Show off your Jack(s)

[Redlordamazon]

Thanks. Yes the amount of work on the 678 adds up to about 21 hours and on the 700 I probably have 30 plus because it was in worse condition. The red paint is from Snap on. Besides the amount of time the material list adds up also.

 

[JimH74]

Beautiful!

 

[toolaholic]

Hein Werner and Craftsman trolley jack both 2 ton.

 

[Jeeper]

That sounds about right for time. I probably have around 30 hours in each one. I had the opportunity to buy a few of the YA642 (2 Tons), but waited until more of the 2.5 tons came along with the casted lettering. I've only run into 4 of them in more than a year, and I'm surprised there's even that many left around. People really haven't taken care of them considering it's the last of the USA made jacks.

If you're looking for a low profile rubber pad, I can hit you up with the link for the one I found, and how to modify it.

What paint did you use for those? Also did you reprint stickers or is that painted snapon/model number?

Looks great!

 

[toolaholic]

Teq correct 2 ton bottle jack. Used it to hold up my Scion FRS manual transmission while I put the whiteline bushing in the transmission cradle /mount .

 

[Wazzu11js]

Here are a couple of pictures of my Lincoln 93657 4 Ton. I finally got around to putting a new seal kit in it, straightening the hood, and giving it a good cleaning and lubricating everything. I bought it a little over a year ago and it has served me well already. Thanks to Steve @ Hydraulic Parts Supply for the kit and to Hiball for being kind enough to share some of his time to answer a few questions.

 

[Medic80]

Can anyone help me identify my jack? I'm trying to locate parts so that I can restore it. Don't blame me for the grey gasket material on the hydraulics, i bought it that way.

 

[paulsomlo]

Can anyone help me identify my jack? I'm trying to locate parts so that I can restore it. Don't blame me for the grey gasket material on the hydraulics, i bought it that way.

This might be a match: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/heinwernerkfloorjack2tonoldstyle.pdf

 

[CmpAnaheim]

Beautiful repaint. I have some decals for that

 

[CmpAnaheim]

Looks like new, have you used it? That’s the good Snap On

 

[Medic80]

Looks like new, have you used it? That’s the good Snap On

I have yet to use it as the hydros aren't working right. And I wasn't the one who attempted the repaint either. I really want to strip it down and powdercoat it.

 

[ajchien]

Can anyone help me identify my jack? I'm trying to locate parts so that I can restore it. Don't blame me for the grey gasket material on the hydraulics, i bought it that way.

Can you post more close up pics of the hydraulic cylinder and the rear of the yoke?

I’m just not used to the hydraulic cylinder of an “original orange” Hein Werner looking like that. Could be older than the ones I’m used to seeing.

 

[CmpAnaheim]

Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Medic80]

Can you post more close up pics of the hydraulic cylinder and the rear of the yoke?

I’m just not used to the hydraulic cylinder of an “original orange” Hein Werner looking like that. Could be older than the ones I’m used to seeing.

More photos as requested.

 

[Medic80]

I thought that the hydraulics look similar to the "K" series, but it seems to have the frame of the "G" series, but I can't seem to find the match for the hydraulics.

 

[Hiball]

I thought that the hydraulics look similar to the "K" series, but it seems to have the frame of the "G" series, but I can't seem to find the match for the hydraulics.

Hein Werner Model L

 

[Medic80]

Hein Werner Model L

Thank you Hiball, I figured you'd know by the answers in the rest of the thread. However, when looking up the pictures of the model L, the frame is not a match. The guy I bought this from swears that this a 10 ton jack? I think I'm going to need to strip off all the paint to try and find any markings to help further this hunt.

 

[an8pilot]

Looking for a Hein Werner model "M" 5/8 o.d. piston.

Mine has the plating eaten off some of it by rust in the past somehow. Must have been sitting outside with piston exposed for a while unused. But not since we had it as it was always inside since I was a kid and I'm 54 now.

Also trying to figure out how to get the big ram piston U packing on to where the old leather ram U piston packing is. The one I got from HCRCnow is hard black plastic material and not very pliable. May have to warm it in water? Don't want to change this thread so will show off my jack with a picture later after I wake up. Also looking for another Model M frame as I have another piston assembly if to reseal if I can get this one working and I need to use two jacks at once on a project.

 

[CmpAnaheim]

I know it’s not the same but it gives this orphan a home


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[CmpAnaheim]

My recently purchased Milwaukee Model 40, haven't even broken it in yet..

My dogs checking out the new delivery.

This jack is pretty rugged, I don't think I'll be wearing it out any time soon.

All settled in with the new 3 ton jack stands from US Jack.

Love it


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[CmpAnaheim]

Love it


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How long ago did you order it?


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[Snoopy50]

Needs some TLC but I like it.

 

[RWDfan]

I put this in Blackhawk tools...but maybe should have been here instead.
I don't know how to remove the other one, so sorry for posting twice.

Just bought this over the weekend. I felt like a kid finding it. I have been looking for this or an S4 for a few years to restore with my sons. And, yes, we will use it too...but gently. (I would still love an S4 too)
It is complete, functional, not broken or welded, and even has the lock and key. Really only down side as I can tell is the thin metal "Blackhawk" cover is pretty badly rust-pitted. It will be very hard to restore and bring out the letters cleanly. But it will be a fun project.
Best part is that I had a long drive (almost 10 hours total) with my oldest son and met a great guy who I bought it from. We looked at and bought some other "treasures" while we were there! It was a great trip to see the NY and PA Fall foliage.
Of course I have some questions too.
1. Any good over-the-counter paint colors? I have some codes from CRTDI for another Blackhawk he did. I have seen that International Harvester 50 (older red) may be close.
2. Anyone have a decent top cover to replace mine...let me know.

Thanks for all the info I have learned from searching on here. It is nice to know that other insane tool guys exist and like keep old USA equipment alive. It also helps me to convince my wife that I am crazy but not sick!

Peter

 

[paulsomlo]

I put this in Blackhawk tools...but maybe should have been here instead.
I don't know how to remove the other one, so sorry for posting twice.

Just bought this over the weekend. I felt like a kid finding it. I have been looking for this or an S4 for a few years to restore with my sons. And, yes, we will use it too...but gently. (I would still love an S4 too)
It is complete, functional, not broken or welded, and even has the lock and key. Really only down side as I can tell is the thin metal "Blackhawk" cover is pretty badly rust-pitted. It will be very hard to restore and bring out the letters cleanly. But it will be a fun project.
Best part is that I had a long drive (almost 10 hours total) with my oldest son and met a great guy who I bought it from. We looked at and bought some other "treasures" while we were there! It was a great trip to see the NY and PA Fall foliage.
Of course I have some questions too.
1. Any good over-the-counter paint colors? I have some codes from CRTDI for another Blackhawk he did. I have seen that International Harvester 50 (older red) may be close.
2. Anyone have a decent top cover to replace mine...let me know.

Thanks for all the info I have learned from searching on here. It is nice to know that other insane tool guys exist and like keep old USA equipment alive. It also helps me to convince my wife that I am crazy but not sick!

Peter

Nice score, Peter! Here's a thread you might be interested in: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101426

 

[RWDfan]

Here is a totally different jack that I got about a year ago. I found this old Weaver 104 on Craigslist locally. We paid $70 for it. A new leather cup seal was about $100. I ended up making one with a leather belt tip, some sockets, a pipe, and a hydraulic press. It works like a dream. The o-rings I got for pennies at my local HUGE hardware store (Hartville Hardware) I even printed up a sticker to make it look original. My boys and I use this thing constantly now.

 

[Qualitytools]

Here is a totally different jack that I got about a year ago. I found this old Weaver 104 on Craigslist locally. We paid $70 for it. A new leather cup seal was about $100. I ended up making one with a leather belt tip, some sockets, a pipe, and a hydraulic press. It works like a dream. The o-rings I got for pennies at my local HUGE hardware store (Hartville Hardware) I even printed up a sticker to make it look original. My boys and I use this thing constantly now.

That is really cool! Thanks for sharing

 

[paulsomlo]

Here is a totally different jack that I got about a year ago. I found this old Weaver 104 on Craigslist locally. We paid $70 for it. A new leather cup seal was about $100. I ended up making one with a leather belt tip, some sockets, a pipe, and a hydraulic press. It works like a dream. The o-rings I got for pennies at my local HUGE hardware store (Hartville Hardware) I even printed up a sticker to make it look original. My boys and I use this thing constantly now.

When you see the cost of seals for that Blackhawk, you may be making another one. At any rate, it would be interesting to hear more about how you made the leather seal for that Weaver.

 

[Hiball]

Couple things...

Don’t use leather scraps for manufacturing piston seals, You are asking for trouble, Also don’t pay $100 for a replacement individual seal, that’s crazy.

 

[RWDfan]

Couple things...

Don’t use leather scraps for manufacturing piston seals, You are asking for trouble, Also don’t pay $100 for a replacement individual seal, that’s crazy.

Sadly I could not find an in between option. I even emailed some companies with my size. All would have to make special. Shocked me.

 

[Hiball]

Sadly I could not find an in between option. I even emailed some companies with my size. All would have to make special. Shocked me.

Do you recall the size? I could get by with the Bore size, Height and mounting hole diameter.

 

[RWDfan]

This is the measurement info i found still in my phone notes!!
Leather cup seal 7/8 inch around (max OD) x 5/16”to3/8” “deep” cup with 5/16” hole and 1/16”to3/32” thick leather.

When I made one, I looked at several searches on Google. I ended up cutting a piece of leather about the above thickness. I heated it in very hot water until it was pliable. I then slowly pressed it into a lubricated pipe the right diameter and depth with a socket. That socket pinched the leather between the pipe. I let it dry for several days in a hydraulic press. I then cut the leather at a bevel at the top of the outer pipe. I’ve been soaked it in hydraulic fluid while still in the mold. I took it out and used a punch to cut the right center hole. I then immediately installed it. It’s been working for about 6 to 9 months with no problems at all. In all honesty the pump does not even drift down overnight. I’ve had up to 300 pounds or so on it with no issues. Having a “proper“ Seal would make me fell better. But, in honesty, this is working pretty well so far.
I hope my visual description of a physical process helps. I can’t seem to find any photos of my “jig.“

 

[Hiball]

This is the measurement info i found still in my phone notes!!
Leather cup seal 7/8 inch around (max OD) x 5/16”to3/8” “deep” cup with 5/16” hole and 1/16”to3/32” thick leather.

When I made one, I looked at several searches on Google. I ended up cutting a piece of leather about the above thickness. I heated it in very hot water until it was pliable. I then slowly pressed it into a lubricated pipe the right diameter and depth with a socket. That socket pinched the leather between the pipe. I let it dry for several days in a hydraulic press. I then cut the leather at a bevel at the top of the outer pipe. I’ve been soaked it in hydraulic fluid while still in the mold. I took it out and used a punch to cut the right center hole. I then immediately installed it. It’s been working for about 6 to 9 months with no problems at all. In all honesty the pump does not even drift down overnight. I’ve had up to 300 pounds or so on it with no issues. Having a “proper“ Seal would make me fell better. But, in honesty, this is working pretty well so far.
I hope my visual description of a physical process helps. I can’t seem to find any photos of my “jig.“

I’ll check my stock, Typical Leather seals are impregnated with binders/wax to allow them to carry the PSI required for the application. The beauty of the older equipment is the sizes are pretty standard. Give me a few days, if I have one, you can have it.

 

[RWDfan]

You’re awesome!

 

[islander50]

I just picked up this Weaver 3 1/2 ton at a local on-line auction.. looks to be a 1936 model it works and rolls great, pumps all the way up and holds .. does not leak a drop of oil .. I was lucky and got it for $58.00

 

[Shelbylex]

This is great, Islander. You got lucky! I would buy it any day for this money! Congratulations!

This is my solidly rusted version of it which I started soaking and taking apart last summer. I am close to taking the hydraulilc unit out (which will possibly determine the future of the jack). If it can be saved, I will try to see if I can buy the parts which rusted out and put it together over next couple of years...Please check if your emblem is readable and post the picture if it is!

It could be older than 1936 - I spoke to the manager of Weaver factory (sent him the pictures) - he thinks it is possibly 20s.

 

[islander50]

Hello Shelbylex.. Thank You ! I couldn't pass it up once I saw it.. I couldn't believe it when no one bid past my $58.00.. I was prepared to pay more.. as I also have a 10 ton Weaver I bought a few years ago from the same auction site.. mine still has emblem I cleaned off the grease but couldn't read anything I'll have to take a magnifying glass out and see if I can make anything out on it...
as for a date I found these photos the first advertisement is said to be an ad from 1936.. I saw another one that was said to be an ad from 1937 that looked identical .. I've also seen ads from 1935 and earlier and they had no fenders on the castors... the ad on the Weaver website shows a 1938 and it no longer has the front fenders and the "grill" is different as well. I hope you will be able to save yours they are very cool looking and deserve being brought back to life !!
If I find and writing on my tag I'll add it here..

 

[islander50]

here are a few more of the jack.. looks to have been originally Green with red fenders & possibly "grill"?? then painted silver then blue..

 

[Shelbylex]

Got to love it, Islander! thank you for Ads - I did not see the left one prior.

I have the Utility model,

If you can not read the words, try my technique - I went into a dark garage and used light at different angles trying to read from the shadows. It worked on most of the lines.

 

[islander50]

Shelbylex . sure no problem.. I see GalaxyRat did a great job detailing the disassembly of his 1938 model. one question I have.. I see yours and his has a rod coming out of the center of the handle.. mine is missing this rod and just has the hole.. looks like this is a locking rod to lock the handle in a couple different positions ? .. is this the case ? if so.. does it just lift up and down or is it spring loaded in some way ??