Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
ewils35
Well-known member
Very nice. I need to get in that type of field of work haha
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Very nice gate.
A**holes Garage
Banned
Steel cradle for DIY shuffleboard, finished in April
makgreens
Well-known member
Been practicing my tig welding and making some odds and ends for the house and bike
The table top was stained to match our chairs
Temp headlight bracket till I decide what I really want
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The table top was stained to match our chairs
Temp headlight bracket till I decide what I really want
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CUMMINS&CORONET9768
Member
Nice table. You should turn that bottom support into a web also. Would look cool
Nice bike project. Do you have a thread somewhere for the build?Been practicing my tig welding and making some odds and ends for the house and bike
The table top was stained to match our chairs
Temp headlight bracket till I decide what I really want
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makgreens
Well-known member
ClintNZ
Well-known member
Exhausting work....
Actually not too tricky as it can be easily removed to do all the welding on the bench. Axle swap & suspension mods mean no room inside the chassis. Wider axle gives room outside it.
Anybody have an opinion on how close you can run an exhaust to a tyre? This will be about 3-4" away. Adding a heat shield would be pretty easy if it's needed. We don't get a lot of real hot days here & the big mudders will create plenty of airflow.
Cheers
Clint
Actually not too tricky as it can be easily removed to do all the welding on the bench. Axle swap & suspension mods mean no room inside the chassis. Wider axle gives room outside it.
Anybody have an opinion on how close you can run an exhaust to a tyre? This will be about 3-4" away. Adding a heat shield would be pretty easy if it's needed. We don't get a lot of real hot days here & the big mudders will create plenty of airflow.
Cheers
Clint
Robert Hall
Well-known member
I cleared enough junk to make a new bookcase. This is the skeleton. Fleshing the shelves after a little break.
3/4 angle
Forgot to show the finished product...
And I didn't want to chase the foot pedal around so I made up this momentary switch. That is a sanity saver.
3/4 angle
Forgot to show the finished product...
And I didn't want to chase the foot pedal around so I made up this momentary switch. That is a sanity saver.
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makgreens
Well-known member
Hey Robert what model dynasty is that? And what torch? Also I have the momentary switch if you need one...I switched to a foot pedal and won't ever go back
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
It's the Dynasty 280. Thanks for the offer, but the switches were so much moola I made my own. I user the pedal when ever I can but being on the move the switch worked quite well.
Try using the pedal on a ladder or upside down
Try using the pedal on a ladder or upside down
makgreens
Well-known member
Ha I hear ya. I'm just getting started with tig welding and love having a pedal.
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Good deal. I'd keep the button. You know the moment you get rid of it you'll need it. :/
makgreens
Well-known member
Got any suggestions on cup sizes? Been using a 5&7 and it's helped me learn but want to find an all around size that's good
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Use the smallest one that maintains good gas coverage.
Too much gas can cause issues such as a venturi effect sucking outside air in the gas mix. That will cause problems.
If you start on stainless, a large cup can help. Stainless needs to stay cool.
I used a 7 on the steel there, 120 amps, 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.
Too much gas can cause issues such as a venturi effect sucking outside air in the gas mix. That will cause problems.
If you start on stainless, a large cup can help. Stainless needs to stay cool.
I used a 7 on the steel there, 120 amps, 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.
OP
neonnblack
Well-known member
Finally got a small 40Cuft tank for the welder. Decided i now needed a welding cart. Nothing amazing, but useable, and get to work on it with my dad, so thats cool also. He got the cart (for free woohoo) from work, and it messed around with it a bit. This is being designed on the fly, so i really dont know how its going to end up.
waterss
Well-known member
Still need to paint it. Shown in down/work position.
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Shown in up/move position.
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Shown in up/move position.
DarkMonohue
Well-known member
^That's about as slick as hog snot on a glass doorknob. I might have to copy that.
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
I cleared enough junk to make a new bookcase. This is the skeleton. Fleshing the shelves after a little break.
3/4 angle
Forgot to show the finished product...
And I didn't want to chase the foot pedal around so I made up this momentary switch. That is a sanity saver.
Nice work as always Robert.
How did you attach the wood to the sides?
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Thanks! The wood was attached like a vanir. I drilled holes in the steel frame , screwed it to the back wall and screwed the wood sides on. The shelf was built as a trough, that what's the shelf sits inside, covering the screws. I used two screws per shelf all the way up. Three-quarter inch wood screws.
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marinepride
Banned
A thermal couple spool holder i hacked together this morning
Rhyno
Well-known member
holy re-size!!!!!!!
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Built a new shock mount on a Jeep XJ for a client.
Mike.
Mike.
BellyUpFish
Well-known member
It's nothing too terribly impressive, but it's the largest welding project I've accomplished so far..
It's nothing too terribly impressive, but it's the largest welding project I've accomplished so far..
Cage for a Bronco?
BellyUpFish
Well-known member
It is..
Robert Hall
Well-known member
Finally getting around to building my TIG torch cooler.
Cutting the holes for the inlet bung and in/out ports
Did a good fit up and tacked often to avoid warping.
Set up for back gassing...
Then to the welding...
A little more to do but getting there.
Cutting the holes for the inlet bung and in/out ports
Did a good fit up and tacked often to avoid warping.
Set up for back gassing...
Then to the welding...
A little more to do but getting there.
Built a new shock mount on a Jeep XJ for a client.
Mike.
Where did you get the shock stud? I am building a D44 for my Xj and need one..
Nice welds!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. I just got the shock mount from my local NAPA store. It was on their "HELP" rack as a single mount/bolt. I think it was about four bucks.
Mike.
5Banger
New member
Looks great and sturdy enough to hold a tank! Nice job!
MagnumForce
Well-known member
Would you guys be interested in odds and end stuff a capital maintenance guy fabs up for industrial use? Fairly mundane racks and stands usually but sometimes neat stuff like the trolley and roller conveyor system I just built.
cwh
Well-known member
Post It. I guarantee someone will benefit from it (probably me).
MagnumForce
Well-known member
Here is what I have been working on this week at work.
Roller conveyors are a 10 foot sections with 2 foot sections at the ends. The center 2 sets closest together are welded as one piece together. Welded onto 4 x 3/16 inch plates with 5/8 inch holes to anchor them with 1/2 inch redhead concrete lags. 3 x 3 x 1/4 inch angle as a stop and the end and to keep forklifts from damaging the rollers more 5/8 holes there done with a mag drill since my drill press really wouldn't work well for a 147 inch piece of 3 inch angle like that.
The business end is a trolley system I came up with. More roller conveyor but with 2 1/2 x 1/2 cold rolled welded to the front and back with some great 2.5 inch wheels I ordered from McMaster Carr mounted to that. 1 inch tube handles welded to that and they roll on 1 inch angle with the point to the top, that has 2 x 3/16 plate with more 5/8 inch holes in them welded to the bottom of the angle at the outside of the trolley for clearance except on the ends. 1/4 x 2 inch plate stops finish it off.
My heights all worked out perfectly. If you are wondering what the heck it's all for empty Ropak Totes will come in on the center rollers and go onto the trolleys and to either side. Left is for a 40% rear split seat back and right is for the 60%. Once those totes are loaded down the rollers they go for the forklift to pick up. Will give us spots for 2 empties plus another stack of broke down empties in the middle where the forklift driver will drop them down as another set is used. Then 2 in process totes on the trolley of each part and then 3 finished totes on each side. Will save a lot of energy and space in the long run and the forklift driver can pick up a stack of three and head to the truck to ship out.
If anyone wonders these are Subaru Outback and Forrester seats. The conveyor, Robot and giant carousel resistance welder in the back is a hole other ball of wax as well as I did not build any of it but did do the installation. Next project is a reject rack going over the conveyor inside the cage that parts with defective welds will be dropped into. Still working that one out in my head but probably making a frame with one inch tube and then a sheet metal "chute" that I'll bend on the brake press. Figure out where to mount a prox switch so the robot knows a part is there and then design a door through the cage with another prox so the supervisor can reset everything as they pull out reject parts. Installed the cage today and have to finish off the end of it over the conveyor as well. haven't decided yet but I am probably going with something as simple as a piece of Lexan with the yellow floor striping tape around the edges so it looks better.
Never a dull moment for me at work, my boss moved to North Carolina 2 weeks ago so I am a one man show now. Learn something new every day and I absolutely love my job.
Roller conveyors are a 10 foot sections with 2 foot sections at the ends. The center 2 sets closest together are welded as one piece together. Welded onto 4 x 3/16 inch plates with 5/8 inch holes to anchor them with 1/2 inch redhead concrete lags. 3 x 3 x 1/4 inch angle as a stop and the end and to keep forklifts from damaging the rollers more 5/8 holes there done with a mag drill since my drill press really wouldn't work well for a 147 inch piece of 3 inch angle like that.
The business end is a trolley system I came up with. More roller conveyor but with 2 1/2 x 1/2 cold rolled welded to the front and back with some great 2.5 inch wheels I ordered from McMaster Carr mounted to that. 1 inch tube handles welded to that and they roll on 1 inch angle with the point to the top, that has 2 x 3/16 plate with more 5/8 inch holes in them welded to the bottom of the angle at the outside of the trolley for clearance except on the ends. 1/4 x 2 inch plate stops finish it off.
My heights all worked out perfectly. If you are wondering what the heck it's all for empty Ropak Totes will come in on the center rollers and go onto the trolleys and to either side. Left is for a 40% rear split seat back and right is for the 60%. Once those totes are loaded down the rollers they go for the forklift to pick up. Will give us spots for 2 empties plus another stack of broke down empties in the middle where the forklift driver will drop them down as another set is used. Then 2 in process totes on the trolley of each part and then 3 finished totes on each side. Will save a lot of energy and space in the long run and the forklift driver can pick up a stack of three and head to the truck to ship out.
If anyone wonders these are Subaru Outback and Forrester seats. The conveyor, Robot and giant carousel resistance welder in the back is a hole other ball of wax as well as I did not build any of it but did do the installation. Next project is a reject rack going over the conveyor inside the cage that parts with defective welds will be dropped into. Still working that one out in my head but probably making a frame with one inch tube and then a sheet metal "chute" that I'll bend on the brake press. Figure out where to mount a prox switch so the robot knows a part is there and then design a door through the cage with another prox so the supervisor can reset everything as they pull out reject parts. Installed the cage today and have to finish off the end of it over the conveyor as well. haven't decided yet but I am probably going with something as simple as a piece of Lexan with the yellow floor striping tape around the edges so it looks better.
Never a dull moment for me at work, my boss moved to North Carolina 2 weeks ago so I am a one man show now. Learn something new every day and I absolutely love my job.
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Cool! Is it made to shoot or just make noise?
I live in an old two story house that I cool with window unit air conditioners. There are some tricky tight corners to negotiate on the stairs when it comes time to take the upstairs ac’s out for cleaning. I looked all over the place for the narrower type two wheel dolly but couldn’t find anything available locally so I bought Harbor Freight’s cheapest one and decided to make a skinny out of a fatty.
I clamped the dolly to the table and measured where the axel should be to allow the tires to clear the frame and to let the plate rest pretty much flat on the floor with the dolly standing at rest. Then I fabricated a couple of temporary axel cradles to keep the axel in position while I tacked up the 1” x .125” extenders. I tacked the cradles on and after tacking up everything else they were cut off. I then welded everything permanently, cut the axel down and mounted the tires. Voila! Skinny dolly in a morning.
I clamped the dolly to the table and measured where the axel should be to allow the tires to clear the frame and to let the plate rest pretty much flat on the floor with the dolly standing at rest. Then I fabricated a couple of temporary axel cradles to keep the axel in position while I tacked up the 1” x .125” extenders. I tacked the cradles on and after tacking up everything else they were cut off. I then welded everything permanently, cut the axel down and mounted the tires. Voila! Skinny dolly in a morning.
