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Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

zkling

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Z: nice score on the Baldor. until WWII sees this my guess with that badge and the bolt on top of it is maybe mid 1940's built. glad to hear is runs great and at $10 aren't you glad you stopped with the baby clothes out in front of it?

Indeed, I was really looking for a nice pair of footie PJ's though. :lol:
 
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WWIIjeep

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Can anyone narrow down a time frame for when it was manufactured?, 40's? I tried searching the cat number but couldn't come up with anything :dunno:

Date code is at the bottom. 10-47. Nice score.

Better luck next time on the footie PJs. :lol:
 

zkling

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Date code is at the bottom. 10-47. Nice score.

Better luck next time on the footie PJs. :lol:

Thanks for the info WWIIjeep, I was wondering if that was possibly a date, but the "NO" designation threw me. 67 year old grinder still working :thumbup:
 

larryq

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Last week I was in desperate need of a bench grinder. Amazingly my luck turned good for a change and on the way into town I stopped by a garage sale. Lots of baby clothes and then this.

What a smoking deal, now I'll have to dig through to the back of every Milton-Bradley stuffed garage sale to see if there's gold in thar hills!
 

Outlawmws

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See, on my drive by TOO"s I always look for "junk boxes" BEHIND those valuable footie PS's and barney toys. :evil:

Great save ZK; a true usuck score!
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
I just got a call from a contact of mine who is offering me a couple if items, a Dayton 8" 3/4 hp grinder on a Baldor base and a Baldor 3/4 hp buffer on a Baldor base. both are single phase 110v. He wants $500 for all the pieces. Additionally the grinder is brand new shape.

My question is 1.) Is the Dayton grinder US made or Chinese and how good are these and 2.) how much do these bases weigh?? 3.) am I overpaying?
 

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drivesitfar

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Joe: i'm guessing your Dayton is US made, but not 100% because i can't see the full grinder. the label does say USA on the bottom line, but that is company's address.

here's my 3/4 HP Dayton and my 1/3 HP for comparison and i know both mine were made in US.

I own a couple buffers and even though a bit dirty that might run forever if not abused so check for strange sounds and cracks in case it was dropped or fell over sort of like you inspect vises except for the sounds.

good luck
 

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nochina1966

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May 2, 2014
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Got 4, they're all fitted with different wheels to get'er dun !, a Rockwell, my favorite, a Kalamazoo, and 2 Deltas.

e2yve9ar.jpg
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zkling

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What a smoking deal, now I'll have to dig through to the back of every Milton-Bradley stuffed garage sale to see if there's gold in thar hills!

See, on my drive by TOO"s I always look for "junk boxes" BEHIND those valuable footie PS's and barney toys. :evil:

Great save ZK; a true usuck score!

Thanks guys. Ironically I was really in desperate need of a bench grinder, so I was extremely happy to find it, especially for the $. I'll give it a full rebuild when I get back home. It's a keeper for sure, especially after finding out it is pre 1950's :beer:
 

joe.striper

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Picked up my new Baldor Buffer today and Dayton 3/4 hp Bench Grinder:bounce: WOW is that Baldor Buffer AWESOME! The most phenomenal thing I've ever used it makes cleaning up my vises EFFORTLESS.

The big Dayton (8") grinder scared me :shocking: though. One of the wheels had a chip out of it so I stopped at Home Depot and got a new 8" wheel. Mounted it with the shims, tightened it, but not too much, and started the grinder to seat it in...BANG...the damned wheel exploded in half. What could I have done wrong, could it have been a bad wheel???:headscrat

Last thing, and a little off topic, on my way out the guy sells me a Kalamazoo 2" Baldor powered Belt Sander for $50.00. Motor didn't start well, had to be coaxed. Got it home, cleaned the capacitor connections, runs great. I'm ordering a new OSHA guard from Kalamazoo, other than that it's great.:thumbup:
 

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McBrownie

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Picked up my new Baldor Buffer today and Dayton 3/4 hp Bench Grinder:bounce: WOW is that Baldor Buffer AWESOME! The most phenomenal thing I've ever used it makes cleaning up my vises EFFORTLESS.

The big Dayton (8") grinder scared me :shocking: though. One of the wheels had a chip out of it so I stopped at Home Depot and got a new 8" wheel. Mounted it with the shims, tightened it, but not too much, and started the grinder to seat it in...BANG...the damned wheel exploded in half. What could I have done wrong, could it have been a bad wheel???:headscrat

Last thing, and a little off topic, on my way out the guy sells me a Kalamazoo 2" Baldor powered Belt Sander for $50.00. Motor didn't start well, had to be coaxed. Got it home, cleaned the capacitor connections, runs great. I'm ordering a new OSHA guard from Kalamazoo, other than that it's great.:thumbup:

Glad you didn't get hurt with the exploding wheel. That is scary. But for the second time today (check the vises thread) I will say:

WHAT?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!!! $50?!?!!!?!?!!?!!?

For a Kalamazoo?!?!?!?! It's not the $3000 vise for $50, but a $500 Kalamazoo for $50? Nice find! :thumbup:
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Does anyone know how to pull the wheel connected to the motor on that Kalamazoo sander? It should be an easy resto but I cant figure on how to pull that damned wheel :confused:
 

jakemac

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Penetrating oil. It could be rust fused to the spindle.
Another possibility is that there is a burr on the spindle from the set screw that is interfering with removal.
 
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joe.striper

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Here are a couple of pics of the stuff I picked up plus a pic of my current wire wheel/buffer setup. Needless to say I don't need the buffer on that homemade setup anymore.
 

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joe.striper

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Remove the set screw, then the second set screw that is probably under the lock screw you loosened...

the set screw is an allen key head that was deep set. i backed all the way out. I sprayed PB blaster into the hole where the 3/8" bolt held the wheel on. i think I'll cut a piece of smaller diameter round stock and put it in the hole and then I'll screw in a new bolt over it effectively creating a puller. wish me luck!
 

joe.striper

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Here are a couple of pics of the stuff I picked up plus a pic of my current wire wheel/buffer setup. Needless to say I don't need the buffer on that homemade setup anymore.

i paid $550 for everything and i think i did OK. I'll sell the Baldor stands and maybe the grinder. everything else stays. I'll NEVER sell the Baldor buffer.
 

Onedivinehammer

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WWIIjeep

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Some advice? Local Habit For Humanity store has two old grinders, one I'm guessing from the 60's, the other probably 40/50's, or so. I imagine you guys know better. Anyways, are either of these any good? How about price-wise? $50 for the Walker-Turner, and what would be $40 for the Thor. Both 1/3 HP.

They're both better than any comparably-sized Chinese-made grinder available now.

The Thor is late-'50s/early-'60s. It gets bonus points for cool design and for appearing to be in amazingly good condition for a 50+ year old tool.

The Walker-Turner is late-'30s to '40s. Definitely no newer than 1949. It also appears to be in exceptional condition for a 65 to 75+ year old tool. It's about the equivalent or a little better than Craftsman 6" block grinders of the 1950s/60s.

Both are just light-duty grinders, with the Walker-Turner being slightly heavier than the Thor. Don't expect either one of them to be able to do much more than light sharpening or touch-up grinding (drill bits, small chisels, etc.). Assuming both run as well as they look, the prices are at the upper end of fair. Fair being predicated on the fact that you're dealing with a charitable organization, where your payment goes to support a good cause.

Some will probably say they aren't worth more than $20/25, if that, but you can't buy a new grinder as good as those for such prices.
 

zkling

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Agree with WWII jeep. If you really needed a grinder and the WT worked good, I'd go for it. I'm not a fan of those extremely blocky grinders like that Thor. Your restore looks like the one I sometimes pop in as well as good will. Things seem quite high considering what they have invested. I guess they don't work on the high volume lower individual profit margin idea. :eyecrazy:
 

Onedivinehammer

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They're both better than any comparably-sized Chinese-made grinder available now. ... Don't expect either one of them to be able to do much more than light sharpening or touch-up grinding (drill bits, small chisels, etc.). Assuming both run as well as they look, the prices are at the upper end of fair. Fair being predicated on the fact that you're dealing with a charitable organization, where your payment goes to support a good cause.

Some will probably say they aren't worth more than $20/25, if that, but you can't buy a new grinder as good as those for such prices.

Agree with WWII jeep. ... Your restore looks like the one I sometimes pop in as well as good will. Things seem quite high considering what they have invested. I guess they don't work on the high volume lower individual profit margin idea. :eyecrazy:

Thanks guys! I think I'll hold off on these. I may end up going with the Thor eventually, but it's been on the shelf for a month or so, so I'm guessing it's no hurry on my end. I'm just looking for a grinder for a little wire-wheeling, and buffing, not so much grinding. And you're right on cue about the prices at the Restore. Things always seem to be on the "higher" end, especially considering their inventory is based off of donations. Though, as you've mentioned, it's for a good cause, and a few bucks more isn't going to hurt.
 

joe.striper

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Picked this up a month ago for $25.00 Painted and rewired it. Nice little grinder from 1966. So cute. I used this until I got my 3/4 hp Dayton, which is a beast.
 

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McBrownie

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Homemade Alert! But, it is vintage. This is a 1950's 1/4hp Fairbanks Morse motor that was part of a "Shallow Well Home Water Plant" as is states on the nameplate. The pump seized up in the '60's and my dad paired up the motor with a Companion No. 1 arbor that I am sure he got for free. This was our bench grinder when I was a kid. It was marginal, at best. I decided to reassemble it (all original parts, including the belt! ;) ) and put a buffer wheel on it. Turns out that it is a nice little buffer! The fun part is that it has 4 oilers - 2 on the motor and 2 on the arbor. So, it needs a little maintenance each time it is used.

My question to the group:

1) Leave it "as-is"?
2) Give it a face-lift? (suggestions welcomed)
 

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jakemac

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Give it a face lift, but not a full restoration. Leave some of it's character to preserve the memories. :thumbup:
 

Outlawmws

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Basic cleanup. gold plating that would take all the character away, and it was never more than a work horse.

At that it's 10 X what I grew up with two stamped steel ball bearings (angles with a very LOOSE bearing supporting the shaft) lag bolted to about 6" or 4X4 and that bolted to the bench; and a buffer on one side, and a grinding wheel on the other with no guards and no supports, all driven with an old washing machine motor...

I KNOW that thing went from house to house as we moved at least 4, and probably 5 times...
 

McBrownie

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Give it a face lift, but not a full restoration. Leave some of it's character to preserve the memories. :thumbup:

So, are you thinking clean the motor, arbor, and paint the wood? I like that idea, but I don't think I would repaint the broom handle "handle". That is part of the character. :)

It really needs a new cord. And, that switch needs a proper box. Also, the motor has about 1/8" play side to side. I'm thinking a bronze washer might fix that.
 

McBrownie

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Basic cleanup. gold plating that would take all the character away, and it was never more than a work horse.

At that it's 10 X what I grew up with two stamped steel ball bearings (angles with a very LOOSE bearing supporting the shaft) lag bolted to about 6" or 4X4 and that bolted to the bench; and a buffer on one side, and a grinding wheel on the other with no guards and no supports, all driven with an old washing machine motor...

I KNOW that thing went from house to house as we moved at least 4, and probably 5 times...

Thanks for the "10 X", Outlaw. My dad, who passed years ago, always looked at bench grinders at Sears when I was a kid (they had to be blocks), but never pulled the trigger. So, I now have an old block grinder like he always wanted and feel the need to give his homemade "block" a light cleaning. I'll post "after" pictures.
 

jakemac

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So, are you thinking clean the motor, arbor, and paint the wood? I like that idea, but I don't think I would repaint the broom handle "handle". That is part of the character. :)

It really needs a new cord. And, that switch needs a proper box. Also, the motor has about 1/8" play side to side. I'm thinking a bronze washer might fix that.

I was thinking - clean and lightly sand the wood, getting rid of the dirt but leaving the patina. Then stain (not paint) if needed and polyurathane the sh*t out of all the wood. I'd then repaint the cross bar and dirty it up a bit before sealing it.

The motor can be rewired, as well as boxing the switch. The motor and arbor stand can get cleaned, buffed, and then sealed with clearcoat. Degrease the arbor spindle and pulleys and give them a little shine, but not a full on polish.

OK, maybe I did put a little thought into it. :lol_hitti
 

Outlawmws

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For the wood, I'd clean with Murphy's oil soap. It will take the surface grim off without damaging the wood and the oil in it will help the wood itself. Then see where you are at. I use Murphy's a lot on wood hammer handles and other old bare wood.

Did your dad ever paint the wood? if not keep it so he would recognize it; because you will also...
 
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