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Show us your welding projects

Jamesbbh

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 16, 2011
Messages
211
Location
Pensacola, FL
Little random something for my friend's wedding (his wife wanted a jazz band a while ago and I remembered)

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:rocker:
 
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alutig

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
7
Location
Norway
Hello. These days im welding the front fenders of a 58 saab 93b
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folding in the bottom lip. Never tried that before. Worked surprisingly well!
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Hole for the turn signal in the new plate
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A hole in the aft section too:sad:
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the backside
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Done
One more to go..
 

bauschracing

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Springville Alabama
Just finished my GOTTRIKES tubing bender. Ordered the plans last year and just did not the time to start. It is built out of a 20 ft stick of 2X2X1/4 and 4 feet of 3X1/2. The dies are from PRO_TOOLS in Tampa. The welds will never be used in the welding **** section, but I need more practice.

Mike
 

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Buckgnarly

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
7,648
Location
VT
Just finished my GOTTRIKES tubing bender. Ordered the plans last year and just did not the time to start. It is built out of a 20 ft stick of 2X2X1/4 and 4 feet of 3X1/2. The dies are from PRO_TOOLS in Tampa. The welds will never be used in the welding **** section, but I need more practice.

Mike

Wow.....what's the amount invested in one of those if you don't mind my asking? Got links too?
 

bauschracing

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Springville Alabama
The plans are under $20 and can get off his web. Use paypal and he sends you CAD plans. The ram was under $100 at Harbor Freight. I had the 3X1/2 plate but bought the 2X2X1/4 tubing for $74 at my local metal store. There are 2 pieces of 2X2X5/8 that was also scrap.
I used about 4 hole saws from lowes at about $10 each. 2 Tractor pins from Tractor Supply for $20 and 1 hardened shaft from McMaster Carr for $19.50 total (tax and shipping).
The dies range from just over $200 each and go up to just over $300 each. There is round tubing, pipe and square tubing dies available. This bender will bend up to 2 inch tubing. This is an air over hyd. set-up.
If you choose to build one of these, There are 2 models listed in the plans. Make sure to use only the drawings for your style. You also can print out a template to use on the swing arm, Printers might change the demensions so measure twice then again.

Mike
 

bauschracing

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Springville Alabama
Just finished it and have not had time to buy the tubing yet. Going to the metal store friday. By all accounts, this thig will do a good job. There is a kid on the buggies gone wild (golf carts) web site that built one of these benders and had started a company making hunting cages and brush guards for golf carts. You should see the bends that he makes.
He upgraded his bender with a full hyd. system. Looks like stuff from a hyd. log splitter.
If you build one, the dies will be your major expense. Get a few buddies to build a bender of their own and swap out the dies. I have a 1 inch die with a 5 inch radius that will bend 180 deg.
and my racing pal bought a 1 5/8 inch 7 inch 120 deg. die. This is all thats needed for a race car build. I may get a square tubing die for building things around the shop. My welding carts need to be rebuilt and the square die would be good for this.
I will let you know how it does next week.

Mike
 

IONH

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
2,043
Location
Central Massachusetts
Custom mounting a Borla muffler to a car I've finally gotten around to working on again. The muffler is a good 6-8" shorter than the OE muffler so I could not easily use the rear hangers. Hindsight, I could have just put a hanger on the pipe instead of on the back of the muffler and used the OE hangers after all.

There is a standard rubber isolator between the mount and the muffler hanger.









Welded a stub out for the muffler to a flange. Last year I didn't have much luck with this but this time it went pretty well. The gap between the flange and piping was probably 3/16" but I managed. I used the other flange which will be mating to it to help soak the heat and minimize warpage.

 

WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship
The BENDER, no not the BENDER on Futurama

.....I will let you know how it does next week.

Mike

Yeah, thanks Mike for the info and the update to come. I have seen a few of these benders come up in my reading, it is always nice to be able to "view" the results page, you know what I mean?
 

WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship
I have gotten in the habit when I have an important project that does not have to be done yesterday to sleep on it (uh, the idea), so I appreciate what you said about the hanger going on the pipe as opposed to what you actually fabbed up. But you got it working, that is really the deal n'est-ce pas?

May I suggest that you do a thorough inspection after a few hundred miles for any cracking/leakage? You know heat and vibration cycles can trash stuff quickly.....
 
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kool55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
Messages
382
Location
South Central VA.
This is a picture of the gates I finished last October. The stone guys finished up in November and I hung the gates in early December. The design of the walls, digging footers and and running the underground power was harder than making the gates.
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WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship
The S must be short for Sweet........

Uh, what he said- definitely!

As it is my tendency to design stuff that do unexpected things, could you post a photo with the gate partially open, its the way the "S" is going to open that intrigues me. If it somehow "undoes" itself as a symbol, then I will have to
label it :shocking:"Stumpified" :shocking: and that is a good thing.....
 

IONH

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
2,043
Location
Central Massachusetts
More exhaust work tonight. I was out there till about 12:45 this morning.









The exhaust is actually done being tac welded. Unfortunately, only about 12" off the ground, I can't get the mid section down. I'll jack it up tomorrow further to get it out and finish the welds. I managed to use all 45* or 90* bends for the whole thing. The only place I "cheated" was for the last piece where I notched the straight pipe back about 1/4" on one side so it would sit flat against the other pipe. This last piece fits between the two angles you see in the last picture.
 

nonhog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
2,449
Location
Arizona (Tucson)
tkdblackbelt, the forks are awesome and the bike looks pretty nice too.
Just can't warm up to the sissy bar. Looks just like a mailbox. :lol_hitti
 

Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
Finishing up an offroad light bar for my YJ. Started with 2X4x1/8 rectangle. Sectioned it and pulled the ends back slightly. The pictures will explain the rest. Hope to finish it up in the next week or so. I'm using a total of 8 Code 3 Three Up Optix LED modules. They are incredibly bright!

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Still need to mount the LEDs, get the wiring done, and paint. Then mount to the brackets and get it on the Heep. It's been a fun but very time consuming project. Lots of triple measurements and weird angles to deal with. Straight tube and sheet on a curved windshield frame. :tantrum2:
 

WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship
Thanks! Actually "borrowed" the general design from another JF member who does great fab work. Just making a few small changes. The LEDs are also new to this design.

Small changes indeed. I bet those consumed the most time & are now the reason this thing rocks.

Those cutouts are pretty cool, what technique did you use to cut them out?
 

Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
Nicely done.

Thanks! :beer:

Those cutouts are pretty cool, what technique did you use to cut them out?

I drew up a template, measured, and marked them out. Used a 4.5" cutting wheel to remove most of the material, then all the way down to a Dremel cutting wheel and then a die grinder to clean the edges up. All the circles were done with the drill press. The rectangle cut outs are my worst. They are okay, but I tend to be obsessive about getting things perfect. I drilled the four corners on each of them, then jigged out the middles. Cleaned up the edges a bit with a Dremel again and then a die grinder as well. Got all the mounts drilled tonight and one of the changes I made. Keeping those quiet until I'm done. :)
 
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Firefighter315

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Born & Raised in the Bluegrass
I like the lightbar FF315, I was wondering how you cut the shapes out, question answered.

Thanks! I know you are a "details" guy too, so I'm sure you understand my frustration with the front cut outs. :rolleyes: They will be fine I guess. It will all be painted black, so that will hide some of the imperfections.

I could have saved at least a day if I had waited until I had a press set up. The more metal projects I do, the bigger my wish list for shop tools gets. Press is on deck and tubing bender is in the hole. :rocker:
 

Mike.ASC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
880
Location
East coast
new here. figured i would make a post in here. been welding for about 3 years, started tig and aluminum about 1 1/2 years ago. most of these pics are random and old. have produced better stuff. i also have alot of car fab stuff i can post up that i built. anyways

some flux core
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1/8th stainless housing welded to handle
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oh and my garage. just a 13x30 storage unit that i work on the car in.

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Nice work sir.
 
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