Show me your ANVIL
- Thread starter therealjakeg
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marinusdees
Well-known member
What's to restore??
After doing the Browse and selecting your first picture, DO NOT click upload. Click the next Browse (it will go back to the same folder you got your first picture from), select the next picture. Repeat. When you've got all the spaces filled, or all you want, THEN click upload.
I have occasionally had troubles with Internet Explorer; if so Firefox has worked. Lately, though, IE has been working fine. Be patient, it can easily take a minute per photo to upload and there's no progress indication. As long as it says "uploading" just wait.
Chris98006
Well-known member
OK Kid's here we go again-
Chris98006
Well-known member
And here's a little work with a wire brush, sanding pads, etc.
Chris98006
Well-known member
And here's the last of it-
Chris98006
Well-known member
I tracked down a solid wood core to mount the Anvil to and I wasn't comfortable with how small it was. I still finished it out, stained it, and mounted a 6" Paramo Vise to it.
Del Swanson
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2010
- Messages
- 34
This is the one you bought from me isn't it? I kinda miss it even though I don't have any room for it.
Outlawmws
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Jeff May
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Scrambler82
Active member
Found a really nice Vulcan Amvil in a Pawn Shop; 100lbs, #10, sharp edges, no work fatigue.
Looks almost unused ! (Actually weighs in at 105lbs).
The symbol on the side is the Arm and Hammer with Vulcan on the top and a US Pat. On the bottom.
Know nothing about it except that it will be a good place to work hot steel pieces.
Thinking it was from an estate and someone found it and pawned it.
I will be mounting it to a block of 2x12s, glued and bolted together.
Found a stand design I liked on the iForgeIron Site, now I just need the time to build it.
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demoman
Well-known member
Yes that is the one I got from you. It looks a lot better in My shop
I picked up two other 500# since. A trenton and no name that a friend of my father in laws had. I looked at an anvil that was 1450# last winter. I would not have believed it but I saw it with my own eyes. Most impressive. The table was 10" wide and 36" long. I think it was 52" overall and 30" high. It was not really for sale but maybe....
Exceller8
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Here is mine from Sunday:
Right at 14-1/2 Lbs, 16" long, 4-1/2 H, 2-5/16 wide.
This one was definitely from lighter rail.
I'm beginning to think someone was making these on a production basis from old track, There have been SO MANY that have surfaced...
Is there a strictly RR track thread? if not we need to start one and compare notes...
Right at 14-1/2 Lbs, 16" long, 4-1/2 H, 2-5/16 wide.
This one was definitely from lighter rail.
I'm beginning to think someone was making these on a production basis from old track, There have been SO MANY that have surfaced...
Is there a strictly RR track thread? if not we need to start one and compare notes...
rdn2blazer
Well-known member
I have two 70lb anvils. One I call my Black Sweedish beauty. She's in the neighborhood of 80 years to as old as 120 years old I believe from the website I found. They are still being made today. My other is an old one as well but not in near as good a shape. It's my beater anvil. My black beauty is art.
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RUSTY BOLTS SAYS
I think railroad track weighs about 90 pounds a foot. (RR calls it 90lb rail)
I have a couple of those big steel plates that railroad tracks sit on where they rest on the wood railroad ties (commonly referred to as tie plates)
You can walk along railroad tracks and find them lying there for free sometimes, along with railroad spikes, and other big hunks of good quality steel.
Your trespassing for number one,(Big frown from the hawkshaw) which is RR slang for cop, and stealing for number two, don't get caught, theft from RR is considered a Federal crime at times. They do frown on you walking away with their ****. Serious bunch. No matter the size of the item.
There's no mercy from a RR ****, who^s and ex fed, ex cop, ex military mp, its not worth the grief if your caught, And you cant buy it from the smelter, its all regulated and possession to sell is a big no no. Who you gonna call ?, why LEO of course, and off you go to the hoosegow.
Not to piss on Ur parade, just don't get caught, they mean business.
I think railroad track weighs about 90 pounds a foot. (RR calls it 90lb rail)
I have a couple of those big steel plates that railroad tracks sit on where they rest on the wood railroad ties (commonly referred to as tie plates)
You can walk along railroad tracks and find them lying there for free sometimes, along with railroad spikes, and other big hunks of good quality steel.
Your trespassing for number one,(Big frown from the hawkshaw) which is RR slang for cop, and stealing for number two, don't get caught, theft from RR is considered a Federal crime at times. They do frown on you walking away with their ****. Serious bunch. No matter the size of the item.
There's no mercy from a RR ****, who^s and ex fed, ex cop, ex military mp, its not worth the grief if your caught, And you cant buy it from the smelter, its all regulated and possession to sell is a big no no. Who you gonna call ?, why LEO of course, and off you go to the hoosegow.
Not to piss on Ur parade, just don't get caught, they mean business.
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^^Nine4GMC
Looks like you stole my anvil but it had a better paint job when i had it, funny looks same same and mines white also,(odd color for an anvil aint it?) pic it someday and post it
paid $100 and never used it, yet, but hey!!! i own it and its to use when the time is ready, sitting on top a work bench i bought in 1969 for 20 bucks, wood top( hard azz slats of unknown Nature) metal legs and shelf underneath, military surplus back in the day. 20 bucks would buy you sumpn worth the money in 69, or so it seems today.
Looks like you stole my anvil but it had a better paint job when i had it, funny looks same same and mines white also,(odd color for an anvil aint it?) pic it someday and post it
paid $100 and never used it, yet, but hey!!! i own it and its to use when the time is ready, sitting on top a work bench i bought in 1969 for 20 bucks, wood top( hard azz slats of unknown Nature) metal legs and shelf underneath, military surplus back in the day. 20 bucks would buy you sumpn worth the money in 69, or so it seems today.
Dennis Leigh Henry
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GINIK
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bulletpruf
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Subscribed...
AndyA
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jaker10
Well-known member
I've been looking for an anvil and today I found 4. The only thing I know about anvils is what I've read on the GJ. I found 3 150 lbs. and 1 250 lbs. He told me that's what they weigh so I really don't know for sure. He is asking $150.00 for the small ones and $250.00 for the larger one. I can see some markings on a couple of them but not well. Can't afford the large one so I have to decide witch of the small ones I want. One has had the top plate welded back on. So down to 2. With out any marking the only thing I can go on is checking for a nice ring when hitting with a hammer. He told me that looking for a good tone is B/S and not to go by that. One has a thud sound when hitting it and the other a real nice bell tone. My gut tell me to go by the ring. Any advice would be nice. Sorry this is so long.
Exceller8
Well-known member
You can also bring a ball bearing to check the recoil. When you drop it you should get a nice bounce and not a 'thud' with minimal recoil.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Take the ring and not the thud, and the recoils of a largish Ball bearing is better than a hammer. I tried a bunch of things to get the "Feel" of it, and got everything from a decent rebound, (anvil & RR track) to THUD! and NO recoil (DP table...)
ZRX61
Well-known member
That's pretty similar to mine 
Found this RR Track anvil last Friday at a local garage sale ($10)
Before clean-up:
GINIK
Well-known member
Thrumcap
Well-known member
Hello,
here is a Peter Wright anvil I picked up from a blacksmith shop the other week.
Some reference shots:
Markings closeups:
Working surface:
And sitting under his vise buddy :
I am debating whether to remove the welded hold-downs, they are very handy.
Does anyone know what the numbers are at the very base of the vise?
Cheers,
Thrumcap
here is a Peter Wright anvil I picked up from a blacksmith shop the other week.
Some reference shots:
Markings closeups:
Working surface:
And sitting under his vise buddy
:
I am debating whether to remove the welded hold-downs, they are very handy.
Does anyone know what the numbers are at the very base of the vise?
Cheers,
Thrumcap
Hello,
here is a Peter Wright anvil I picked up from a blacksmith shop the other week.
Some reference shots:
Markings closeups:
Working surface:
And sitting under his vise buddy
I am debating whether to remove the welded hold-downs, they are very handy.
Does anyone know what the numbers are at the very base of the vise?
Cheers,
Thrumcap
The hold downs are handy I would leave them.
The numbers on the anvil 1 2 8 IF I remember correctly....The 1 means 92lbs I think, the 2 is two times 8lbs and the 8 is 8 lbs. IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY!! If I am right your anvil should weigh 116lbs.
Anyway it is a English code that Peter Wright used for the weight of the anvil.
The 7726 I don't know what that means.
The Peter wright anvil is a very desiable anvil and yours is in very good condition and if a real prize to find, especially in that condition. The flat top should not be totally flat. If you put a square on it, from end to end, on edge, you will see the middle is a little lower than the ends. It was made that way because the middle will raise with repeated use. I have seen a few Peter Wrights and they all are like that, even the well used ones, So I am not sure that ole Peter had this down to a science, but a real collector knows this stuff.
Congrats, John
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Thrumcap: the stampings for weight actually are 1 (112 pounds), 2 (28 x 2 pounds) and the last # 8 is just pounds. so is your Peter Wright anvil 176 pounds or close to that?
have no idea what the 7726 means unless it was PW's way of keeping track of how many anvils they made and sold.
the stampings are different than the PW's I've owned and I've have yet to see a "Made in" in front of the England stamp on any of mine. how is the rebound??
i sold a 150 pound PW and a 6 inch Record with the quick release mechanism last year and would gladly give my client back all his Benjamins for them because they are a nice duo.
have no idea what the 7726 means unless it was PW's way of keeping track of how many anvils they made and sold.
the stampings are different than the PW's I've owned and I've have yet to see a "Made in" in front of the England stamp on any of mine. how is the rebound??
i sold a 150 pound PW and a 6 inch Record with the quick release mechanism last year and would gladly give my client back all his Benjamins for them because they are a nice duo.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JP: Anytime
Thrumcap: here's a close up of one of my PW's that you can read the stamp. if i remember correctly if it has England under the patent it was made between 1880-1920's and if the England isn't stamped on it then made prior to 1880's. usually the stamps are like this other one i have where you can barely make out some of the markings.
Thrumcap: here's a close up of one of my PW's that you can read the stamp. if i remember correctly if it has England under the patent it was made between 1880-1920's and if the England isn't stamped on it then made prior to 1880's. usually the stamps are like this other one i have where you can barely make out some of the markings.
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Speaking of Peter Wrights I was given this for free at a garage sale. I don't know anything about anvils or what can be done in regards to restoring one. So what are your guys thoughts on what I could do with this one? I was thinking about machining the bottom flat so it doesn't wobble around on my bench top. Maybe welding it to some 1/2 inch plate. As for the top can I do anything, and/or should I do anything?
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Speaking of Peter Wrights I was given this for free at a garage sale. I don't know anything about anvils or what can be done in regards to restoring one. So what are your guys thoughts on what I could do with this one? I was thinking about machining the bottom flat so it doesn't wobble around on my bench top. Maybe welding it to some 1/2 inch plate. As for the top can I do anything, and/or should I do anything?
WOW!! What a shame. Definately have the bottom machined and make a anvil type base for it. The horn could be filed smooth and the step filed to get rid of mushroomed edges. It really isn't in bad shape---well the part that is there anyway.
John