No kidding, I hadn’t thought about making my own but I do have a couple extra air hammers that could be repurposed.
I also like that rotisserie socket rack. I’d seen them before but forgot all about them. Pretty darn slick they are
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
I also like that rotisserie socket rack. I’d seen them before but forgot all about them. Pretty darn slick they are
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Well, my nice portable vise stand (that I built so I can grind outside)
has one glaring flaw: The leveling feet are too hard to use, so I don't and just deal with it being unstable. The 'feet" I put on it are just carriage bolts and take a wrench to adjust.
Can't have that.
Step one:
Use the Hippie-okie lathe to cut down some 3/8 NC SS nuts to fit nicely inside of some SS 5/8" nuts.
Like that. That'll give me a "knob" to make it easier to use the levelers.
Put some longer screws in for the levelers and screw the new, bigger nuts onto them:
Plug weld them:
That'll be much nicer. Now I can have a vise that rolls but doesn't rock, regardless where it sits.
The hardware is all recycled from decommed equipment.
has one glaring flaw: The leveling feet are too hard to use, so I don't and just deal with it being unstable. The 'feet" I put on it are just carriage bolts and take a wrench to adjust.
Can't have that.
Step one:
Use the Hippie-okie lathe to cut down some 3/8 NC SS nuts to fit nicely inside of some SS 5/8" nuts.
Like that. That'll give me a "knob" to make it easier to use the levelers.
Put some longer screws in for the levelers and screw the new, bigger nuts onto them:
Plug weld them:
That'll be much nicer. Now I can have a vise that rolls but doesn't rock, regardless where it sits.
The hardware is all recycled from decommed equipment.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I had a set of crutch feet sitting around, surplussed from... something, so I slipped them over the nuts and:
Now it's done.
For the self-dope-slap of the day award:
As I also use the vise to weld outside, or when I need to hold something lower when welding, I added a nice copper ground lug a while back.
When I went to clamp the ground on today, I looked at that ground lug... then looked at the stainless steel handle.... DOH!
Now it's done.
For the self-dope-slap of the day award:
As I also use the vise to weld outside, or when I need to hold something lower when welding, I added a nice copper ground lug a while back.
When I went to clamp the ground on today, I looked at that ground lug... then looked at the stainless steel handle.... DOH!
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Looking back on the excess ground lug, I think I'll just move it down to the base of the stand. That would mean no hanging ground cable to trip over when welding.
And a good excuse to burn some more wire!
And a good excuse to burn some more wire!
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, I wouldn't be allowed outside. My welds are classified as crimes against humanity.I wouldn't be allowed in.
Ever.
And I am OK with that.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I went to move the ground lug on my portable vise stand to the bottom frame today and remembered that the bottom frame is stainless--I only painted it because I was too lazy to mask it at the time. Instead of moving the ground lug, I just ground some of the paint off the base... ground point. I improved the electrical bonding from the lower frame to the vise mounting plate and now I'm good to go.
lolaetype
Well-known member
When I bought the E-Type it didn't have a jack. I liked the style so I made one. Later I acquired a factory jack. My home made version is on the right. It's stouter than the factory jack.
I'm not a great welder, but I do visualization well.
I'm not a great welder, but I do visualization well.
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Welding is hard.
Grinding is easy.
I'm beginning to think we might need a "Show Your Grinding Thread."I wouldn't be allowed in.
Ever.
And I am OK with that.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Problem is, if you do it right, theres nothing to see...I'm beginning to think we might need a "Show Your Grinding Thread."
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hey, it would only be fair since Ryan just started " Woodworking Fabrication and Techniques".I'm beginning to think we might need a "Show Your Grinding Thread."
Grinding ****. I'm getting excited.
I'd be on that thread like a twelve year old boy in the bathroom with a Victoria's Secret catalog.
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y'sguy
Well-known member
When I bought the E-Type it didn't have a jack. I liked the style so I made one. Later I acquired a factory jack. My home made version is on the right. It's stouter than the factory jack.
I'm not a great welder, but I do visualization well.
That looks great. Can you show more of how the jack you built operates?
larry4406
Well-known member
I'm beginning to think we might need a "Show Your Grinding Thread."
Grind hub?Hey, it would only be fair since Ryan just started " Woodworking Fabrication and Techniques".
Grinding ****. I'm getting excited.
I'd be on that thread like a twelve year old boy in the bathroom with a Victoria's Secret catalog.
lolaetype
Well-known member
y'sguy
Well-known member
Very cool.I've been looking for something similar for w=awhile now. Low profile that is stable. For emergency on the rode use. Not a.high priority, but it stems from the fact that one cannot buy a decent low profile scissor jack or the like that will do a decent job in the event of a flat tire off the beaten path. I used to have an old model t jack that did that very thing but it disappeared over the years. It folded very flat as I recall.
ObnoxiousFumes
Well-known member
I like that. I like that a lot.
Looks a lot safer than the widowmaker jack in my Volkswagen, and much slimmer profile for storage.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I had one for my Jag. It was based on a regular 60's pump jack, cause I hated the factory jack.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fabricated new coolant tubes for our motorcoach. Used the OEM carbon steel tubes as templates to pattern the new ones that I decided to make out of 304 stainless steel.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
You even back-gassed!Fabricated new coolant tubes for our motorcoach. Used the OEM carbon steel tubes as templates to pattern the new ones that I decided to make out of 304 stainless steel.
Need a part-time gig at a brewery in the boonies of NE Oregon?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Do you have any issues with your bead form? I have been thinking of getting one. It will be a lot faster than using a die and air hammer.Fabricated new coolant tubes for our motorcoach. Used the OEM carbon steel tubes as templates to pattern the new ones that I decided to make out of 304 stainless steel.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, probably overkill for a cooling system, but overkill is underrated. When my son and I built his stainless steel exhaust system on his WJ I also purged it during welding. Just something rewarding about knowing the job is done properly and thoroughly.
No issues, although the stainless steel does push its limits and I have to tighten in smaller increments. I've had this bead form for at least 20 years now and it has never let me down. Not something I use often, but when it's needed, nothing else comes close for a home shop.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I don't think it's overkill. I think it's doing the job right.
Most people don't realize what "sugaring (decarbonization)" is, nor how big it can be. A 1/4" high band of rough, crusty sugaring in a coolant pipe will definitely increase turbulence and decrease flow--not good in a cooling system.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
What gauge or wall thickness did you use. Most of what I do is schedule 10 pipe. (.109”)
I use Harris solar flux most of the time on the back side on pipes or large welds, so I don’t have to fool with back purging, although I wouldn’t do it on food grade stuff
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Solar flux works best when you have good access to the backside of your project--not so much halfway down a pipe.
For stuff like SS kitchen counters, I'll use the Solar flux backed by a copper plate. It helps.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Tubing was .065". I believe they make a heavy duty version now that would handle thicker materials.
MARKSTANG
Well-known member
I decided I needed a cart to get my welders up off the floor. After 30 years my back was complaining more than my OCD.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Most of the time it’s an exhaust system and I don’t care if it’s left.
I have done some coolant tubes on class 7/8 trucks like zmotorsports but they were much shorter and just 45’s or 90’s on at the ends where I could get a mini needle scaler and scotchbrite wheels to get most of it off.
Jagmandave
Well-known member
So the sugaring doesn't affect the weld strength, it's mostly a cosmetic issue? (or as noted it can affect the flow inside a pipe)
Firebrick43
Well-known member
It can create stress risers and corrosion issues. So it really depends on the application
Beerhippie
Well-known member
As Firebrick notes, the "sugared" areas are no longer stainless and will corrode. The HAZ is also no longer stainless, but can be restored by acid passivation--the sugaring, not so much, as it's deep.
In our case--process piping in a brewery--the sugaring also means the piping can't be properly cleaned and sanitized. The insides of the pipes have to be as close as possible to perfectly smooth, which is why the welds are also fitted to within one-hundredth RCH and fusion-welded only.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes you can totally weld SS with a MIG, but the weld/HAZ is no longer SS, and will rust/corrode. I welded up our presilencer at Laguna Seca after it oil-canned, and split open with a little Lincoln 120V flux core welder. I got us through the rest of the race, but we got rid of it after that. We also never ran there again due to the draconian noise restrictions.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
The only times I've been to Laguna Seca (Iguana Seca) were for concerts... didn't seem to be draconian noise limitations on those!
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It depends on who is renting the track.
KwikFab
Well-known member
I forget this thread exists.
Finished welding up my stool.
Finished welding up my stool.
mattthemuppet
Well-known member
Made a base for the laundry dryer using a weird flange thing I got in an auction and a bunch of assorted scrap. The collar I turned to fit the pile and drilled/ tapped the holes for thumb screws. Worked well today 
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
How does it engage the ground?Made a base for the laundry dryer using a weird flange thing I got in an auction and a bunch of assorted scrap. The collar I turned to fit the pile and drilled/ tapped the holes for thumb screws. Worked well today
mattthemuppet
Well-known member
the base is buried to about an inch above that flange. Once the soil/ clay gets wet and tamped down it should be very solid.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
OK. Here with our clay, a good rainy, windy day and it's in the mud. I'd at least put a big *** spike through each of the holes in the little arms. Or weld a 3 foot pipe to the bottom, so you could drive the base with a post driver.
mattthemuppet
Well-known member
Good things to remember off it comes out. I like the spikes idea!
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
whenever I get some free time and motivation I like to learn something New or better my skills in something.
I dove back into metal shaping again over the last few weeks of spare time. I have an old fender in my shop I use to try and recreate. Last time I did it the patch in this area was 4 pieces that I welded up. This time I made it in 2. progress
I dove back into metal shaping again over the last few weeks of spare time. I have an old fender in my shop I use to try and recreate. Last time I did it the patch in this area was 4 pieces that I welded up. This time I made it in 2. progress
