Show us your welding projects

[Briggs]

You need to start a thread for this.

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I did. I have more pics in my garage "showoff" thread. Thanks for the interest.

 

[Briggs]

Kart stand I made for my shifter.

 

[landi250r]

Couple of things I did...

double axis ATV engine stand. it started its life out as a engine stand. it is mounted on a lazy Susan so it can be turned 360 degrees.

 

[landi250r]

And re-fabbed a blade mount for the side by side. I also built a cart that mounts to the same mount for carrying wood, getting a deer out or what ever.

 

[Strouty]

That is a funny place for a deer to take a nap.

 

[Boost Creep]

finished up my stand. its ready to roll

 

[zmotorsports]

finished up my stand. its ready to roll

Very nice. Love it.

Mike.

 

[landi250r]

That is a funny place for a deer to take a nap.

That was one of two of my wife's bow kills last year...

 

[nonhog]

Wondering if my patch just warped or I didn't fit it well to begin with? The edges ended up slightly smaller than I hoped for, but while holding it in place seemed to fit well for/aft. Should I have tacked one each side before adding more in the lower areas or did I just not catch how badly it fit before welding. I get you can only guess at this point. Copper backing will have to be used and maybe lower heat a notch?

A skim coat of mud will no doubt happen but want the next side to come out better.

Thoughts?

 

[nonhog]

I had stopped tacking at this point to get an expert opinion.

Do I risk making a mess with the hammer and dolly or just mud over it and move on? Want to learn as I am showing my boy how (or how not) to do this.

click on pic, for best view!

 

[brawls43]

As a novice too, it kind of looks like the weld pulled the panel tight to the one side. So where it had been an even gap all around, pulling the panel tight on the one side just increased the gap on the other side. But that's just a novice guess.

 

[80z28s6]

Search the forum for a thread called welding in patch panels. A member called mpcc is quite an artist at this. Also lots of great info.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Wondering if my patch just warped or I didn't fit it well to begin with? The edges ended up slightly smaller than I hoped for, but while holding it in place seemed to fit well for/aft. Should I have tacked one each side before adding more in the lower areas or did I just not catch how badly it fit before welding. I get you can only guess at this point. Copper backing will have to be used and maybe lower heat a notch?

A skim coat of mud will no doubt happen but want the next side to come out better.

Thoughts?

Patch appears to be a bit too small for the opening. Yes, tacking it on all sides would have helped prevent the lifting and pulling as it shrinks.

I also see the dreaded blowthrough, meaning you've got too much heat going in. Trust me, it's a dance I'm still doing to avoid when I'm doing sheet metal. It's one reason I'm practicing TIG right now and will be doing some more coupons in an hour or so to learn how to use it right for the materials I'm working with.

 

[stinkity stoink]

Grind the welds down a little front and backside. After that try hammer on dolly on the welds ,it should stretch them out a bit and put the patch back to the way it was.
I am not an expert ,but have had some good success doing it this way. I don't know how the patch fit prior to welding.

 

[Zeke]

MIG pulls the patch towards the tack as it cools. Work opposite sides evenly. Yes, hit the welds with a hammer and dolly to flatten them and to push the patch outward a bit. You can always work the area planishing it which will stretch (and work harden) it. No, don't just smear filler on it until you've done your best metalwork.

 

[trentonmakes]

Don't mud over it!
You may be able to build up the welds in that area and eventually fill it. PITA, though with that gap.
Take your time and let it cool, spread your tacks out, as it looks like you have been.

Check wire speed and heat settings for blow through.

Patch panel should be tightest possible fit or as close to as you can get.

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[steel 35]

Jump right in there and tack the widest part!

 

[trentonmakes]

What is it your patching?

Tack a gas rod on one side to build up your weld[emoji106], unless of course it's a structural piece.

Could also use brass underneath to bridge the gap. Your weld won't stick to brass.

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[A**holes Garage]

A copper backing works for a back plate and fill too.
Eastwood sells some different shapes, sizes.

 

[Okie Pete]

Don't know if these count but here's a couple things I've done .

 

[ilovevocs]

Those are awesome.

 

[TauntDevil]

I agree, those are pretty darn rad. Could definitely see the second one being a shifter for an old 50s truck or rat rod. Super super cool!

 

[nonhog]

I also see the dreaded blowthrough, meaning you've got too much heat going in. Trust me, it's a dance I'm still doing to avoid when I'm doing sheet metal. It's one reason I'm practicing TIG right now and will be doing some more coupons in an hour or so to learn how to use it right for the materials I'm working with.

Yes maybe too hot? I try and find that sweet spot, doesn't always happen.

Lets see those coupons!

Don't mud over it!

As you can see its already got the fenders welded to the nose, bought it that way. It'll get mud but I'm striving for as little as possible after all the welding is complete. I never meant now (just to be clear)

What is it your patching?

The car in my avatar is a 66 Volvo Amazon. Me and my boy are adding custom turn signals to a one piece front end so I (we) are filling the old factory holes.

Thanks all for the ideas!

 

[Mike.ASC]

I've seen a lot of those era Volvo's turned into really nice looking machines , are you planning on doing the same ?

 

[nonhog]

I've seen a lot of those era Volvo's turned into really nice looking machines , are you planning on doing the same ?

Some mild mods, but mostly stock. added some pics on my shop build.
(keeping from cluttering the welding thread)

 

[trentonmakes]

I'm still checking out the chic in the last pic,.... What were you saying?
Lol

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[Mike.ASC]

Some mild mods, but mostly stock. added some pics on my shop build.
(keeping from cluttering the welding thread)

I must be starting to go blind ... I don't remember ever seeing your shop thread before. Nice shop in a beautiful part of the country. I have been out there twice in the last few years visiting a good friend in Everson . Those older Volvo wagons are a favorite of mine.

 

[vintagespeed1956]

Don't mud over it!...You may be able to build up the welds in that area and eventually fill it....

no, dont do that. a little mud isn't a horrible thing when done properly.

What is it your patching?..

looks like a turn signal/parking light hole to me.

edit:

and hammer your tacks.

 

[trentonmakes]

You'll never get it straight without filler! That said, you don't want to layer it on or fill gaps/holes with it.
Yeah, it may come out looking great, until it starts cracking and crumbling under that sweet paint job! Lol

New cars come rolling out the factory with filler on them.

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[ilovevocs]

Plastic fillers get a bad name buy hacks that use them outside of their intended perimeters.

Ive seen so many guys use duck tape to support it and spread filler to fill the holes. Or they just smear it over hole. The cheap filler they use contains talc and absorbs moisture and then it bubbles or just plain falls out.

Seems to me that most guys that try to flip cars for a quick buck take this approach, shiny paint job, half assed body work, undercoat everything to make it look new, getting running acceptably, sell.....

 

[trentonmakes]

Pinholes!
Cheap fillers leave them, I prefer rage xtreme from evercoat
Bit pricey, but imo, it's saving time and extra work!

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[Dragoonmc]

New cars come rolling out the factory with filler on them.

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I work in an auto factory and I can honestly say that this is not true. They will always get the panel smoothed back out

 

[Divcod]

I had stopped tacking at this point to get an expert opinion.

Do I risk making a mess with the hammer and dolly or just mud over it and move on? Want to learn as I am showing my boy how (or how not) to do this.

click on pic, for best view!

While not an expert, I would cut out the current repair panel an start over.
1. Panel looks like it is not a difficult fabrication
2. Make the new panel to fit as tight as possible. The smaller the gap the less heat introduced, i.e. Less shrinkage .
3. Spot weld the panel on opposing sides.
4. Grind the spot welds and if possible TIG weld to finish.
5. MIG welding is pretty common to finish but I find the working of a TIG weld to be easier.
6. Whatever method of welding is used it is best to work on the distortion as it occurs VS waiting until all of the welding is complete.

If you work at it the repair can be completed to a level that the distortion can be dealt with a minimum of filler. Our goal is to use less than 1/16" of filler and generally don't use any where near that amount.

Good luck

You might take a look at the MP&C Shop in the fabrication thread as there are some excellent example of the metal work. Answer to the question of how much filler to use is whatever works for you as it is always a balance of what is practical and what is possible - time / money

 

[PhantomEB]

All I saw was a nice rear bumper.....

 

[trentonmakes]

I work in an auto factory and I can honestly say that this is not true. They will always get the panel smoothed back out

I don't work in an auto factory, but I stayed at a holiday Inn last night. Lol

There's no way, in my mind, that they could get perfectly straight panels without some filler before spraying paint.

I've read that many times, maybe that was the case back when? Still would not be surprised if they still do it today.

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[vintagespeed1956]

You'll never get it straight without filler!..

sheetmetal will school ya that's for sure.

if the OP hammers his tacks and keeps the replacement panel fairly straight, there will be very little filler needed to straighten it out, he also has the benefit of the panel he's working on being curved which makes it alot easier to weld and keep straight.

 

[coma13]

You'll never get it straight without filler! That said, you don't want to layer it on or fill gaps/holes with it.
Yeah, it may come out looking great, until it starts cracking and crumbling under that sweet paint job! Lol

New cars come rolling out the factory with filler on them.

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Tons of metal shapers get their sheet metal paint ready with no filler. Heck there are some examples of it right on this board.

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[Dragoonmc]

I don't work in an auto factory, but I stayed at a holiday Inn last night. Lol

There's no way, in my mind, that they could get perfectly straight panels without some filler before spraying paint.

I've read that many times, maybe that was the case back when? Still would not be surprised if they still do it today.

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Heck back in the day they literally filled areas with lead to fill the panel seams. But now it's all thin enough it comes off the stamping die straight

 

[trentonmakes]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301327


My point was, used properly filler isn't a bad thing and when restoring older cars it's usually required.

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[MP&C]

Responses in blue

Patch appears to be a bit too small for the opening. Yes, tacking it on all sides would have helped prevent the lifting and pulling as it shrinks.

Actually the tacking on all sides of a patch that is too small for the opening does exactly what was shown, pulls it to the outside of the hole as the weld dot shrinks which pulls it down in a high crown area like that shown. The correct way to prevent this (besides the patch fitting a bit better) is to tack in the same direction and forget what you've heard about skipping around. Start the top seam from the inside (for example) and work the tacks toward the outside, aligning the panels as you go. Start the bottom seam and work it the same direction, aligning the panels as you go. Now if the patch is too short it results in a gap along the outside vertical seam, not the patch pulling downward.


I also see the dreaded blowthrough, meaning you've got too much heat going in. Trust me, it's a dance I'm still doing to avoid when I'm doing sheet metal. It's one reason I'm practicing TIG right now and will be doing some more coupons in an hour or so to learn how to use it right for the materials I'm working with.

Without seeing the back side of the welds, I'd say that you have a few real nice ones there, and a few that blew likely due to excessive gap in the panel. IMO, increase the wire feed slightly and leave the heat alone. If weld dots start to appear too large, control that with less weld duration. But full penetration welds, first and foremost.



Yes maybe too hot? I try and find that sweet spot, doesn't always happen.

Lets see those coupons!

Don't mud over it!
You may be able to build up the welds in that area and eventually fill it. PITA, though with that gap.
Take your time and let it cool, spread your tacks out, as it looks like you have been.

Check wire speed and heat settings for blow through.

Patch panel should be tightest possible fit or as close to as you can get.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

As you can see its already got the fenders welded to the nose, bought it that way. It'll get mud but I'm striving for as little as possible after all the welding is complete. I never meant now (just to be clear)


A little filler never hurt anyone, but you'd be surprised how a bit more attention to fit/trimming of the patch will help in limiting the filler needed..

What is it your patching?

The car in my avatar is a 66 Volvo Amazon. Me and my boy are adding custom turn signals to a one piece front end so I (we) are filling the old factory holes.

Thanks all for the ideas!

If you're shaving those light holes, then do the entire thing at once. Trim out the mounting slots, use a larger radius on the 4 corners for less distortion, form the patch to match the contour of the fender, and trim for no gaps. You've already seen what gaps and the patch pulling will do, now see what it does with a tighter fit... The results you have now are very much a lesson that your son (and anyone else reading along) can see how shrinking affects high crown panels.