Shop wiring, inside walls and ceiling or surface mount in conduit?

[NC-Shaun]

Ok everyone, Thanks to the help of many I am about to start interior sheeting and insulation on my new shop.

I decided on using osb painted throughout interior, but I must decide on how the electric will be mounted.

I am leaning towards everything being surface mounted in flexible conduit. This way I can add or remove electrical fixtures as needed. For example lighting ballast placements, receptacles, garage door openers added in later etc....

Surface mounting also makes sheeting walls much simpler, as I wont have to cutout for boxes, receptacles etc....This also allows me to just nail up all the OSB. If I ran wiring in wall and ceiling I would want to screw all OSB in so I could easily remove panels for later changes....UGH and I know I would want to add or remove stuff once I get a work season in the new layout.

Thoughts?

 

[notdavidspade]

Sounds like you have it all figured out all ready.

 

[WhiskeyRanger]

I would never use FMC on a surface of a garage. Light on the ceiling, maybe.

 

[NC-Shaun]

I would never use FMC on a surface of a garage. Light on the ceiling, maybe.

Im a total noobie here when it comes to construction so I am not up on the Lingo....What does FMC mean?

The conduit I want to use is a flexible grey poly type material, same as the shop I work out of for work.

 

[Ainsley]

I’ve had it both ways and prefer it in the walls. Just put a lot of thought into your layout and put LOTS of outlets, both 120V and 240V.

 

[Dagny]

Emt would look better and be more fun.

 

[WhiskeyRanger]

Im a total noobie here when it comes to construction so I am not up on the Lingo....What does FMC mean?

The conduit I want to use is a flexible grey poly type material, same as the shop I work out of for work.

Sorry, Flexible Metal Conduit. You may be referring to what we call Liquidtight or LFMC... Liquidtight Flexible Metal Conduit. That's a little better, but I'm not a fan of using it below the ceiling unless a flexible connection is required. FMC is just too easy to damage. LFMC fares a bit better, but still looks like trash. It doesn't take much more to run EMT (electrical Metal Tubing...thin wall). It looks way better and doesn't get smashed as easily.

Check with the inspector and see what they will approve, some places are more accepting than others.

 

[NC-Shaun]

I’ve had it both ways and prefer it in the walls. Just put a lot of thought into your layout and put LOTS of outlets, both 120V and 240V.

What did you dislike about having surface mounted electric vs in wall?

I am always moving stuff around and have no vision on how the work space is gonna play out...Irony is I can visualize a motorcycle finished while its still in boxes of parts......

 

[NC-Shaun]

Sorry, Flexible Metal Conduit. You may be referring to what we call Liquidtight or LFMC... Liquidtight Flexible Metal Conduit. That's a little better, but I'm not a fan of using it below the ceiling unless a flexible connection is required. FMC is just too easy to damage. LFMC fares a bit better, but still looks like trash. It doesn't take much more to run EMT (electrical Metal Tubing...thin wall). It looks way better and doesn't get smashed as easily.

Check with the inspector and see what they will approve, some places are more accepting than others.

So I have to hand bend that metal conduit? Looks like a bit of a hassle compared to that flexible watertight stuff.

 

[AA7483]

I did mine in surface mounted EMT and couldnt be happier. Took a while but it was fun. See pics in the link in my signature.

Edit: Heres the link. Not sure why it didn't show up.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385902

 

[NC-Shaun]

Emt would look better and be more fun.

If you wanna stop by my shop and have some fun, I will supply the materials....

I looked at the metal conduit, I dont quite see how that will be more fun. It looks like I gotta bend that stuff by hand, where the flexible stuff looks super simple. Kinda like plumbing with flexible pex vs copper. The pex made replumbing my house so much easier.

 

[NC-Shaun]

I did mine in surface mounted EMT and couldnt be happier. Took a while but it was fun. See pics in the link in my signature.

Going to check it out now. Thanks

 

[WhiskeyRanger]

So I have to hand bend that metal conduit? Looks like a bit of a hassle compared to that flexible watertight stuff.

I did my whole basement and a friend's garage in EMT with no bends other than box offsets. Just a straight run along the ceiling with a drop to receptacle height. Plus its already straight, so there is no worrying about keeping your liquidtight straight. A 6" torpedo level and you're good.

ETA: you can get one hole straps with backers or they make premade offsets instead of bending the offsets.

 

[NC-Shaun]

I did my whole basement and a friend's garage in EMT with no bends other than box offsets. Just a straight run along the ceiling with a drop to receptacle height. Plus its already straight, so there is no worrying about keeping your liquidtight straight. A 6" torpedo level and you're good.

ETA: you can get one hole straps with backers or they make premade offsets instead of bending the offsets.

OK, I will look into this option.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I prefer to surface mount everything in EMT conduit and metal boxes. In a garage, I'm always adding new equipment or moving stuff around to better suit my needs, so it makes it easy to add or move whatever I need. Plus, fewer penetrations in the wall leads to a better sealed building envelope for heating or cooling.

Any surface mounted flex looks like garbage, even if it's done semi-well. I'd run EMT, as mentioned you might not need to bend anything depending on how you run it. But benders are cheap, and once you learn how, it's fun to do. It'll make for a much nicer looking final product, something you can really be proud of.

 

[NC-Shaun]

OK, so looking at the metal conduit. I can get it in 10ft lengths. So will one of you knowledgeable fellas post a pic of what connector I use to **** 2 straights together with? I looked through Lowes selection and must be missing something as they all have a nut on one side?

 

[NC-Shaun]

I prefer to surface mount everything in EMT conduit and metal boxes. In a garage, I'm always adding new equipment or moving stuff around to better suit my needs, so it makes it easy to add or move whatever I need. Plus, fewer penetrations in the wall leads to a better sealed building envelope for heating or cooling.

Any surface mounted flex looks like garbage, even if it's done semi-well. I'd run EMT, as mentioned you might not need to bend anything depending on how you run it. But benders are cheap, and once you learn how, it's fun to do. It'll make for a much nicer looking final product, something you can really be proud of.

This is what I am gonna do, I just found the bender tool at Lowes.

I think this metal tubing looks great when done cleanly. My wiring isnt gonna be crazy. I am gonna have 6 switched receptacles on the ceiling for plug in LED shop Lights, 2 receptacles always powered for garage door openers at a later time. Then a row of receptacles above the work bench height on each side wall of shop. Of course I can add or subtract as needed. The beauty of surface mounted electric.

I am ready to get the interior of my shop done so I can move in. So far its all been money spent and the only benefit is I can park the cars indoors. I need to make it functional.

 

[teamextreme]

This thread is better suited to be in the electrical forum where you will get better response, and where this exact question has been hashed out dozens of times. Surface mounted flexible conduit is easy, but looks like **** and a hack job, IMO. Liquid tite is also damn expensive compared to other methods. If you're set on surface mount, I would go with EMT, as it sounds like you're leaning towards. It will take some practice, but there are numerous youtube videos to give you the basics. To help you with the fittings you will need, google the following:
To connect pieces of conduit together, you use a coupling.
To connect conduit to boxes, you use a connector (which has the nut).
To support the conduit to the walls you can use conduit straps. There are 2 commonly used types, one-hole straps and stand-off straps.
Connectors and couplings can be had in 2 flavors, set screw for indoor use and compression for indoor or outdoor.

 

[matt_i]

NM (romex) in the walls is definitely cheaper and less work. But as stated its not as flexible. However one can put in quite a few outlets while the walls are open and plan for many contigencies.

I put a "loop" around the shop at ~4ft level. I put a "loop" around the shop at 12" down from the ceiling for shelving, clocks, neon signs, etc. And I put L5-20 twistlocks in the ceiling. Outlets are all around.

 

[bad_idea]

I plan to route my wiring inside the walls. I will wire everything up and work in the garage for a year or two before I sheet the walls. Not only due to cost, but also to 'live' in it for a while and make sure everything works well where located.

 

[dfiler2]

I did surface mount EMT also and it has worked out really well. I was able to start using the shop and figure out where things worked best and adding a new 240v receptacle for a table saw was easy.

 

[rjn2649]

+1 for surface mounted EMT, it will look much better than flexible, and will offer more protection. Not really that hard to bend, you get to buy more tools, and learn something.

 

[Lonnies Performance]

Also wiring can be difficult to pull through flexible conduit. It tends to drag severely on the bends.

EMT is not that expensive & is the durable way to go.

 

[fsae0607]

I did surface mount EMT. Easier to install, easier to modify if you ever need to and it gives that "industrial" look. That's just me, though.

 

[NC-Shaun]

This thread is better suited to be in the electrical forum where you will get better response, and where this exact question has been hashed out dozens of times. Surface mounted flexible conduit is easy, but looks like **** and a hack job, IMO. Liquid tite is also damn expensive compared to other methods. If you're set on surface mount, I would go with EMT, as it sounds like you're leaning towards. It will take some practice, but there are numerous youtube videos to give you the basics. To help you with the fittings you will need, google the following:
To connect pieces of conduit together, you use a coupling.
To connect conduit to boxes, you use a connector (which has the nut).
To support the conduit to the walls you can use conduit straps. There are 2 commonly used types, one-hole straps and stand-off straps.
Connectors and couplings can be had in 2 flavors, set screw for indoor use and compression for indoor or outdoor.

Thanks I will google those items so i know what I am looking for. I picked up my roof baffles today. Tomorrow I am gonna go pickup the OSB. It looks like for some reason the 4x10 OSB is NOT available now for some reason. So I am gonna have to use 4x8 sheets which wasnt a big deal on the ceiling, but for my 9ft 5 inch tall walls from top to block, it kinda sux.

 

[willymakeit]

If you are a clean freak and generate a lot of dust, it settles on everything surface mounted.
If your not then emt makes a great hanger for wire when painting something. I know were not supposed to use it that way but.

 

[bad_idea]

Another good point I read in a thread yesterday - all of the conduit on the wall will limit where you can place cabinets, shelves, etc. May be minimal, but air piping, water piping, etc will compound the issue.

 

[CharlestonJoe]

Thanks I will google those items so i know what I am looking for. I picked up my roof baffles today. Tomorrow I am gonna go pickup the OSB. It looks like for some reason the 4x10 OSB is NOT available now for some reason. So I am gonna have to use 4x8 sheets which wasnt a big deal on the ceiling, but for my 9ft 5 inch tall walls from top to block, it kinda sux.

Where did you look for the 4x10 osb? I’ve never seen it at Lowes or Home Depot, usually have to get it from a real lumberyard, the kind builders use. Here in S.C. we have 84 Lumber, Builders First Source, Pro-Build and some local places.

 

[Samh]

First garage did the 110v receptacles in the wall. Did all the 220 and 3 phase in conduit surface mounted. When I sold that place, I was able to reclaim all the 220v and 3 phase wiring and boxes.

The last barn, just did everything in surface mounted conduit. I used the pvc conduit though.

In the temporary garage now, used surface mounted conduit for all the 220v and 3 phase again, because I know I'll be pulling it out when the new garage is done. New garage is going to use EMT though instead of PVC.

 

[NC-Shaun]

Where did you look for the 4x10 osb? I’ve never seen it at Lowes or Home Depot, usually have to get it from a real lumberyard, the kind builders use. Here in S.C. we have 84 Lumber, Builders First Source, Pro-Build and some local places.

I tried everywhere to find 4x10 osb for the walls. everyone wanted a 68 sheet minimum and a $300 minimum order fee. I ended up ordering 4x8 sheets. Way, way cheaper.

Im not a rich man so, it saved alot.

Electrical will be surface mounted and in EMT.

 

[rburke65]

I vote for in the walls. I also ran PVC conduit under the floor from the panel to 4 or 5 different areas of the shop so if nessarylater I could pull another circuit.

 

[8mpg]

In wall 100%. If you have to, you can run some EMT after the fact if you need to add a circuit..

Just put in lots of outlets both 110v and 220v. Wire is CHEAP...use a lot of it. In my shop, I ran 220v outlets every 12' all the way around the building. The 110v outlets are almost every 6'. I also ran all of them at the 4' height. This keeps you from bending over, its below where my upper cabinets would hang and above a 36" counter height.

If you add machines, you can add extension cords if needed. All that EMT materials will add up fast and its a lot of work pulling wire through all the tubing.

 

[BruceMc]

All that EMT materials will add up fast and its a lot of work pulling wire through all the tubing.

As an amateur that's done it both ways, I'd argue it's a lot less work overall to surface mount with EMT, and the cost difference is negligible relative to the total cost of the build. No dealing with dozens of penetrations in the wall sheathing and, after you're done, if it turns out something isn't where you want it, it's a simple matter to add, pull, or move something.

 

[nickleone]

4x8 osb. I have 9ft plus walls in my garage. I put the 4x8 sheet length ways at the top of the wall and bottom and cut a piece to fit in between the two.

Nick

 

[nadogail]

I noticed that there has been no mention of WireMold.

IMHO, it looks nice and is adaptable to equipment relocation.

 

[klassenl]

I noticed that there has been no mention of WireMold.

IMHO, it looks nice and is adaptable to equipment relocation.

WireMold is a tool of Satan himself. I ran 800 - 1000 feet of that stuff through an apartment buidling this summer. Never again.

 

[Blazinzuk]

I would do a bit of both. If you have any clue at all where you want stuff. My shop has outlets every 6 ft. More in a couple places. I also have 4 50 amp 220s 1 on each wall plus 2 30 amp 220s I wish I would have just added some conduit runs to my box, while I haven't needed to add much I have wanted to change stuff around a bit.

So I'd do in wall then add some conduit coming out of the box to make it easy to run more when needed

 

[Kevin54]

Just remember....when running in surface mounted conduit, whenever you go to paint again, it is a ***** kitty painting around it and not painting the conduit itself. Myself...I prefer the wire in the walls.

 

[BruceMc]

Just remember....when running in surface mounted conduit, whenever you go to paint again, it is a ***** kitty painting around it and not painting the conduit itself. Myself...I prefer the wire in the walls.

Why wouldn't you just paint the conduit at the same time?

 

[bullnerd]

I am doing both also.

I am running EMT around the walls for outlets.

But for long runs for specific circuits I am going through the ceiling.

I ran a 2" piece of plastic straight up into the attic from the panel.

Makes it real easy to fish romex up and plenty of open trusses to staple to.

Once insulation is up in the attic, I'll stick to EMT.

Don't know if its code, don't care.