@RTM Thanks for the info had no idea.
#97 Cabinet makers' edge plane, 10"L, 2 1/4"W, 3 3/4lbs, 1905-1943. *
This plane sorta looks like a wedge with a turned rosewood knob at its rear. The knob, always a low style, is identical to those used on the evil
#6, and it sits atop a raised ring in the casting to help reduce the likelihood of its chipping about its base. The knob is secured to the plane with the common threaded post and nut, but the nut is nickel plated, unlike the nut used on the common bench planes.
There is no mouth on this plane - it has no bearing surface ahead of the cutter making the plane really nothing but a chisel held at a constant pitch and regulated by the sole to prevent it from digging into the wood too deeply.
The plane carries a cutter that is as wide as the plane is with it bedded bevel side up. The cutter is pitched at about 20 degrees, and it rests on the sides of the bottom casting, which are machined to form an inclined plane. If you were to use this plane, and forget its value as a collectible, you'd want to make sure that the machining was true with both sides in the same plane. The entire length of the backside of the cutter does not rest on the side rails; only the leading edge of the cutter makes direct contact with the side rails and the bed proper.
The cutter is held in place by a thumb screw-activated lever cap that is entirely japanned. The cutter is adjusted by the familiar screw mechanism found on the common block planes. The sides of the plane each have a U-shaped cutout on them to allow better access to the adjusting screw. The sides are also machined at right angles to the sole.
The plane was marketed to piano makers in particular and cabinetmakers in general. It was designed to cleanup or trim inside work, where the space is limited and the use of any other plane is impossible. Obviously, this a very special purpose plane for rare occurences in the shop.
Like the
#62, these planes have a tendency for chipping at the leading edge of the bottom casting, directly below the cutter, due to the thinness of the casting there. The left and right corners of the leading edge on some examples of these planes are not finished at a right angle, but are instead slightly angled in an attempt to reduce chipping.
Chipping doesn't harm the plane's use, as long as the chipping isn't too severe, but it really kills the plane's value to your average Stanley collector. If yours is chipped, and you can't sell it to a collector, you can always use it as a doorstop - its wedge-shape makes it perfect for that role.
Check that the tool hasn't been reworked, where an example, with a minor chip, was machined to eliminate the defects. Sight down the machined side rails, on which the cutter rests, to make sure they are straight and true. Any deviance from a straight edge on these means that a portion of the side rails has been machined so that the leading edge can be cut back a bit to eliminate the chip. The underside of the cutter clears the back end of the machined side rails by about 1/16"; if it's less than that amount, chances are that the plane was chipped and remachined. One of the tell-tale signs of a re-work is the machining marks at the very end of the casting, where the chipping occurs; original machining leaves curved milling marks concentric with each other a la the layers of an onion. The marks are very fine, but they are there.
The earlier castings, down along the U-shaped 'cut-outs' of the side rails, do not have the quarter-sphere bumps that the later castings do. These 'bumps' were likely added to the casting to give it strength and to make the pattern pop free of the sand easier during the casting of the tool.