Show us your cool, "old" drill press

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Will do.. They're definitely hard to find attachments (except the high speed attachment and the newer hold down). As I find picts or other info or use them, I'll post.

The mortising attachment holds a chisel bit to "machine" square holes in wood for example. More later.

Cheers

Drives It..

Here is a youtube on mortising on a drill press. Its not on my South Bend, but the principles are the same..

Here are a couple of snaps from an old SBL catalog showing more detail of the parts with some descriptions as well.

Dennis

 

[Plombob]

I originally posted this in the 2015 Garage Sale thread, starting with post #263. The guys thought it should be in this thread. I'd heard of, but never seen this elusive thread.

Sometimes it pays to be one of the last customers at an estate sale. Over the weekend I got to a sale of a carpenter's estate. Turns out it was going on for a couple of days before I found it. All that was left was a drill press, chop saw and table saw. I asked the guy what he wanted for the DP. He says $80. I offer him $40. He says: Deal! By the time I got back with my truck, the chop and table saws are gone and someone's taking the water heater off the wall!

View media item 47190
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View media item 47194

Motor Tag
View media item 47192

Tag on the base
View media item 47191
Outlawmws, nine4gmc and jakemac started a discussion over the age of the press vs. the motor. The motor is dated 1948, but the press appears to be older. Just my unschooled observation - the logo on the motor is different than whats on the press.

The press was on a wooden stand and I separated the DP from the stand to bring it home. When I got home, the stand had broken apart! When I removed the broken boards, I found nails going in all directions! I wonder what kind of a carpenter that guy was! Good thing it broke up before I reattached the press, that would have been bad.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well......
you ****.

 

[jakemac]

As I said in the garage sale thread when you first posted it, I LOVE this model DP.

If I needed money, I'd sell my house, my truck, or my sister before I'd sell my 101.03622 Craftsman/Atlas drill press !

 

[drivesitfar]

Dennis: thank you very much for posting that video of some of the accessories you have for your DP. now I've got more tools on my list to find and buy.

Plomb: i agree with the guys that that motor is newer than your DP and maybe because when your DP was made a motor was the most expensive part usually and the motors were used on multiple tools in the 30's and early 40's. maybe another tool got what would have been the original motor or the original one might have just giving up the ship and was tossed for a newer one.

i think you overpaid so to relieve you of your burden maybe you would like to get reimbursed for your $40 investment and have me come pick it up?

 

[Outlawmws]

Dennis: thank you very much for posting that video of some of the accessories you have for your DP. now I've got more tools on my list to find and buy.

Plomb: i agree with the guys that that motor is newer than your DP and maybe because when your DP was made a motor was the most expensive part usually and the motors were used on multiple tools in the 30's and early 40's. maybe another tool got what would have been the original motor or the original one might have just giving up the ship and was tossed for a newer one.

i think you overpaid so to relieve you of your burden maybe you would like to get reimbursed for your $40 investment and have me come pick it up?

What a guy!

 

[Plombob]

As I said in the garage sale thread when you first posted it, I LOVE this model DP.

If I needed money, I'd sell my house, my truck, or my sister before I'd sell my 101.03622 Craftsman/Atlas drill press !

Wow! That must be some drill press!

Dennis: thank you very much for posting that video of some of the accessories you have for your DP. now I've got more tools on my list to find and buy.

Plomb:
i think you overpaid so to relieve you of your burden maybe you would like to get reimbursed for your $40 investment and have me come pick it up?

Why thank you for the offer drivesitfar. I wouldn't want another GJer to be taken advantage of, so I'll just patch up the stand and find a dark place in the garage hide my shameful purchase.

 

[tiggi]

Just got this beauty home, drove 5 hours for it but it was well worth it. And the price was very good. It's Delta DP 400 and it came with mortising attachment. I am not sure of the year yet but if anyone knows anything more about it please let me know. I'll be restoring it to its original shine soon.

 

[sailah]

Here are a few of mine:

First is my Powermatic 1200. This was one of the first big tools I bought. Got it for $250 at a school auction. Has the arc of shame but never really gets in the way. I cleaned it up, painted it and have run it ever since. I added a VFD a few years ago so I didn't need my rotary running just to use it. I also added a speed pot, jog and fwd/rev integrating into VFD which is much nicer. I need to tidy up that install and hide the VFD not that I don't need anything on the front panel.











Couple more I've had along the way

Rockwell 17" had 2 of these nice machines





A nice Powermatic 1150



And a Rockwell 17. I can't remember the details but I think this either didn't have a motor or I decided it would be a good idea to ******** a 3HP motor. Either way it was one seriously overpowered machine, ran smooth too

 

[Nursepeter1973]

I was recently scouting around for a drill press.. and the new ones just didn't cut it.
I had my heart set on something that didn't feel like an aluminium can. I asked around a couple of members and found my new (to me) baby.

View media item 48326An Australian made Brombo Waldown Type 8SN Series III press. She's got a little bit of surface rust, especially on the foot and the table... but thats now come off with a wire cup and protected with some WD40.

View media item 47956
I can't seem to figure the age but as a guess I would imagine she'd be from the 70's or early 80's? I'm only suggesting that as she still has her original bakelite switch.
View media item 48327
The motor is three phase and appears to be the original but I cannot seem to find an information plate.

View media item 48325
I've had the 3 phase run to the garage (luckily I already had it up to my meter box) and she is purring like a dream.

My plans with her is really only to take off the rest of the surface rust on the sliding components like the handle and the motor adjustment and to degrease the exterior to remove crud. I'm liking the patina as it is.
I'm also looking to mount a work light in the casting recess in the head.

Thanks to BBChevro for pointing me to this page.

 

[Fretters]

I can't seem to figure the age but as a guess I would imagine she'd be from the 70's or early 80's? I'm only suggesting that as she still has her original bakelite switch.

I'd be tempted to think more around 60's at the latest.

 

[Nursepeter1973]

Older the better! I just thought the 70's as the pulley cover wasn't cast. Might try and send an email to Waldown and see if they can give me some info regarding the production run

 

[Outlawmws]

Odd that the motor has not info plate... have you tried taking off the cover where the wires enter the motor? Some motors were marked there and maybe someone replaced it upside down...

Great looking find!

 

[ToddG]

Looks a lot like my old Boice Crane!
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/toddgreenhagen/media/Drill%20Press_zpstcgtgl4a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg565/toddgreenhagen/Drill%20Press_zpstcgtgl4a.jpg" border="0" alt="Boice Crane photo Drill Press_zpstcgtgl4a.jpg"/></a>

 

[joe.striper]

Restored my Walker Turner model 1500 drill press today. I think it came out OK. Original 1/2 hp motor. Great bearings, Jacobs chuck.

 

[joe.striper]

Got my Rockwell production drill press setup in my shop. Below it is the cabinet that it came with (which weighs 125 lbs by itself). I painted the cabinet up and loaded all the drill bits into it that it came with. Whats not pictured are the 2 sets of additional, normal sized bits, that also came with this.

The head on this one 'floats' due to a counterweight inside the shaft. I loosen a lever and it moves left and right, up and down with one finger. Really cool.

3/4 hp motor, single phase. Jacobs chuck, 5/8ths. Out of the Smith and Wesson gun factory. Also this came with a set of left hand drill bits, a full set of various easy outs AND the coolest thing is that this drill has forward, nuetral and reverse controls on the side.

 

[exmaxima1]

AND the coolest thing is that this drill has forward, nuetral and reverse controls on the side.

You don't see many single phase machines with reverse---that is very cool...

 

[txvwnut]

Picked this up a couple of weeks ago, purchased off of eBay with a local pick up to me. Walker-Turner I forget what year it is I think 40's or 50's.

 

[Outlawmws]

Joe, we need more/better pics of the DP!

"Neutral" means what? I'm assuming mid swtich position is stop with electronic F/R, or does it have a mechanical forward/reverse with Neutral?

Neat that its out of the S&W plant!

 

[zkling]

It most likely just has a drum switch.

 

[bubinga]

Looks fine to me for $85. Nice job cleaning it up.

l think it's pretty cool too.

 

[joe.striper]

Joe, we need more/better pics of the DP!

"Neutral" means what? I'm assuming mid swtich position is stop with electronic F/R, or does it have a mechanical forward/reverse with Neutral?

Neat that its out of the S&W plant!

Outlaw here's a pic. It is an electric barrel switch.

I'm looking for a way to mount a good light to it as well.

Seller worked at S&W and when they shut down the shop guys said they could keep their DPs but when they came in the next day they were GONE as the company sold them. Fast forward 15 years and the seller was welding at a plant in Hartford CT and walks into the basement and there are all the DPs in storage. He actually found his machine (via the badge #) and negotiated to buy it. Now I have it.

 

[joe.striper]

last DP posting for a while...maybe.

Here is the CMan model 150 dp i just picked up for $75. Just beautiful all original shape. Original motor, even the original CMan belt. Work table is almost perfect. Has a light. Patina is sooo nice all I'm going to do is clean off the grime before I sell it. I have a line on a benchtop like this one with the additional pull for super low speed. If I can get that I'll add it to this one.

 

[jakemac]

Joe - That reversing switch looks like the one I picked up last year, but missing the data plate. If your's isn't the same model, it may be from the same family.

Here are some pictures of the switch I have, so you can see what your data plate might look like.

 

[nine4gmc]

Damn Joe, you are the DP man!!! Love that Delta and the base cabinet is WAY cool!! Great story as well!

 

[joe.striper]

I'm so very excited to find out that my XY drill press table was made by Atlas/Craftsman and it is model 150. I didnt know that until this morning. I am thrilled needless to say.

http://millingaccessories.biz/2014/12/05/atlas-craftsman-drill-press-xy-milling-drilling-table-150/

 

[joe.striper]

Restored my Heinrich dp vise and cman xy table today and mounted them to my Rockwell DP. I have to say that I am officially done with drill presses. I LOVE my current setup and since I only have 110v in the shop i dont see me upgrading anytime soon.

The Heinrich isxa beautiful piece of engineering and the XY table is unbelievable.

 

[nine4gmc]

Awesome job!

 

[Mccool]

Here's my 1943 delta Milwaukee after restoration. I used a treadmill motor for variable speed control.

 

[bubinga]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Nice, MC-60 Speed Controller?

 

[Mccool]

Thanks, yes. 2.5 hp motor (or so they claim, probably more like 1 actual.hp) with the mc-60 controller. It has no problem drilling large holes in 1.5" steel. I'd like to add a reverse feature but haven't figured it out yet.

 

[schor]

Thanks, yes. 2.5 hp motor (or so they claim, probably more like 1 actual.hp) with the mc-60 controller. It has no problem drilling large holes in 1.5" steel. I'd like to add a reverse feature but haven't figured it out yet.

Nice press. Doing the reverse switching on a dc motor is easy, just flip the wires using a double pole double throw switch.

 

[bubinga]

Nice press. Doing the reverse switching on a dc motor is easy, just flip the wires using a double pole double throw switch.

wire it up like this

 

[Mccool]

Thank you both for the advice. I have previously tried to wire in reverse, but was unsuccessful. I understand the picture, but am confused with my wiring. I have two wires running from my current switch, a blue wire that runs directly to the motor and a black wire coming from the power cord. I see the setup pictured has 2 power wires and 2 wires to the motor, do I just splice an extra wire into both of mine? Hopefully I'm making sense with my description. I will attach a picture of my current wiring.

 

[bubinga]

AC 1 and AC 2 run to you 110 input, with maybe a 2 contact switch wired in series with the blue wire for your power on off. nothing to do with the motor wiring.
Look at this one I made up, see if it makes sense.
I have read cautions not to run the equipment ground from your power cord to the chassis of the board. I run my power cord ground wire straight to the motor frame, bypassing the board.

Now, My turn, l hope my picture makes sense.
A+ OR A- from the board, to one of the center terminals of the DPDT switch.
The other A+ OR A- to the other center terminal of the DPDT switch.
Criss-cross wires corner to corner as shown,
Now, either the Top 2 OR the Bottom 2 of the (*EDIT DPDT switch) go to the DC motor as shown.

*It is a Double Pole Double Throw switch.

Some guys will power tap, throwing the switch under power, with no Ill effects, but other boards, (KBIC-120) caution you to turn off A/C power, OR Dial your Speed control to "0" before switching directions.
I am not really sure.
I usually (Always am) cautious, and dial down to "0" before switching directions.
Hope This makes sense.

EDIT,
In my switch picture, I named the center DPDT switch wires, "Power in"
Maybe that caused confusion. Not A/C power, as you can see now,
But D/C motor Power from the board.

EDIT # 2
If you see a picture or chart elsewhere, showing the 2 center wires going to the motor, and the 2, Top OR Bottomwires coming from the board A+ and A- this is correct also, it will work both ways. But I usually do it the way shown In my picture, to keep it simple.

EDIT.
Note,
This Information applies to D/C Motors Only, to reverse them, and not
Normally to A/C motors.

 

[Mccool]

AC 1 and AC 2 run to you 110 input, with maybe a 2 contact switch wired in series with the blue wire for your power on off. nothing to do with the motor wiring.
Look at this one I made up, see if it makes sense.
I have read cautions not to run the equipment ground from your power cord to the chassis of the board. I run my power cord ground wire straight to the motor frame, bypassing the board.

Now, My turn, l hope my picture makes sense.
A+ OR A- from the board, to one of the center terminals of the DPDT switch.
The other A+ OR A- to the other center terminal of the DPDT switch.
Criss-cross wires corner to corner as shown,
Now, either the Top 2 OR the Bottom 2 of the SPDT switch go to the DC motor as shown.

Some guys will power tap, throwing the switch under power, with no Ill effects, but other boards, (KBIC-120) caution you to turn off A/C power, OR Dial your Speed control to "0" before switching directions.
I am not really sure.
I usually (Always am) cautious, and dial down to "0" before switching directions.
Hope This makes sense.

EDIT,
In my switch picture, I named the center DPDT switch wires, "Power in"
Maybe that caused confusion. Not A/C power, as you can see now,
But D/C motor Power from the board.

EDIT # 2
If you see a picture or chart elsewhere, showing the 2 center wires going to the motor, and the 2, Top OR Bottomwires coming from the board A+ and A- this is correct also, it will work both ways. But I usually do it the way shown In my picture, to keep it simple.

wow thank you so much for taking the time to write that up and help me out! After looking at my wiring and your post for 10 or 15 minutes, surprisingly I get it (not because you didn't explain it well but because I'm an idiot when it comes to wiring and electronics)

The only other question I have is, what do I do with the black wire from the power cord that goes to my current switch? Do I run it to "AC1" and get rid of the blue wire entirely?

Thanks again

 

[bubinga]

Your welcome.
I am not sure where you have the blue wire coming from, is there 2 blue wires running out of the motor, and also the red and black out of the motor?
White wire from A/C power in goes straight to AC-2,
and the black wire from the power A/C cord in, goes to one side of a SPST (single Pole, Single Throw, 2 contact) switch. And the other side of the SPST switch goes to the AC-1 on the board. (the power switch) It's just in line with and interrupts and establishes, the power to AC-1.

Now if there are 2 blue wires coming out of the motor, they also go in series with the Black Power wire, But you can just cap them off, they are a thermal protect if the motor would get too hot, it would open the connection to AC-1.
You probably won't be running the motor too long at a time for it to get hot.
EDIT,
The Reverse switch is always a Double Pole Double Throw switch, (DPDT)

(I called it a SPDT {Single Pole Double throw} in error before one time.)
*** Use a Center Off DPDT switch as well)**

And make sure it is sustained contact switch. IOW's you flip it one way it stays there.
You can flip it to center, it is OFF. You flip it the other way, it stays there.

 

[bubinga]

Mccool PM Sent

 

[Mccool]

Yes, 2 blues, a red and a black come out of the motor.

I believe it was just a thermal protection for the motor. i pulled the blue wires from the motor and ran a blue wire directly from the switch to AC1 and everything still worked as normal.

So with that being the case, can I remove the blue wires entirely and run the black wire from the power cord directly to AC1?

 

[bubinga]

"So with that being the case, can I remove the blue wires entirely and run the black wire from the power cord directly to AC1?"
You can remove the blue wire entirely, Or leave it in, (hooked up)
yes, its a thermal protection for the motor.
You still want a 2 terminal On Off, switch somewhere between the A/C Hot In(Black wire) and A/C 1 on the board.
Unless you just wanted to plug it in, and unplug it "as you switch" But for safety,
I would want a On/Off switch in the A/C 1 (or sometimes called L 1) wire, and also about a 20 Amp Fuse Before the On/Off switch, in the Black wire.


EDIT.
Note,
This Information applies to D/C Motors Only, to reverse them, and not
Normally to A/C motors.