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zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
The front axles on the new Jeep JKs are somewhat prone to breaking between the pumpkin and the right upper control arm mounting point during extreme off-roading conditions.

I am not what you would call an extreme hard-core off-roader but I do plan on using this Jeep to explore off the beaten path. I am a big believer in addressing any and all known issues prior to pushing them to their limits. I doubt very seriously I will ever push this to the extreme that I have seen some of these break but I wanted this Jeep capable to say the least.

The wall thickness of the factory tube is 1/4" so by adding an inner sleeve that is also 1/4" wall thickness this give a 1/2" wall axle, not the same as having a true .500" wall axle tube but close.

I figured I was in there doing gears and axle shafts already I might as well add the sleeves and the "C" gussets to add overall strength to the front end of my Jeep.

Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
I fabricated a front crossmember to handle the duty of being an attachment point for our towbar when it will be towed behind our coach. I also was disappointed in the thin gauge material that Jeep chose to used as protection for the electric actuator for the sway bar. This crossmember will perform both duties, an attachment point and extra protection for the sway bar actuator.

The tube is 2"x .250" wall thickness and the four attachment brackets are .375" thick steel with .750" holes for the towbar pins. The brackets coming down from the frame are .500" steel and bolted using two 5/8" and one 1/2" bolts per side.

Here are the main players in the early stages of prep.
2mrwbgh.jpg


Here is the down bracket bolted to the Jeep. I fabbed a nut plate with the 5/8" and 1/2" nuts on the back and slipped it up inside the frame bracket.
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After deburring and a test fit.
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Test fit and tack welded in place.
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After final welding and ready to for final fit test.
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Final fit on Jeep.
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It is off to the powder-coater now and hopefully I will get it back this next week for final installation.

Mike.
 
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krzemienr

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Schaumburg, IL
Couple of my projects:

Headache rack for my truck:
Test fitting:
DSC_0613.jpg

DSC_0616.jpg


Primed:
DSC_0618.jpg


Painted/Installed:
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My little welding table made of scrap metal:
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Both of these were welded with the cheap HF flux welder.... have upgraded since to a miller gas unit.

Rafal
 

IONH

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
2,043
Location
Central Massachusetts
Nice projects everyone. I cringe at the cost of steel when I want to build something. I've honestly only purchased flat or angle iron steel from HD, Lowes or a local parts store, so I probably did not get the best prices.

Are the prices better typically better or worse in your experience at welding supply houses than the big box stores?
 

monkers

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
159
zmotorsports, what C gussets and sleeves did you use on your Jeep? What year is your Jeep, I have a 2010 2 door Rubicon, love it. Like you I have read about the axles, the Rubicon uses Dana 44s, but they say they are still prone to bending. I have been thinking about sleeves and C gussets, and maybe the Evo rear shock re-location brackets, Ive banged up the lower shock mounts in the rear a little. Any pics of the sleeve and C install?
 

hunter1151

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
202
Location
Kansas
IONH..........there are lots of steel outlets if you look around........we even have a scrap yard that sells new steel. I used to buy about 150K lbs a year before the recession hit and they sold their stuff for about what I was paying in bulk. You shouldn't be paying more then a buck a pound for steel
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
zmotorsports, what C gussets and sleeves did you use on your Jeep? What year is your Jeep, I have a 2010 2 door Rubicon, love it. Like you I have read about the axles, the Rubicon uses Dana 44s, but they say they are still prone to bending. I have been thinking about sleeves and C gussets, and maybe the Evo rear shock re-location brackets, Ive banged up the lower shock mounts in the rear a little. Any pics of the sleeve and C install?

My Jeep is a 2011 JK Unlimited Rubicon. I used the EVO Magnum 44 sleeves and the EVO gusset kit which also came with the LCA gussets.

Here is a picture of the holes drilled prior to slipping the sleeves into place.
2mwt7k3.jpg


Here are the rosette (plug) welds for the sleeves.
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Here is the lower control arm gusset welded in place.
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Here is on of the "C's" with the upper and lower gussets welded in place after painting.
14o2agz.jpg


If I can be of any further help don't hessitate to ask.

Mike.
 

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
The machine itself has no room to move but I went to a second place yesterday and they knocked off like 9 bucks off the machine, $30 off the 80 tank and a little off the helmet. I was going to hit another place today and see what happens. $30 on the tank is a lot of money.

Buy an Eastwood machine - same guts, different name, better gaurantee, HALF the price! www.Eastwood.com
 

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
The machine itself has no room to move but I went to a second place yesterday and they knocked off like 9 bucks off the machine, $30 off the 80 tank and a little off the helmet. I was going to hit another place today and see what happens. $30 on the tank is a lot of money.

Buy an Eastwood machine - same guts, different name, better gaurantee, HALF the price! www.Eastwood.com
 

mordantly

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2011
Messages
85
i'm reworking my HF pos 3-legged engine stand.. gotta wait till it's done for the **** shots of her.
 

mordantly

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2011
Messages
85
i am making it 4-wheeled and gusseted to eliminate flexing issues.. not that my >300# Honda engines make it flex, but i want to be able to put SBC on it without issue, and solve the prone to tipping issues.
 
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Jamesbbh

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 16, 2011
Messages
211
Location
Pensacola, FL
Those are awesome ^^ Love it!

Thanks man! I started a few years ago messing around with little stuff like this just to teach myself how to weld and now every one and their mom wants some kind of sculpture haha. :beer:

Couple more

Did this for my brother (army ranger)
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Middle finger salute

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n2ocamaro

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Messages
183
Location
Clarksville, IN
A wine rack I just finished (well except for some sanding and polishing) that will fill a gap between the wall cabinets in our new kitchen. We do not drink wine so I made the slots big enough for 2 liter bottles.
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grego

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
251
Location
Sac, CA
I'm far from a professional, but I do have quite a few items I've managed to hot metal glue together in the last several years.


The welding cart with the hydraulic converted bender on top. I don't know if I could get along without it.

BenderCartDay.jpg

I was wondering if the tig/ plasma cutter that is next to your Miller machine has worked out for you. I see them listed on C/L all the time and wanted a review.

I have been looking into some classes for tig at the local college and maybe picking up the tig and plasma combo on special from Eastwood. I would love a nice Miller watercooled one but I am not sure my abilities are ready for that kind of a machine.
 

jeohkrun

New member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
2
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I've noticed that a lot of guys like casters on their welding table. I came up with a better solution. Instead of casters on 4 legs, I used 10" wheels on 2 legs. The other 2 legs are a little shorter than needed so that I could weld 3/4" nuts to the bottom of them. The 3/4" bolts then make the legs adjustable. The solid legs with bolts are more stable than casters. To move the table, I lift the one end a couple inches and it rolls over debris and junk on the floor very easily. The lower shelf is close enough to the floor that if the table is too heavy, I can put a dolly under the lower support and move it like a trailer dolly. 8" and 10" wheels are cheaper than casters and hold over 400 lbs each.
 

Jamesbbh

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 16, 2011
Messages
211
Location
Pensacola, FL
James, good to see you post up some of your stuff over here at GJ! :thumbup: I've been a fan since seeing your thread over on JF. True artist you are!

Thanks a lot man! I'm finally getting paid to do one! woooooooooooo
3 years and probably 6 grand worth of tools/scars/free time when not at work and I'm getting $200 to do a marlin!Haha. I love it though, just messing around out in the shop coming up with stuff.

Drew it up
Picture040.jpg


Freehanded with sharpie then plasma

Picture041.jpg


Traced/cut out other side

Picture043.jpg


Started on base
Picture044.jpg


Nothing has been cleaned up or ground down yet and all of this was done in about 1 1/2 hrs :beer:
 

Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
I got my first welder around 2 or 3 years ago and have done tons of work on my project Jeep. Somehow, I forgot that I was supposed to make a cart my first welding project. I finally got around to it at the end of last year. I sketched out a very simple design that works great for me. I know it is nothing special compared to the very nice carts I've seen here, but after lugging my stuff around for 2 years, I LOVE IT! (the bench in the background was another weekend project a week or two ago)

IMG_0022.jpg


Most of the material came from my scrap pile or from the remnant section of my local supplier. I used 1" - 1/8 square for the framework, 18g sheet for the shelving, and 2" 3/16 bar stock for the shelving and tank supports.

IMG_0023.jpg


IMG_0024.jpg


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I've been lazy and haven't gone to buy a gas cylinder yet, but went ahead and designed in a space for it. Hopefully this will motivate me to go get it. I will either buy an 80cf or 125cf cylinder, which are both 7 in. diameter at my supplier, so I made a 7" diameter template to help me build the mount the correct size. The mount is two piece and when the knobs are tightened, the mount will tighten against the cylinder using 4 heavy rubber bumpers that I repurposed from the spare tire mount that I took off of my YJ several years ago. The back half of the mount is 3/4 square just because that is the free material I had on hand.

IMG_0026.jpg


The rest is just basic hooks and tabs that I made from some scrap rod and plate that I had in the bucket. I also added an on board outlet with a heavy gauge pigtail so I would have a second outlet for grinders or whatnot right next to me as I work. I used pneumatic tires for the rear so they can easily roll over small rocks or dropped fasteners should they escape my broom. The wheelbarrow style handles allow me to easily lift the front casters off the ground if I need to move the cart outside over gravel. I also added a scrap piece of 1.5" square to the front end to extend the caster mounts out and add stability. Angled and closed the corners of those to make them look a little better.

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Again, it's simple and basic, but it has worked out very well and I can easily add to it as the need arises. :thumbup:
 
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Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
1,080
Location
AZ
Firefighter,

I wouldn't roll the gun up so tight, you'll kink the liner over time. And it won't feed for chit and bind at the most inopportune time.
 

Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
That cart is looking awesome! It looks like something you could purchase like that :beer:

Thanks man! I've had several others who have seen it in person say the same thing. I kind of wish I hadn't been so basic and neat about it, so people can appreciate it for a homemade cart and not something they think came out of a store. :D

Being a fellow Jeep enthusiast, you know I am a bigger fan of built than bought.... :thumbup:
 

Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
Firefighter,

I wouldn't roll the gun up so tight, you'll kink the liner over time. And it won't feed for chit and bind at the most inopportune time.

Thanks for the tip! :thumbup: It just kind of falls into that size loop naturally. I can take a loop or two out of it and open the circumference a bit. I angled the hooks there to follow the natural flow of a coiled circle. They also double as a good place to lay the gun between welds if needed.
 
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BD1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2007
Messages
4,602
Location
north side
Pony pipe clamp storage
hi, could never decide on how I wanted to store the 3/4" pony pipe clamps. Used a recycled piece of 4" pipe with flange, weld plate to inside flange bottom, Dropped 3/4" threaded rod into flange holes and weld, cut 1/4"x2" flat stock 3/4" wide and welded to 1" pipe coupling and then weld to 4" pipe. With inside plate on bottom I store my bar clamps inside the 4" pipe.I should have done this years ago. Takes up very little space and you can spot the length of each clamp.
 

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Hephaestus29

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
2,975
Location
Indianapolis
There's two welding projects in this picture, the Gantry Crane & if you look over towards the wall you'll see the bars I welded up out of 3/16ths angle and bolted to the wall with about 24, 3inch x 5/16ths lag bolts

View media item 16394
 

alutig

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
7
Location
Norway
Made a weldercart for a buddy.. a present for his 35th birthday
kiyuf7.jpg

Gave it some powdercoat at work.
DSC00003-1.jpg

Its for an small Lincoln welder, mostly used for carwelding
 

AussieDan

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
298
Location
Syracuse, NY
Very small project this weekend, a base for my air compressor. I made the feet out of hockey pucks, a great idea I picked up here!

IMAG0098.jpgIMAG0103.jpgIMAG0109.jpg

Right now it's hanging up waiting for the paint to dry.
 
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