Show us your cool, "old" drill press

[Tedley]

I'm afraid I have no before picture other than the one in my head of this thing in the dirt tied to a little kids bicycle in a yard full of stuff.

 

[larry_g]

My Buffalo sensitive drill press. Vintage 1921. In talking with Buffalo the gal said this was a one year only machine. It has a counter weight in the column to balance the spindle support. I got the machine in parts and it had gone through a flood. I had to make the motor pulley, replace the spindle bearings and the motor. The spindle was bent and I was able to turn a new JT33 taper on it to straighten things out. It has been in use now for a few years in my shop.

It looks to be a relative of the Italian beauty above.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[nine4gmc]

That's awesome Larry!


Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk

 

[capo602002]

South Bend DP

South Bend DP.
Purchased for $50
Has the multi speed middle pulley also.

 

[jakemac]

Looks great, but that white paint won't be easy to keep clean.

 

[RHJO51]

I recently posted about a Altas drill press I purchased, and then I just found this 196? Craftsman 150 DP I just couldn't pass up. Looks to be all original, works well and has the optional Vari-Slo. Need a real good cleaning and degunking. Came will a cool old Craftsman vice too. Shown as unloaded off my truck. - Jim

 

[McBrownie]

Re: South Bend DP

South Bend DP.
Purchased for $50
Has the multi speed middle pulley also.

Capo, nice job on that drill press. I like your automatic hacksaw too. Any more information about that?

 

[454ragtop]

My Buffalo sensitive drill press. Vintage 1921. In talking with Buffalo the gal said this was a one year only machine. It has a counter weight in the column to balance the spindle support. I got the machine in parts and it had gone through a flood. I had to make the motor pulley, replace the spindle bearings and the motor. The spindle was bent and I was able to turn a new JT33 taper on it to straighten things out. It has been in use now for a few years in my shop.

It looks to be a relative of the Italian beauty above.

lg
no neat sig line

Larry, I think I have a very similar drill, A Buffalo 14, though mine is a floor model. Has a pretty big tee slotted table with a 2 stage screw to raise and lower, although with the sliding head, I don't think I've ever moved it. One of my favorite drill presses. Here's a pic I have on this computer, don't seem to have one handy of the entire machine. The belt tension knob and ability to reposition the quill handle is pretty trick. Crazy heavy for a 14" drill press.
Jim

 

[454ragtop]

Just picked up another Delta 17 that I didn't really need, but it has a never before seen by me power down feed. 1942 vintage, I plan to put the feed on my 1943 model I'm in the midst of restoring. Check out the 2 tone paint and pin striping, somebody had too much time on their hands.
Jim

 

[larry_g]

Larry, I think I have a very similar drill, A Buffalo 14, though mine is a floor model. Has a pretty big tee slotted table with a 2 stage screw to raise and lower, although with the sliding head, I don't think I've ever moved it. One of my favorite drill presses. Here's a pic I have on this computer, don't seem to have one handy of the entire machine. The belt tension knob and ability to reposition the quill handle is pretty trick. Crazy heavy for a 14" drill press.
Jim

Yes it is the same machine as mine is a model #14 also. The floor model was made for a few years, only the table top model was a 1 year machine. It's been some years ago but Buffalo was able to send me a fax copy on the manual at that time with a parts break down.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

I'll be trying to get my recent purchase a bit of attention. One of the things I'd like to address is the arc of shame drill marks in the table surface. Is this just a matter of welding them shut or are there more preferred methods?

 

[zkling]

Nice machines 454Ragtop! Are you up to the double digits on drill presses yet?

 

[454ragtop]

Nice machines 454Ragtop! Are you up to the double digits on drill presses yet?

Not quite, but oh so close, have 9. But I have someone who wants one of my Delta 17's, so hopefully I'll be down to my last 8 pretty soon.
Jim

 

[454ragtop]

I'll be trying to get my recent purchase a bit of attention. One of the things I'd like to address is the arc of shame drill marks in the table surface. Is this just a matter of welding them shut or are there more preferred methods?

Weld or braze will work, I've even had some success welding with my mig with the same wire and gas used for mild steel. Wouldn't try it for a structural repair, but seems to work OK to fill in some holes. On a recent table rehab, I mixed fine cast iron filings with JB Weld to fill a couple holes, worked OK, but not invisible like I had hoped.
HTH, Jim

 

[S4cruiser]

This guy popped up on my local CL today. I was hoping to go check it out but the seller insisted that if I wanted to check it out then not to come without being sure I was going to buy it. Something about people wanted to talk about tools but not being an actual buyer.

I told him I was a buyer but wanted to see it in person before committing to buy it. Guess that didn't fly with him as someone else told him they would buy it sight unseen, but not until Saturday. Whatever...

Was $300 bucs way overpriced?

 

[jakemac]

That's a production press. Often they would be bolted to a long table with more of their friends on the same table. The head would then be moved up and down to get the height, then left there for the entire run of production. Each head was committed to one specific job, the other heads would drill the other holes.

Interesting that this one is by itself on a single size table.

It's a good machine, but I think you would get tired of moving the head each time you used the machine, instead of the table. $300 seems a little high even though it looks to be in great shape.

 

[Outlawmws]

IMO yes; and you are better off without dealing with a seller of that nature. Anyone insisting on "commit to buy, sight unseen" is either hiding something, or a maroon.

 

[S4cruiser]

Agreed. Think he did me a favor.

I've been looking for a bench top model to restore but in the back if my head figured this might be not the best choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[454ragtop]

Seller sounds like a *****, but if you have interest, tell him yes you want to buy it. When you get there, either buy it, or explain to him some feature or the condition isn't what you were expecting and either negotiate a lower price or leave. What's he going to do, make you buy it?
Ran into something similar on a Snap On top chest a couple months ago. Called, asked the seller some questions about it, including did he have the keys, and did the drawers all work good? He replied yes. When I called back to set up a time to look at, he asked me if I was willing to pay his $350 asking price. Told him yes, even though I didn't like the question, seemed the same as if I low balled him before looking at it. Got there, only 1 key, 1 drawer worked real stiff, 1 wouldn't hardly move at all. Offered $300, he said I thought you said you'd pay the $350. I said I thought you said you had the keyS and all the drawers worked fine. Went round for a while, him mentioning free slides from Snap On, me mentioning I was leaving. Ended up taking the $300.
Jim

 

[S4cruiser]

I contemplated going that route...but the price seemed high anyways. He'll likely call me back after the guy that said he'd buy it doesn't show or lowballs him.

 

[zkling]

That's a production press.

Interesting that this one is by itself on a single size table.
.

It's a bench style production drill press. Not a good choice for the guy working in his garage as a general drill press.

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

Weld or braze will work, I've even had some success welding with my mig with the same wire and gas used for mild steel. Wouldn't try it for a structural repair, but seems to work OK to fill in some holes. On a recent table rehab, I mixed fine cast iron filings with JB Weld to fill a couple holes, worked OK, but not invisible like I had hoped.
HTH, Jim

Thanks Ragtop, I'll try welding, it's nothing structural.

 

[Bob Hall]

Here's my early 1960s Powermatic 1200. It's a real well made machine. Runs on 240 3 phase from my rotory phase converter. These are pictures of it when it first got here. There are now three big bolts in the hub to replace the missing handles. I have also sourced a set of originals and lost them in the mess! They'll come back....

 

[Bob Hall]

Here's an old Washburn Shop Drill Press from the late 1800s. I bought it cheap 'cause it was ugly. Then sold it kinda high to a fellow old machine junkie, cause it was purty. That funded the Powermatic 1200 above. Some time this process works. Sometimes it doesn't .

 

[Evergreentree]

Hey guys!
I'm in the market for my first drill press. I'm looking to drill metal and wood, and do some wire wheeling and sanding with it (don't know if this is a no no). I've decided on a stand up, and older.

Down the street is one for sale, but the guy who is selling is at work and has no info on it until he gets home.

Unit looks "older", but not very old.

Can anyone identify and give pros /cons by these aweful pictures?

Thanks guys, drill press newbie here...

 

[Evergreentree]

Only other shot

 

[Evergreentree]

By the way, beautiful stuff on here guys!

 

[exmaxima1]

This guy popped up on my local CL today. I was hoping to go check it out but the seller insisted that if I wanted to check it out then not to come without being sure I was going to buy it. Something about people wanted to talk about tools but not being an actual buyer.

I told him I was a buyer but wanted to see it in person before committing to buy it. Guess that didn't fly with him as someone else told him they would buy it sight unseen, but not until Saturday. Whatever...

Was $300 bucs way overpriced?

Looks kinda like a Walker Turner to me, and I'm not a big fan. Hard to find bearings and other unique parts. My old WT "Light Heavyweight" press had a round base just like that. I'd say $100 is more than fair.

 

[S4cruiser]

Hey guys!
I'm in the market for my first drill press. I'm looking to drill metal and wood, and do some wire wheeling and sanding with it (don't know if this is a no no). I've decided on a stand up, and older.

Down the street is one for sale, but the guy who is selling is at work and has no info on it until he gets home.

Unit looks "older", but not very old.

Can anyone identify and give pros /cons by these aweful pictures?

Thanks guys, drill press newbie here...

Looks like a walker turner. I have no expertise in these but others here should chime in.

 

[Evergreentree]

Thanks a lot s4. Anyone else confirm? I heard they are good with the little research done, but reading above post, hard to find parts..

 

[jabberwoki]

Here's an old Washburn Shop Drill Press from the late 1800s. I bought it cheap 'cause it was ugly. Then sold it kinda high to a fellow old machine junkie, cause it was purty. That funded the Powermatic 1200 above. Some time this process works. Sometimes it doesn't .

Nice job Bob, that belt redirection is cool.
How`s it sound?

 

[Bob Hall]

Jabberwoki,
It's surprisingly quiet and smooth. I believe the conversion to the electric motor is very old.

 

[Evergreentree]

So because I'm a drill press rookie, can you guys provide a basic list of suggested drill press brands? I know that's a loaded question, but I'm looking for general suggestions on brands that have replaceable parts, are heavy duty, all rounders for a lifetime or 2 of use. I respect the opinions very much of the gj members, and I have never been steered wrong. Sorry to not provide a cool "old" drill press on this thread, but with your help, I'm hoping to. You guys following this thread are the ones to ask!

I'm seeing lots of delta, craftsman, wturners, and Rockwells for sale...

This floor model craftsman is local, and way way cool. Perhaps parts for old craftsman are more available then w turners?

 

[Outlawmws]

Late 30's early 40's DP; Atlas built The only thing I know of that is difficult to come by is the to spline shaft cover. This was classed as an "Industrial" DP in the Sears catalogs of the day. Since they were sold heavily though the war years and before, parts are mostly available on the used market.

The main thing is to see if it is missing anything significant, Ask about the shaft cover, make sure the quill return spring is not broken and check the quill for outer wear, slop, etc... and of course the "Arc of Shame"

 

[Outlawmws]

Delta, Craftsman and Rockwell are all generally good bets. the key is do you plan on drilling in steel? If so how large? for wood any will do. The 4-5 speed drills are too high speed for larger holes in steels (Soft metals this is less of an issue)

Speed adjustment has several solutions: A third pulley set (these are not available new unless you make one,) or a variable speed motor. I converted mine to a treadmill motor and love it. A three phase motor with a VFD will also do the job.

 

[Evergreentree]

Outlaw- good info as always. Is the DP you are referring to the craftsman I posted?

Edit - the first picture is the atlas. The shaft is what is sticking out the top of the machine, and there was a cover on it I assume you're referring to...? Are atlas good dp?

Now I need to look up the part names of the drill press to understand better the machine, and how to check for flaws mentioned when purchasing. I would like the capacity to drill through anything. Steel most definitely.

 

[Outlawmws]

There is nothing really wrong with the Atlas built DP's. Atlas also made Lathes and Mills so knew machine tools... Most Craftsman DPs are usually ball bearing, where the Sears Dunlap DPs are often bushing (maybe the bottom is a real bearing...) the larger late 40's 50's 50's King-Seeley built DPs are very well regarded (with the large 2-3/4" columns) especially if they have the 3rd pulley set.

Quill slop is fairly easy: drop it down about 1/2 way and see if it wiggles in any direction.

Spindle runnout isn't hard either; get yourself a piece of straight ground drill rod and chuck it up, turn the DP on low and use something to get in close to the tip of the drill rod to "indicate" it. Does it wobble? if so how much? You need a dial indicator to measure this, but this is a quick dirty test for a bent spindle, and you can "measure" by eye a tiny amount of runnout...

HOWEVER: it could also be a very dirty or damaged chuck, so if you see it wobble, "indicate" the OD of the chuck to see if it also wobbles. This is not definitive as they don't try to hold that to some tight tolerance, but its indicative. if you can access it try the same on the taper adapter many DPs have between the chuck and spindle.

 

[Evergreentree]

Thanks outlaw. I'm going to do my research. So the atlas you are referring to the first picture I posted? Or the 2nd craftsman (built by atlas?)

 

[Outlawmws]

Thanks outlaw. I'm going to do my research. So the atlas you are referring to the first picture I posted? Or the 2nd craftsman (built by atlas?)

The second Craftsman. (Note the "long C" underlining Craftsman; that was Craftsman's logo (mostly) from mid 30's to mid 40's.

 

[Evergreentree]

I notice the underlying C now. It's good looking.

So then is the first one I posted a w.turner? bad pic I know outlaw