To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Should all garage outlets be GFCI?

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
I am undertaking some wiring on my new garage. Have added lights and 110v outlets (3) and am just reading up on installing a 240v plug for a heater. Am also thinking about building an extension cord so I can move the 5000w heater around the garage where I am working. Most of the time I will be working on the car and although I don't plan to be spraying a hose around, there is a floor drain and I will be using water occasionally in my detailing. Should all my outlets be GFCI just to be safe?

Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jkeyser14

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
1,822
Location
(rural) Maryland
Yes, they should. The quality of GFCI outlets has improved tremendously the past few years as well, so you shouldn't have any false trips.
 

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,767
120 volt receptacles are required to have GFCI protection in a garage, shop, shed, but 240 volt ones are not.
 

Ray-CA

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
3,452
Location
San Diego CA
I believe that you can install a GFI in the first outlet on the circuit and that will protect all the other outlets, downstream on that circuit. If you put more than one GFI on the same circuit, they will "fight" each other and end up tripping off all the time.

Ray
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Ok thanks. Couple of more: since I have 3 of the 110v plugs on one breaker can just one of the outlets be gfci as that trips them all? if the 240v outlet runs the heater and I believe the cord is 12/3, should the extension cord be 10/3? The extension cord would be 20' max

Thanks again
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
You guys are fast! So the gfci should be in the first outlet ie the one closest to the breaker? Even if the 240v doesn't require it by code wouldn't it be a good idea if the extension cord is on the ground and possibly near water?
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
All the 110 stuff is already in and I believe replacing just the one outlet with the gfci would be cheaper than the breaker, correct?
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
You guys are fast! So the gfci should be in the first outlet ie the one closest to the breaker? Even if the 240v doesn't require it by code wouldn't it be a good idea if the extension cord is on the ground and possibly near water?

You probably don't want to price a 240v GFCI breaker (and they don't make GFCI receptacles for 240v so the breaker is the only choice).

Charles
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Charles thanks I didn't know they didn't sell gfci receptacles. So is it common practise not to have 240 gfci breakers due to cost?
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Charles thanks I didn't know they didn't sell gfci receptacles. So is it common practise not to have 240 gfci breakers due to cost?

Since it's not a NEC requirement is the most common reason they are not used along with the cost. A double pole GFCI breaker can run from $70 to over $100 depending on the brand and size. I bought one for my portable heater circuit which was a 20A Cutler Hammer CH style and paid around $125.
 

KPSquared

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Messages
2,750
Location
Wetaskiwin, Alberta, Canada
I have no GFCI on my garage. Not required by code on a detached here. So, therefore, I put none. I've never been electrocuted but I have been pissed off by constantly tripped GFCI's.

Kinda like helmet and seatbelt laws I guess. . .
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
I have no GFCI on my garage. Not required by code on a detached here. So, therefore, I put none. I've never been electrocuted but I have been pissed off by constantly tripped GFCI's.

Kinda like helmet and seatbelt laws I guess. . .

Well that's kind of obvious since you're here to write your post. :shocking:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Mabye I should rephrase. . .I've never been electrocuted badly. . .been hit a few times.

Electrocuted means dead.... there is no more or less about it. :lol: I think shocked is the word you're looking for.

We electrocute people here in Virginia for capital punishment.
 
Last edited:
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Anyone have any advice on my 240v extension cord question? ie should I use 10/3 if the main cord for the heater is 12/3?

I dont believe that GFCI's are required for detached garages here but I guess its a judgement call on whether its worth $125 for the 240v and $35 for the 110v just to be better protected. Its not cheap but if I go with an extension cord on the 240v outlet sounds like its prob a good idea

Thanks for all the advice
 

Stuart in MN

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,146
Location
Minneapolis
We don't know where 'here' is, so it's hard to advise on whether GFCIs are required.

As for the extension cord, using 10 gauge wire will cost more of course but it won't hurt anything. Whether you can use 12 gauge depends on the length of the cord - unless your garage is gigantic, it probably won't be long enough that you need to worry about voltage drop.
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
I use a #12 20ft extension cord with my portable heater and my portable A/C which both have #12 cords that use the 240V 20A circuit. The x-cord does fine, doesn't get hot and the heater pulls 16A. But, I wouldn't use a cord over 25 feet.
 

ovilla

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
2,342
Location
Plainfield, IL
A 220V 60AMP GFCI is not that expensive. I put one in for my hot tub and it was about $60 at Menards. Anyway, go on your city inspectors website and check out what code is for your city and then follow their directions. If they don't have info on their site, then just call them from a work phone (if you don't want them knowing who you are) and ask them what is code.


Why are you using 12 or even 10 gauge on a 220 line? What amp circuit breaker are you needing for the heater? Is it a 30amp? I was just thinking that if you could go a little bigger on the 220 line then you'd be set for a future welder too.
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
ovilla made a good point. I didn't think about it but if your heater is 5000 watts then that's almost 21 amps @ 240V, which means you need at least a 25A circuit. What kind of plug is on the heater cord?
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
All my 120V plug runs start with a GFCI. The old shop was the same way. In the last 14 years, I have not had a single false trip that I can remember. And those circuits have grinders, drill press, lathe, sanders, smaller air compressors, etc, etc used on them.
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Here is Toronto. The breaker will be 30 amp and the heater plug is a 6-30R. The wire out of the heater is 12
 

ishiboo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
Here is Toronto. The breaker will be 30 amp and the heater plug is a 6-30R. The wire out of the heater is 12

Just a sidenote - just because an appliance uses a certain gauge wire does not mean you can use the same to supply it. :) (Not that you didn't know that, just saying.) Appliances often use a smaller gauge wire as the distance is VERY short and temperature and other conditions are all known and accounted for.
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Just a sidenote - just because an appliance uses a certain gauge wire does not mean you can use the same to supply it. :) (Not that you didn't know that, just saying.) Appliances often use a smaller gauge wire as the distance is VERY short and temperature and other conditions are all known and accounted for.

I am new to all this so dont know much!! But learning. I just figured that since the cord on the heater was 12 that a 10 or 12 would be ok for an extension cord (and i think most guys agreed with that didnt they). I am running 10 from the breaker out of the panel to the outlet

If i am running a 30A breaker on the 240 plug would that not be sufficient for a small welder?

Thanks
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
If i am running a 30A breaker on the 240 plug would that not be sufficient for a small welder?

Thanks
That's what I use. You will read here that you can up that breaker if the circuit is used for welding only. But I get by on 30A for stick welding up to 150A so far. The inverter TIG is no problem at all, but I haven't put the pedal to the wood on that yet.
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
I am new to all this so dont know much!! But learning. I just figured that since the cord on the heater was 12 that a 10 or 12 would be ok for an extension cord (and i think most guys agreed with that didnt they). I am running 10 from the breaker out of the panel to the outlet

If i am running a 30A breaker on the 240 plug would that not be sufficient for a small welder?

Thanks

Even though the heater has #12 cord the critical info you gave later was that the plug is a 6-30. That would dictate that the extension cord should be #10 and the supply circuit should be 30A for the heater.
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Even though the heater has #12 cord the critical info you gave later was that the plug is a 6-30. That would dictate that the extension cord should be #10 and the supply circuit should be 30A for the heater.

Ok thanks. I am wiring up the circuit this weekend and it will be 30A with the 6-30 outlet. If i go with an extension cord i will use #10 wire

By the way i bought a small propane bullet heater (30-60k btu) and tested it out yesterday in the garage. It really heated the place up fast so i think it will work well to raise the heat level fast and then i will use the electric heater to maintain :thumbup:
 
OP
V

vern1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
66
Just be careful using the propane heater in an enclosed area. Leave some ventilation for fresh air.

Will do. Will leave the door or window open a bit till the heater is off. From what i saw yesterday I prob wont need it on for more than 30-45 mins but will provide some fresh air during that time. Since the heater is on the floor I will prob just open the garage bay door a couple of inches to feed it

Thanks again
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Will do. Will leave the door or window open a bit till the heater is off. From what i saw yesterday I prob wont need it on for more than 30-45 mins but will provide some fresh air during that time. Since the heater is on the floor I will prob just open the garage bay door a couple of inches to feed it

Thanks again

I figured you'd know to do that. You'd be surprised how many people don't read the instructions and die every year from carbon monoxide poisoning.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom