Show us your cool, "old" drill press

[Smokeshow69]

Smokeshow69, thanks but I think you have me confused with someone else. I did not show any pics of the table or foot. I have been reading the Craftsman Drill Press Thread, I think I am up to page 48! Lots of good reading and experience here. The last thing I refurbished was a 1953 F100 Pick-up and that was in 1977. i feel newer than a kindergartener who showed up early for the first day of class. Maybe I can help someone here at some point, perhaps on the HVAC thread until I get my feet wet up to my knees with tool refurbs.

Sorry about that you are correct!

 

[Smokeshow69]

I have a craftsman King Seeley drill press that I bought a couple years ago and fixed up, and I just found another one nearby for cheap so I bought that one. The base is a little different, its wider, but the front edge is shorter than the drilling platform. On my first one, the base matches the platform in size.
My original one has an id tag near the base, and it dates to 1947. my new one doesnt have a tag, I suspect it is just a bit newer. The seller thought 1950s.

The new one also came with a table, I think it might have come with it, or at least it dates to the same era...the cast iron base of the table is HEAVY. the table legs look suspiciously like the drill press' pole. I unbolted it from the table for now, not sure I will use the table, its seems like it may tip over....meant to be bolted to the floor perhaps.
Anyway Ive just started to tear the new to me press down. I has all three original handles, something my other one did not. Also the pulley is in better shape.

heres my latest drill press


Heres the table







Heres my other one which I use all the time:



I had since made some handles for it, added a light etc.

Hello and Welcome! Your table that came with your new press if for a craftsman jointer... a nice table but definitely a bit tippy. I wouldnt use it without stabilizing it for sure! In terms of the drill press foot... I am thinking that is perhaps actually older than the drill press ?? Perhaps made by atlas ? I can assure you it isnt original to the press. I would strongly recommend you check out the "craftsman drill press thread" started by user Franklee... it is dedicated mostly to this style of 80/100/150 model drill presses made by King Seeley/Emerson... You will find alot of great answers/stickies on the very first page.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...27480&page=223

 

[FrankLee]

Ooops, wrong thread.

 

[Craptain]

Ooops, wrong thread.

You're welcome in this thread too Frank. [emoji106]
There are many references to your thread in any case.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Hoorn]

Picked this mid 40s DP up today off CL for $100.
Could not believe my luck as far as all the accessories. The table lift will be restored and most likely go on my 150. Rare full pulley cover, MSA center pulley, and still had original grease ****** cap.
P/O painted the column red "so that it would not rust"
Motor is not not original to DP, a 1950, but runs as smooth as possible.

 

[JZiggy]

Picked this mid 40s DP up today off CL for $100.
Could not believe my luck as far as all the accessories. The table lift will be restored and most likely go on my 150. Rare full pulley cover, MSA center pulley, and still had original grease ****** cap.
P/O painted the column red "so that it would not rust"
Motor is not not original to DP, a 1950, but runs as smooth as possible.

Ya dun struck gold, Bubba!

 

[crguy]

Picked this mid 40s DP up today off CL for $100.
Could not believe my luck as far as all the accessories. The table lift will be restored and most likely go on my 150. Rare full pulley cover, MSA center pulley, and still had original grease ****** cap.
P/O painted the column red "so that it would not rust"
Motor is not not original to DP, a 1950, but runs as smooth as possible.

That table lift is a real prize. Moving drill press tables up/down by hand is a pain.

 

[lafester]

You prefer the 150 over the older atlas?

Picked this mid 40s DP up today off CL for $100.
Could not believe my luck as far as all the accessories. The table lift will be restored and most likely go on my 150. Rare full pulley cover, MSA center pulley, and still had original grease ****** cap.
P/O painted the column red "so that it would not rust"
Motor is not not original to DP, a 1950, but runs as smooth as possible.

 

[Hoorn]

You prefer the 150 over the older atlas?

The Atlas is new to me, but so far all of my experiences with the 150 have been very positive. I put a lot of time and effort into getting my 150 where I want it aesthetically and operationally, and have been looking for a table lift for quite a while without luck. It just so happened when I finally found one it was attached to this press which had other goodies as well.

 

[Tarnished]

Just finished this one. Thought some will enjoy pics.
1942 Delta 14" dp with foot feed & 1962 Delta grinder (Working on grinder)

 

[Davefr]

Just finished this one. Thought some will enjoy pics.
1942 Delta 14" dp with foot feed & 1962 Delta grinder (Working on grinder)

That's beautiful!!

 

[Tarnished]

Thanks Davefr, it's been a journey, been acquiring parts for a couple years and finally all came together. Quite an enjoyable slide down the never ending slope. LOL.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

That’s a fantastic machine Tarnished. Great job!

 

[4x4fred]

Not mine yet - hope to be. Upcoming auction. Can't post the pic so here's the link.

-hope it works.

Link not posting. Maybe I'm too new?

 

[RBarnes]

A couple of people had asked for me to post pictures as I am SLOWLY restoring this Canedy-Otto drill press. I was amazed at how much of the original black paint I could save. Was very lucky they did not clean it before repainting the first time. There are numerous scratches and rub area in the original black paint that do not show up in the photo as well as the old gold lettering is hard to see, but shows up great in real life - I am a lousy photographer.

Was a little surprised at how rough the casting itself was when I got layers of newer paint off. Works fine that way and it is not really rusted/pitted. I just expected a smoother surface since the newer thick layers of paint covered some of the casting roughness. Still have yet to figure out why they re painted it? First layers of gray, then a lemon YELLOW color I just could not stand. Many nights as I worked removing paint, I wondered if the persons that re painted this with a broom?, were looking UP at me from that special place where people go that slap heavy uneven paint on something without masking the bare metal surfaces or otherwise properly repainting something. They even filled in about half of the area of the oiling holes??? It was a LOT of work removing paint, but I am happy today!

Now I have to start remembering how to put it all back together.

 

[AdrianBoomer]

RBarnes, That is turning out really great! I can't wait to see it back together. I love old upright drills like this.

 

[RBarnes]

RBarnes, That is turning out really great! I can't wait to see it back together. I love old upright drills like this.

Adrian,
Thank you. Positve comments mean a lot when working on a project like this.

 

[Outlawmws]

RB hats looking great! And Yes some times remembering the assembly order can be challenging...

I think my best feat on that was a CT90 engine/tyranny where I split the case, completely disassembled it, waited 2 years before buying the gear and piston needed, and still got it back together right!

 

[jkherd]

Thanks, I figured there must be a belt cover that was missing. Is that something that can be sourced?

Looks like it would take some work to make it look like your picture. Are these considered desirable to use or collect? Could probably get it cheap if it's worth restoring.

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

Looks alot like mine, the model number on mine indicates it's from 1937.

 

[RBarnes]

RB thats looking great! And Yes some times remembering the assembly order can be challenging...

I think my best feat on that was a CT90 engine/tyranny where I split the case, completely disassembled it, waited 2 years before buying the gear and piston needed, and still got it back together right!

Outlaw, that is quite an achievement. Sounds like you have a better memory that I do. At this point I will be happy if I only have a couple of minor things I have to redo the order on.

The babbitt bearings are really good, which was very surprising considering most of the oil holes were full of re painted paint. I will have to make new gaskets for the split top pieces, but I expected that when I split them apart. Managed to find some old NOS black gasket making stock.

I am guessing the Canedy Otto belt driven presses would have been lubricated with a 30 weight non detergent oil, but if anyone has any thoughts on this I would enjoy your insight. Would really like to see what Canedy Otto recommended for oil and what to oil besides the obvious oil holes (were the gears oiled?). Has anyone seen any sort of manual online?

 

[y'sguy]

RBarnes, Great results! I'm impressed with your restoration. I've never had any of this experiance or maybe it's patience when removing paint. It is either all or none. The layers seem to come off in no special order. Like I said probably just my lack of patience. Materials to remove paint and grime are much improved now with better control it seems. I need to start using them!

 

[Hoorn]

Picked this up today. Walker Turner 900. Unfortunately no badges. Fortunately, a production table and full belt cover.

 

[RBarnes]

This bad boy is back together! Thanks to a lot of cell phone pics as I took it apart and putting screws in zip lock bags with notes inside.

Everything spins freely and works now that heavy layers of non original paint are gone. Special thanks to my friend Terry Estes for helping get it here, answering numerous questions about these drill presses and then finally explaining how some of the levers and back gear should function as I was putting it back together.

Cannot figure out why gold lettering does not show up in photo of entire drill press on phone camera. Probably related to the shop lighting.? It is still there.

Where can I buy leather belts and lacing kits?

 

[Outlawmws]

Here is one place:
https://www.leatherdrivebelts.com/

 

[RBarnes]

Thanks outlaw!. I quickly looked and saw they have ready made belts. Do not know the exact size so I want to be able to do the lacing myself. Having said that, I will call them and see if they also sell the lacing kits.

 

[RBarnes]

I also got a really big kick out of buying the old oak 2 x 4s from a guy that I used for the drill press stand. He had stored them improperly in his garage for many years and they were warped - you could tell he really thought he was pulling one over on me when I bought them.

I straightened them, planed and made the butcher block style base out of them (boards are glued together and also held together with threaded rods running through them). I enjoy buying things from people that are taking advantage of me! Almost impossible to find vintage oak 2 x 4s in my part of the the country and I needed something strong enough to support the 973 pound drill press. Can't stand the modern green wood they sell at the box stores, not to mention I wanted a harder stronger species of wood.

If anyone is interested, I will post pictures with the wheel set up I made and used underneath. The base with the wheels is 4 1/2 inches tall total and even I was surprised at how easily I can roll the heavy drill press on it AND it is stable and does not feel top heavy on the stand. I do not plan to roll the drill press once I decide on the place I want it in my shop, but need the option to be able to move it if I have to.

 

[crguy]

Thanks outlaw!. I quickly looked and saw they have ready made belts. Do not know the exact size so I want to be able to do the lacing myself. Having said that, I will call them and see if they also sell the lacing kits.

Clipper lacing is what is used on drive belts, and you can buy it several places including Ebay. You also need the installation tool. The lacing comes in several sizes.

I would recommend you look into Hyflex belt instead of leather.
The leather continues to stretch and you will have to periodically shorten the belt to keep it tight. Hyflex belt is a canvas/rubber impregnated material that is period correct and won't stretch like leather.

 

[ooba tooba]

Not much to look at but might be a fun project. I couldn’t pass it up at the price of about 4 gallons of gas (2 to get there and back and 2 in cash form). Definitely rusty, and what’s left of the motor doesn’t look promising haha...

 

[Davefr]

Not much to look at but might be a fun project. I couldn’t pass it up at the price of about 4 gallons of gas (2 to get there and back and 2 in cash form). Definitely rusty, and what’s left of the motor doesn’t look promising haha...

You ****!! A motor should be easy to find if you need one. I have one of those DP's in my collection and it's the only DP I've ever seen with 0.000" of runout. The needle on the dial indicator doesn't even move when you spin the spindle.

I see you have the upper spindle guard. That part is usually missing and not cheap when you find one used.

 

[FrankLee]

Not much to look at but might be a fun project. I couldn’t pass it up at the price of about 4 gallons of gas (2 to get there and back and 2 in cash form). Definitely rusty, and what’s left of the motor doesn’t look promising haha...

Yes, a few missing bits and pieces, but nice machine!

I don't believe that rapid adjust feed stop is period correct, but it's a nice feature. If you have the column cap, it doubles as the spring housing cover. One oddity of some those machines is that OFF is up and ON is down.

Perhaps the motor can be salvaged. Even though there's a switch in the head casting, those early bakelite toggle switches on motors often go bad. Is there a date code on the motor badge?

 

[ooba tooba]

Dave; cool! I figured someone might think I **** for snatching this up. Pleased to hear of the accuracy. I honestly don’t know much about this press at all yet.

Frank; I’m not certain but it didn’t appear to have an obvious date code on it. I’d guess it’s an early 40s press and the motor appears original to it, but if someone knows for sure than enlighten me, thanks. There was another switch that came with the cut off cord.

 

[Outlawmws]

OT, I cannot read any of the markings clearly enough to read. maybe a damp cloth wipe and better pics?

 

[FrankLee]

What is stamped in the "M" box? I can't make it out.

 

[ooba tooba]

It is stamped C10

 

[ooba tooba]

With pic

 

[ooba tooba]

Yeah that’s a bit of a mystery to me if the “M” space is supposed to indicate a date. It measures 7.5 from base pole to center of chuck so I’m assuming it’s a 15” model. Base plate is readable. 101.03622

 

[Outlawmws]

OT - the "M" space on the motor plate.

 

[ooba tooba]

You ****!! A motor should be easy to find if you need one. I have one of those DP's in my collection and it's the only DP I've ever seen with 0.000" of runout. The needle on the dial indicator doesn't even move when you spin the spindle.

I see you have the upper spindle guard. That part is usually missing and not cheap when you find one used.

OT - the "M" space on the motor plate.

I posted a pic. It reads C 1 0

 

[ooba tooba]

About the best I can get

 

[ooba tooba]

Enhanced