but you get a lot with an Owon, and most models have Bluetooth which comes in amazingly handy at times.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

 

[Yarpo]

Man I love well constructed posts like this, always makes me wanna go out and buy more tools

I have those gearwrenchs long pattern wrenches in my home box, and I like them. I don't wrench at home often, so I can't comment on their long term quality but they work and feel great in my hand. They're nice enough I'd consider moving them to replace my work wrenches, but those still work fine so...

Also, any reason you need chrome sockets? I know impacts are obviously thicker and make it hard to get into some places but with 1/2" drive, size is usually not an issue. In both my home and work boxes all my main 1/2" sockets are impacts, and I've not had an issue. I do have an extra set of chrome sockets, but I don't think I've used them once. I am however working on very large trucks, and not often cars so ymmv.

I also think leaving out 3/8th drive is a mistake. I'd get that bogo deal on the gearwrench sets for 108 dollars or whatever. Its 40 dollars more than your 1/4 set after you factor in that HF ratchet, but you get a full setup of 3/8th drive tools.

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-80550F.html

Personally I'd replace all the Irwin with channellock for a comparable price, but you did say you're a fan of Irwin so I wouldn't try to convince you otherwise.

Agreed, I love my channellock tools. I'd throw another larger size channel locks on your list also, regardless of brand choice.

 

[FigureItOut]

Here's an $18, 60 watt soldering iron made by Hakko, among the most respected brands in soldering equipment. It doesn't come with all the accessories, but it's an option to consider seeing as how you're mostly after well regarded brands.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

 

[slow_mow]

Honestly, with what you're trying to accomplish, just get your sockets from harbor freight. You'll be money ahead and then you could afford 3/8 sockets (you will need/want them)

 

[zktk01]

Where are Yukon Boxes sold? I have never heard of them.
Nevermind, clicked the link HF. I thought HF only sold General tooboxes wasn't aware of Yukon

 

[Snakebyt]

i think you can get yukon boxes at northern tool

 

[Codejack]

Personally I'd replace all the Irwin with channellock for a comparable price, but you did say you're a fan of Irwin so I wouldn't try to convince you otherwise. That Irwin stripper though, ditch that and get the auto version. I use mine heavily on a wide range of wire sizes and it beats every other stripper I've tried. Its the only Irwin tool I'd buy other than my NWS rebrands which I love.

I have some Channellocks, and they are pretty good, but I like the thicker grips that Irwins come with.

Also look at Owon for budget priced meters that are heavy on features. The Innova is probably fine but you get a lot with an Owon, and most models have Bluetooth which comes in amazingly handy at times.

I'll take a look at that; I only chose the Innova because it came highly recommended, and my existing DMM is 20 years old from a brand that doesn't exist, anymore

Also, any reason you need chrome sockets? I know impacts are obviously thicker and make it hard to get into some places but with 1/2" drive, size is usually not an issue. In both my home and work boxes all my main 1/2" sockets are impacts, and I've not had an issue. I do have an extra set of chrome sockets, but I don't think I've used them once. I am however working on very large trucks, and not often cars so ymmv.

My impact set is not complete; it has skips, especially in larger sizes and deeps, and as you say, occasionally you need a thin socket. That Tekton 1/2" is complete up to 32mm and 1-1/2", shallow and deep.

I also think leaving out 3/8th drive is a mistake. I'd get that bogo deal on the gearwrench sets for 108 dollars or whatever. Its 40 dollars more than your 1/4 set after you factor in that HF ratchet, but you get a full setup of 3/8th drive tools.

The price is basically irrelevant; the 3/8" Tekton set is only $44.

But why do I need it? The 1/4" and 1/2" sets overlap, so the entire 3/8" set would be redundant. Most of this set is already kind of redundant...

Agreed, I love my channellock tools. I'd throw another larger size channel locks on your list also, regardless of brand choice.

Like I said, I've got some Channellocks, and they work well (even if they do rust like bastards...), but I prefer thicker grips. I have big hands.

I could easily upgrade to this set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GR37WU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Here's an $18, 60 watt soldering iron made by Hakko, among the most respected brands in soldering equipment. It doesn't come with all the accessories, but it's an option to consider seeing as how you're mostly after well regarded brands.

Cool, I will definitely consider that; I've been using cheap irons for years, though, and other than taking longer to heat up (I doubt that one is actually 60W...), they work fine.

Honestly, with what you're trying to accomplish, just get your sockets from harbor freight. You'll be money ahead and then you could afford 3/8 sockets (you will need/want them)

No.

First of all, you can't get anything like a complete set from HF; I don't think that they make a 20mm socket, in any set.

Second, their 3/8" and 1/2" shallow sockets are all 12-point, and I generally prefer 6-point. I may actually buy the 3/8" shallow set, for this reason alone, but at that point, in my mind, it falls under "special sockets"

Third, it's not cheaper: To get as complete a set (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") as you can is close to $300; I could get all 3 Tekton sets for $270, which would be truly complete. Money isn't the primary concern here, anyway.

--------------------------------

I actually have the 1/4" HF set in my portable kit, and my 1/2" impacts are HF. They are nice, but I bought them for my portable kit precisely because they were small and incomplete, to save weight.

The shop set has kind of the opposite spec; I want every size I can get

 

[jumbojak]

I'd spend twice the money and get a better wind back tool for calipers. The cube is a bit wonky to use and the kits with specific adapters aren't much more. The long gearwrench wrenches are very nice. I have the smaller set that only goes to 19mm-1". Just don't do what I did and buy the six point version. More trouble than its worth.

My small soldering iron came in a very similar kit to that one. It could well be the same iron under a different brand. Check the ceramic in the tip for crud. Mine had something on it that let out a lot of smoke. I thought I'd killed the iron but after gently scraping the ceramic it works fine. It does take a while to heat up though...

For the meter, make sure you get some other probes. Alligator clips are a must and I'm not sure if that innova comes with them. I have the cheaper model and it's a good meter but you need a better selection of probes.

Any leftover monet I would put towards a scan tool. I remember you saying that you'd use auto zones free tool service but being able to drive the vehicle and look at fuel trims and o2 sensor function can be a big help.

 

[thatguysb]

Great list

 

[Codejack]

I'd spend twice the money and get a better wind back tool for calipers. The cube is a bit wonky to use and the kits with specific adapters aren't much more.

Lol, and that was an upgrade to my usual technique of wedging a flat-head screwdriver in there and levering them around...

They are cheap enough to grab a big set, though, you are right.

The long gearwrench wrenches are very nice. I have the smaller set that only goes to 19mm-1". Just don't do what I did and buy the six point version. More trouble than its worth.

I can see that; hard to get the right angle, huh?

My small soldering iron came in a very similar kit to that one. It could well be the same iron under a different brand. Check the ceramic in the tip for crud. Mine had something on it that let out a lot of smoke. I thought I'd killed the iron but after gently scraping the ceramic it works fine. It does take a while to heat up though...

That was probably an anti-corrosion coating to protect it until it started use; I imagine that the designer figured that it would melt off on the first use, and the smoke isn't exactly out of place...

For the meter, make sure you get some other probes. Alligator clips are a must and I'm not sure if that innova comes with them. I have the cheaper model and it's a good meter but you need a better selection of probes.

That's pretty much any meter; my old one came with clips, but I lost them years ago. I just use test leads, and if I'm doing a lot of work, I'll rig up a wire board to sort things out.

Any leftover monet I would put towards a scan tool. I remember you saying that you'd use auto zones free tool service but being able to drive the vehicle and look at fuel trims and o2 sensor function can be a big help.

I picked up one of those ebay obdii units for $15, the Oxgord brand. Do you have a recommendation for a live data scan tool for a reasonable price? This was the best I could find:

Autel AL319 OBD II & CAN Scan Tool, $35.

 

[Citation]

Dump the junk Innova multimeter and get a Greenlee DM200a. It's about the same price and a much better meter. Even better is get the DM210a or a Matco DM257. All of the above are variations of the same Brymen based meters. If course you can do even better if you are wrong to look used.

 

[jumbojak]

I have a Bluetooth model that lives in my bag and works well enough in a pinch. Used an Autel a few times that was really, really nice. I wish I could remember the model off hand. A good scan tool is on my list as well, what little side work I've been doing has been hampered more by a lack of diagnostic capability than nuts and bolts type stuff.

 

[Codejack]

Dump the junk Innova multimeter and get a Greenlee DM200a. It's about the same price and a much better meter. Even better is get the DM210a or a Matco DM257. All of the above are variations of the same Brymen based meters. If course you can do even better if you are wrong to look used.

It's so weird to look at expensive meters with so few functions.

Here's my current DMM:

Bear in mind, it cost $80 20 years ago.

 

[RH2]

I'll make two suggestions that have already been mentioned.

1) I would swap the tekton 1/4 for the gearwrench deal. Keep the tekton 1/2 if you like, but the gearwrench deal will be much more useful for about $60 more.

2) Skip the cube and get an actual brake caliper set. HF actually sells a nice one and it will save you a lot of time and frustration.

Both of those changes and you'll still have money left.

Thanks,
Robert

 

[Codejack]

I'll make two suggestions that have already been mentioned.

1) I would swap the tekton 1/4 for the gearwrench deal. Keep the tekton 1/2 if you like, but the gearwrench deal will be much more useful for about $60 more.

OK, OK! I'll get the 3/8" set

2) Skip the cube and get an actual brake caliper set. HF actually sells a nice one and it will save you a lot of time and frustration.

Both of those changes and you'll still have money left.

Thanks,
Robert

Well, the HF set is stupid expensive; $50!

Neiko makes a set for $20:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IB40L6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[crewchief888]

Price. Unfortunately, my life situation is still precarious,

i think i'd be questioning myself about buying a 2nd set of tools if i was in a "precarious life situation"
not sure what that exactly means

just my $0.02


i'd been working at const eq dealerships for 15 years before i decided it'd be nice to have a 2nd set of tools at home.
i did have a few misc tools around, in whatever sizes i needed to keep my own POS van & truck running, or reassemble engines for my flattrack ATC's.

 

[Yarpo]

I see your edits and saw you added the gearwrench 1/2" set, and like you mention the tekton is more complete. I would stay the course for tekton 1/2 set, but get the gearwrench bogo deal. As I stated earlier it's 40 dollars more than your tekton and HF ratchet but you get extra 3/8th tools.

 

[Codejack]

Price. Unfortunately, my life situation is still precarious,

i think i'd be questioning myself about buying a 2nd set of tools if i was in a "precarious life situation"
not sure what that exactly means

just my $0.02

Oh, it's more along the lines of, "The house I am living in, which was my grandmother's, and has the shop that I am using to work out of, might be sold out from under me at some point, because grandmother, who was in a nursing home, died last month."

Or, it might not; it depends on what all my aunts and uncles finally decide, and so far, most of them want nothing to do with the matter.

"Precarious," as in, "I might have to start paying rent, soon"

As for buying a 2nd set, it goes back to my portable set thread, where I am working in different places.

 

[Codejack]

I see your edits and saw you added the gearwrench 1/2" set, and like you mention the tekton is more complete. I would stay the course for tekton 1/2 set, but get the gearwrench bogo deal. As I stated earlier it's 40 dollars more than your tekton and HF ratchet but you get extra 3/8th tools.

Check again

It's $5 more than the Tekton 1/4" AND 3/8" sets AND the HF ratchet; if you guys really want me to get the 3/8" set, I'm going to just get the Tekton.

Nothing against GW, but it's a better deal.

 

[Bacon Man]

I use that Greenlee daily at work, it's a good DMM and I personally like it better than the Flukes.

 

[Yarpo]

Check again

It's $5 more than the Tekton 1/4" AND 3/8" sets AND the HF ratchet; if you guys really want me to get the 3/8" set, I'm going to just get the Tekton.

Nothing against GW, but it's a better deal.

Oh, didn't see that, did you sneak it in or did I miss it?

Either way I have no qualms against that, seems like a decent deal. That said, I don't know how their ratchets are but should be good enough. I think you'll be pleased with having 3/8th tools around

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I got the previous version of that innova on sale $50 thinking I'd replace it with a Fluke when needed. My 2 gripes were no ACV, and a funny special order fuse for the 10amp lead.
Oh, and its needed batteries every year or two, so I've bought at least 10 of those.

 

[Codejack]

Oh, didn't see that, did you sneak it in or did I miss it?

It's moved around, but it was an option in the link.

Either way I have no qualms against that, seems like a decent deal. That said, I don't know how their ratchets are but should be good enough. I think you'll be pleased with having 3/8th tools around

Like I said, I will probably wind up using the HF ratchets, anyway, or even the GF80, if I don't sell it

 

[Codejack]

I got the previous version of that innova on sale $50 thinking I'd replace it with a Fluke when needed. My 2 gripes were no ACV, and a funny special order fuse for the 10amp lead.
Oh, and its needed batteries every year or two, so I've bought at least 10 of those.

Well, I shouldn't need ACV working on cars...

Beyond that, if you have had it for 10 years, then that is a pretty solid recommendation.

Edit: This model has ACV, so there is that. I still wouldn't use it for my bench DMM, though, because it doesn't have inductance or capacitance meters. Neither does the Greenlee.

 

[sk farmer]

i would pick the gearwrench setts over tekton for the ratchets alone. i am not sure what people see in those large clunky headed ratchets, no matter whose name is stamped on them.

 

[Codejack]

i would pick the gearwrench setts over tekton for the ratchets alone. i am not sure what people see in those large clunky headed ratchets, no matter whose name is stamped on them.

I probably wouldn't use either one; I bought a Snap On GF80 and two Harbor Freight ratchets for my portable set:

That 1/4" ratchet has held up to some abuse, despite being a flex head, and it is smooth as silk. The 1/2" extendable ratchet it just amazing.

Any way I go, I will probably wind up buying these two ratchets:

 

[Mr_B]

^
Yep can't go wrong with those pitts pro ratchets for the money and warranty .

 

[Codejack]

^
Yep can't go wrong with those pitts pro ratchets for the money and warranty .

That 1/4" flex head has me sold; I've been pushing it a little, precisely because I do have the warranty, and it has been amazing.

That's part of my thinking behind only getting 12-point shallow and specialty sockets in 3/8"; the 1/4" is really strong enough to do most things that I need, especially if I add a breaker bar or t-driver set.

 

[verbalkint99]

the box looks exactly like a Husky one at home depot and they put them on sale for $200 several times a year.

 

[jumbojak]

the box looks exactly like a Husky one at home depot and they put them on sale for $200 several times a year.

There was a comparison between the two and the HF was far superior to the latest Husky in that style.

 

[Citation]

Well, I shouldn't need ACV working on cars...

Beyond that, if you have had it for 10 years, then that is a pretty solid recommendation.

Edit: This model has ACV, so there is that. I still wouldn't use it for my bench DMM, though, because it doesn't have inductance or capacitance meters. Neither does the Greenlee.

I briefly had a lower end Innova. It had some nice features but was generally junk. That was OK when it was $20. This is $75 and I'm just not willing to accept some of the flaws given the number of good meters that can be bought for the same money (new and used)
I don't like meters that don't have a fuse on the high current range. I fixed a Matco meter that was blown because someone replaced the high current fuse with a screw then decided to measure something high current. I'm not sure that automotive meters need buss fuses but they should NEVER have no fuses on the current range given your average car battery can source well over 100 amps.

I also just found the Innova to be cheaply constructed and the probes were low quality. For $75, why go with something cheap?


For similar money I would really suggest used based on a quick ebay search these would rise to the top of my list (no connection with the sellers! )
Matco (Brymen) automotive meter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-MD319...318835?hash=item465ede0333:g:fhAAAOSw4CFYt2Xe

Matco's version of the Brymen 257 meter. I'm guessing this will sell for under $80
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-Tools...639098?hash=item4d63033fba:g:1vAAAOSwLQpZswiF

This is a very good meter "untested is always a risk so I would probably pass but if you knew it was good this one is a great value (also Brymen based)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amprobe-AM-...060493?hash=item4400415fcd:g:ELAAAOSwuxFY0BAH
This and the identical 270 are are new around $110. Under the skin they are the same as the Greenlee DM-820 (not 820a).

Here are some Greenlee 820s. I've seen these for about half this price from time to time.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-HO...518419?hash=item2129a3c113:g:CK0AAOSw9~5ZWBBF
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-DM...167478?hash=item283e7e77f6:g:eMIAAOSwzPdZqPRr

Greenlee 820A. This is the replacement model for the one above. Big but very nice. It has all the features you need (you can calculate RPM, dwell etc from the frequency and duty cycle fuctions. I bought one of these in serviceable shape for $60 off ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-Tr...785428?hash=item5d7559ea14:g:OVwAAOSwbURZsx7V

I'm not actually a Brymen fanboy but it's hard to argue they produce a great meter for the money. I've found some killer Fluke deals as well (the old tank Fluke 27 can be had for under $40 quite often and they have the GREAT Touchhold feature (not Hold, Touchhold)) but the Greenlee and Amprobe Brymens just seem like the most consistent deals.

The China Fluke are also good options. They range from the 101 for around $50 to the 17B for a bit over $100. They might be Flukes for the Chinese markets but they live up to the Fluke name.

 

[Citation]

That 1/4" flex head has me sold; I've been pushing it a little, precisely because I do have the warranty, and it has been amazing.

That's part of my thinking behind only getting 12-point shallow and specialty sockets in 3/8"; the 1/4" is really strong enough to do most things that I need, especially if I add a breaker bar or t-driver set.

You should give the roto style ratchet a shot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NAPA-2-Piec...295150&hash=item1a0e9d91e9:g:~TsAAOSw5dNWlxc2
I prefer these to my flex head ratchets. Yes, the head part is bigger but it's really nice to have the axis of the handle cross that of the socket. It makes it easier to apply more torque. The NAPA ones above are the same OEM as my Crescent and Gearwrench.

 

[Citation]

That 1/4" flex head has me sold; I've been pushing it a little, precisely because I do have the warranty, and it has been amazing.

That's part of my thinking behind only getting 12-point shallow and specialty sockets in 3/8"; the 1/4" is really strong enough to do most things that I need, especially if I add a breaker bar or t-driver set.

As I recall you have a Miata. I broke my 1/4 drive Cman trying to get a 14mm bolt somewhere off the front end of a Miata. No insult to the ratchet as I was using a cheater bar. At the time I did have a 14mm 3/8 drive... but it was shallow and no good for getting at whatever bolt it was. I find I rarely use the shallows but use the 3/8 deep a lot. I wouldn't pass on them.

 

[Tallpilot]

Take a look at this instead of the Tekton set. I like Tekton sockets but their bit sockets don't get great reviews. This set is also more complete. Better prices are probably found off Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESN02G2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Tallpilot]

Made by Grip-On in Spain. Same price as the Irwins basically and much better.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMJDC8K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Tallpilot]

I like a set with both a LH and a RH tool. I agree with you there is not much need to spend a bunch of money on these. If it doesn't go easy the caliper is junk so these can be pretty cheap pot metal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0122Q83T4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Mr_B]

roto head ratchets are useful, I use 3/8 long roto a lot .
The 100tooth carlyles are nice, HF pitts pro ones are not serviceable so can't grease it for better performance .
No idea what sockets best out of tekton or gearwrench, my hunch would be gearwrench but that based on older sockets and unsure how current manufacture has changed things. Wouldn't skip 3/8 sockets if a deal price is not much more as with long 3/8 ratchet (flexi, roto) it surprising how much 3/8 can cover in a more compact easier handling form .
That Yukon box okay in price, not expandable as don't do side hangon boxes and it only 18" deep .
I prefer 40 to 50" boxes and end hangons if want bigger for same reason you pointing out, easier transport in future, 72" boxes are ballache if bit nomadic
Worth also keeping look out for used boxes such as older craftsman etc as can get some bargain clean non tool truck brand boxes and add worktop if required .
As with all the lower price stuff getting it when on best deal/sale/promo price is trick to real value for this quality range tool purchase .

 

[cherrybomb]

I would also keep the idea in mind that some times mid length sockets,work so much better than deeps.I just purchased a set of SK'S and they are excellent.Instead of doubles,maybe a set of mids,just a thought,enjoy your thread,keep up the good work.

 

[Codejack]

I'll look at those DMMs; if I can get the same features in a better unit for the same money, I'm sold.

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Roto-ratchets: I've seen them, I know a guy who uses one, but I'm not wild about them. Generally speaking, I would just as soon have a finger ratchet or even just an extension I can twist by hand.

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As I recall you have a Miata. I broke my 1/4 drive Cman...

Well, yea: I broke a 3/8" drive 17mm Cman socket on a brake caliper bolt. Twice. It wasn't that tight...

I've used that HF 1/4" ratchet and socket on some stuff that I seriously thought was going to break it, but didn't.

Get better quality tools

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The Capri Hex set is bigger for just a little more money. Sold.

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Made by Grip-On in Spain. Same price as the Irwins basically and much better.

Um....! I'm not averse to the price, but it's going to take some convincing of me about anyone making a "much better" tool than Irwin. Maybe someone else will chime in, but I've had a dozen different brands of visegrips, and the Irwins are head and shoulders above everything else.

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The LH brake tool is a great idea, that's definitely on the list.

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3/8" socket set. Wow, has this one touched some nerves

Note that the sockets are probably one of the last purchases I am going to make for this set; I've got the portable set that I can always use while I build up the rest. Frankly, the specialty tools are likely to be first.

So, I've got some time, and I am going to work on using my 1/4" and 1/2" sets as much as possible, to see where the problems might be. A 1/4" breaker bar is definitely going on the list.

The semi-deep set is an interesting idea, but I really don't see the use for those, at all. I don't even use deeps very often, I am more likely to use a shallow socket on an extension, unless it's a nut with a long bolt sticking through it, and that's pretty rare, really.

And, of course, I will ALWAYS have the 3/8" GearWrench thinwall impact set; it's not that I'm going to be without the sockets, I just don't see any reason to have ten different 12mm sockets. How likely is it that I need a deep 12mm socket on a bolt that is too tight for 1/4" and in too inconvenient a spot for 1/2" drive?

Maybe a stubby 1/2" ratchet to get into tighter places?