Magneto
Well-known member
AWESOME! How did you make the flower?
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
AWESOME! How did you make the flower?
Rossco
Well-known member
Learnt how to weld when I was an apprentice many moons ago. It's all wire feed these days.
Here's a FRPS boss welded onto a fuel fuel rail. Very very thin, need to Argo purge.
How about some good old Cast Aluminium.
Guy at work finished that elbow off. I made a 'Pigs Ear' of it.
Currently doing a whole floor on a 63 Chev 4x4 using a Miller 211. See if I can get a few pics.
Here's a FRPS boss welded onto a fuel fuel rail. Very very thin, need to Argo purge.
How about some good old Cast Aluminium.
Guy at work finished that elbow off. I made a 'Pigs Ear' of it.
Currently doing a whole floor on a 63 Chev 4x4 using a Miller 211. See if I can get a few pics.
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These are made out of brass sheet. The petals are formed into a cup and then heated and bent into a tight bud. Then you heat it up and "bloom the flower".
kazlx
Well-known member
Little stainless action tonight.
kazlx
Well-known member
It's a blade for a juicer. Friend of a friend owns a few stores that use them and the blades are $200 each. I don't have a pic, but the blade and the center piece are separate and the center piece is square on the bottom and goes through a square hole in the grater plate. They run these things pretty much 24/7 when the shop is open and it wallows out the hole in less than two weeks. Trying to see if we can extend the life a bit on the blades...
Quite possible one of the crappiest drive designs I've seen and nowhere near how it should be designed for the power behind them. The drive hole is maybe a 3/8" square. Once the piece starts to wobble the whole thing starts to go to ****.
Quite possible one of the crappiest drive designs I've seen and nowhere near how it should be designed for the power behind them. The drive hole is maybe a 3/8" square. Once the piece starts to wobble the whole thing starts to go to ****.
Duker
Well-known member
Some sawhorses I built a few years ago. adjustable in 1/2" increments.
I would love to make a set of these... There have been many times I could have used them in the shop.
The only problem is they would cost me about 60,000 bucks. If I made them they would take up the last few square feet I have free in my garage. This would force me to build the new shop I need and to buy more tools to fill up the new space. It's a vicious cycle!
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Those really are awesome stands. Nice job!!!
saceone
Well-known member
yeah, really dig the stands !!
1953mercury
Well-known member
Nice looking stands. Look like they might be a pain to adjust? Mike
The tops are bolted on to the inner telescoping tubes. They are left a little bit loose so that the tubes can move around a little bit so that they are easy to adjust. If they were tight or welded then it would be tough adjusting.
Hole spacing on inner tubes is 1", outer tubes have 2 holes 1.5" apart, so then you get 1/2" increments.
Hole spacing on inner tubes is 1", outer tubes have 2 holes 1.5" apart, so then you get 1/2" increments.
saceone
Well-known member
I have to admit I did print the picture and keeping it in my "must copy" folder.
OCD
Well-known member
Titanium Man!! My friend Chris made that, he is a fabrication and welding guru!!
Here's the latest one,
https://scontent-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10533207_821921264521688_95418902743588828_n.jpg?oh=87ef0679bd6bc78cb0922be40cf66d11&oe=55918B91
Custom 3" exhaust he built for my car,
kazlx
Well-known member
I follow him on Instagram...all of his work is on point.
Welded up a couple of engine brackets...not very exciting, but I'll take the seat time anyway I can get it.
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I'm not much of a TIG welder, so excuse the stupid newbie question, but what amperage do you use for that thick of steel? Something else I've been wondering is if you can ever reach a thickness where additional amps don't really make any difference? (with either MIG or TIG) It seems like once you have such a thick chunk of steel, how much difference is the settings going to really have----I'm probably not being very clear on the question, but I hope you know what I mean! In other words----that steel looks pretty thick relative to the weld penetration, so would you still have to crank it up even more if the metal was another inch thicker?
Thanks.
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Depends on the overall work piece size (heat sink) and joint type. There is a general rule of thumb ~1 amp for every 0.001" of material thickness, but it is a very loose rule. Preheating the joint and surrounding material also can be of a great benefit, not only for thermal shock, but to prevent the workpiece from soaking up the heat (amps) as you travel along in the weld.
There is eventually a upper limit of how much you can properly fuse in a single pass, especially manually. Even though they do make machines that will output 700+ amps; multiple passes come into play as a solution long before that high amperage.
Play around with this to get a better understanding of material, thickness and joint type to see how they differ in amperage recommendations.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/tig_amperage_calculator.php
Same here---sometimes I think a straight bead on a root pass (in a multi-pass weld at least) might almost be better though, just because it's more continuous. That's how I think of it anyway. But on the cover, I'd always weave, of course.
On a single pass, I always do at least a slight weave or 'cursive e'.
nonhog
Well-known member
OCD
Well-known member
It's a 09' GT500, 651 rwhp, 649 tq, best time for now of 11.4 in the quarter...
Pic with the grocery getter wheels on!! Gotta get the ice cream home before it melts!!
OCD
Well-known member
He is a really great guy too!!
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Thought I was the only one. ***** getting old!
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Making a box to hold the tv remotes to keep my dogs from eating them (again)... And on the left is the start of my adjustable stool... I can't seem to find a stool that fits my needs so figured I'd try making one.
nonhog: looks like you're doing pretty good to me!
I too am getting up there and have had to use the "cheaters" for close up work and reading for over 20 years now. I've only been back into welding since 2012 and my solutions to this problem have been evolving. The photo is of my lower end HF hood to which I attached a broom handle wall bracket( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APLFHFW/?tag=atomicindus08-20) into which I clipped a good LED flashlight. This kinda works OK but the HF helmet hurts my head because the fit is terrible. My final solution was to pull the trigger on a Miller Digital Elite hood with a couple sets of corrective lenses to slip into it. Wish I had done this out of the gate! I can see much better now! I don't really need the extra light from the flashlight now but I did go ahead and finish my plans for a swing arm light (second photo). It lights up my little welding table from any angle like a stage show.
On "loosing the path" maybe you're hood is set too high? I found with the new helmet that a setting of 11 was way too dark and a 10 was just right for when the mm140 is at max setting. For the thinner stuff I have it dialed back to a 9.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
For me, I follow the 1 amp per .001" of material thickness up to a certain point. Whe you start getting .250" and over material thickness you should start thinking multiple pass to get the proper weld throat width.
I have found that the most I use even on thicker materials when TIG welding is around the 160-180 amp range. I will run a root pass and then come back with a top pass or two in a weave style bead to get full coverage of the root pass and to tie my toes into the parent material.
Also another thing that helps when you get up into the thicker materials is some pre-heat.
Hope that helpst to answer your questions.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Making a box to hold the tv remotes to keep my dogs from eating them (again)... And on the left is the start of my adjustable stool... I can't seem to find a stool that fits my needs so figured I'd try making one.
I would like to see both of these when completed.
Looks good so far.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Crazy_Pilot
Active member
A couple of my amateur projects:
Subaru wanted $50 each for these hangers that rusted out (car takes 2). $20 and a couple hours later I had my own. Lighter too, the originals were overkill.
And the exhaust I built for the car:
Subaru wanted $50 each for these hangers that rusted out (car takes 2). $20 and a couple hours later I had my own. Lighter too, the originals were overkill.
And the exhaust I built for the car:
ishiboo
Well-known member
One of the things I've learned welding in bad circumstances is you need clear vision
Pre-heating can make a TON of difference too. I remember my first welder at my parents house was a Handler 130. Had to weld in 10 degree weather on some thin square tube, with only a single 60W bulb for light at night. It was impossible to see. Put a 500W shop light and pre-heated the metal with a turbo heater and it was a night and day difference.
Even these days in my barn, I'll occasionally have to weld in the cold, my breath fogs the mask, and I end up making a mess.
Having comfortable accessibility to the weld is also important. If you are out of torch length, in a weird position, etc... it will all affect your weld quality unless you're used to it.
Thanks Mike!
Yep, I've used that 'rule of thumb' too, and know it's only good within a certain range. I guess I could have asked my question differently like this to be clearer: (yes, it's extreme, but for the sake of the question)
Let's say you were MIG welding a 3/16" thick bracket to various thicknesses of steel ranging from 3/16" to 3" just for the sake of my question. Aren't you at some point in the range of thicknesses going to 'level off' your heat settings because at some point the additional heat isn't needed? In other words, you don't really need to heat or melt the full 2" of metal? I know you answered already-----just trying to make my question clearer.
Thanks!
steel 35
Well-known member
If I care about the weld I turn all the lights out and use this one, yes I often use a cheater too; keep it clean!
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KMinAF
Well-known member
I like the swing arm light idea, does the mounting allow it to pivot/rotate?
ishiboo
Well-known member
Of course... that's why it is just a rule of thumb.
Your example, of course, you can get maximum strength fusing a 3/16 bracket to 3/16" thick of the 3" metal. So you don't need to weld the full 3 3/16". But, a 3" piece of steel is huge heat sink so it will require more input power single pass than 3/16 to 3/16.
Yes, I can illuminate the welding table from any angle and it also will swing over to the work table next to the wall. I don't know how much I'll use it over there. I just got it done and haven't even painted it yet I have already used it on the welding table though and it really works well.
I got the idea over on WW (http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?265211-Shop-Light-200mphbusa-s-version-slightly-modified) and really should give those guys credit!
The only problem I've found is that if I position the light too close to the work, the weld spatter will mar the plastic lens of the lamp. The object on the welding table is the last gimbal which is now installed between the lamp bracket and the arm and allows me to move the arm over and raise the lamp head out of harm's way and still maintain a parallel over-the-work position.
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nonhog
Well-known member
I am making one of those lamps. I have a few fixtures, the ones with the stands that I never seem to use. Repurpose time!
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll report back.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll report back.
Good luck! Be sure to post pictures of your version! BTW one cool man-cave you got there!
larry4406
Well-known member
I hope your going to fill it with water then provide over pressure with air vs filling entire tank with air. The later could be a bomb.