Show me your ANVIL

[vintage nut]

I'd definitely go for wood over steel. Absorbes vibration much better, and will be far less springy

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[drivesitfar]

Wood is better and a little quieter than those steel stands.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Ten feet of that at 48" high would be one heck of an "industrial" bar! (two tons of it!)

Would make an awesome bench Could probably build an A-frame to lift it enough to drive truck out from under it. Then lower on to rollers made from round bar and move it like the Egyptians did

 

[rmalkow2]

I'd definitely go for wood over steel. Absorbes vibration much better, and will be far less springy

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Wood is better and a little quieter than those steel stands.

Thanks for the votes guys. I share the feeling as well that wood is better. I was wavering because I have plenty of steel I could use but think I'll stay on the lookout for that perfect stump piece. It's how my grandfather had it mounted so I guess grandpa was right.

 

[nine4gmc]

There are free trees freshly dropped on cl here locally often. I picked up a chunk of oak tree off there myself last year for my big anvil.


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[bgarrett]

Wood is better and a little quieter than those steel stands.

My mount will be steel so I am thinking of putting rubber from an inner tube under the vice. Waddaya think?

 

[nine4gmc]

I think a piece of actual tire tread would be better but I'm no blacksmith. Maybe a rubber horse stall liner?


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[drivesitfar]

Nines: I agree with rubber horse mats that are easily bought and fairly cheap. What you don't use for the anvil you can put on the floor in front of your workbench. I just cut some up today to fill a couple gaps in my shop's floor. I tried Milwaukee circular saw and it smoked and didn't cut straight do went back to utility knife that wasn't easy but worked and looked better. Or rubber gym mats are half inch.

 

[jaker10]

I use pieces of truck mud flaps under things in my shop. Helps to stop vibration. If you check the right places you can get them for free.

 

[rmalkow2]

The other thought I had was to use a layer of wood between the anvil and a steel column but I think I'll keep looking for that right piece of tree. That sort of stuff turns up on CL here locally as well. I just got to be in the right place and time to beat out the fire wood guys.

 

[PonchoL]

I traded one of my steel fab tables for this old anvil, I would like to find out what brand and about how old it is. If this thing could talk i bet you could right a novel from the time it was new until i got it. There are some markings on it maybe someone can help me identify te mfg. it weighs approx.150lbs. it took two of us to put in my truck to get it home.

 

[PonchoL]

here is a few more pictures

 

[Cypherian]

Will look it up after dinner unless some one beats me to it my boom is at home lol work gets in the way of things

Cypher

 

[demoman]

I traded one of my steel fab tables for this old anvil, I would like to find out what brand and about how old it is. If this thing could talk i bet you could right a novel from the time it was new until i got it. There are some markings on it maybe someone can help me identify te mfg. it weighs approx.150lbs. it took two of us to put in my truck to get it home.

This anvil is an Armitage Mouse Hole made in Sheffield

 

[Tbonedog]

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And just to confirm, the 20 means?

 

[Cman101]

here is a few more pictures

Not an anvil guy but looks similar to this one. I thought this was interesting as someone put clear coat on the top working surface. At least he acknowledges that should not have been done in the posting. https://klamath.craigslist.org/tls/5284061093.html

 

[Steevo]

Here's mine:














I have had it for as long as I can remember. It is invisible, because I still don't have it . . .

 

[rsnip988]

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And just to confirm, the 20 means?

A #20 would usually weigh about 200lb

 

[PonchoL]

Thanks for the information, i cleaned it up a little more along with measurements. i looked up M&H ARMITAGE MOUSE HOLE ANVIL and read were the 1.1.16 was the weight of the anvil something like the 1st 1 = 112lbs the 2nd 1=28lbs and you would add the 16=16lbs so I'm looking at 156lbs total weight. I wonder what the 7 means on the front at the bottom see picture.

 

[PonchoL]

A few more shots.

 

[drivesitfar]

Ponch: nice pictures. the chunk missing on the edge was probably caused from a person hitting cold steel on it so best to use just hot steel on real anvils and use a chunk of RR track for cold steel. nice find

TBone: not sure what the #20 weighs, but the 200 might be the answer. how much does it weigh? nice looking anvil and almost new condition under the surface rust. congrats

 

[Tbonedog]

I was thinking 200, but I'm not sure. I can pick it up, but it's an effort. It was my father's. He had it for as long as I can remember. He is thinning out his shop so I nabbed it.


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[LX-Markham]

mine has a "20" stamped on the bottom too, but it probably is around 20lbs, LOL.
(i should weigh it tonight to confirm)

 

[rmalkow2]

S E Michigan folks, this one is for sale in Howell and advertised on CL.

http://annarbor.craigslist.org/tls/5294680080.html

 

[Cyberbear]

RR track "poor Man's anvils" have always been popular for general metal work. Cast iron anvils are subject to breakage when used improperly. Cast steel or forged anvils are better quality, usually with a hardened steel plate joined to the anvil body.
Most people assume because cast iron anvils are so big and heavy, they are bullet proof. Cast iron is brittle and no smithy would purposely strike a piece of steel on a cast iron anvil w/o the metal being at least cherry red first. I see lots of broken anvils on ebay that are the victims of people's ignorance. Working steel is a science and requires more than cave man knowledge before pounding on an anvil with a big hammer. There is lots to learn, do the research.

 

[Lassen Forge]

... Cast iron anvils are subject to breakage when used.

Fixed that for you.

Cast STEEL anvils are at least usable as long as they have good rebound. Cast Iron will break when subject to localized dynamic loading - hence the designation "Anvil Shaped Objects" (or ASO's).

 

[landrover bodger]

hears mine no idea about weight history or maker but I got it cheap on ebay

 

[Nermal43]

Picked this up last weekend. 85 lbs and I have not heard of the maker. This will replace my 3' long piece of railroad track. I wanted a larger one, but have not found one in my price range.

View media item 54592
View media item 54593

 

[Craptain]

I also don't know who made it but it sure is a fancy one.

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[kaymccampbell]

Looks like it might be a Japanese import farrier's anvil from the 60's. They do not have a bad reputation. If you are not shoeing horses, then an anvil like that would be for very light ornamental work.

 

[rohartman]

I have been looking at this thread with envy for awhile and then out of the blue my FIL calls me and ask if I would like his Fathers ANVIL? I told him I was on my way over! Come to find out he offered it to one of my BILs first but they never came over to get it. Thank you I'm in the ANVIL club! I about busted a gut putting it in my trunk, it weighed in at 165 lbs. I started to make a stand for it tonight.

 

[493mike]

My anvil, cast in Cannonsburg,MI. Never weighed it but use it a lot! I tried to get a local auto machine shop to resurface the flat but I was told they couldn't? I did my best with a 9" Milwaukee side grinder.

 

[drivesitfar]

Hart: You married the right gal because that anvil looks great. Post more pics of it with the stand after you finish it if you have time.

Mike: Your edges look pretty clean and nice work on the top. You might be able to find someone to make the top exact but save the money and it looks like a user now.

 

[Outlawmws]

Catching up on a few posts here:

landrover bodger, I like your method for keeping the anvil on it's stand. you could even leave a lip on the end pieces to keep it from lifting off the stand.

Nermal Keep the RR anvil for cold forming you don't want to do that on the real anvil...

Rohart, Cool FIL, and nice score! That's a good start on the stand! Some iron bands to hold the 4 pieces, and look at landrover bodger's for how to keep it from shifting in use, and Bob's your uncle!.

493mike, Not sure I see where yours needs resurfaced? Not for most forging. As mentioned before (again and again) only do hot forging or soft metals if cold.

• 
  Question for you: what is the Mfg name on yours? do I See a "Mc" something? That looks a lot like mine, but I've never ID'ed the Mfg for sure...

 

[Hephaestus29]

I went to look at an old paper cutter/shear/press and came home with this instead.

 

[Cypherian]

Well,

I have a square block approx. 200lbs that I have used as an anvil but ... Thanks to Twertsy keeping his eye out for me for a Mouse Hole I present :


M&H (Morgan An Henry)
Armitage
Mouse
Hole
Forge
Shefield
Warranted
Mouse Icon Hole
Patent
0.3.16

Made in 1879 Weight 0x100 +3x28+16Lb = 100 Lbs

Yep I have a signed copy of Postmans book and the add on for Mousehole :}

A very clean piece needs a little dressing decent rebound and well it is mine thanks to Twertsy finding it , acting as a go between and picking it up etc etc .

Now if he would just hang the barn door up and take a picture lol
If your curious about the Barn Door ask him :}

Cypher

 

[twertsy]

Lol.........frickin barn door.....glad I could help.

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[great white tj]

172 lb. Hay Budden, I just need to make a nice stand for it.

 

[Outlawmws]

Hephaestus, that's a miniature brass jewelers anvil, isn't it?

 

[padroo]

My grandfather was a blacksmith in 84 Pa. For over 60 years, I wish I had his anvil.