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Nutria

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Jun 23, 2015
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Eastern Sierra
Here's a 1938 Walker-Turner 900 with slow-speed attachment. I don't usually paint old machines, but the broom-applied blue house paint on this one had to go.
 

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Nutria

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
798
Location
Eastern Sierra
Great machine Nutria. Always interesting to see how some guy years ago chose to spiff up a drill press.
Thanks. Your collection and work is inspirational. Inspirational enough for me to show to my wife-- in order to keep me inspiring and expiring after I find a floor-standing press to bring home.
 

JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
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Location
Eastern NC
Thanks Nutria, glad to be feeding your addiction! I'm at the point that I couldn't squeeze another floor model into my shop if I slathered it in baby oil and used a crow bar. I had planned on adding about 33 percent more floor space this summer but lumber prices put a nix to that.
 

Hoorn

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May 19, 2020
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Glendora, CA
I pulled this 1937-38 Delta out of a scrap pile. The spindle was pulled. I took it home on friday and cleaned it, and the original paint is absolutely perfect. I put in a spare spindle and the run out is 2 thou. Original motor purs. I got real luck. Can't believe someone would give up on it!

Smokeshow, ill gladly take the light for this machine!
Adrian, I believe that is a 1939-41 Delta because of that particular "three line" badge.
1936, 37 and 38 each had the same basic design of an upside-down triangle with "Delta" inside a ribbon along the top; also a slight color difference each year along with "Made in the United States of America" along the bottom.
Great looking machine.
 

Hoorn

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Nutria, fantastic Walker Turner example. Ive always thought the W-T slo-speed pulley was the coolest looking with the pulley assembly coming off the motor mount.
 

Nutria

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Jun 23, 2015
Messages
798
Location
Eastern Sierra
Hoorn, thanks, yes, the slow-speed attachment is super nice for metal work. For me, it's about 50-50 metal and wood, so the attachment was a must-have. There are some incredible machines in this thread-- book-marked for reference.
 

AdrianBoomer

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Jan 16, 2015
Messages
235
Location
Novato, California
Adrian, I believe that is a 1939-41 Delta because of that particular "three line" badge.
1936, 37 and 38 each had the same basic design of an upside-down triangle with "Delta" inside a ribbon along the top; also a slight color difference each year along with "Made in the United States of America" along the bottom.
Great looking machine.
Hoorn, thank you, thats interesting. The serial is 3-5500. The slow-speed I posted above is a 7-3600 which I think I dated to 40-41. It has the triangle badge. But I am not a Delta expert by any stretch. I'll start checking out the badges more closely. I also wonder if serial numbers and badges didn't always match up. My OWWMer Delta friend thought it was closer to the 37-38 mark. I find this stuff interesting!
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2021
Messages
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I just obtained a 19?? Canedy-Otto Royal 16. I'm starting to disassemble it for restoration, and I can't figure out how to remove the spindle. And advice you have will be truly appreciated!
 

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Nutria

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Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
798
Location
Eastern Sierra
I just obtained a 19?? Canedy-Otto Royal 16. I'm starting to disassemble it for restoration, and I can't figure out how to remove the spindle. And advice you have will be truly appreciated!

looks like you need the remove quill pinnion so that the quill will slip out

Yes, and will you need to let down the spring too?
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2021
Messages
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I think I have loosened all there is to loosen without banging on or forcing anything. I need to come up with a contraption that will exert a lot of pulling force on the whole quill/spindle assembly. I suspect it was press-fit together 80+ years ago!
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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5,011
Location
Carver, MA
Need to clarify, are you trying to remove the spindle from the quill or the quill assembly with the spindle from the head casting? Generally the quill is removed from the head casting before tryng to remove the spindle.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2021
Messages
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Need to clarify, are you trying to remove the spindle from the quill or the quill assembly with the spindle from the head casting? Generally the quill is removed from the head casting before tryng to remove the spindle.
In that case, yes, I'm trying to disassemble the whole thing. So it is helpful to know to try and remove the quill first. Still not sure how to do even that
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
Chris, you need better pics as there aren't a lot of CO's out there, so nto many are falmilier with them.

My CO Royal 18 is a completely different animal ( over 400 Lbs...) and the little bench top is a camel back design, so no help there either.

My notes say my 18 is older than 1949 - probably because CO went away.
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
Chris, while I have no direct CO experience, generally you would need to back off the return spring tension, then remove the spring and spring housing or cover. This will likely allow you to remove the pinion shaft with the hub and down feed handles. Once the pinion is out, the quill will likely slide out of the head casting. Good luck, and don't be afraid to post some more pics or ask more questions.
 
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Nutria

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Jun 23, 2015
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798
Location
Eastern Sierra
Good on ya. Fun stuff. You'll find a number of threads about column clean-up here and at owwm. You can rig up a simple, slow speed lathe to turn the column or set up some casters to support the column and turn it with your cleaning device of choice. Lots of lube (WD-40 or Liquid Wrench work well) will help prevent the removal of too much metal. Removing too little rust and metal is better than too much, because the table can begin to sag out of square if the column diameter is decreased even slightly. And metal is hard to put back. Anyway, it won't be hard to get the head and table sliding easily.
 

Smokeshow69

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Dec 7, 2012
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8,368
Location
Pacific Northwest
Since Adrian Boomer asked me about my Craftsman Heritage era work light, I figured I would post a few pictures... My workbench is small enough the light can be articulated over the bench in the middle or on either side to either the drill press or the vise.. Ignore the messy workbench. Lots of projects/sorting going on :) IMG-2821.jpg
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JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
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Xaquin, welcome to GJ. I did a cursory search for such a thread using a few different search terms and didn't come up with anything. I think you've got to have 5 posts before you can start a thread. Once you hit that, feel free to start one. If one does already exists, somebody will let you know and you can re-post your stuff there. There's a lot of cool corded drills out there.
 

LivermoreAdam

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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Livermore, CA
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Here is my 1949 Craftsman by King-Seeley behemoth of a drill press. I scored it earlier this year for $70 and it even came with the instruction manual, parts diagram, freight tag, and COD receipt. It needs a new spring and some scrubbing but runs great!
 

LivermoreAdam

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Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Livermore, CA
Since Adrian Boomer asked me about my Craftsman Heritage era work light, I figured I would post a few pictures... My workbench is small enough the light can be articulated over the bench in the middle or on either side to either the drill press or the vise.. Ignore the messy workbench. Lots of projects/sorting going on :) IMG-2821.jpg
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That's a nice drill press! Looks like a smaller cousin to mine.
 

Smokeshow69

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Dec 7, 2012
Messages
8,368
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That's a nice drill press! Looks like a smaller cousin to mine.
Thanks! You are correct... this is the slightly smaller 80/100 series model that is slightly smaller than your full size 100/150 series. This one has all the bearings of the full size units unlike the really small ones that are bronze bushings. It fits perfectly in the smaller area I have for it.
 

JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Eastern NC
Two recent additions to my pre-war/wartime Craftsman drill press collection. Late 30s Central Specialty-made Companion "bottle capper" drill press and a 42-43 AA Products-made Dunlap Mohawk. These have been difficult for me to find. One guy in Michigan ended up having them both and a fellow collector was kind enough to orchestrate their trip from Michigan to North Carolina. Both machines are 100 percent complete and both the Fulton and Craftsman badged motors run great. One bit strike in the work table of the CS machine. For an old Craftsman DP nut like myself, this was a lottery win. IMG_0926.JPG
 

Hoorn

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May 19, 2020
Messages
1,140
Location
Glendora, CA
Two recent additions to my pre-war/wartime Craftsman drill press collection. Late 30s Central Specialty-made Companion "bottle capper" drill press and a 42-43 AA Products-made Dunlap Mohawk. These have been difficult for me to find. One guy in Michigan ended up having them both and a fellow collector was kind enough to orchestrate their trip from Michigan to North Carolina. Both machines are 100 percent complete and both the Fulton and Craftsman badged motors run great. One bit strike in the work table of the CS machine. For an old Craftsman DP nut like myself, this was a lottery win. IMG_0926.JPG
JoCo, that room is so awesome I would never leave. WOW. A major tip o' the cap. Yes, those DPs are tough to track down, not sure I've even seen either in the wild.
 

JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Eastern NC
Thanks Hoorn. I could live out there if I had room to set up a cot.

I've been hunting that Mohawk for a long time now Outlaw. It's a 109 prefix so it was made by Double A Products Co. in Ann Arbor, MI. This one never traveled too far from home. It's an interesting piece in the use of plastic for the pulley cover and both parts of the return spring cover.
 
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