Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Pretty nice cart, but if your castors end up both pointing 'in' at some point (which they will occasionally) the effective width it's resting on will be pretty narrow/tippy. I built 'outrigger' pads on mine and used smaller wheels to let it sit lower to prevent that. (There's some bed frame in mine too!)
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coby65
Well-known member
mv213
Well-known member
I really like those gussets with the round holes--very racy!
shawnspeed
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- Joined
- Sep 11, 2009
- Messages
- 326
RXtacy
Well-known member
^What are they for?
crewchief888
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crewchief888
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DRRummel
Well-known member
192" of TIG beads on aluminum, not a whole lot of fun
A giant Jenga game set!
56rpm
Well-known member
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Is that an optical illusion, or does the cart not sit level because the casters are too small?
Duker
Well-known member
New gates.
2" powdercoated frames with stainless steel coach bolts holding on the grooved ply.
Nice job. That looks sharp.
TauntDevil
Well-known member
The casters are temporary while he builds the steering system as stated. So at the moment, it is sitting at an angle.
iamironman
Well-known member
Finished this last week. Waiting for powder coat shop to finish it, then go install it.
Sent using the power of electro-magnetism.
Sent using the power of electro-magnetism.
Fender1325
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- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 1,309
Brian thats bad ***! How'd you bend the main hand rail? I'd love to see some more pics during the build process.
*Edit* Just curious - what welding processes and machines do you use/have to handle your projects?
*Edit* Just curious - what welding processes and machines do you use/have to handle your projects?
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fourjeepin
Well-known member
Re: Home Depot Clearance Thread 2015
I made a tool to drive in fence posts from an old fence post, some rebar, and a scrap of plate. Do NOT copy this unless you grind the ridges off the rebar. Even with gloves, this thing ripped my hands to shreds.
Using it to drive in some old tennis court fence posts to build a new 5' chain link. I dig down two feet, then drive the post in another 2 feet, and plan to cut off the last foot. It is a great workout and the posts are incredibly sturdy even before adding any concrete.
I made a tool to drive in fence posts from an old fence post, some rebar, and a scrap of plate. Do NOT copy this unless you grind the ridges off the rebar. Even with gloves, this thing ripped my hands to shreds.
Using it to drive in some old tennis court fence posts to build a new 5' chain link. I dig down two feet, then drive the post in another 2 feet, and plan to cut off the last foot. It is a great workout and the posts are incredibly sturdy even before adding any concrete.
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DRRummel
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Mike.ASC
Well-known member
Nice work . What is your mechanism to prevent the bearings from sliding on the shafts & the bearings from coming out of the perches?
DRRummel
Well-known member
Thanks.
That’s a good question. Right now, I am going with a wing and a prayer. The bearings are pressed onto the shaft and into the 2 inch pipe. However, I would feel better if it had some kind of stop. The same reason I added the sleeve inside between the bearings.
Snap Ring:
I have seen a few designs. The one I like the best was one where a slot is cut on the shaft just outside the bearing and a snap ring was used. I think a precision slot is beyond my ability and would weaken the stock shaft. --- Actually, I just checked. The shaft necks down to a half inch. The groove would be about .87 inches. It would not be the weakest point.
Retaining Sleeve:
In the third picture in the upper left hand corner is a pile of cut parts. There is a 1 inch ring about 1/3 of an inch wide. I was going to put that outside the bearing and use that as a retaining ring between the bearing and bolt. However, it actually rubs on the control arm.
Beat it with a hammer:
I think I am going to use the simplest solution. The same solution Daze Cars uses. Just crimp / tap the ends of the 2 inch pipe over the edges of the bearing, creating a cage. See sample picture below.
Product for sale:
http://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/
http://dazecars.com/dazed/opentracker.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Musta...hes-/251350683460?hash=item3a85ab0f44&vxp=mtr
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Mike.ASC
Well-known member
One option would be to make/find a washer that would **** up to the shoulder of the cross shaft and weld a tube to it that just fits over the shaft and clearance the bottom half so it doesn't add any additional ride height and drill a hole in the top part and install a slightly longer bolt where your existing bolt is to hold it all in place .....
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
Nice work .
bmxdad
Well-known member
RK-REX
Member
You could also use Loctite retaining compound. It's not a mechanical retention, but that stuff takes a lot of heat to break the bond. Just throwing out ideas...
iamironman
Well-known member
Thanks.
1)set 3-1/2" pipe on rotisserie stands.
2) lay out risers using a pipe wrap and a little math to get riser height.
3)tack treads in using a jig that locates and holds them. Overlap about an inch. When all are there use an able gauge to compare entry and exit points. Redo or proceed if all is ok.
4) tack main pickets using various levels at various points 18 ways from Sunday. These go from one tread to the next.
5)brace those pickets.
6)pre bend enough handrail pipe (this one is 1-1/4"x .120" o.d. tube.)
to fit at least the 1st 3 pickets.
7)line up and tack bent part to 1st 3 pickets.
8)use special handrail bending tool#2 and proceed to step (9) -(1423)
9-1423)bend handrail wrapping it around and up simultaneously. Using hrt#2 as a fulcrum ans the rest of te stick of tube as a lever.
1424-1568)build landing.
1569) add remaining pickets
1570)add landing and rail
1570-3899)grind, soothes, clean.
3900)drop off stands trim center pole ti length, clean, load in trailer.
Mostly mig welded. Use either a Powcon 300sm or a Miller Passport Plus. Er70s6 wire and 75/25 unimix gas.
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jimgood
Well-known member
A lot came together on this project very well but today I made one really big mistake and discovered another that I made weeks ago.
This is supposed to be a rack to store 8 - 10 Rubbermaid plastic bins. One thing I'm really happy about is that I was able to control welding distortion pretty well. Considering I don't have a proper welding table, it came out very square. The Miller folding table in the pic is not perfectly flat. It's actually slightly convex shaped. I put the shelf frames on four small wood blocks and tried to distribute them evenly. That kept them all on the same plane.
This is one of the shelves ( 14 ga. 1" sq.). The idea is that this will hold two bins side by side stacked 2 high:
View media item 52080
Here's a closeup of one of the welds:
View media item 52081
Here it is primed. I did not weld the joints at the top and bottom. I figured the sides were good enough and I didn't want to have to grind them down on the top where I might put a sheet of something if I feel the need.
View media item 52082
The shelves are one thing but the assembly is way too big for the folding table. I put two 2" sq tubes on saw horses and leveled them with one another. That's the best I could do. Notice that the middle shelf is up against angle brackets and the assembly is oriented with the bottom on the right (more on that in a minute). The angle brackets were really meant to just locate the middle shelf a fixed distance from the bottom. Since I used them, I only tacked the middle shelf in place. The bottom and top shelves are joined on three sides to the verticals.
View media item 52083
Here it is standing up. Fabulous. Almost. In order to make it easier to weld, I rotated the assembly at some point so that the bottom was facing left. But I forgot that and welded the plates for the casters on the right (what should have been the top).
View media item 52084
So, now my shelf supports are above the middle shelf instead of below it. Friggen' brilliant!
View media item 52086
Here are the 3" casters. $16 at tractor supply. The are a bit clunky but they have really good parking brakes.
View media item 52085
The final insult came when I put one of the Rubbermaid bins on a shelf and found that I really didn't need to make the thing as deep as I did. I could have made it about 6" shallower.
This is supposed to be a rack to store 8 - 10 Rubbermaid plastic bins. One thing I'm really happy about is that I was able to control welding distortion pretty well. Considering I don't have a proper welding table, it came out very square. The Miller folding table in the pic is not perfectly flat. It's actually slightly convex shaped. I put the shelf frames on four small wood blocks and tried to distribute them evenly. That kept them all on the same plane.
This is one of the shelves ( 14 ga. 1" sq.). The idea is that this will hold two bins side by side stacked 2 high:
View media item 52080
Here's a closeup of one of the welds:
View media item 52081
Here it is primed. I did not weld the joints at the top and bottom. I figured the sides were good enough and I didn't want to have to grind them down on the top where I might put a sheet of something if I feel the need.
View media item 52082
The shelves are one thing but the assembly is way too big for the folding table. I put two 2" sq tubes on saw horses and leveled them with one another. That's the best I could do. Notice that the middle shelf is up against angle brackets and the assembly is oriented with the bottom on the right (more on that in a minute). The angle brackets were really meant to just locate the middle shelf a fixed distance from the bottom. Since I used them, I only tacked the middle shelf in place. The bottom and top shelves are joined on three sides to the verticals.
View media item 52083
Here it is standing up. Fabulous. Almost. In order to make it easier to weld, I rotated the assembly at some point so that the bottom was facing left. But I forgot that and welded the plates for the casters on the right (what should have been the top).
View media item 52084
So, now my shelf supports are above the middle shelf instead of below it. Friggen' brilliant!
View media item 52086
Here are the 3" casters. $16 at tractor supply. The are a bit clunky but they have really good parking brakes.
View media item 52085
The final insult came when I put one of the Rubbermaid bins on a shelf and found that I really didn't need to make the thing as deep as I did. I could have made it about 6" shallower.
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Robert Hall
Well-known member
Quite nice actually. While even the best project occasionally have a wart or two, they are mostly noticeable only by those who built it. Personally, I have made it a guideline must point out my mistakes as people are always happy to do that for me. If they don't see it it doesn't exist.A lot came together on this project very well but today I made one really big mistake and discovered another that I made weeks ago.
This is supposed to be a rack to store 8 - 10 Rubbermaid plastic bins. One thing I'm really happy about is that I was able to control welding distortion pretty well. Considering I don't have a proper welding table, it came out very square. The Miller folding table in the pic is not perfectly flat. It's actually slightly convex shaped. I put the shelf frames on four small wood blocks and tried to distribute them evenly. That kept them all on the same plane.
This is one of the shelves ( 14 ga. 1" sq.). The idea is that this will hold two bins side by side stacked 2 high:
View media item 52080
Here's a closeup of one of the welds:
View media item 52081
Here it is primed. I did not weld the joints at the top and bottom. I figured the sides were good enough and I didn't want to have to grind them down on the top where I might put a sheet of something if I feel the need.
View media item 52082
The shelves are one thing but the assembly is way too big for the folding table. I put two 2" sq tubes on saw horses and leveled them with one another. That's the best I could do. Notice that the middle shelf is up against angle brackets and the assembly is oriented with the bottom on the right (more on that in a minute). The angle brackets were really meant to just locate the middle shelf a fixed distance from the bottom. Since I used them, I only tacked the middle shelf in place. The bottom and top shelves are joined on three sides to the verticals.
View media item 52083
Here it is standing up. Fabulous. Almost. In order to make it easier to weld, I rotated the assembly at some point so that the bottom was facing left. But I forgot that and welded the plates for the casters on the right (what should have been the top).
View media item 52084
So, now my shelf supports are above the middle shelf instead of below it. Friggen' brilliant!
View media item 52086
Here are the 3" casters. $16 at tractor supply. The are a bit clunky but they have really good parking brakes.
View media item 52085
The final insult came when I put one of the Rubbermaid bins on a shelf and found that I really didn't need to make the thing as deep as I did. I could have made it about 6" shallower.
BD1
Well-known member
jimgood, everything ALMOST looks good. The picture with the table and frame clamped and ready is good EXCEPT for those five gas cans sitting right there. 
Sorry but it just doesn't appear to be safe. I'm just saying because of years of getting hot work permits prior to even starting a job.
Sorry but it just doesn't appear to be safe. I'm just saying because of years of getting hot work permits prior to even starting a job.
jimgood
Well-known member
I know. I'm my own worst critic and all. Thanks!
I knew someone would have something to say about that. Mea culpa.jimgood, everything ALMOST looks good. The picture with the table and frame clamped and ready is good EXCEPT for those five gas cans sitting right there.
Sorry but it just doesn't appear to be safe. I'm just saying because of years of getting hot work permits prior to even starting a job.
BD1
Well-known member
WE ALL DO IT !! Some however , have different photos.
Just want all of us to PLAY SAFE !!!!
With the casters it wasn't seting level until I built the steering system, which still needs some fine turning. The cart sets level with the front end installed, forgot to take pics of it. Gotta wait until Wednesday.
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welder59
Member
Here are some pictures of a roll bender I built recently. I needed some tubing rolled for a bike project and the only guy locally that I could find to do it wanted a 500-1000 piece order. I have dies that go from 3/4 - 2". The picture with the full circle is 1-1/4 .120 wall DOM. The half circle is 2" .120 wall DOM and the last tube shown rolled is 2" .188 wall.
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DRRummel
Well-known member
welder59,
I am impressed.
I am impressed.
