Show us your handplanes

[Unk]

At the same estate sale, I also picked up this Stanley No. 18 (circa 1913-1918) for $8. It cleaned up very nice, and I think it might be my favorite block plane at this point. The knuckle cap fits very nicely into the hand.

 

[Unk]

What’s that next to your Stanley No 12.

Next to the No. 112 scraper? That's a No. 85 scraper, with the tilting handles. There's also a 10 1/4 rabbet plane in the middle, also with the same tilting handles as the No. 85. I think that's the only two planes Stanley put the tilting handles on.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Unk: That's an impressive collection! Of the specialty planes pictured, the router plane, the spokeshave, and the #66 beader get used the most by me. They're all fun.

You did a nice job restoring that #7. I know what you mean about the "obligatory white paint splatters". They are on nearly everything I restore. They're so ubiquitous that I usually leave one in a conspicuous place as a kind of witness mark.

 

[RTM]

You did a nice job restoring that #7. I know what you mean about the "obligatory white paint splatters". They are on nearly everything I restore. They're so ubiquitous that I usually leave one in a conspicuous place as a kind of witness mark.

if they don’t have white, or the occasional pale green from the 50s, the joke is they don’t match the type study.

 

[Unk]

Yes, they all seemed to paint on top of their tools back in the day. I love using my router plane, but my No. 66 beader doesn't get much use. I picked it up at an estate sale as well, with only one cutter. I bought some aftermarket cutters on e-bay, and played with it a little bit. I built a plane till last summer (posted some pics earlier in this thread) and used the router plane to cut the rabbets and dados. My till is reaching it's fill! I'm scared it's going to pull off the wall with all this cast iron.

 

[Beerhippie]

My Type 6 Stanley Bedrock 605 is now complete.



The lever cap arrived this AM. With the free iron I found last week, it's now period- and model-correct! Except, of course, for the Japanning....

I'm also beginning to remember some old product photography tricks.

Fortunately, I have a professional studio and some very high-end lighting equipment (two $12 LED clip-on lamps, scrap steel and some RE magnets).



I find that argon is the best welding gas for a light stand due to its high density.

 

[Unk]

Nice job on the Bedrock, and the 600 lb light stand!

 

[crguy]

My Type 6 Stanley Bedrock 605 is now complete.



The lever cap arrived this AM. With the free iron I found last week, it's now period- and model-correct! Except, of course, for the Japanning....

I'm also beginning to remember some old product photography tricks.

Fortunately, I have a professional studio and some very high-end lighting equipment (two $12 LED clip-on lamps, scrap steel and some RE magnets).



I find that argon is the best welding gas for a light stand due to its high density.

If you would buff the wood it would look more original.

 

[Beerhippie]

Original finish on the bright work was shellac or varnish. I've never liked that on a hand tool so I used linseed oil and wax. It'll shine up some with use. My buffing wheels have all been used for metal, so are pretty dirty. This is not only a shop decoration, but a user.

I'll hit it up with a micro-fiber buffing cloth and see what that does.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Beerhippie: Great restoration and photography but, there's no paint splatter on your 605. Is that allowed?

 

[Beerhippie]

Does this count as paint splatter?



As found.

I've restored over a hundred old Coleman lanterns and stoves. I'd say 80-90% of them have white paint spatter on them when found. I did have one that had light blue paint spatter, but only the one.

Of course, sometimes the white spatter isn't paint--it's pigeon spatter.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Oh my gosh!!! That's Stanley's super rare Green Crackle finish! It was only sold for ten minutes until the QR guy spotted it. Wow! What luck!

 

[paulm12]

anyone want this scraper/iron ?? just cover shipping.

 

[Unk]

anyone want this scraper/iron ?? just cover shipping.

I'll take it.

 

[Pexto]

Does this count as paint splatter?



As found.

I've restored over a hundred old Coleman lanterns and stoves. I'd say 80-90% of them have white paint spatter on them when found. I did have one that had light blue paint spatter, but only the one.

Of course, sometimes the white spatter isn't paint--it's pigeon spatter.

Sure, I'd pay $15 for that Bedrock, even though it's a project.

And I'd jump all over that saw vise for five bucks, too.

 

[Beerhippie]

Sure, I'd pay $15 for that Bedrock, even though it's a project.

And I'd jump all over that saw vise for five bucks, too.

For twenty, they threw in the brass and rosewood angle gauge!

 

[Pexto]

For twenty, they threw in the brass and rosewood angle gauge!

That's a nice bevel gauge!

So did you restore the Bedrock? That might be a good candidate for before-and-after pics!

 

[paulm12]

I'll take it.

Unk: send a PM with your info

 

[Beerhippie]

That's a nice bevel gauge!

So did you restore the Bedrock? That might be a good candidate for before-and-after pics!

See post #1,366 above.

 

[Pexto]

See post #1,366 above.

Doh! Thanks, somehow I missed that. Very nice job on the restoration; I'm sure that one is a pleasure to use.

 

[Beerhippie]

If you would buff the wood it would look more original.

OK, you finally got to me.

I made a spindle so I could chuck the knob up in my drill press and burnished it with 4-0 steel wool then applied Renaissance wax with the rough side of a piece of boot leather and final buffed it with the smooth side. I had to do the same on the tote without power assist, so it took longer, but, boy howdy, does that wood gleam now!

Pictures when I'm not feeling so lazy.

 

[Beerhippie]

Well, now the Bedrock is done!



Just a couple of little parts I needed and that crappy old Wards Master had them! I was wandering through a local junk shop when I laid eyes on the Wards. $12? Hmm.... Broken tote, mouse-chewed knob, pretty rusty, but... that's a tall-knob, round-cheek Stanley Bailey with the 1" adjuster wheel!



Those are the parts I needed. Old ones on the right. The adjuster wheel of mine was so worn it barely engaged the adjuster lever. The lever cap retaining screw had the head nearly worn away. The new ones are much better--and fit perfectly.

Best part was, when I explained to the store owner why I was buying that wreck (I usually shop for Coleman gasoline stoves and lanterns--I got one of those, too) he just threw it in with the rest of the stuff I was buying.

I'll probably part out the Wards. Most of the parts are Bailey #4 and, other than the wood, in decent shape.

 

[CRSINMICH]

E.C. Ring Match Planes
(for cutting tongue-and-groove)
These may have been posted a few years ago but they have been taken out of storage for an upcoming project.
​

E.C. Ring was an early tool maker from Ringville, Massachusetts. These planes are 150 - 170 years old. They're in great shape and some test cuts showed they still work great too.

 

[Old tool guy]

Interesting. Journalism was bad back then too. Beach wood for planes …

 

[CRSINMICH]

Homophones have tripped up many writers. I don't no how they can bare it.

 

[Beerhippie]

Homophones have tripped up many writers. I don't no how they can bare it.

I can see wear your going their.

 

[Modern Garage]

Why is the guy from England the only one laughing about this exchange?

 

[Woody1320]

Huge haul from this Wednesday. Picked these up from CRSinMich. Thank you for the awesome deal, sir! A Stanley no6 and no3, a matched pair of hollow and round molding planes, two transitional smoothing planes, a matched pair of tongue and groove planes, three saws (the Gents saw isn't pictured), a no12 scraper plane, a skew rabbet plane, a wooden jack, and a few chisels. I cannot be happier with how awesome all of this stuff is.

 

[RTM]

Huge haul from this Wednesday. Picked these up from CRSinMich. Thank you for the awesome deal, sir!

And the hook is set. He’ll be gathering and using planes like a star in no time. Nice variety there

 

[Woody1320]

And the hook is set. He’ll be gathering and using planes like a star in no time. Nice variety there

CRSinMich has been my "dealer" for quite some time lol. I can't thank him enough for all of the help and encouragement.

 

[Old tool guy]

Is the yellow paint original?

 

[CRSINMICH]

It was yellow when I got it a few years ago but I don't think it was original.

Woody: You are welcome. Have fun.

 

[ctuai]

Finally, found my 1st Stanley Bedrock in the wild. I assume it's a 5-1/2c as this what it's marked with under the lever cap and its got a corrugated bottom. The body has no markings. Both the lever cap and frog are marked with a B. The front of the body might have had some marking that might have been ground out. It's likely a Type 3 or 4. From my looking it's a bit of an odd duck.

 

[Beerhippie]

From the way the frog is retained, that's a Bailey. Bedrock have the screws for tightening the frog exposed at the rear so you don't have to remove the iron, chip breaker and cap to get to them.

 

[ctuai]

From the way the frog is retained, that's a Bailey. Bedrock have the screws for tightening the frog exposed at the rear so you don't have to remove the iron, chip breaker and cap to get to them.

Yah, it's confusing as the bed has the solid mount with the groove for the frog. Did the Bailey's come with the same mount? I wonder it it's just a plane that's been cobbled together.

 

[Joe Huld]

From the way the frog is retained, that's a Bailey. Bedrock have the screws for tightening the frog exposed at the rear so you don't have to remove the iron, chip breaker and cap to get to them.

You are right as far as the post 1911 Bedrocks (type 6 and later), but the earlier types 1-5 (1898-1910) used the same frog retention screws as the Bailey planes. I'd guess the OPs plane is a circa 1900 -1910 Bedrock with a 2 1/4 wide blade.

 

[ctuai]

You are right as far as the post 1911 Bedrocks (type 6 and later), but the earlier types 1-5 (1898-1910) used the same frog retention screws as the Bailey planes. I'd guess the OPs plane is a circa 1900 -1910 Bedrock with a 2 1/4 wide blade.

I wonder why they're no markings on the bed? Did they sometimes grind them off, which looks like what has happened on the front of the plane/

 

[RTM]

As a round sided plane, it's definitely an early, if it's a Bedrock. The later ones had square sides.

Here is a type study, should have pix of the frog mounting to compare. Without fishing mine out, I can't tell you from memory

Account Suspended

If we can't get a definitive answer, holler. Will also look for pix of one I cleaned up.

Oops, this one says the round tops were different than the square ones. Yours should align with this

Need help on identifying BEDROCK 605 frog issue??

Yesterday, I acquired a BedRock 605 with the rounded sides in decent condition..Tonight as I started dissassembling for cleaning, I noticed an unusual (to me) frog feature... In the past, all the Bedrocks I had encountered used the 2 bolts at the rear of the frog that fastened the frog...

sawmillcreek.org

 

[ctuai]

As a round sided plane, it's definitely an early, if it's a Bedrock. The later ones had square sides.

Here is a type study, should have pix of the frog mounting to compare. Without fishing mine out, I can't tell you from memory

Account Suspended

If we can't get a definitive answer, holler. Will also look for pix of one I cleaned up.

Oops, this one says the round tops were different than the square ones. Yours should align with this

Need help on identifying BEDROCK 605 frog issue??

Yesterday, I acquired a BedRock 605 with the rounded sides in decent condition..Tonight as I started dissassembling for cleaning, I noticed an unusual (to me) frog feature... In the past, all the Bedrocks I had encountered used the 2 bolts at the rear of the frog that fastened the frog...

sawmillcreek.org

Thanks for the studies @RTM . The lever cap is the type 4-5 (1908-1910). The frog is type 1-5 (1898-1910). The frog and lever cap are marked B, type 1-4 (1908-1910). Lastly, my lateral adjustment liver is without patent dates (Type 4, 1908 - forward).

So by my great power of induction, deduction, ipso facto, I conclude, it is a late Type 4 (1908-1910). In the transition to the type 5 they for some reason decided to grind off all the body casting. Also, it doesn't come with the original iron, which is the 1923-1935 Sweetheart.

 

[RTM]

Here is my most recent acquisition, a razee jack plane that seems really heavy like its made of some tropical exotic hardwood, making me think its user made. Change my mind.

Found this guy at the Alameda Antique Flea Market, sitting on a table with 3 other planes, I think the only tools in the booth. My high estimate of where I'd go was right what he offered, so away we went. Stuck it in my bag, set it aside 'til today when I had a few minutes over lunch to attack it. Getting the wedge out was a bit difficult, as my normal method of grabbing is in a handscrew wouldn't work as the exposed portion of the wedge was tapered, so the screw just slide up as I tightened it. Took a wooden mallet, knocked the wedge side to side, and it slowly backed out. Made sure everything came apart while my hands were dirty, and grabbed some pics. Nice beefy tapered iron (3/16") inside. There is a bevel on the mouth side of the brass closure plate, but the pix don't show it. I suspect the closure plate would be a user added thing whether factory made or not.

Things that make me think its homemade 1) exotic hardwood 2) weirdly angled small handle 3) coarse strike button 4) mouth escapement has lots of tool marks left 5) the wedge looks like he chewed the front edge & the screw is tearing into the slot cut for it 6) seems to be a lower than normal cutting angle at 42° (vs 45)

No makers marks or user IDs on it. May find something on the blade or chipbreaker when I derust them a bit.

Some pics after a quick brush off and wipe down. Will give it a mineral spirits wipe later.



BTW, that full handled stubby screwdriver is a fantastic thing for stuck blade screws

More pix here. Will add more here when I get it up and working. May make a new mouth closure plate if it tears out too much.