Seiler is that a 280dx with water cooler?
I won't be TIG welding the roots on the half cut side. The inside of the tube is covered in axle grease and dirt. I plan to root it with 6010, and either TIG or 7018 the rest.
It's only the 200DX with a water cooler. About a week and a half after I received my 200DX they announced the 280. I was pissed because the peak amperage on the 280 was exactly what I was looking for.

Hey Bud, how do you get these colors in your beads?
I'm getting a dull grey color using a #7 gas lens @ 12cfm and a #14 @ 20cfm.
I'm using the shop's HTP. I was trained on a miller and had no problems coming up with gold/blue colored welds.
Any help would be greatly' appreciated!
I think it comes down to technique with heat input and travel speed. I'm using a #7 cup with a gas lens as well, but my flow rate is around 20-25. You could try bumping up your flow rate a bit. I really focus on the information the puddle is telling me, whether I have too much heat/not enough, I'm traveling too fast/too slow or my angles are all jacked up and I adjust on the fly.
t100 brought up a good point, metal prep. I hit everything that has mill scale with a flapper wheel and wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol before I weld.
I do a slight up/down oscillation to help spread the puddle while I progress forward and I also "feed" the rod with my thumb. I don't dip. Next time I run a bead, I'll try to record a little bit of video. It's hard to explain but easy to show.
When I'm finished with a weld I also like to let the cup sit right where I stopped while the post flow runs out over the weld. Doing this is essential with stainless, but I find that it really helps with color on carbon steel as well.
Scott
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