Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!
- Thread starter 48James
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
gun99 - Very well done! That is one stout grinder, almost ~100 lbs & 3/4-HP.
You can find the missing parts on-line or OEM from Baldor and Mattblast has already made some/all the foil badges for my Baldor restore.
You can find the missing parts on-line or OEM from Baldor and Mattblast has already made some/all the foil badges for my Baldor restore.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Yep big Baldors are not cheap and I’m sure your bride will be more impressed once you take a rusty tool and sharpen or shine it up in a few minutes using it.
Isaiah6113
Well-known member
So I sent him an offer Saturday morning and picked it up at noon.
Is there a 12 step program for people addicted to buying metal cabinets, grinders and vices?
I think I need an intervention, and my wife does too.
I think it's 60's vintage, very complete except for the water pot. The hook for the pot is there, so have a 1/2 9/16 box end hanging on it.
Sent from my SM-T290 using The Garage Journal mobile app
1964
According to the Magic Decoder Ring
Those are fantastic grinders. I’ve had 9 of them over the years, managed to hang on to four. The only drawback is they are 7” grinders. 7” stones are still made, but the writing is on the wall I fear.
Matthew
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Bugeyed Earl
Well-known member
There's an interesting part of a Rockwell guard on eBay (not my auction) for a not unreasonable price if you're in need, that's got to be tough to find:
royudc
Well-known member
Hey Matthew, thanks for the year of manufacture info, I've bookmarked that page for future reference.
I bought a wheel for the other Triple Duty I have a little while ago but I agree with you, they could become scarce pretty soon.
This one has two brand new wheels on it but they're the softer green ones. I'm trying to be careful what I use them for.
Ron
I bought a wheel for the other Triple Duty I have a little while ago but I agree with you, they could become scarce pretty soon.
This one has two brand new wheels on it but they're the softer green ones. I'm trying to be careful what I use them for.
Ron
Picked up an older Baldor grinder with the handle on top. All cast iron, including the rests, and weighs a solid 33lbs. Runs smooth as silk. Needs a plexi shield, but otherwise completely all original. I found info on it and attached the 1955 catalog listing---Type S7146. Btw, $57 in 1955 is worth $572 (10x) in today's money, so those were expensive grinders back then!
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That's awesome. I have a #1 that I still use.American grinder mfg co
Hand grinder
Seems to be a No.2
Mintgrun
Well-known member
Bench grinder motor burned up? No problem!
Not mine, (nor is it going to be). Just a silly ad on FB marketplace.
Ad says, "bench grinder in good condition."
Not mine, (nor is it going to be). Just a silly ad on FB marketplace.
Ad says, "bench grinder in good condition."
Outlawmws
Well-known member
They don't even have the wheel facing a reasonably usable direction...
royudc
Well-known member
Seems like a good way to make use of those off-shore grinders, using a north american made motor to drive it!
Ron
Ron
park city flyer
Active member
It looks like a Prairie brand . I used to see them in the Silvo Hardware catalogs back in the '70's.Hi guys I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this bench grinder? The grinder & motor have been separately sourced from yard sales etc. the motor is an old Gryphon, but I'm not sure about the grinder...
The grinder body has the letters 'G4' cast on the inside where the pulley runs.
Picked them both up for $25 including a steel mounting stand
All comments welcome...
Tom
ncgun99
Well-known member
Has anyone found a spray paint that is close to the original Baldor blue/gray?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I rebuilt a 7312B Baldor grinder and used a Sherwin-Williams paint.
See Sun Mar 29, 2020 7:26 pm post, in this thread -> https://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=212522
ncgun99
Well-known member
Thanks Torqueman. I did a paint match with a vidmar to complete a base I built to match. Your grinder looks great.
I will have to consider going that route if I can’t find a spray.
ncgun99
Well-known member
Forgot to ask how that paint is holding up?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
It looks like 'new', but it doesn't get daily use. I'd use it again.
BeezaPilot
Member
Still a way to go on it, need to make / find tool rests and get it assembled on a stand. Kind old man gave me the grinder, came out of the Collins Company factory back in the day. Cleaned it up a bit, babbitt bearings in good shape and run smoothly. After 30 years of tripping over an old Dayton motor with an 11:1 Dalton step down gear unit, I finally had use for it! (See! Never toss anything, right?). Disassembled the gear reduction and the transmission is like new inside! The grinder was designed to run on a 3" overhead leather belt at a fairly slow speed, so turned an oak pully and will use an automotive timing belt inside out to power it. With the 11:1 reduction and the larger oak pully, should give me about 375 feet per minute on the grinder. True the stones, add a water drip and I'll have a fine tool!
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ncgun99
Well-known member
Out of town all summer but getting back to this thing. Finally got all of the replacement parts in. Need to put a new cord on it. Then paint. Probably go with tourqueman2002’s idea and get a paint match brush/roll on.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice score. What HP and model number?
BTW - check with member Mattblast for replacement tags: ON/OFF, American Flag, ....
BTW - check with member Mattblast for replacement tags: ON/OFF, American Flag, ....
ncgun99
Well-known member
It’s an 8250W and has a 3/4 hp motor. This thing is the smoothest grinder ever. There is an absolute difference between these and box store grinders.
I recently finished cleaning up this old 1/3HP Milwaukee/Kingston-Conley bench grinder from circa 1949.
Replaced the starter cap (not pictured), bearings and some fasteners here and there. Added a fuse to the circuit, along with a screw terminal block from circa 1920 for easier wiring access and maintenance and also remade one missing spark guard.
It works beautifully, runs smooth and more than serves my small home workshop hobby needs.
I looked into getting vintage period-correct eye guards but they were hard to get and more expensive than what I could put together from modern components so I invented my own solution.
The grinder came with 1/4"-20 threaded holes for eye shields on either side from the factory, so I found some articulating camera-gear arms from smallrig that have 1/4"-20 thread screws on either end. Then got what's called a "cheese bar" (chunk of anodized aluminum bar with plenty of pre-tapped holes for camera rigs) to connect a sheet of polycarbonate to the arm. No machining or permanent mods to the grinder needed, just some drilling and shaping of polycarbonate and thats it. Probably cost me a total of about 130$ for parts for both shields (import costs to Iceland bump that up from what it would cost in the US)
Those arm are crazy good. They're more than strong enough for any kind of impact, they have built-in thrust bearings on the screw and are super quick and easy to adjust to whatever angle. I'm really happy with them.
Replaced the starter cap (not pictured), bearings and some fasteners here and there. Added a fuse to the circuit, along with a screw terminal block from circa 1920 for easier wiring access and maintenance and also remade one missing spark guard.
It works beautifully, runs smooth and more than serves my small home workshop hobby needs.
I looked into getting vintage period-correct eye guards but they were hard to get and more expensive than what I could put together from modern components so I invented my own solution.
The grinder came with 1/4"-20 threaded holes for eye shields on either side from the factory, so I found some articulating camera-gear arms from smallrig that have 1/4"-20 thread screws on either end. Then got what's called a "cheese bar" (chunk of anodized aluminum bar with plenty of pre-tapped holes for camera rigs) to connect a sheet of polycarbonate to the arm. No machining or permanent mods to the grinder needed, just some drilling and shaping of polycarbonate and thats it. Probably cost me a total of about 130$ for parts for both shields (import costs to Iceland bump that up from what it would cost in the US)
Those arm are crazy good. They're more than strong enough for any kind of impact, they have built-in thrust bearings on the screw and are super quick and easy to adjust to whatever angle. I'm really happy with them.
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This is my recently completed 1940, belt-driven Delta No. 1282 Buffing Head. Still need to complete the stand and connect to motor. I’d been looking for one for a while and came across this on FB marketplace last year.View attachment 1519234
Mintgrun
Well-known member
This is for sale on Facebook marketplace and I'm sharing just because I thought it was clever the way they used one side of the grinder to power a dust collector for the other side.
Sani-Grinder Model 704
- Drum sander -
For Orthotic shaping
$150
Listed 10 weeks ago in Seattle, WA
Tom
Sani-Grinder Model 704
- Drum sander -
For Orthotic shaping
$150
Listed 10 weeks ago in Seattle, WA
Tom
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
lafester
Well-known member
I found another Stanley yesterday on my way home from NY. I can't pass up a pedestal even if I have to lug it 1700 miles. I love the power switch on this one and it will probably end up as a buffer. $75
I see the 557 in the early catalogs (1935-39) and not in the later 49-55 catalogs. I'm not certain when the lit eye shields became available... I would imagine this machine was one of the first to get them. I believe there is a government badge below the switch that I still need to get a closer look at.
I see the 557 in the early catalogs (1935-39) and not in the later 49-55 catalogs. I'm not certain when the lit eye shields became available... I would imagine this machine was one of the first to get them. I believe there is a government badge below the switch that I still need to get a closer look at.
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I have a few bit only 2 are interesting really.
I haven't done anything with either of these yet.
I have this old enox, bought as it was cheap. Done nothing with it. I had planned to use it as a buffer
But just recently I picked this old 10" black and decker up
This has already lost all it's grinder stuff and had some polishing spindles added.
It may be a little slow in the rpm though, but should have a load of torque and it came with some big mops so surface speed should still be reasonably high. Think the grinder is 1500rpm or similar.
I also have a foot powered grinder. A bit like a hand grinder but with a chain linked down to a foot pedal. It's a bit broken though, needs a fair bit of attention. Plan was to sort that and bolt it to the outside wall of the workshop for quick touch ups of the garden tools.
I'll grab some pics of that when I get round to sorting it. I think I may need some advice on that one, if I remember right some of the gears are broken and the freewheel is not in great condition.
I haven't done anything with either of these yet.
I have this old enox, bought as it was cheap. Done nothing with it. I had planned to use it as a buffer
But just recently I picked this old 10" black and decker up
This has already lost all it's grinder stuff and had some polishing spindles added.
It may be a little slow in the rpm though, but should have a load of torque and it came with some big mops so surface speed should still be reasonably high. Think the grinder is 1500rpm or similar.
I also have a foot powered grinder. A bit like a hand grinder but with a chain linked down to a foot pedal. It's a bit broken though, needs a fair bit of attention. Plan was to sort that and bolt it to the outside wall of the workshop for quick touch ups of the garden tools.
I'll grab some pics of that when I get round to sorting it. I think I may need some advice on that one, if I remember right some of the gears are broken and the freewheel is not in great condition.
snowpro90
Well-known member
Beautiful P-C grinder! AFAIK it was a novel design employing many of the Delta Rockwell features such as the narrowed (front to back) bell housings for more clearance, and the heavy cast rests. I've seen the Millers Falls version, and it is identical, but I have no idea who the OEM manufacturer was.
snowpro90
Well-known member
snowpro90
Well-known member
Hello. Very nice grinder! I just bought a Porter Cable bench grinder that is identical to your blue point. It is a 1/2 hp 7” model #547.
Miller Falls is another manufacturer that produced the same design.
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snowpro90
Well-known member
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Isaiah6113
Well-known member
Hi Jay,
Others may have mentioned this; you might consider removing the wire wheel from the right side. It will absolutely chew up your pristine tool rest over time. And wire wheels should really be used without a guard, that way when it catches the piece you are working, the piece will get shot towards the floor rather than at your body or face, or rip things to pieces inside if it’s trapped behind the spark arrestor.
Just sayin’,
Matthew
PS Love those K-C grinders!
Isaiah6113
Well-known member
This is for sale on Facebook marketplace and I'm sharing just because I thought it was clever the way they used one side of the grinder to power a dust collector for the other side.
Sani-Grinder Model 704
- Drum sander -
For Orthotic shaping
$150
Listed 10 weeks ago in Seattle, WA
Tom
I believe all these were manufactured by Handler Manufacturing.
Matthew
Bingo!
Mississippi333
Active member
I just noticed the same thing with the PC grinders. I just missed a 1hp PC on marketplace. It was identical.
lafester
Well-known member
My 1/2 hp Stanley is almost ready to get back to work. I hate painting but that white had to go... definitely not a show piece but functional.
Found some new SKF bearings, replaced the capacitor and added the vintage lamp. This will be a buffer for the moment so I am waiting on the extensions for that. I went with a 15 mfd cap but I am going to swap it out for a 20 like the old one for a little more power. I will eventually add some tool rests to have if needed. So far I like everything about these KC grinders except how hard they are to find.
Found some new SKF bearings, replaced the capacitor and added the vintage lamp. This will be a buffer for the moment so I am waiting on the extensions for that. I went with a 15 mfd cap but I am going to swap it out for a 20 like the old one for a little more power. I will eventually add some tool rests to have if needed. So far I like everything about these KC grinders except how hard they are to find.
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lafester
Well-known member
I found another KC grinder today, this one is an Atlas version. Unfortunately the tag is pretty well trashed like my Stanley... It appears to be a later model with a printed logo rather then embossed. I bought a pair of lit shields off ebay along with another tool rest so I now have enough parts for a complete grinder. This one definitely needs some bearing attention, but otherwise will stay green for awhile.
I like these enough that I may try to do a halfway decent restore on one of them, but it will be slow going over the next couple months. I assume the round cap is a run capacitor like the other, but I need to get a tester on it to see.
I like these enough that I may try to do a halfway decent restore on one of them, but it will be slow going over the next couple months. I assume the round cap is a run capacitor like the other, but I need to get a tester on it to see.
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slowtwitch73
Well-known member
I cant pass up a nice pedestal either... grinder optional lol....