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Show us your welding projects

vartz04

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
1,882
Location
LaSalle County IL
Thanks guys. Tested it out today hailing firewood. Bouncing over curbs and such. No bending or breaking.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
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works4me

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
250
Location
Houston Texas
I've finally gotten good enough with my welding that I'm not ashamed to show my projects. This is a stand for my grinder using a piece of 5" square tubing I got for free. Tig welded with 1/8" 2% thoriated:

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Hot Chop shop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
628
Location
Las Vegas
So the coffee table is all done and it's the first welding project that made it "inside" the house!

Here was the almost finished project :
ehugujym.jpg

qeqahe7e.jpg

Then wet sanding the clear coat didn't go so well so I decided to just wire brush the entire thing... (Sorry for the bad cell pics)

uruvaraz.jpg
 

BearCuda

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
596
Location
Martinsburg,WV
Here's some more of my mechanimals that I have laying around. The praying mantis was the first one I made. I make way better looking mantises now.
 

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works4me

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
250
Location
Houston Texas

toddoky

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2013
Messages
465
Location
Bowling Green, Kentucky
Down n' dirty truck cab dolly

Here's a dolly I whipped up today to support my 1979 Chevy truck cab I'm close to starting some metal repair work on. The best part about this project is that it was an exercise in cheapness as I only had to spend $65 on the wheels; the steel was from a re-purposed pallet racking end frame and two crossbeams I was able to cart home from the trash pile at work. I cut the crossbeams in half and mitered the ends at 45 degrees to form the square top frame and then cut up the end frame accordingly on my bandsaw to produce all the other members.
 

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stinkity stoink

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
729
Location
New Jersey
So the coffee table is all done and it's the first welding project that made it "inside" the house!

Here was the almost finished project :

Hot Chop nice table. You posted the end table up before and my wife liked it so I made one also. Thanks.
What did you use for the slab of wood. I know nothing about wood and I like that much better.
Thanks..
 

Hot Chop shop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
628
Location
Las Vegas
So the coffee table is all done and it's the first welding project that made it "inside" the house!



Here was the almost finished project :



Hot Chop nice table. You posted the end table up before and my wife liked it so I made one also. Thanks.

What did you use for the slab of wood. I know nothing about wood and I like that much better.

Thanks..


Thanks! I can't take credit I'm just a copy cat that saw a pic online and tried my best to recreate it, I wish I had that Artist eye. Is yours already done? If so post some pics! Curious what you used for the top???
I know nothing of wood working but watched a few YouTube videos and read some threads around here to get the basics. It's alder wood, I went to a lumber yard and asked an old timer wood worker there what I wanted to do and my lack of experience and he suggested alder. I had 3 planks to join together but quickly realized planning the edges to match up flat is another skill that seems easy enough when reading about it but not so easy when doing it...so I ended up only jointing two boards so it wasn't as wide as I planned but I was just very happy to be done with the glueing and sanding and staining stuff and get back to the welding and grinding stuff!
There are a few more details in my garage thread on the build.
 

F-117HWK

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
283
Location
Virginia
I usually cut for miters by cutting straight pieces to length, minus 2x the wall thickness (if doing both ends, say for a square). Then I just cut the miter for a 45 right to the inside edge of the tube.

This is a great point, I honestly never thought of doing it that way.

Any tips on getting the top nice and clean? I have tried a wire cup on my angle grinder and 80 grit on disk sander, and I am not making much progress lol.

roarksupply.com
These are the ones I order
 

tearlessj

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Messages
49
you mig welded this right. If you did then what wire size do you use and what gas? Ive laid a clean weld but never do they look like this. There always just solid all the way

ZT never gives out his secrets man lol. What you do want to do is turn the heat down just a notch and slow up the wire speed. The lower the heat the more form the bead is going to have. You can try different weave patterns and see what you like the most.
 

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
IMG_3024.jpg


Holy **** - I've never made a weld look anything like these. It must take a VERY STEADY hand and an INCREDIBLE amount of patience to continue the bead all the way through.

I gotta go practice....as soon as I get a TIG!
 
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coma13

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2012
Messages
247
IMG_3024.jpg


Holy **** - I've never made a weld look anything like these. It must take a VERY STEADY hand and an INCREDIBLE amount of patience to continue the bead all the way through.

I gotta go practice....as soon as I get a TIG!

That's MIG!
 

Aquaticbob

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Messages
488
Location
Seattle
My question about the length of bead is how it doesn't warp the metal. Anytime I try and lay something as long as that, suddenly my straight piece of metal turns in a crescent. I'm very new to welding, the best I've done is weld an old framing square to some sheet metal
 

stonewellmark

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Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
204
Location
Hudson Valley, N.Y.
Clamp your work to death, then wait until it cools before removing clamps. Removing them too soon will still result in a curve, im guilty of removing clamps as soon as the weld is done....bam instant curve as it cools.

Mark
 

Aquaticbob

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Messages
488
Location
Seattle
Clamp your work to death, then wait until it cools before removing clamps. Removing them too soon will still result in a curve, im guilty of removing clamps as soon as the weld is done....bam instant curve as it cools.

Mark

Thank you for this advice! I need to buy more clamps
 

Monkey_Wrench

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
55
Location
Sarasota, FL
Beautiful stuff guys.

I just picked up my used Lincoln 110V welder, and am getting set up.

Already had to make some tools for my "Euro Rat" to get the suspension and steering rebuilt.
 

Daddyoneleg

Active member
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
38
Location
Northern British Columbia
Clamp your work to death, then wait until it cools before removing clamps. Removing them too soon will still result in a curve, im guilty of removing clamps as soon as the weld is done....bam instant curve as it cools.

Mark

I find clamping straight,letting it cool,then removing clamps is not enough alot of the times.
If I want to have it come out straighter,depending on the shape and material,I like to tack it good then use clamps and shims to clamp it past straight in the opposite direction of the force then weld,cool,release. This becomes a learning game. Sometimes the weld does not even pull it to straight let alone curl up the piece.

I often back weld objects even though one weld is enough just to have the two welds counteract their forces.Or use flame straightning and quenching on the opposite side of the weld to pull it straight.

Weld forces can sometimes work in your favor if used right. -Cheers
 

toomanytoyzz

Well-known member
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
1,571
Location
Malvern, PA
I find clamping straight,letting it cool,then removing clamps is not enough alot of the times.
If I want to have it come out straighter,depending on the shape and material,I like to tack it good then use clamps and shims to clamp it past straight in the opposite direction of the force then weld,cool,release. This becomes a learning game. Sometimes the weld does not even pull it to straight let alone curl up the piece.

I often back weld objects even though one weld is enough just to have the two welds counteract their forces.Or use flame straightning and quenching on the opposite side of the weld to pull it straight.

Weld forces can sometimes work in your favor if used right. -Cheers

Are you doing all this to achieve those pretty looking beads? I just slow it down to reduce on the warpage.
 
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Daddyoneleg

Active member
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
38
Location
Northern British Columbia
Are you doing all this to achieve those pretty looking beads? I just slow it down to reduce on the warpage.

I do it to reduce warpage, it becomes fast and second nature.But I weld and fab every day at work for a living.I use mig and stick to weld alum,mild steel,AR, AND QT100.Every situation can be different if perfection is the goal. Right now I am building an aluminum river boat at home with spool gun and wish I had a pulsed mig unit like the boat companies use. Man that weld a couple of posts ago looks like its pulsed mig. Some people even take pulsed mig and hook it to a track cutter/welder with variable speed for perfection.
-Cheers
 

sirweldalot

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2013
Messages
52
Location
Plant City, Fla.
Some smokers.
 

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Rated ///M

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Messages
589
Location
Great White North
bump... Don't let one of my regularly checked threads die!! I've noticed a couple of postings that could have easily ended up in this thread being posted as a new topic over the last couple days.
 

WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship

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Timpala

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Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
124
Location
Lexington, KY

WakonTonka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
118
Location
The BORG ship

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