Show us your welding projects

[TauntDevil]

I feel like with all the posts retaining to the same issue, would be good to have its own thread so when others have the same issue or a question about it, a thread is there to help them instead of randomly coming across this page with many posts to find the answer or learn something about it. Just me though. I think this has some amazing information about the issue.

 

[Duker]

I feel like with all the posts retaining to the same issue, would be good to have its own thread so when others have the same issue or a question about it, a thread is there to help them instead of randomly coming across this page with many posts to find the answer or learn something about it. Just me though. I think this has some amazing information about the issue.

MP&C's threads are already like a clinic. Just when I start to feel good about my sheet metal work I see a post that schools me on how much of a rookie I really am! I am hoping he starts a YouTube channel series one day.

That aside I think a dedicated thread to sheet metal would be great as some of the other threads have morphed into other areas.


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[MP&C]

Sheet metal thread....


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81325

 

[Duker]

Sheet metal thread....


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81325

That is a great thread. I thought he was implying more of a Q&A type thread but I could be have read that wrong.

It may be just me and my search capability but the issue with the project threads I have run into is that they are not easily searchable if your trying to find the solution to an issue.

Take this thread for example if you try and search for heat/bead questions you get so many off topic posts it takes awhile to narrow the list to possible solutions.

Again, I may have totally misread that so if I have my apologies for wasting the bandwidth and deterring the topic.

 

[nonhog]

I feel like with all the posts retaining to the same issue, would be good to have its own thread so when others have the same issue or a question about it, a thread is there to help them instead of randomly coming across this page with many posts to find the answer or learn something about it. Just me though. I think this has some amazing information about the issue.

I agree or I may use one of the many patch panel or sheet metal threads and add to it. Thanks everybody!

 

[Ipassgas]

My welding project is a decorative air intake cover.

I used mild steel, cleaned with a grinder (skipped the acetone).

I considered the mig like tig approach (ala ZTFab), but instead opted for the flux core like incontinent pigeon. This is the first thing I've welded since some horrific stick welding in a shop class in the early 90's.

It's not too pretty, but it'll do. Used a Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core with 0.030 on 1/8" bar stock.

 

[In4lo]

Steering spindle gussets for a Toyota Tacoma.

 

[MP&C]

That is a great thread. I thought he was implying more of a Q&A type thread but I could be have read that wrong.

It may be just me and my search capability but the issue with the project threads I have run into is that they are not easily searchable if your trying to find the solution to an issue.

Take this thread for example if you try and search for heat/bead questions you get so many off topic posts it takes awhile to narrow the list to possible solutions.

Again, I may have totally misread that so if I have my apologies for wasting the bandwidth and deterring the topic.

Quite a few of those details in the patch panel thread..


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534

 

[jimgood]

My welding project is a decorative air intake cover.

I used mild steel, cleaned with a grinder (skipped the acetone).

I considered the mig like tig approach (ala ZTFab), but instead opted for the flux core like incontinent pigeon. This is the first thing I've welded since some horrific stick welding in a shop class in the early 90's.

It's not too pretty, but it'll do. Used a Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core with 0.030 on 1/8" bar stock.

Wow. I've never had my flux core welds make BBs that big. Would love to know what caused that. Amps too high and wire speed too fast?

 

[aka Larry]

Wow. I've never had my flux core welds make BBs that big. Would love to know what caused that. Amps too high and wire speed too fast?

Most spatter is cause by excessive wire speed and stick-out in my experience.

 

[nine4gmc]

All I saw was a nice rear bumper.....

 

[Ipassgas]

The HF welder has "high" and "low" settings. I put it on high, per the guide taped to the welder. Wire feed speed was about "6" - whatever that actually means. Stick out was probably a bit too much, as I'm new at this.

And yes, I realize if I'm going to stick with it, I need a real welder. And 220 power in my garage to go with it.

 

[DRRummel]

The HF welder has "high" and "low" settings. I put it on high, per the guide taped to the welder. Wire feed speed was about "6" - whatever that actually means. Stick out was probably a bit too much, as I'm new at this.

And yes, I realize if I'm going to stick with it, I need a real welder. And 220 power in my garage to go with it.

Don't let the HATERS get you upset. The HF is a great welder to get started with. Maybe not a flexible as a more expensive unit. But a lot cheaper to get started with and see if you really want to continue welding. Keep praticing. If you decide to upgrade later, a 110 unit can be resold to another beginer or I kept mine for when I need to go to a 'friends' house that needs a repair. It is a lot easier to find 110V then 220v when mobile. Enjoy.

 

[mvrk10256]

I recently purchased an AHP AlphaTIG 200x to do some more serious welding. But I still keep that HF flux core around. For less than 100 bucks its great for tacking stuff, or going away from a 220V plug.

I would dial down the wire speed. My best welds are generally set up on High but with 3-5 wire speed. Make sure you practice the back and forth "stitching" motion as well.

 

[vintagespeed1956]

Most spatter is cause by excessive wire speed and stick-out in my experience.

wire speed is directly correlated to the speed of the one laying the welds.

edit:

and does anyone want to discuss the pros/cons of the "tack tack tack" technique demonstrated above?

 

[zmotorsports]

wire speed is directly correlated to the speed of the one laying the welds.

edit:

and does anyone want to discuss the pros/cons of the "tack tack tack" technique demonstrated above?

Just out of curiosity, are you talking about In4lo's picture? I don't believe that is the "tack, tack, tack" method but I could be wrong. It doesn't appear to be but can be confused by the inexperienced. Maybe In4lo can chime in and confirm or deny the method he used. If you are referring to a different picture can you please be specific as to which post #.

If you look at my welds on many of my posts the inexperienced keyboard experts all think they are done by the tack, tack, tack method as well but they are not.

Mike.

 

[vintagespeed1956]

Just out of curiosity, are you talking about In4lo's picture?...It doesn't appear to be but can be confused by the inexperienced...the inexperienced keyboard experts all think they are done by the tack, tack, tack...

well Mike, i didn't jab at you. sorry you took it that way. i was implying the pics above on THIS page.

and yes, i'm merely a keyboard kommando with un-intellectual views of teh interwebs.

the application didn't say anything about experience required!

 

[trentonmakes]

The HF welder has "high" and "low" settings. I put it on high, per the guide taped to the welder. Wire feed speed was about "6" - whatever that actually means. Stick out was probably a bit too much, as I'm new at this.

And yes, I realize if I'm going to stick with it, I need a real welder. And 220 power in my garage to go with it.

Practice on some scrap pieces, fiddle with the settings, well the hi low and wire speed.
You'll get there!

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[In4lo]

I used cursive "e's" whipped back into the puddle technique. No tack, tack, tacks here.

I'm open for all constructive criticism as well since I've only been welding with a gas shielded machine for 2 months.

 

[welder4956]

My welding project is a decorative air intake cover.

I used mild steel, cleaned with a grinder (skipped the acetone).

I considered the mig like tig approach (ala ZTFab), but instead opted for the flux core like incontinent pigeon. This is the first thing I've welded since some horrific stick welding in a shop class in the early 90's.

It's not too pretty, but it'll do. Used a Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core with 0.030 on 1/8" bar stock.

We do what we can with what we got. Not quite "mig like tig" but it should get the job done.

Not hard to tell it was welded with gasless flux core wire. Those wires have 1.5 to 2% aluminum content to provide shielding oxygen removal. The aluminum leaves all that white soot and the white cloud of smoke around the weld. Try not to breath that stuff.

 

[Boost Creep]

recently i've decided my golf cart needs a trailer hitch. rather than buy one i decided i should make one which naturally leads to a whole custom rear tube bumper with shackles and the hitch. heres where i'm up to so far.

2" hitch with the mounting brackets

where that bolts to the frame

and my shackle mounts.

and now i can start running tubes

 

[Muggzy]

recently i've decided my golf cart needs a trailer hitch. rather than buy one i decided i should make one which naturally leads to a whole custom rear tube bumper with shackles and the hitch. heres where i'm up to so far.

2" hitch with the mounting brackets

where that bolts to the frame

and my shackle mounts.

and now i can start running tubes

Let's see more of the golf cart too [emoji3]

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[zmotorsports]

well Mike, i didn't jab at you. sorry you took it that way. i was implying the pics above on THIS page.

and yes, i'm merely a keyboard kommando with un-intellectual views of teh interwebs.

the application didn't say anything about experience required!

No problem, I didn't take it personal. I am sorry if you took it that way. I was not 100% certain I was even talking about the same picture that you were, which is why I asked. I have been on several welding sites where this topic is extremely heated. I actually created a youtube video where I gave my best attempt to explain the process and technique used along with some demonstration.

I am only trying to help inform people on the technique vs. some people who make nasty comments and then go away and post something on another forum and start the heated debate all over yet are not open to discuss it or learn it. I was not referring to you when I made the comment about the "keyboard experts" in particular, obviously you seem to be a little more open minded than what I have experienced on other sites. Many of them have NO experience yet are NOT willing to concede that there is any other technique other than what they have read in books or on the internet.

Again, I an not saying you in particular and sorry you took it that way. I get a little passionate about it and I appologize if I gave the impression of being upset. My goal is to help teach about it rather then only criticizing.

I used cursive "e's" whipped back into the puddle technique. No tack, tack, tacks here.

I'm open for all constructive criticism as well since I've only been welding with a gas shielded machine for 2 months.

This is what it looked like to me but again, I was not completely certain so thank you for chiming back in on the process used. That is the same technique that I use to achieve a similar end product.

Mike.

 

[wbrian63]

I used cursive "e's" whipped back into the puddle technique. No tack, tack, tacks here.

I'm open for all constructive criticism as well since I've only been welding with a gas shielded machine for 2 months.

I'm certainly no expert, and your welds look nice.

Only suggestion would be to tighten up the diameter of the "e" so that the layers of the weld are closer together. May need to slow the wire speed down somewhat to prevent excessive build-up. You need penetration, and that is done with a balance of heat setting, wire speed and progression (the rate at which you move along the joint being welded).

Too much heat and too little wire = no weld at all - I do this all the time when I turn the wire speed down to nil to purge the line before I start welding, then forget to turn the wire speed back up.

Too much heat and barely enough wire = erosion at the edges of the welds - I don't see that with yours.

Too little heat and the weld just sits on top of the base metal - don't see that either.

Right amount of heat and too little wire, or too much progression leaves a concave weld section. I've always been under the impression that a weld placed between two pieces at right-angles to one another should be slightly convex in cross-section. Your work looks nearly flat.

I think if you tighten up your e's a bit everything will be just perfect.

That being said - I'm just a novice, but nothing I've welded has failed. Some of what I've welded I'm proud to show - some of what I've welded is shameful...

 

[bmxdad]

.... Too much heat and too little wire = no weld at all - I do this all the time when I turn the wire speed down to nil to purge the line before I start welding, then forget to turn the wire speed back up.

Too much heat and barely enough wire = erosion at the edges of the welds - I don't see that with yours.

Too little heat and the weld just sits on top of the base metal - don't see that either.

Right amount of heat and too little wire, or too much progression leaves a concave weld section. I've always been under the impression that a weld placed between two pieces at right-angles to one another should be slightly convex in cross-section.

That is good information ....

 

[MoonRise]

Steering spindle gussets for a Toyota Tacoma.

Looks like you had a pretty decent rhythm to the weld there.

Now to be rather picky and critical ...

At the start/end of the gusset plate you have the weld start/stop right there.

That means you have a material discontinuity of the 'corner' of the gusset plate and also a material discontinuity of the weld bead start/stop.

Discontinuities are not good from a material 'strength' standpoint (very critical for fatigue failure especially).

Whenever possible, 'wrap' the corners so you don't have a weld start/stop right there on the corner/edge.

Also, when posting a picture of a weld, clean the weld bead up with a wire wheel/brush.

 

[In4lo]

I'm certainly no expert, and your welds look nice.



Only suggestion would be to tighten up the diameter of the "e" so that the layers of the weld are closer together. May need to slow the wire speed down somewhat to prevent excessive build-up. You need penetration, and that is done with a balance of heat setting, wire speed and progression (the rate at which you move along the joint being welded).



Too much heat and too little wire = no weld at all - I do this all the time when I turn the wire speed down to nil to purge the line before I start welding, then forget to turn the wire speed back up.



Too much heat and barely enough wire = erosion at the edges of the welds - I don't see that with yours.



Too little heat and the weld just sits on top of the base metal - don't see that either.



Right amount of heat and too little wire, or too much progression leaves a concave weld section. I've always been under the impression that a weld placed between two pieces at right-angles to one another should be slightly convex in cross-section. Your work looks nearly flat.



I think if you tighten up your e's a bit everything will be just perfect.



That being said - I'm just a novice, but nothing I've welded has failed. Some of what I've welded I'm proud to show - some of what I've welded is shameful...

Good info! I was looking at some other welds I did last night and was thinking I ought to tighten up a bit and this confirms that.

Looks like you had a pretty decent rhythm to the weld there.



Now to be rather picky and critical ...



At the start/end of the gusset plate you have the weld start/stop right there.



That means you have a material discontinuity of the 'corner' of the gusset plate and also a material discontinuity of the weld bead start/stop.



Discontinuities are not good from a material 'strength' standpoint (very critical for fatigue failure especially).



Whenever possible, 'wrap' the corners so you don't have a weld start/stop right there on the corner/edge.



Also, when posting a picture of a weld, clean the weld bead up with a wire wheel/brush.

I knew better than to leave the ends open :anon: Thanks for the input!

 

[steel 35]

Steering spindle gussets for a Toyota Tacoma.

You appear to have a good hand and need to jump at the chance to use a tig.

 

[wbrian63]

Saw this on youtube - I think old film like this is cool. Note the salesmen welding in rolled up shirtsleeves and a tie!

 

[vintagespeed1956]

....and my shackle mounts...

i'm sure hoping that shackle mount is more than just an 1/8" piece of angle under a bolt?

 

[In4lo]

You appear to have a good hand and need to jump at the chance to use a tig.

Thanks, definitely want to move up to a TIG machine but would like to gain more experience with MIG first.

 

[iamironman]

I'm just a tad excited about this job.

These are stands for a semi hemispheric video screens for an immersive interactive installation, spnsored by NASA and JPL, for the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum.

Yes I admit I am like totally geeking out.

I mean some of my work will be in the same building as The Columbia, and the Bell X1.

Mind=blown.








Sent using the power of electro-magnetism.

 

[falconero]

Awesome ^


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[Bob Heine]

iamironman, congratulations on being given the job and it really does look awesome!

 

[bluebolt]

iamronman. you better keep us updated! Or we will hunt you down and pelt you with welding slag chips!

Nice work and REAL jealous!

 

[TauntDevil]

Got the idea to make a wagon style front thing.... -_- 6:20am...
A wagon front tuning setup for my car so it is easier to move it and since I have rocks on the side of my house, I think this will work best when moving the cars since they are put together and taken back apart so often. Also another thing to practice welding though still looking like ****. No improvement :/

Sorry for the blurry, cruddy phone photo.

Trying to steady my hand as I am shaky when welding even when leaning on something.
Also trying to figure out a good amperage/speed. As taught, begin when both material is melting (or melting together if tight) but seems I have to go slow but is also too much heat somehow because if I go faster, doesnt melt fast enough...fjasifje;ilfje idk. Ranting.

Anyhow, these will bolt to the front crossmember where the FLCA's go and will be welded to tubing going down and holding the errr.. spindles to the wheels. Then build off that for the steering. Hoping it works. Most likely wont but meh. Something to do. Using scrap metal.

 

[In4lo]

Getting my Rogue Fab tube bender put together the past couple nights.



Fly couldn't say no to the bright blue light.

 

[Boost Creep]

Let's see more of the golf cart too [emoji3]

here ya go

and i went out and tinkered on my bumper for it some more today. current progress

 

[iamironman]

iamronman. you better keep us updated! Or we will hunt you down and pelt you with welding slag chips!

Nice work and REAL jealous!

Thanks, I will.

Here's a short promo produced by the hi tech video outfit (www.elumenati.com) that I'm sub contracting for, they do some really cool stuff.

The promo is for The Science Panorama at the Nature Research Center at the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences in Raleigh, NC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=20&v=xAP8OZb7Fi4

The part they contracted with me for is the kiosk that houses the touch screen control, you can see it in a few shots.

One of their most visible projects was an internally projected, suspended, globe made for Cirque du Soleil that was used at the opening ceremonies of the Beijing Olympics.

 

[Carves]

Nothing too ambitious ... a basic, mobile base for filing cabinets and shelving.