Show us your VFD conversions/installations

[OccupantRJ]

A contactor intended for use in a central AC unit should serve your purpose to control the vfd nicely. It is a definite purpose contactor with a 24 volt ac coil and normally is good for 40 amps. The nice thing is that they are inexpensive. You would just need a box for it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Packard...VxeDICh2PxA0EEAQYAyABEgJWDfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[manwithtools]

Definite purpose contactors are junk....that's why they are cheap. HVAC manufactures use them everywhere and the OEM providers make them to the lowest possible quality standards for them.

All that being said, in a home shop, they would probably work fine. This is almost a redundant conversation as well, a VFD has no need for an input contactor, it's almost never done this way in the real world.

 

[brianpgriset]

Odd. The Teco manual specified a contactor for external control.

 

[manwithtools]

I'm not sure why they are implying a contactor be used "When performing
functions such as external control and auto restart after power failure", my experience has been that the drive will automatically reset after a power failure. The external control is already achieved via inputs to the drive. Wonky wording at best in the manual.

The manual also states: "Normal operations do not need a magnetic contactor."

In most industrial applications the VFD's are not fed by a contactor as that adds unnecessary costs, the VFD is in fact replacing the contactor in the design. The VFD is fully capable of starting and stopping the motor as well as controlling the motors speed, hence there is no need for a contactor on the input power.

 

[PT Doc]

I’ve had this 20” disc sander for a few years. I’ve slowly gathered the parts to convert to a VFD with braking resistor. It takes about 45 minutes to coast to a stop. I’ve used this enclosure on another VFD setup and it works well. I drew up the U shaped clamps to mount the enclosure at the bottom of the column.



Machined out of 3/4” expanded pvc sheet with brass threaded inserts.



Enclosure mounted up. It’s quite solid and I think it will work well.









More to follow as time allows..

Where do you get paper for that beast? Super nice.

 

[slodat]

Where do you get paper for that beast? Super nice.

Most industrial abrasive suppliers stock it. It's a standard size. It is a great addition to the shop! Thank you!

 

[930dreamer]

Switches I have.

 

[cosmopedro]

OK, I hate to admit it, but I'm doing what I criticize others for: semi-hijacking a thread without reading the whole frikkin thread...

BUT, I do have a pretty relevant question, and if it's already in here I'm sure that'll be pointed out. Deservedly. SO...

I have become the owner of an Ingersoll-Rand two-stage compressor - that came off a friend's spray foam truck after his crew apparently forgot to check to see if oil was in the compressor - and was hoping I could get it running by rebuilding the pump and not having to replace the motor too... kinda trying to get this done on a tiny budget.

Motor is an IR Part #97331292 5HP 3Ph 200V (not a typo - 200V) manufactured by WEG, with the marking "DELTA RUN" on the dataplate, and it sorta sounds to me like I might be able to run this off 240V single-phase house power with a VFD for cheaper than it would cost to buy a single phase 5HP motor?

Can anyone provide me more insight as to how to get there from here? Or am I better off buying a single-phase 5HP motor and getting on with it...?

 

[454ragtop]

OK, I hate to admit it, but I'm doing what I criticize others for: semi-hijacking a thread without reading the whole frikkin thread...

BUT, I do have a pretty relevant question, and if it's already in here I'm sure that'll be pointed out. Deservedly. SO...

I have become the owner of an Ingersoll-Rand two-stage compressor - that came off a friend's spray foam truck after his crew apparently forgot to check to see if oil was in the compressor - and was hoping I could get it running by rebuilding the pump and not having to replace the motor too... kinda trying to get this done on a tiny budget.

Motor is an IR Part #97331292 5HP 3Ph 200V (not a typo - 200V) manufactured by WEG, with the marking "DELTA RUN" on the dataplate, and it sorta sounds to me like I might be able to run this off 240V single-phase house power with a VFD for cheaper than it would cost to buy a single phase 5HP motor?

Can anyone provide me more insight as to how to get there from here? Or am I better off buying a single-phase 5HP motor and getting on with it...?

Better off replacing the motor. A compressor is one of the few machines that is a poor choice for a VFD or a phase converter, it's such a high load that oversized VFD's or phase converters are required. No advantage to variable speed or instant reverse.

 

[timgunn1962]

I'm on a different continent with a different power distribution system, but I suspect you'd be better off with a new single-phase motor.

Compressors are usually a pretty hard-start application and don't really lend themselves to the slow ramp-ups that are the norm for VFDs. Most of the cheaper VFDs I've come across are not able to cope with the short-term current surge needed to get the motor up to speed at anything like Direct-On-Line starting rate (Across-The-Line starting in US terminology?).

There are ways to make it work (massively increasing the effective volume of the line from the compressor head to the Non-Return Valve on the receiver might work. Arranging a time delay on the unloader valve would probably work. Closing a separate unloader valve using an "at speed" signal from the VFD would almost certainly work), but there would be a fair amount of faffing about in addition to the cost of the VFD.

The WEG motor should be fine running from a 240V VFD in Delta.

 

[930dreamer]

A 5hp 3 phase compressor will operate just fine with a 10hp phase converter.

 

[OccupantRJ]

A 5 hp single phase motor can be had for $350. Price a phase converter for that unit you have.

 

[454ragtop]

A 5hp 3 phase compressor will operate just fine with a 10hp phase converter.

Okayyyyy, so which would be cheaper and more reliable, a 10 HP phase converter or a single phase motor?

 

[930dreamer]

10 HP phase converter, if you scrounge up all the parts on the cheap.

 

[brianpgriset]

Ok, question. I am working next to get all the push buttons installed. How do you properly cut the holes? It looks like you need to leave a small male key in the hole to keep the switches from rotating. How do you do that (without spending a bunch of money on a specialty tool)?

 

[slodat]

Ok, question. I am working next to get all the push buttons installed. How do you properly cut the holes? It looks like you need to leave a small male key in the hole to keep the switches from rotating. How do you do that (without spending a bunch of money on a specialty tool)?

Drill correct size hole, file in the notch.

 

[brianpgriset]

Drill correct size hole, file in the notch.

That's what I was thinking . Thanks!

 

[sreeb]

Keyed washer:

https://www.jameco.com/shop/keyword=Keyed-Washer

 

[454ragtop]

Drill correct size hole, file in the notch.

Hmmm, curious how you file in a MALE notch (think key would be a better description)?

That said, I wouldn't worry about the key, drill a round hole and call it done. Snug up the switch, unlikely it will be a problem.

 

[slodat]

Hmmm, curious how you file in a MALE notch (think key would be a better description)?



That said, I wouldn't worry about the key, drill a round hole and call it done. Snug up the switch, unlikely it will be a problem.

Brain fart on my part. The way I did this is I cut the notch in the top piece on the laser like so:



I agree it won’t be a problem. I have several installed that way.

 

[Indexmill]

Brain fart on my part. The way I did this is I cut the notch in the top piece on the laser like so:



I agree it won’t be a problem. I have several installed that way.

Well, if you happen to have a damn laser...

 

[whateg01]

Well, if you happen to have a damn laser...

Yeah, I don't have a laser at home, so I cut the holes (D-holes, too) on my CNC plasma table.

Dave

 

[930dreamer]

I'm looking at possibly getting these enclosures. I don't know their worth to anyone as shipping would be spendy? There are (2) 3R with doors and (2) without, and the black one is a WEG.

 

[letlevski]

I am thinking to install VFD on my South Bend HeaVY 10 LATHE. How long did it take from the beginning to the end to install? how much does it cost?
Thanks in advance. letlevski

 

[Johnny_V]

I am thinking to install VFD on my South Bend HeaVY 10 LATHE. How long did it take from the beginning to the end to install? how much does it cost?
Thanks in advance. letlevski

Very easy to install. Start to finish for a novice should be about a day, taking into consideration making bracketry, routing wire, determining location and whether or not you use remote switches. Once done you'll say it was a day well spent. As for cost, could go anywhere from around $120.00 to $500.00, depending of course how fancy you care to go, but I'd say a conservative figure would be around $200.00.

 

[brianpgriset]

I'm pretty close to finishing my vfd serup. I need about 6 pair of wires for the controls. Can someone recommend a shielded cable? I only need about 7 feet or so and not sure what gauge is needed. Can I just use shielded cat 6?

 

[manwithtools]

I'm pretty close to finishing my vfd serup. I need about 6 pair of wires for the controls. Can someone recommend a shielded cable? I only need about 7 feet or so and not sure what gauge is needed. Can I just use shielded cat 6?

Not the best cable to use, but for that short of a run it will work just fine.

 

[Johnny_V]

You can also go to your local electrical Supply store and order the required cable. 16 or 18 gauge is all you'll need. I've been using 18ga for the remote push buttons and it works just fine.

 

[brianpgriset]

Not the best cable to use, but for that short of a run it will work just fine.

I'll look into that, thanks. If you are also aware of any economical retailers on the net that sell by he foot I'm all ears.

 

[manwithtools]

Do you have the shielded CAT6? If not, just buy a 10 foot patch cable from C2G (Cables to Go) or Amazon. Cut the ends off and you are good to go.

 

[whateg01]

You can also go to your local electrical Supply store and order the required cable. 16 or 18 gauge is all you'll need. I've been using 18ga for the remote push buttons and it works just fine.

That's overkill for control lines. There's no real current draw for the controls. I used an 18 ga extension cord for much of my lathe installation just because the controls are in various places on the machine and it was conveniently already sheathed, but thinner wire would have worked just fine. Cat 6 wire should be fine for this.

Dave

 

[brianpgriset]

Just about finished. Set all the parameters last night and have it a test run. Worked great.

Two more questions.

1. I have the E-stop setup for a rapid decel (03-04 set to 14). Do you set the stop time? Or is it set by the drive? I haven't tried it yet for fear of damaging it.

2. Right now I have the carrier frequency set to 10kHz but it's still annoying. Any issue going to 16kHz?

3. What's a safe max frequency limit? Right now I have it ranged from 10 to 90.

 

[MattT]

1. I have the E-stop setup for a rapid decel (03-04 set to 14). Do you set the stop time? Or is it set by the drive? I haven't tried it yet for fear of damaging it.

Doesn't appear to be an adjustable ramp. I'm guessing it'll automagically decel as fast as it can without overvolting the DC bus.

2. Right now I have the carrier frequency set to 10kHz but it's still annoying. Any issue going to 16kHz?

I've heard that high carrier frequencies can break down motor insulation especially with non inverter duty motors. If the noise is noticeable worse at specific speeds setting up skip frequencies to prevent running at those speeds would be a safer solution.

3. What's a safe max frequency limit? Right now I have it ranged from 10 to 90.

For non inverter duty motors I don't like to go below 15 Hz because it can cause cooling problems.

Haven't seen any problems up to 90 Hz with 4 pole (< 1800 rpm nameplate) motors. 2 pole (> 3000 rpm) I don't like to push beyond 60 Hz. IIRC the highest I've gone is 72 Hz and that shortened bearing life.

If the motor is inverter duty the manufacturer may publish frequency limits or max rpm and ratio. If these numbers are available use the ones for constant torque (CT) not variable (VT).

All of the above only applies to the motor itself. Deviating from nameplate rpm can also cause problems with whatever the motor is driving.

 

[laser3kw]

Haven't seen any problems up to 90 Hz with 4 pole (< 1800 rpm nameplate) motors. 2 pole (> 3000 rpm) I don't like to push beyond 60 Hz. IIRC the highest I've gone is 72 Hz and that shortened bearing life.

I have setups out in the field that regularly run 90hz and even 120hz all shift long without problems. Caveat is: this is on new motors on 3 phase. After 60hz the motor starts loosing torque (while maintaining horsepower thru rpm).
On single phase, I agree, Brief episodes above 60hz will not ruin the motor. Just don't make it a habit to run it prolong time above 60hz.

 

[Kev In]

I made a spool winder that’s powered by a 3 phase motor into a worm gear box that uses a KBAC 27D that is NEMA 4. The KBAC drives are pricey, but awesome to setup and use.

 

[MattT]

Caveat is: this is on new motors on 3 phase. After 60hz the motor starts loosing torque (while maintaining horsepower thru rpm).

If you're working with a 480v drive and a 230/460 motor you can wire the motor for 230 and set drive parameters to 230/60. Then it'll be able to maintain the correct Volts:Hz ratio, and hence torque, up to 120 Hz. You can even do it on 240v single phase if you use a transformer

 

[fiftyv8]

Guys, I am new here and would like to post my recently built homemade powered bead roller project.

It is all but complete as I have a VFD attached to it and have had a number of small program issues with it.

Long story short, I have been helped out by folks on another forum and have gotten all my remote switches etc to work, but once they were installed and working it seems my VFD does not want to respond correctly any more to my upper and lower speed limit setting which still remain and show.

My lower setting is set at 20hz, but the VFD just runs it down to zero and the upper limit is set 120hz and once I pass 90hz it goes into some dumb rhumba or what could be know as jogging, but I am too new at it to know that for sure.

Currently, I am just catching my breath with it and consider what else I could do to correct the problem.

I am totally disappointed with the makers tech help line which is basically non existent it would seem and I have not been able to find any YouTube techs for my particular make or model.

 

[r_olson_06]

Guys, I am new here and would like to post my recently built homemade powered bead roller project.

It is all but complete as I have a VFD attached to it and have had a number of small program issues with it.

Long story short, I have been helped out by folks on another forum and have gotten all my remote switches etc to work, but once they were installed and working it seems my VFD does not want to respond correctly any more to my upper and lower speed limit setting which still remain and show.

My lower setting is set at 20hz, but the VFD just runs it down to zero and the upper limit is set 120hz and once I pass 90hz it goes into some dumb rhumba or what could be know as jogging, but I am too new at it to know that for sure.

Currently, I am just catching my breath with it and consider what else I could do to correct the problem.

I am totally disappointed with the makers tech help line which is basically non existent it would seem and I have not been able to find any YouTube techs for my particular make or model.

What controls the speed? Are you using a pot switch or some digital inputs so increase decrease speed or just the pot on the front of the drive?

Looking for the following Plomb Pebbles Wrenches 3061, 3070,

 

[timgunn1962]

What drive are you using? Can you provide a link to an online manual?

 

[OccupantRJ]

I recently restored my Clausing 5914 lathe and installed a Teco L510 2 hp drive to control it. I used the lathe’s original drum switch to control things, as I have been using a drum switch on a lathe for about 30 years and like the tactile feel when using it. I kept the original hydraulic speed control on the lathe so I can pick a speed range, then use the VFD pot to tweak as desired.