Shop Tool Set

[Citation]

I'll look at those DMMs; if I can get the same features in a better unit for the same money, I'm sold.

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Roto-ratchets: I've seen them, I know a guy who uses one, but I'm not wild about them. Generally speaking, I would just as soon have a finger ratchet or even just an extension I can twist by hand.

You are failing to see why people like them. Sure it's nice they can be used like a screwdriver. That's not the reason I like them. I like them because they are more stable than a flex head when you are applying a load. It's a geometry thing. I've got 1/4 and 3/8 flex heads and rotos. The rotos are nicer to use on almost all cases.

Well, yea: I broke a 3/8" drive 17mm Cman socket on a brake caliper bolt. Twice. It wasn't that tight...

I've used that HF 1/4" ratchet and socket on some stuff that I seriously thought was going to break it, but didn't.

Get better quality tools

My Snapon 1/4 drive flex head would have failed just the same. A cheater pipe overloaded the ratchet. I'm not sure why you are asking for the opinions of others if you don't intend to listen.

3/8" socket set. Wow, has this one touched some nerves

Case in point.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Honestly, that's a "cheap" tool set. It will work for a lot of stuff, but when I need something to work I can't afford a failure just to save a few dollars. The tools will pay for themselves so why cheap out just to have it all right now. Instant gratification it sounds like here.

 

[Codejack]

My Snapon 1/4 drive flex head would have failed just the same. A cheater pipe overloaded the ratchet. I'm not sure why you are asking for the opinions of others if you don't intend to listen.



Case in point.

Odd, since I've changed the OP 5 times, now, in response to suggestions.

Here's my question: Why were you using a 1/4" set at all if you could fit a cheater bar in the first place?

More specifically, was it s a situation where a 3/8" deep was the only socket that would fit? If not, how is it relevant to this discussion?

 

[Citation]

Odd, since I've changed the OP 5 times, now, in response to suggestions.

Here's my question: Why were you using a 1/4" set at all if you could fit a cheater bar in the first place?

More specifically, was it s a situation where a 3/8" deep was the only socket that would fit? If not, how is it relevant to this discussion?

You are making assumptions. I wasn't using a 1/4 drive set. I was using a basic mechanics set. I picked the deep 14mm 1/4 drive because it was the only combination that I had that would fit. I had space for a long handle to extend out of the engine bay but limited space around the ratchet head and bolt. My 3/8 shallow wasn't deep enough to reach yet 3/8 shadow plus an extension was too long. The 1/4 drive deep was just the right length. It just wasn't strong enough to free a frozen 14mm bolt. The correct tool for this job was a 14mm deep 3/8 drive. It was added to my collection when I exchanged my ratchet.

The reason why it was relevant was your idea that 1/4 drive and 1/2 would be all you would need. I have an example from working on a Miata where access was limited (hence needed a deep socket or a 1" extention.) and 1/4 wasn't strong enough. If nothing else get a cheep set of HF or Stanley deep 3/8 drive just in case.

That and rather than doubting people when they offer suggestions start with the assumption that they might actually have a good reason even if that reason isn't yet clear.

 

[Codejack]

Honestly, that's a "cheap" tool set. It will work for a lot of stuff, but when I need something to work I can't afford a failure just to save a few dollars. The tools will pay for themselves so why cheap out just to have it all right now. Instant gratification it sounds like here.

Do you have any suggestions? Alternatives?

I've got a pretty solid impact socket set in common sizes, so the chrome sockets are mostly for completeness and backups. That being said, I know professionals who use them with little complaint, but I can see why you would call them "cheap."

The wrenches are the best I could find at that price point; if you can find me a comparable set for even twice the price, I will consider it, but GW is supposed to be solid stuff.

Irwin makes the best pliers that I have ever used, and that's comparing them to some high end stuff I've used on different jobs. I would love to hear someone else chime in about them, but I have no qualms at all about using them.

I would like a better screwdriver set, but Sunex doesn't exactly have a bad reputation, and the only complaints are about the finish on the handles. Again, find me a better set that doesn't skip philips sizes and has bolsters on the shanks, and I will gladly pay twice as much.

Bondhus is cheap? Everything that I have read says that they are as good as you can get.

I can see why you might call ATD tools cheap, but they aren't **** (I have had several ATD tools over the years), and it's a hook and scraper kit, not a socket wrench.

Titan hammers come well regarded, Astro seems to get good reviews, and another Tekton set for pry bars. If you have some specific criticisms, please let me know, or better yet, present an alternative.

The Innova DMM is the highest rated unit on the 'net; there are some criticisms on the forum, so I will be looking at Greenlee, but only because Wavetek doesn't exist, anymore. The soldering iron... who cares?

Tekton Impact Driver. Is it cheap? Yes. Does it do the job? Apparently.

Brake and oil filter tools; I have the oil filter pliers, already, and they work great. Lisle is supposed to be good, and the caliper wind-back tool doesn't need to be heavy duty.

--------------------------------------------------------------

There is a reason for everything that I am doing, and if I have not explained well enough, I apologize, but your remark mostly comes off sounding like a tool snob; as if I am not worthy to do professional work if I don't have a $500 set of wrenches and $1000 worth of sockets.

Well, 25 years of semi-pro and heavy DIY work tell me otherwise. I have pulled engines, changed axles, and done more brake and suspension work on cars and trucks than I can even add up, using Kobalt sockets (Thorsen, at one point!), Craftsman raised panel wrenches, Stanley pliers (I have one pair of Irwins, and half a dozen random Craftsman and other garbage brands) and hammers, Ace brand tape measure and folding hex key set, and $1 screwdrivers from the parts store.

Everything on this list is either an upgrade from what I have now, or something that I have been going without, i.e. using screwdrivers instead of pry bars. The idea being that it will either be good enough, or it will fail and I will replace it with something better.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Again, if you have any specific recommendations, other than "Just buy everything off of a tool truck," please speak up.

 

[Codejack]

You are making assumptions. I wasn't using a 1/4 drive set. I was using a basic mechanics set. I picked the deep 14mm 1/4 drive because it was the only combination that I had that would fit. I had space for a long handle to extend out of the engine bay but limited space around the ratchet head and bolt. My 3/8 shallow wasn't deep enough to reach yet 3/8 shadow plus an extension was too long. The 1/4 drive deep was just the right length. It just wasn't strong enough to free a frozen 14mm bolt. The correct tool for this job was a 14mm deep 3/8 drive. It was added to my collection when I exchanged my ratchet.

OK; would a 1/2" deep not have fit, even on a low profile, flex head ratchet? Would my 3/8" deep impact be too thick?

The reason why it was relevant was your idea that 1/4 drive and 1/2 would be all you would need. I have an example from working on a Miata where access was limited (hence needed a deep socket or a 1" extention.) and 1/4 wasn't strong enough. If nothing else get a cheep set of HF or Stanley deep 3/8 drive just in case.

But you didn't address why a 1/2" deep or 3/8" impact deep socket would not have worked.

That and rather than doubting people when they offer suggestions start with the assumption that they might actually have a good reason even if that reason isn't yet clear.

I was asking for clarification, not attacking the idea; you seem to be ignoring the fact that I will have both 1/2" deep sockets with a low profile ratchet (which should get anywhere a 3/8" deep would) and 3/8" deep impact sockets available.

I am suggesting that the very specific situation where I need high torque on a bolt in a situation where both a 1/2" ratchet AND a 3/8" thin wall impact socket will be too big does not exist, and your example has not proven otherwise.

 

[Codejack]

Heh, here's a neat looking set:

Bahco 106-piece Socket Set, $248.

Notice anything funny about it?

 

[Citation]

OK; would a 1/2" deep not have fit, even on a low profile, flex head ratchet? Would my 3/8" deep impact be too thick?

I have no idea if a 1/2 deep would have fit since I didn't have one at the time. My 1/2 deeps are rather think walled impacts and probably wouldn't have due to diameter but I can't be certain. This wasn't done yesterday. I have no idea if your 3/8 impacts would fit.

But you didn't address why a 1/2" deep or 3/8" impact deep socket would not have worked.

Because I didn't own them at the time.

I was asking for clarification, not attacking the idea; you seem to be ignoring the fact that I will have both 1/2" deep sockets with a low profile ratchet (which should get anywhere a 3/8" deep would) and 3/8" deep impact sockets available.

I am suggesting that the very specific situation where I need high torque on a bolt in a situation where both a 1/2" ratchet AND a 3/8" thin wall impact socket will be too big does not exist, and your example has not proven otherwise.

If I missed your intent my apologies. I would not assume a 1/2 impact will fit where a 3/8 will. I know I've run into a few places where I tried unsuccessfully to use my 1/2 deep impacts vs my 3/8 drive specifically because I wanted the longer handle. Typically I found the think walls of the socket were the problem. I would also add that I just find 3/8 a heck of a lot nicer to use vs 1/2. I mean this is your shop set, why stress about a few extra sockets given all the new stuff on your list.

 

[Shark Pilot]

Notice anything funny about it?

Only 1/4 & 1/2" drive - no 3/8".

 

[Codejack]

I have no idea if a 1/2 deep would have fit since I didn't have one at the time. My 1/2 deeps are rather think walled impacts and probably wouldn't have due to diameter but I can't be certain. This wasn't done yesterday. I have no idea if your 3/8 impacts would fit.


Because I didn't own them at the time.


If I missed your intent my apologies. I would not assume a 1/2 impact will fit where a 3/8 will. I know I've run into a few places where I tried unsuccessfully to use my 1/2 deep impacts vs my 3/8 drive specifically because I wanted the longer handle. Typically I found the think walls of the socket were the problem. I would also add that I just find 3/8 a heck of a lot nicer to use vs 1/2. I mean this is your shop set, why stress about a few extra sockets given all the new stuff on your list.

No apology necessary

Maybe I haven't painted a full picture: The chrome set is mostly just to have a comprehensive set in case I lose/break/just don't have it in my portable set:

As you can see, the 1/4" set is small and of questionable quality (although it's holding up well so far), while the 1/2" is extremely limited and not the thinnest walled sockets in the world. The 3/8" set is very thin walled for impact sockets, but a couple of skips and seriously lacking in large SAE sizes.

Honestly, the 1/4" Tekton set might wait indefinitely; the HF set is doing its job, at least until I run into a 4mm or 5/32" bolt, and would still overlap with the Tekton 1/2" set.

I don't have a 20mm, though, or larger than 21mm deep until you get to axle sockets, and my SAE set gets seriously thin after 3/4".

But, since everyone is so insistent...

 

[Codejack]

Only 1/4 & 1/2" drive - no 3/8".

Yep.

At least someone is still thinking this way, but check the OP here in about 5 minutes

 

[JohnDeere1]

Your Kobalt sockets made by Williams are not cheapo they are USA and was made in a snap on plant that closed down they have Snap on font and date codes they are top notch.
Tekton socket sets are **** they sell them at Meijers and have buy one get one half off deals even that isn't enough to make me buy one. I'm no tool snob I've bought all my tools used all truck and industrial brands and bought them all used for dirt cheap $1 a piece for industrial brands. I have a complete snap on set I got all of it for way cheaper than the gear wrench 1/4,3/8,1/2. Just take your time check pawn shops I bought my multi meters for $1-$2 a piece greenlee and ideal clamp and they work fine.

I paid $50 for my complete 1/2 Sunex impact sockets they came with sunex flip sockets and Mac flip sockets and extension. Buying used is the way and ceapest to go if I didn't have over $100 pro ratchets and a **** ton of pliers I'd say I got $500-700 in all the rest and my collection is huge look up my tool box tour in have a HF 44" box crammed.

Gear wrench sockets are very nice I'd buy them for a road set but I bought a 100pc bluepoint 3/8 & 1/4 set with wrenches for $100 it's $500 new. Irwin does have awesome pliers made in Germany by NWS I have them and love them as much as my knipex get those they are not that high. Everything else get used like I said check pawn shops, and eBay which I've sniped alot of bargains. GL happy hunting

 

[Codejack]

Your Kobalt sockets made by Williams are not cheapo

I know I keep changing the OP, but you should really check it out; one of the options listed at the bottom:

Williams 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Socket Set, 138-pieces, $265.

But then, I've also gone away from the Tektons in favor of just filling out the GearWrench 1/2" impact set, which is about the same price as that Williams set, even on discount.

On the other hand, that kind of defeated the purpose, which was to have a comprehensive chrome set just in case even thin walled impacts were too big to fit somewhere.... AAAAHHHHH!

That being said, I'm not seeing a lot of, "I bought Tekton and they were ****," stories, and they said the same thing about HF stuff, but I bought it anyway, and it has impressed me.

 

[JohnDeere1]

I would call Tekton and HF sockets the same kobalt Williams is world's above both so is Gear wrench Tekton are just cheap generic sockets and I'd say most people that bought them don't have Williams USA and snap on as well as Wright sockets like I do and I have other brands like sk so I got alot to compare and I do have Gear wrench and bluepoint as cheaper ones a and both of those are really nice Tekton I sent close IMO. I do admit I'm kinda a tool snob but I bought all my stuff dirt cheap only a few off the truck, I couldn't imagine having to use Tekton everyday in a pro setting I'd go Carlyle instead they are truck quality made in Taiwan but better than bluepoint or Gearwrench even but not cheap. Buy whatever makes you happy that's all that matters but your talking shop tools so buy shop grade tools not home owner like Tekton even Craftsman is better than them imo. Good Luck to ya bud I'd consider saving money and buying used check ebay right now for Carlyle there are as bargains like complete socket set for $200 all sizes or hit up flea markets and get USA craftsman and whatever else you can find you can make mix ad matched sets my backs ups are but I have back ups for my back ups lol and I've paid no more than $1 or less each.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Yep.

At least someone is still thinking this way

They are European, where 3/8" drive was never really used

Your Kobalt sockets made by Williams are not cheapo they are USA and was made in a snap on plant that closed down they have Snap on font and date codes they are top notch.

Williams does not currently make Kobalt stuff.

Tekton socket sets are ****

They actually work just as well as any other foreign made ones.

Irwin does have awesome pliers made in Germany by NWS

The pliers that CodeJack wants are not German NWS, they are China made.

 

[Codejack]

I guess I'm just going to have to see.

My experience has been terribly different; if Tekton and HF are the same quality, then they are both head and shoulders above Craftsman, even Cman USA. Sorry, but I'll never rely on them again, and the HF stuff has held up remarkably well.

The Kobalt Williams (also USA) were decent, but I broke a few, and of course, can no longer get them replaced.

Check the current plan in the OP; I'm back to building a full impact socket set. At this point, it's only a little more expensive, and I'll worry about chrome later.

-----------------------------------------------

Again, other than the socket set, I've been working with mediocre tools, at best, until now. Everything on the list is either an upgrade, or something that I have been doing without.

I'm looking for "best bang for the buck," and figure that I'll upgrade anything that isn't getting the job done.

 

[rharman]

Where did you get the ribbed drawer liner? I'm looking for an easy way to arrange sockets in a drawer and that is just what I had in mind.

Thanks.

 

[Citation]

I guess I'm just going to have to see.

My experience has been terribly different; if Tekton and HF are the same quality, then they are both head and shoulders above Craftsman, even Cman USA. Sorry, but I'll never rely on them again, and the HF stuff has held up remarkably well.

The Kobalt Williams (also USA) were decent, but I broke a few, and of course, can no longer get them replaced.

Check the current plan in the OP; I'm back to building a full impact socket set. At this point, it's only a little more expensive, and I'll worry about chrome later.

-----------------------------------------------

Again, other than the socket set, I've been working with mediocre tools, at best, until now. Everything on the list is either an upgrade, or something that I have been doing without.

I'm looking for "best bang for the buck," and figure that I'll upgrade anything that isn't getting the job done.

I'm curious, what Cman stuff let you down? My first tool sets were Cman RP stuff. I don't care for the 32T ratchets and I've broken a few but only with the help of pipes on the handles (2 1/4 drives, 1 3/8 drive). I have no complaints about the sockets and having owned some Husky (currently the same as Gearwrench) and Kobalt stuff I see no advantage to one vs the other. The HF and Tekton ratchets use the same basic design. That design was also used by NorthernTool's house brand and the current (72T Kobalt stuff). The upside to that mechanism is the very low back drag. However, you also have a reversed control tab (vs Cman, GW, Snapon etc). I think the biggest issue with the RP Cman stuff is dirt gumming up the works over time. The basic guts were used by Cman, Matco, Napa and Kobalt

That said, I have read some issues with some of the generations that weren't just dirt but were actually things not shaped carefully.

Anyway, the RP isn't the only Sears ratchet.

These use the same guts as a Gearwrench (or Husky) ratchet. The difference is only a small change in the number of teeth.

Of the common ratchet mechanisms on the market the GW single pawl based ones are my favorite. (72T-88T depending on brand). The 100-120T models have more back drag and a slightly larger head while the extra tooth count is of marginal benefit.

I wouldn't stress out too much about the exact brand of socket and ratchet you get. Odds are any will be just fine. While I have had no issues at all with my Cman sockets I have picked up new ratchets over the years. The Husky-GW are my favorite traditional handled ratchets. The Crescent rotos are the ones I use the most in tighter areas. Once I got the roto head 1/4 drive my Snap-on flex head 1/4 just didn't get used. I can't emphasize enough the benefit of having the flex axis cross the bolt axis vs being offset.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86503
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85958

One other thing I would keep in mind, at least based on my experience, most of the time you only need a very few tools to be high quality. Quite often lower quality stuff will do. The hard part is making sure you have the high quality tool when you need it. Since I'm not in a hurry I've generally gone for the lower priced stuff first then upgrade as needed. I've upgraded the ratchets mostly to get a second set of ratchets with longer handles. I've also added things like a 1" 3/8" extension. It makes my standard socket into something shorter than a 3/8" deep, about the same length as my 1/4 deeps. Heck, most of what I've done with sockets is fill in the gaps that came with my first socket set.

What's my point?
You've got a lot of decent to good tools on your list but how many do you really need now and how many need to be of what quality? Rather than blow a huge wad all at once, perhaps getting some of the lower but pliers, etc first. Once you figure out if you need them and if the cheap ones aren't good enough, then upgrade. Over time I have upgraded my channel locks to Irwin but most of my non-precision pliers aren't too fancy and were picked up when I found them on sale at some time. If you have a Meijer around they carry Tekton in house... I picked up a good, small size, 6 pc Tekton pliers set recently because it was clearance priced for $6. My current floor jack is one I bought as a throw away when I first got out of college. I figured I would get a better one when I got a garage. I'm still using it 2 decades later.

This is a long winded way to say, don't rush it.

 

[Codejack]

The pliers that CodeJack wants are not German NWS, they are China made.

My old Irwins predate the move to China, so... huh.

I guess I can get the Stanley-Proto locking pliers, but I don't know what to do about normal pliers.

I was trying to be nice about Channellock; the set I have is rusted to hell, the cutters would have trouble with copper wire, and the needlenose feel like they are going to break with any kind of use. Honestly, this Stanley set that I have been using is better:

Any suggestions for a reasonable, i.e. not $30 per pair of pliers, set?

I'm coming back to the same place I wound up at with the 1/4" sockets for my portable set; if it's all more or less the same, I'll just go get them at Harbor Freight.

 

[Codejack]

Where did you get the ribbed drawer liner? I'm looking for an easy way to arrange sockets in a drawer and that is just what I had in mind.

Thanks.

Lol, I get more questions about that....

It's ribbed vinyl floor runner from Ace (or Lowe's, or Home Depot), $3/ft and cut to fit.

 

[Codejack]

I'm curious, what Cman stuff let you down?

Heh, I've gone into this before.

My first combination wrench set was a Craftsman USA V^ raised panel set. Complete and utter garbage, but it took me a few years to realize it. Several broke, and the few I have left have pretty severe wear marks from not terribly hard use.

In the meantime, I bought a Craftsman USA socket set; sorry, I have no idea what series, I threw the entire thing away after replacing the same socket twice, and breaking it for the 3rd time on the same bolt, without ever getting it off.

Since then, I have been rather contemptuous of "Lifetime Warranties;" what good is a warranty on a tool that can't do the job? If it can do that job, it shouldn't be breaking in the first place.

I have no complaints about the sockets and having owned some Husky (currently the same as Gearwrench) and Kobalt stuff I see no advantage to one vs the other.

I had a Husky set briefly before I bought my Kobalt/Williams set; it was decent.

The HF and Tekton ratchets use the same basic design. That design was also used by NorthernTool's house brand and the current (72T Kobalt stuff). The upside to that mechanism is the very low back drag. However, you also have a reversed control tab (vs Cman, GW, Snapon etc).

I've noticed that between my HF and SO ratchets; I really like the HF ones, though, so I'm thinking about selling the GF80...

Of the common ratchet mechanisms on the market the GW single pawl based ones are my favorite. (72T-88T depending on brand). The 100-120T models have more back drag and a slightly larger head while the extra tooth count is of marginal benefit.

Yea, this is why I like the HF; it has a dual pawl system, not stacked like the GW 120XP, but one on each side, similar to the SO design.

I wouldn't stress out too much about the exact brand of socket and ratchet you get. Odds are any will be just fine....

One other thing I would keep in mind, at least based on my experience, most of the time you only need a very few tools to be high quality. Quite often lower quality stuff will do. The hard part is making sure you have the high quality tool when you need it....

What's my point?
You've got a lot of decent to good tools on your list but how many do you really need now and how many need to be of what quality? Rather than blow a huge wad all at once, perhaps getting some of the lower but pliers, etc first. Once you figure out if you need them and if the cheap ones aren't good enough, then upgrade. Over time I have upgraded my channel locks to Irwin but most of my non-precision pliers aren't too fancy and were picked up when I found them on sale at some time. If you have a Meijer around they carry Tekton in house... I picked up a good, small size, 6 pc Tekton pliers set recently because it was clearance priced for $6. My current floor jack is one I bought as a throw away when I first got out of college. I figured I would get a better one when I got a garage. I'm still using it 2 decades later.

This is a long winded way to say, don't rush it.

Yea, I guess it was hard to wade through, but I said from the outset that this would be an ongoing, slow project that I might not even start for a month or two; I'm just planning out what I need to be aiming for, how much I need to save up, etc.

And that's my attitude; the entire chrome set, for example, was "in case I need it." Everything that I need I have... otherwise I would have bought it. I'm switching from this being my hobby to this being my career, though, so I will be working on more than the Hondas and Mazdas that have been 90% of my family's cars for the last 20 years

I looked at the Tekton pliers, but they have those thin grips that I don't like. Gearwrench makes an OK set...

 

[Shark Pilot]

I appreciate what you're trying to do in terms breaking into wrenching as a career and completely understand trying to keep your costs low in the process. One thing I have learned over 40+ years of buying tools is its a totally different process than buying anything else for two reasons. First, tools pay themselves back quickly either as a DIY by saving money or as Pro by making money. Second, the lifespan is generally very long; I still use tools I bought 30 or 40 years' ago. So buying reasonably high quality tools now is honestly a very good investment especially if you are attempting to make money with them. Also, I suspect if you set yourself up properly for tax (and liability) reasons you should be able to expense 100% of the cost of your tools during the tax year against your income i.e. Section 179 expense.

I would take a step back and figure out which tools need to be top quality. Generally, a list would most likely include hex and Torx/star bits, flare nut wrenches, open end/combination wrenches, torque wrenches and screwdrivers at a minimum. Most decent sockets work adequately well 90% of the time but, in my experience, having replaced my old Craftsman sockets with Carlyle and some Koken, I can definitely appreciate better quality when working on difficult fasteners. Jobs just go easier and smoother - hard to quantify but after using Craftsman for way too long on older cars in the Northeast the difference is noticeable. And as a Pro you just can't afford the risk of stripping fasteners particularly Torx and hex heads.

I have been replacing the core of my tool set with mostly Carlyle over the past year and a half and so far I'm really impressed. If I were you, I would pick up a few sockets in various sizes you commonly use in Carlyle, Proto, Koken, Williams, SK, etc. and get a hands on feel for each brand. As far as Torx and hex bits I would look into VIM, Koken and Snap On although the few I have from Carlyle are top notch as well and are easy to warranty if needed. I wouldn't waste my time with Capri/Neiko Chinese stuff from Amazon for that stuff. You would be better off buying a few commonly used sizes of top quality and filling in with Carlyle locally as needed.

Given that you already have your mobile set I would just slowly upgrade from that as funds and good deals come along for better industrial level brands which generally are the sweet spot for quality vs cost. Also check out NAPA "real deals" quarterly flyer:https://www.napaonline.com/en/promotions/real-deals?icid=q3_sep2017_tools-equipment-flyer and online specials:https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=NAPADeals&q=Ntk%3DP_Promotion%26N%3D0%26Ntt%3DNAPADeals&isProduct=true for good deals plus ebay. NAPA online orders ship for a flat rate of $8.00 as well.

Research each tool/tool category here on this site and shop each piece hard and I think you will find you can buy top quality tools for reasonable money once to do exactly what you need versus buying huge sets of marginal quality tools off Amazon. That's my best and only advice.

 

[HanShotFirst]

Codejack,

I think you have a damn good list.
If you’re going to be a hired wrench, then tools need to make you money, save you headaches, and prevent injuries.

I really love your list; go with it! … Two things I would personally change.

Sockets & ratchets, just buy Harbor Freight
1 – They are some of the highest quality tools that HF sells
2 – You’ll save money
3 – You can spend more and end up with lower quality (Tekton is absolutely NO better, but is more expensive; admittedly not by much)
4 – Since most have a HF local, you can go there for warranty
HF’s sockets and ratchets are so good these days that unless you’re buying top shelf American; it just doesn’t make sense (to me at least) to buy anything else. I have ratchets from all the big names, but I find myself reaching for my HF composite ratchets more than anything else these days. Their sockets are as strong or stronger than anything but the best American brands. So skip trying to find “something in-between”, because there really isn’t anything in-between.

Screwdrivers – Here’s where headaches come from
I would recommend Wera or SnapOn for screwdrivers because they will prevent headaches and save you time and money. I would also recommend buying the best set of HF screwdrivers as your beaters, because you’re going to need some beater screwdrivers.


Regarding Upgrading -
What kind of mechanic are you going to be? Are you going to own your tools, or will your tools own you?
When you’re new, buy cheap but smart; and I think your list shows exactly that. If you disregarded everyone’s advice and just went with that list, I think you would be in pretty good shape. As a pro-wrench, there are some things you’re going to want/need that are the best of the best.

Combination wrenches – Your GW long patterns are an outstanding choice, and they will serve you a lifetime. But you’re going to want some ASD combination wrenches at some point (SnapOn, Wright, Williams, Proto), because they WILL end up saving you money. Upgrade when you can afford to, but hold on to the GW’s. Always nice to have good non-ASD wrenches for when you can’t mar up fasteners.

Torque wrenches…Get by with what you can at first, but at some point you’re going to want a SnapOn.

Ratchets – For every day normal wrenching, I love my HF composite ratchets; they are freaking awesome. But when things get tough, I set them down and reach for the names we all know and trust…because I like my knuckles functional. To begin with, pick up a couple of used SK’s for those really tough jobs…they’re freaking indestructible, and they can be had cheap on the used market. Eventually though, you’re going to want to pick up a SnapOn or two. I would save my pennies for a long handle and normal length SnapOn 3/8” and ½” ratchets. Those are expensive…you won’t need them to start with, but you’ll want them at some point.


Things not on your list

Ratcheting combination wrenches. They’re not just a convenience, there are often times when it’s the only wrench that’s going to get the job done. I would recommend the GW reversible set, because you have to spend a LOT of money to get better reversible ratcheting wrenches. If money is tight, start with just a metric set.

Pliers – you have them on your list, but…
Diagonal cutters, buy best quality American; I like Klein. I have found foreign made diagonal cutters are always too soft.
Knipex – You’re going to want some, so put them on your list…you’ll eventually end up with a bare minimum of 3 sizes
Channel Locks – Again, you’ll end up with these anyhow, so put them on your list.

I could go on…There will be dozens of little things you just can’t live without, but you’ll figure those out. There will also be specialty tools that you’ll think you can’t live without…some you can, and some you cant. Be smart about which tools you spend your VERY HARD EARNED money on.

 

[Codejack]

Research each tool/tool category here on this site and shop each piece hard and I think you will find you can buy top quality tools for reasonable money once to do exactly what you need versus buying huge sets of marginal quality tools off Amazon. That's my best and only advice.

I see what you are saying exactly, but at the same time, I actually need a lot of this stuff, soon, and other than opening up a credit account for truck tools, I don't see another way of getting it.

It's limiting the cars I can look at to flip, for example, if I don't have the tools to work on them, especially late model German imports, which are HUGE around here (we have a VW plant).

At the same time, do I need a top quality torx socket set for pulling valve covers and trim pieces off? I'll grab an impact socket for head bolts, if I need it, but I generally pass on cars that need that much work (or just swap engines...).

-------------------------------------------------

I guess it just seems like there are two different philosophies going on, depending on whether or not you have steady work

The first way is to have top quality everything, so it doesn't slow you down if it breaks or doesn't work. If I was working flat rate in a shop, I might go that route, but I'm not. I'm trying to get on part time at Walmart changing oil, tires and batteries (note: It pays as much per hour as my last IT job, and more than I can make as a chem lab tech) while I flip cars and try to save up to the point where I can think about opening my own shop. Who else is going to hire a 40-year-old mechanic with no training or professional work experience?

The second way is to buy cheap stuff, and upgrade the stuff that breaks/doesn't work. As a DIY'er, if a rather serious one, that has been my route so far, and I have found some amazing tools for reasonable prices.

Ratchets are a prime example: That Snap On GF80 is a great ratchet, but it costs 5 times as much as the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Pro 72-tooth ratchets, which I like just as well, and I can afford 5 different styles of. Their 1/4" sockets hold up better than my old Craftsman 3/8".

But then people list Williams as a top brand... and I wasn't that impressed. They were good, solid sockets, but I broke a few pieces, a couple of which weren't even doing something incredibly stupid. I didn't like the ratchets, at all.

Channellock is perhaps the worst example, though; I'm sorry, but they are garbage! I try to be nice because they are a reasonably priced USA company, but the set I have is rusty, dull and loose. Yet, they have a strong following, apparently just because they are USA made.

As much as I would love to buy all USA-made products, I am not paying a premium for an inferior product for that reason alone, and that seems to be the impetus behind a lot of the "tool snobbery," with an exception for European tools.

Well, I'm going Taiwan, at least until I run into something that doesn't do the job, and if it's all the same, then I'm just going to find the best deals that I can.

 

[Codejack]

Sockets & ratchets, just buy Harbor Freight
1 – They are some of the highest quality tools that HF sells
2 – You’ll save money
3 – You can spend more and end up with lower quality (Tekton is absolutely NO better, but is more expensive; admittedly not by much)
4 – Since most have a HF local, you can go there for warranty
HF’s sockets and ratchets are so good these days that unless you’re buying top shelf American; it just doesn’t make sense (to me at least) to buy anything else. I have ratchets from all the big names, but I find myself reaching for my HF composite ratchets more than anything else these days. Their sockets are as strong or stronger than anything but the best American brands. So skip trying to find “something in-between”, because there really isn’t anything in-between.

Actually, the Tekton sets are significantly cheaper, and the HF socket sets cannot be had in certain sizes, e.g. 20mm, otherwise I would absolutely load up on them. I am still looking at the shallow 3/8" 12-point, just for the rare occasion that I need one.

Screwdrivers – Here’s where headaches come from

Tell me about it.

I have a couple of HF screwdriver sets, but they are not among their better tools. I'll go with the Sunex for now, and save up for SO or Wera if I find them lacking.

Regarding Upgrading -
What kind of mechanic are you going to be? Are you going to own your tools, or will your tools own you?
When you’re new, buy cheap but smart; and I think your list shows exactly that. If you disregarded everyone’s advice and just went with that list, I think you would be in pretty good shape. As a pro-wrench, there are some things you’re going to want/need that are the best of the best.

Ultimately, I want to have my own shop/car lot, so I expect to do a rather wide variety of things. I don't do much steering/alignment or transmission work, other than clutch replacements and complete swaps.

Combination wrenches – Your GW long patterns are an outstanding choice, and they will serve you a lifetime. But you’re going to want some ASD combination wrenches at some point (SnapOn, Wright, Williams, Proto), because they WILL end up saving you money. Upgrade when you can afford to, but hold on to the GW’s. Always nice to have good non-ASD wrenches for when you can’t mar up fasteners.

Ah, there is the clue I have been looking for. OK, I'll stick with the GW and save up for maybe a decent Wright set.

Torque wrenches…Get by with what you can at first, but at some point you’re going to want a SnapOn.

HF's are $10 on sale

Ratchets – For every day normal wrenching, I love my HF composite ratchets; they are freaking awesome. But when things get tough, I set them down and reach for the names we all know and trust…because I like my knuckles functional. To begin with, pick up a couple of used SK’s for those really tough jobs…they’re freaking indestructible, and they can be had cheap on the used market. Eventually though, you’re going to want to pick up a SnapOn or two. I would save my pennies for a long handle and normal length SnapOn 3/8” and ½” ratchets. Those are expensive…you won’t need them to start with, but you’ll want them at some point.

I have a Snap On GF80 that I am considering selling and replacing with more HF stuff; I like the HF's that well.

Things not on your list

Ratcheting combination wrenches. They’re not just a convenience, there are often times when it’s the only wrench that’s going to get the job done. I would recommend the GW reversible set, because you have to spend a LOT of money to get better reversible ratcheting wrenches. If money is tight, start with just a metric set.

I have a metric Kobalt set; not the greatest quality, but I don't generally use them to break bolts...

Pliers – you have them on your list, but…
Diagonal cutters, buy best quality American; I like Klein. I have found foreign made diagonal cutters are always too soft.
Knipex – You’re going to want some, so put them on your list…you’ll eventually end up with a bare minimum of 3 sizes
Channel Locks – Again, you’ll end up with these anyhow, so put them on your list.

Yea, this is maybe the worst part of my plan.

I've been dreaming of filling out an Irwin set for years... and now I find out that they outsourced and went cheap.

I don't like the handles on Klein or Knipex; too thin and they tend to twist in my hand. You can read what I think of Channellock (the brand) above

I'm about to just go get the better HF versions and see how they work out.

Or maybe build a forge and make my own...

 

[Mr_B]

Taiwan not all the same but most of it pretty good when talking about sockets ratchets wrenches,prybars etc .
pliers are bit more hit and miss, I had some cheap 11" long nose and they been superb and doubles of slip joint pliers that china copy of german brand and they superb for loose change they cost . Got unbranded 4pc sets of circlip pliers in 7" and 9" sizes and they seem good as german ones I got . Never found a cheap good side cutter or crimper or superb vise grip so some things worth going expensive on, socketry and ratchets tend be easy get usable quality low cost these days .
As other user pointed out Napa do some good bits, some carlyle stuff is good so worth keeping eye on and the common deals so get good pricing .

 

[HanShotFirst]

Codejack,

I wouldn't recommend selling the SnapOn, even if you like the HF's more. I too like the HF's more than many of my big name ratchets (including SnapOn), but as nice as the HF's are, they just aren't as strong as a SnapOn, and when things get really tough, you'll be really happy you kept the SnapOn.

 

[Codejack]

Codejack,

I wouldn't recommend selling the SnapOn, even if you like the HF's more. I too like the HF's more than many of my big name ratchets (including SnapOn), but as nice as the HF's are, they just aren't as strong as a SnapOn, and when things get really tough, you'll be really happy you kept the SnapOn.

Fair enough, and I bought it used for $50, so... /shrug

I'm just not planning on buying more any time soon.

 

[Mr_B]

 

[Codejack]

The way I read those, they are all so close that it makes almost no difference; GearWrench beat both Snap On and Pittsburgh Pro, but by a small enough margin that it is basically meaningless.

64 ft-lb on a $20 harbor freight 1/4" flex head ratchet? All I can say is, "Wow!"

 

[Mr_B]

It gives you an idea of the standard of gearwrench 84T ratchets and how close pitts pro are too .
Gearwrench 84T ratchet sets have been silly cheap at times since 120XP been out .
Any ratchet that breaks the drive square is doing well .

 

[Codejack]

It gives you an idea of the standard of gearwrench 84T ratchets and how close pitts pro are too .
Gearwrench 84T ratchet sets have been silly cheap at times since 120XP been out .
Any ratchet that breaks the drive square is doing well .

Or the socket; I saw what happened to that Snap On adapter!

 

[jumbojak]

My old Irwins predate the move to China, so... huh.

I guess I can get the Stanley-Proto locking pliers, but I don't know what to do about normal pliers.

I was trying to be nice about Channellock; the set I have is rusted to hell, the cutters would have trouble with copper wire, and the needlenose feel like they are going to break with any kind of use. Honestly, this Stanley set that I have been using is better:

Any suggestions for a reasonable, i.e. not $30 per pair of pliers, set?

I'm coming back to the same place I wound up at with the 1/4" sockets for my portable set; if it's all more or less the same, I'll just go get them at Harbor Freight.

I've found HF pliers to be of very poor quality. The cutters deform very easily and the teeth on their gripping pliers smoosh far too easily. I have a pair of Northern tongue and groove pliers that have held up surprisingly well for similar money. The teeth are a little smoother than when new but they still grip.

Irwin's pliers are pretty good. Nothing fancy but I have a few that have held up in less than favorable conditions. The needlenose live in my go bag and are a little rusty but still work perfectly fine. I've grabbed things that should've snapped a tip off and no breakage yet. They were only $5 so I've pushed them with no damage.

Don't knock those Stanley pliers either. I was looking at a pair of Channellock needle nose in Ace and wasn't impressed by any of the three pairs on the rack. Then I saw the Stanley pair that came with slip joints for $3. They are very nearly perfect and grip right at the tip. The cutter isn't too shabby either. Mine don't have the fancy grip though.

 

[Codejack]

The Stanley slip-joint pliers are notably better than the cutters and needle-nose; the slip-joints haven't rusted, the others have.

Better than that, though, I found the Fatmax series!

Stanley Fatmax Diamond Pliers Set, 3-piece, $29.

Stanley Fatmax Xtreme Diagonal Pliers, $23.

Stanley Fatmax Groove Joint Pliers, 3-piece, $43.

If someone can find me a better cushion grip 7-piece set for ~$100, let me know!

 

[Yarpo]

Channellock is perhaps the worst example, though; I'm sorry, but they are garbage! I try to be nice because they are a reasonably priced USA company, but the set I have is rusty, dull and loose. Yet, they have a strong following, apparently just because they are USA made.

I don't care where I buy my tools from, most of my tools are made in Taiwan also. I like channel lock because they make a "good" tool at a good price.

I find it hard to believe channellock is the only rusty tools you have Most tools seem to end up rusting at some point, depending on how you store them. Maybe you got a set that missed QC? Old set? Who knows, but I do understand not wanting to buy more if you had a bad experience tho. There's tons of tools that you can buy to supplement now days, so onto the next

The way I read those, they are all so close that it makes almost no difference; GearWrench beat both Snap On and Pittsburgh Pro, but by a small enough margin that it is basically meaningless.

64 ft-lb on a $20 harbor freight 1/4" flex head ratchet? All I can say is, "Wow!"

Not that I'm trying to turn you away from HFs flex head ratchet, GW has theirs for similar price. The quality of tools that are coming out now days for dirt cheap never cease to amaze me.

Check their pliers, similar price to the Stanley and are in stock. I'd buy the gearwrench one because I like trays, but both would probably be fine.

 

[Codejack]

Oh, I've got plenty of rusty tools, but not all of them get loose and dull. The Channellocks did. I don't like the handles, either.

The HF ratchet... well, I've already got the 1/4" flex head and the 1/2" extendable, so

I may try a GW unit, but the one ratchet that I would really like, I can only find from Snap On: A long handle 1/4" flex head. The SO unit is 11" long, I can't find anything else anywhere close to that.

As for the pliers, I'm probably going to buy half of that stuff from somewhere other than Amazon, so I'll find stock, somewhere; it's actually finding out that the things exist in the first place that is difficult. The Gearwrench stuff looks pretty good, but the regular Stanleys I have are pretty good, so the next step up ought to be excellent, and they are a better deal.

I also spec'd out some SK screwdrivers; a full philips and flat set with bolsters. Not as many as the Sunex set, but I'll add on as I need things.

 

[Yarpo]

Oh, I've got plenty of rusty tools, but not all of them get loose and dull. The Channellocks did. I don't like the handles, either.

The HF ratchet... well, I've already got the 1/4" flex head and the 1/2" extendable, so

I may try a GW unit, but the one ratchet that I would really like, I can only find from Snap On: A long handle 1/4" flex head. The SO unit is 11" long, I can't find anything else anywhere close to that.

As for the pliers, I'm probably going to buy half of that stuff from somewhere other than Amazon, so I'll find stock, somewhere; it's actually finding out that the things exist in the first place that is difficult. The Gearwrench stuff looks pretty good, but the regular Stanleys I have are pretty good, so the next step up ought to be excellent, and they are a better deal.

I also spec'd out some SK screwdrivers; a full philips and flat set with bolsters. Not as many as the Sunex set, but I'll add on as I need things.

Yeah I see that extra long ratchet, thats kinda nice. My GW 1/4 flex comes in at about 7 inches or so, and it feels great but a longer one would be nice to have also.

For what its worth, I really like Stanley tools. I still use a Stanley black chrome 3/8th set quite frequently. The 3/8th ratchet I got with that kit is one of my favorites Just figured I would offer up another good example since you asked.

Best of luck, keep going!

Also, as someone who is a tech, I lucked out and was provided tools at my current job. That said, it started my love for tools so I started buying everything I'd need for home (Or a new job who doesn't provide) and I found the best way to buy was to do research, and wait for deals. I almost never pay full price for tools. Between the deals thread here and slick deals threads, I'm always hunting. Collect what you need first, you have the basics so think of up coming projects. Find what you want, for example the brake tool, find a few that have good reviews, and wait to see what goes on sale or what kinda coupons you can find. Good way to save money if you have time to amass the tools, in my opinon.

 

[Codejack]

You might check the OP; it keeps changing

As much as anything, what I am learning from the discussion is that I'm just going to have to try different things to see what works and what I like.

I wish I had the money to just buy a complete USA-made truck tool set; I also wish I had a pony

A couple of months of even low level tech work would let me save up enough for everything on this list, and I can borrow enough to buy what I need to get started. From there, I can upgrade as needed.

 

[d.mcfarland]

I also spec'd out some SK screwdrivers; a full philips and flat set with bolsters. Not as many as the Sunex set, but I'll add on as I need things.

Why would you buy plain jane SK screwdrivers? Out of all the expensive things to buy that would not be one of them in many people's opinions.

Those are no better/worse than Craftsman which are $20 for a full set.

Get the Williams. They are Snap On quality at the same price as SK.

 

[Mr_B]

ezred do a long flexi 1/4 at 10.8" . If really planning on using hard it one of those tools that probably best snapon though .

Williams hard handles are nice screwdrivers for pretty sensible money if shop about .
I do prefer textured hard handles over comfort grips for mechanical work.
Wera do some decent screwdrivers.
I have cheaper big sets that get used any which way needed get job done and best set that for proper screw driving .