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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
I couldn't find commercial loader cylinder supports/safeties/jacks that were any good or even close to the right size for my Ford 7109 loader (on a 2120 Ford tractor). Most people use angle iron, and I did too for my IH 284 and Kwik Way loader, but the 7109 doesn't really have a good flat spot for angle to purchase on the bottom, and I didn't really like how it would kick out, since I generally leave the loader up (supported) to save space, which means another tractor, etc might be right in front of it.

So, I used 2x2 square tube and some scrap plate to make my own. Exact height I wanted to avoid lights, overhead door, etc. I used small adhesive sliders/dots on the inside so it's essentially impossible to hit, scratch, or nick the rods when installing.

The ends that didn't have a nice perch do now, as I drilled holes whose ID would fit the OD of the cylinder pin boss. These freely pivot, and then there is a flat plate (relief plasma cut) which pushes against the end of the tube to secure the top side. I thought about adding tabs for a hitch/wire pin to ensure they can't be removed, and still might before paint, but gravity is on my side.

Don't mind the blue tape, I wanted to hide the rough edges so that they couldn't nick any chrome. Too cold to paint, no need to before summer; the stuff was already rusty anyhow. An aside, the new Hobart 27i Plasma did an awesome job on 120v for this project, even the plate. Far from good but good from afar, and much better than the Ask Tractor Mike or eBay ones. Naturally it was windy and raining/snowing, so the welds leave a little to be desired.
 

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Farmall450

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
I couldn't find commercial loader cylinder supports/safeties/jacks that were any good or even close to the right size for my Ford 7109 loader (on a 2120 Ford tractor). Most people use angle iron, and I did too for my IH 284 and Kwik Way loader, but the 7109 doesn't really have a good flat spot for angle to purchase on the bottom, and I didn't really like how it would kick out, since I generally leave the loader up (supported) to save space, which means another tractor, etc might be right in front of it.

So, I used 2x2 square tube and some scrap plate to make my own. Exact height I wanted to avoid lights, overhead door, etc. I used small adhesive sliders/dots on the inside so it's essentially impossible to hit, scratch, or nick the rods when installing.

The ends that didn't have a nice perch do now, as I drilled holes whose ID would fit the OD of the cylinder pin boss. These freely pivot, and then there is a flat plate (relief plasma cut) which pushes against the end of the tube to secure the top side. I thought about adding tabs for a hitch/wire pin to ensure they can't be removed, and still might before paint, but gravity is on my side.

Don't mind the blue tape, I wanted to hide the rough edges so that they couldn't nick any chrome. Too cold to paint, no need to before summer; the stuff was already rusty anyhow. An aside, the new Hobart 27i Plasma did an awesome job on 120v for this project, even the plate. Far from good but good from afar, and much better than the Ask Tractor Mike or eBay ones. Naturally it was windy and raining/snowing, so the welds leave a little to be desired.
Edit: can't seem to get the other two pictures to attach? Let's try snips:

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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
Cross posted by request.

My fifteen year old has decided lately that he shouldn't have to help with anything that doesn't directly benefit him. I had 9 crated tillers to move from the garage to storage. This moved a fork attachment for my garden tractor loader from the someday list to the now list.

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What do you think it'll lift?

Also, did you fabricate your own lightweight hang-on forks? Looks like the clamp on ones but more...hang on :D
 

rslaback

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Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
4,062
Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
What do you think it'll lift?

Also, did you fabricate your own lightweight hang-on forks? Looks like the clamp on ones but more...hang on :D
Hard to say, the hydraulics in that loader are pretty tired and leak down pretty quick.

I bought the forks at an auction. They were a hang on but without anything to keep them from angling on the bottom. That along with other clues make me believe that these were from a walk behind or other type of lift that does not have an angling mast.
 

sqznby

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Joined
Oct 26, 2013
Messages
982
Location
Coastal NC
I was fartin around with ole rocket stove/patio heater. It was getting hot, but you really had to sit close to it to really feel it. And with the short flew you'd get some smoke in our faces, and it was just too close for comfort. Sooo, I extended the flew to approximately 7'6" compared to the roughly 28" and I raised the feed inlet about 3 inches as well as raised the bed about two inches.
Look at the difference it made :)
I just whipped up a little storage to stand some wood up to dry it out faster but that started catching on fire haha. I put a couple of pieces at a time now. Now we have to move away because it gets so hot. But it works. Oh and I did move it further from my house to outer edge of my patio. I'm going to make a base for it out of some plate I have, with the addition height it is definitely tall. Its 4.5 od 1/8 wall DOM tubing and the collar is 5.5 od 1/2" wall DOM tubing I cut it half to sleeve it over the original flew.
And my neighbor just cut down several oak and hickory trees from past storm damage so, I have plenty of wood to last for a very long time. It likes to eat.
 

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elmer

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Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
246
Location
Detroit
Elmer, looks great. Is that a Ford 1920?
Ford New Holland 1715 bought new in 1996. Was told this was the last year New Holland was allowed to put the ford sticker on their New Holland Tractor's , after the deal to buy Ford tractor div.
 

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gearhead1

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Oct 14, 2013
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1,935
Location
NC
Like I said, fitting a flatbed onto the truck so it has to be a custom configuration, ain’t no OEM support for this application lol. That and I’m pressed for time so yeh. Not ideal but hey, it cleaned up okay:01B32BB6-C105-4A0D-9BC0-4FD50076B001.jpeg
Nobody will know what the weld looks like except us.

Some demolition derby rules say you have to have fuel tank inside of a fuel tank. Or basically your fuel tank has to be covered (Mounted in the back floorboard). So I use whatever I can get my hands on and then JB weld over the welds as a precaution. Never had one leak.
 

shanker

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Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
1,259
Location
Portland, TX
My kiddo has graduated from welding together pieces of scrap iron to working on actual working stuff. We took a gate that was in a dire state of repair, cut out the destroyed panel, cut out a rusted thru section on the bottom and welded in a new piece in, wire wheeled and applied corroseal, welded in a new panel and tabs to attach 2x6's, then cleaned up around the welds and painted with Rustoleum.
Next up is he has to build a matching gate that'll hang opposite of it from scratch.
 

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Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
Hard to say, the hydraulics in that loader are pretty tired and leak down pretty quick.

I bought the forks at an auction. They were a hang on but without anything to keep them from angling on the bottom. That along with other clues make me believe that these were from a walk behind or other type of lift that does not have an angling mast.
They certainly aren't a normal fork with that bead of weld and interesting architecture. Probably like you said, for a lower capacity high lift walker or stacker.
 

stinkity stoink

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Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
731
Location
New Jersey
my welding project to complete my welding projects. I got tired of setting up saw horses to lay my homemade top plate on.
put in some receiver tubes for tools and made an extension. I had some acme thread and a nut leftover from a previous project so I can make the extension adjustable. Even decided to put a swing out seat on it so I don’t have to chase my stool around. IMG_4219.jpegIMG_4220.jpegIMG_4221.jpegIMG_4222.jpegIMG_4223.jpegIMG_4225.jpegIMG_4224.jpeg
 
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y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
Messages
1,310
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Kudos! That is a well-thought-out bench you have made. Is there anything specific for the bead rolls and threaded openings on the bottom shelf?
 

mark-NJ

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Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Messages
769
Location
new jersey
In a different thread I mentioned that I had been given a "Rockwood Heavy-Duty" drill press. It's a late '70s Taiwanese model "120-IND" that was sold & marketed under many different brands & names. When I got it, it was in huge need of some love. It "worked", but was very rusty, the chuck was shot, wiring was scary, belts were shot, paint was gone, etc. So I set out to fix it up.

One thing I noted was that the column seemed to be an odd length. Certainly too short to call this a floor model, but on a bench the chuck was spinning at eye-height, and the lever handles were a high reach. It seemed too tall to be a bench model. Speaking only for me, the idea of the drill spinning at face height wasn't something I was comfortable with. So I set out to make a cart base for it.

I know it can be a controversial subject amongst welders & fabricators, but this project seemed a perfect candidate for old bed frames, so that's what I used for the framing. The bottom shelf is 3/4" thick steel and the shelf that the drill press sits on is 1/2" thick steel. This was done to lower the center of gravity and add stability. It seems very steady & not inclined to tip / fall.

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I have a good friend who owns / runs a sheet metal fab shop here in central NJ, and I asked him to fold up a box that I could use as a drawer. He folded it and I welded the corners. A set of Home Depot drawer slides TIG'd in place, and the base now has storage.

(He made 2 of these drawers for me...the other is unpainted on the bottom shelf. Haven't quite decided what to do with it yet)

IMG_3208.jpg

Some of you guys do some amazing welding projects, and by contrast this isn't much. But it's my "recent welding project", so I'm posting it.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 

Jeff Ivers

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
2,555
Location
Oklahoma
Nice job on the drill press and stand! I, too, love to use bed frames for fabrication projects - besides being free (usually found by someone's trash on trash day), they save a trip to the metal supply house that is many miles away. I like your solution for mounting your casters so that you avoided drilling into the frame material. I may "borrow" that idea on a future project.
 

mark-NJ

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Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Messages
769
Location
new jersey
Thanks, guys!

The other thing I like about bedframes is that there's no millscale to deal with. Just grind off the paint and you're off to the races!

There's a mattress factory that sells direct about 3 miles from my house. When they do deliveries, they take away the old mattress, box spring and frame. Their dumpster is always full of steel, and they've always told me I can take whatever I want. Doing so is actually doing them a favor!

@Jeff Ivers ....yes, I make the frame, then weld a 1/4" caster plate onto it. The caster is only bolted in 3 places, but that's plenty...it's not going anywhere.
 
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shortykorte

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Joined
Sep 1, 2014
Messages
8,034
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
I was like 1 foot from the door, I thought I was safe. I should have just pulled some stuff out of the shop, but I didn't want everything getting wet. 🙃
On the 2x2, I assume you cut off one side to make it C channel? Not sure if I’ll need for my loader but definitely seems like a good idea if you’re going to have the loader in the up position for awhile.
 

shortykorte

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Joined
Sep 1, 2014
Messages
8,034
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
Nice job on the drill press and stand! I, too, love to use bed frames for fabrication projects - besides being free (usually found by someone's trash on trash day), they save a trip to the metal supply house that is many miles away. I like your solution for mounting your casters so that you avoided drilling into the frame material. I may "borrow" that idea on a future project.
I’ll have to remember also. Bed frame cuts find but I find drilling in it painful. The caster pads solve that issue.
 

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,461
Location
Upstate New York
I agree. Cheap, 120V flux core only machines I believe are the reason flux core MIG has a bad reputation.
Depends on the machine. I used my dual voltage, flux or gas, MIG machine to weld half inch bolts with flux core off a 120v supply on the end of a 100' extension cord. I was pleasantly surprised.
 

Crazyjake8493

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Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
3,951
Location
Upstate NY
I agree. Cheap, 120V flux core only machines I believe are the reason flux core MIG has a bad reputation.
They're cheap and accessible, so someone gets one as their first welder with no knowledge and tries to weld up an exhaust that's rusted through. Then they blame the machine when it "doesn't work."
 
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