You aren't the same "dr pepper" that built 10 pennies, then never finished it, are you?
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
You aren't the same "dr pepper" that built 10 pennies, then never finished it, are you?
Dr. Pepper
Well-known member
That'd be me lol.
I still have it. It's sitting at my aunts rusting away while my house is being built.
TerryH
Well-known member
Dr. Pepper.....the wagon is lusciously over done. 
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
I finished my number stamp press just in time for Christmas. I took it to Tennessee to my Dad and we only had to make a very minor adjustment to get it pressing the numbers the same depth from one side to another.
I ended up tack welding each number stamp in place, one at a time instead of clamping all of them at once with a long piece of flat bar on each side to keep them straight, then I finished welded all of them. It was more important that I keep the number stamps at the same height instead of being absolutely perfectly straight.
When I tried to clamp all of them at once it would throw the height off and I never could get it right that way. I ended up getting them all within the same height to about .004, barely noticeable in hardwood.
I ended up buying the pneumatic/hydraulic 12 ton jack for it at harbor freight. It seemed to work good except for the latch that holds the air valve open. It nearly caused me to crash the number stamps into the bottom part of the press which is steel, that wouldn't have been good. I removed it right after that near miss.
I ended up tack welding each number stamp in place, one at a time instead of clamping all of them at once with a long piece of flat bar on each side to keep them straight, then I finished welded all of them. It was more important that I keep the number stamps at the same height instead of being absolutely perfectly straight.
When I tried to clamp all of them at once it would throw the height off and I never could get it right that way. I ended up getting them all within the same height to about .004, barely noticeable in hardwood.
I ended up buying the pneumatic/hydraulic 12 ton jack for it at harbor freight. It seemed to work good except for the latch that holds the air valve open. It nearly caused me to crash the number stamps into the bottom part of the press which is steel, that wouldn't have been good. I removed it right after that near miss.
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That'd be me lol.
I still have it. It's sitting at my aunts rusting away while my house is being built.
what a **** ! lol! your build thread popped up on s10f people be askin' bout it. and then i seen this.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Here's my Brush Grapple that I built a couple of years ago. These are the SINGLE most handy implement you can have for a tractor.
It will pick up everything from a one foot long piece of 2x4 too a complete tree. To purchase one is $1200-$1800 including hydraulics. I ended up with about $650 in this. It did take about 40 hours of my time to cut, machine, weld and paint.
I'm not the best welder, but I'm learning....
It will pick up everything from a one foot long piece of 2x4 too a complete tree. To purchase one is $1200-$1800 including hydraulics. I ended up with about $650 in this. It did take about 40 hours of my time to cut, machine, weld and paint.
I'm not the best welder, but I'm learning....
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![20151214_205752[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/372/372521-1fcfcefdd1e9666b5eb8acd2a1d33725.jpg)
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
That's a great looking grapple , well done.
Fender1325
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 1,309
Here's my Brush Grapple that I built a couple of years ago. These are the SINGLE most handy implement you can have for a tractor.
It will pick up everything from a one foot long piece of 2x4 too a complete tree. To purchase one is $1200-$1800 including hydraulics. I ended up with about $650 in this. It did take about 40 hours of my time to cut, machine, weld and paint.
I'm not the best welder, but I'm learning....
Thats pretty dang impressive. Tell me more about the materials and tools used
pepi
Well-known member
Just curious, why did you not just take it to a muffler shop and have that done. To me JB goop not going to hold up. Repair it once and live on, and I think welding would be the best fix for that. jmo ..
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The grapple is mainly comprised of 3/8" x 2" or 3" plate along with 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall tube and some various other scrap steel I had lying around. I did pay $65 to have the Kubota logo water jet cut into the front plate - my artwork (including the 3/8" plate it's made from) The rest is a combination of DOM tube, bolts and such.
I used a 9" horizontal band saw, mill drill, lathe, plasma cutter, grinders and various hand tools and clamps to fab everything. Now that I have my CNC mill, things would go much faster, especially having built one already. Oh, welder is a MM 210.
Grapples are truly the single best addition to a tractor or skid steer one can make. Those that don't own one do not realize their inherent value until they own one.
I tried to make this as light as possible without compromising strength. I've abused the living **** out of this and have not seen any signs of weakness yet.
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ipdaley
Active member
That would never last. Too much expansion/contraction and heat.
Whatchu talkin' bout Ipdaley? The grapple looks plenty strong enough for that Kubota. Must be talking about the JB welded muffler hanger a few posts back?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
bmxdad
Well-known member
Get a face mask, and breath filtered clean air. Used one when I was grinding Beryllium bushings ... nasty stuff. Face masks were good, and the air is cool, and over pressurizes the mask so you don't get all sweaty.
Something to try out anyway.
RXtacy
Well-known member
My bet is his issue is having a pacemaker.
Got anymore pictures as you did it? My walls are plywood and behind that are 2x6's. I'm thinking I could run the base off the floor using plastic or wood shims on the concrete and bolt the 2x2 tubing to the wall. Just making sure I hit the 2x6's!!!
I need to do this with my stuff. I have a bunch of square tubing, cromoly round tubing, dom, steel round tubing, angle iron, and so on....
bmxdad
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have Medtronic pacemaker. Mine does not have defib. Below is the their advice. New models are even MRI save the ultimate magnetic field ???? I do wear an aluminum foil hat ...
Q: What if I may need to use a welder?
A: It is recommended you avoid using welding currents above 160 amps. Follow the safety precautions below to minimize the risk of interfering with your heart device while welding with currents under 160 amps.
Welding Safety Precautions
Limit welding to currents less than 160 amps
Work in a dry area with dry gloves and shoes
Maintain a 2-foot (60 centimeter) distance between the welding arc and heart device
Keep the welding cables close together and as far away as possible from your heart device. Place the welding unit approximately 5 feet from the work area.
Connect the ground clamp to the metal as close to the point of welding as possible. Arrange the work so the handle and rod will not contact the metal being welded if they are accidentally dropped.
Wait several seconds between attempts when having difficulty starting a weld
Work in an area that offers firm footing and plenty of room for movement
Work with an informed person who understands these suggestions
Immediately stop welding and step away from the area if you start feeling lightheaded, dizzy, or you believe your implantable defibrillator has delivered a shock
Since welding equipment may temporarily affect the normal operation of your heart device, any decision you make to use this equipment should be made in consultation with your heart doctor. Your doctor can advise you as to the degree of risk these responses pose for your medical condition.
Aprons or vests will not effectively shield your pacemaker or implantable defibrillator from the electromagnetic energy generated by welding equipment.
I have Medtronic pacemaker. Mine does not have defib. Below is the their advice. New models are even MRI save the ultimate magnetic field ???? I do wear an aluminum foil hat ...
Q: What if I may need to use a welder?
A: It is recommended you avoid using welding currents above 160 amps. Follow the safety precautions below to minimize the risk of interfering with your heart device while welding with currents under 160 amps.
Welding Safety Precautions
Limit welding to currents less than 160 amps
Work in a dry area with dry gloves and shoes
Maintain a 2-foot (60 centimeter) distance between the welding arc and heart device
Keep the welding cables close together and as far away as possible from your heart device. Place the welding unit approximately 5 feet from the work area.
Connect the ground clamp to the metal as close to the point of welding as possible. Arrange the work so the handle and rod will not contact the metal being welded if they are accidentally dropped.
Wait several seconds between attempts when having difficulty starting a weld
Work in an area that offers firm footing and plenty of room for movement
Work with an informed person who understands these suggestions
Immediately stop welding and step away from the area if you start feeling lightheaded, dizzy, or you believe your implantable defibrillator has delivered a shock
Since welding equipment may temporarily affect the normal operation of your heart device, any decision you make to use this equipment should be made in consultation with your heart doctor. Your doctor can advise you as to the degree of risk these responses pose for your medical condition.
Aprons or vests will not effectively shield your pacemaker or implantable defibrillator from the electromagnetic energy generated by welding equipment.
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jimgood
Well-known member
There are some more details starting in this post: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286260&page=7
You should be fine with the 2 x 6s. I'd use lag screws and make sure you get them centered on the studs. And I'd use one at the top and one in the middle to be sure.
I didn't describe my process all that well so this is what I did (there's more than one way to skin a cat though).
Put the posts up first. Get them plumb. Then use a level and mark them where you want your beams (supports). Then take them down and drill them for the bolt holes. Make sure you keep track of which is left and right.
Make two templates. Here's a diagram for reference:
View media item 56107
The first template is just a piece of 2 x 2 with holes drilled in each side. This is used to consistently position the flat bars on each side of the beams (supports). I did this on the drill press so that the holes are square to the tube. I even used a small square between the tube and drill bit to be absolutely sure I had 90 degrees in 2 axes. I used a 7/16" drill bit. If you want the supports to be able to fold into the upright position, you have to make a mark on perpendicular side exactly 45 degrees from the holes. But I found that I could not get anything precise enough to make it work on all the supports.
The second template is the drilling template for the posts. Take two pieces of flat bar 2" x 5 3/4" and drill them in the center about 3/4" from one end. Slide a bolt through these and your first template so that one is on each side of the template. Then take another piece of 2 x 2 with the end trued up to 90 degrees and slide it between the two flat bars. Make sure it's 90 degrees to the first template. Position the flat bars at 45 degrees to both then tack weld them onto the second template. You'll use this as a drilling guide for the posts by putting the top edge of the tube against the marks on your post, clamp it, then drill through the holes you already have in the flat bars on each side of the post.
I cut all the beams and squared them up. Then cut all the flat bar pieces 5 3/4" long and drilled them centered and 3/4" from one end. Make sure you radius the ends because the corners will extend past the back of the post. I used 1/8" flat bar but the thickness doesn't matter, though I certainly wouldn't go any thinner.
I used the first template to position the flat bars on the beams for welding. I just tacked them in place first. There's going to be a corner of the flat bar that protrudes at the bottom of the beam. After they're tacked, I cut off the corners so that they're flush with the bottom of the beam then I fully welded them on the bottom and along the 45.
Started to fab this up today. It's a bracket for the pumper operators compartment on the fire engine. I'll leave it at that until it's finished. It's going to work tomorrow for mock up. If it's good, I'll make a second one for the other engine and finish welding this one up.
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demolitionman
Well-known member
You guys are all badasses with fab'n. I was proud of myself for fixing the front of a dumpster this morning LOL!
Well it's not a welding project per se. However, what I will make from this will become a welding project.
I needed a shrinker/stretcher to make some parts for my 1967 Mustang Fastback project so I bought this Lancaster (made in America) shrinker/stretcher. I needed a way to mount it to my bench.
The shrinker/stretcher has two 3/8-16 bolt holes in the bottom so I made a plate that would bolt to the bottom of the shrinker/stretcher and then mount to my StrongHand bench.
These are all the parts that make it work.
Here it is mounted to the bench.
Britt
I needed a shrinker/stretcher to make some parts for my 1967 Mustang Fastback project so I bought this Lancaster (made in America) shrinker/stretcher. I needed a way to mount it to my bench.
The shrinker/stretcher has two 3/8-16 bolt holes in the bottom so I made a plate that would bolt to the bottom of the shrinker/stretcher and then mount to my StrongHand bench.
These are all the parts that make it work.
Here it is mounted to the bench.
Britt
maverick3316
Well-known member
Got crazy with the cut off wheel on my 70 Nova. I cut out the original taillights, and am grafting 69 Camaro taillights onto the Nova.
Also found a rotted bottom of my door, so I cut that out, and built a new piece. I got a little crazy with the pie cuts....
Also found a rotted bottom of my door, so I cut that out, and built a new piece. I got a little crazy with the pie cuts....
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RivennHewn
Well-known member
Maverick, maybe you should borrow Britt's shrinker/stretcher
maverick3316
Well-known member
Lol, I have a shrinker stretcher, but its buried in my other shop until I get my home shop built. Figured I would try old school pie cutting. Just had to weld more than I wanted to.
Welcome to GJ, there are some guys (and girls) here with some serious talents.
Started to fab this up today. It's a bracket for the pumper operators compartment on the fire engine. I'll leave it at that until it's finished. It's going to work tomorrow for mock up. If it's good, I'll make a second one for the other engine and finish welding this one up.
Well mock up didn't work so it couldn't be used for dual purpose. The idea went back to the original purpose to mount a rubber mallet.
FYI, somestimes a rubber mallet is used to tighten/loosen an aluminum hydrant connection rather than a regular hammer.
demolitionman
Well-known member
Got done trucking; and with the last two hours of the day welded up a new container roller that had been completely ripped off and bent under by one of our " hoe operators". I don't do much fab or welding so I was happy with the result. Around this place the only way to get stuff done is do it yourself, whether your good or not at it! Using a Lincoln 220 Wire feed welder and a Hypertherm Plasma.
hmmm; can't seem to get pics to work....
hmmm; can't seem to get pics to work....
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paramud
Well-known member
vintagespeed1956
Well-known member
...Here's a pic of it flipped over. You can see how it all works.
i love 3 links. but the way you have that steering setup, when you put anything heavy in that wagon and actually compress the suspension it's going to turn a 360 and never pull straight. and if there is ever any articulation your steering will snap off so dont let your buddies ride in it.
you'll need center frame-mounted counter-levered steering at the central link mounts to do it right. or go full hydraulic steer.
edit: sorry, didn't realize this was finished and coated & shiny already.
it's cool looking tho.
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Finally posting some pics of my work table I built last fall. Nothing fancy, I'm just a weekend DIY'er. 4'x4' was about all the area I wanted to give up considering the projects I build. When I want to move it, I raise one end at a time with a floor jack and rotate the wheels down into position. Main Vice pivots up under for storage, but I find myself using the Versa Vice more often. Can hold something at just about any position.
Table
5" Vice Extended
5" Vice Stowed
Receivers with adjustable vice mount installed
Adjustable Mount rotated
Table
5" Vice Extended
5" Vice Stowed
Receivers with adjustable vice mount installed
Adjustable Mount rotated
maverick3316
Well-known member
Adjustable Mount rotated
[/QUOTE]
Ill have to get pics of my fab table, I did the receiver thing, but I really like the versa vice mounted on a pivot. That is one of the best vices I have ever had. I have considered buying another one.
Ill have to get pics of my fab table, I did the receiver thing, but I really like the versa vice mounted on a pivot. That is one of the best vices I have ever had. I have considered buying another one.
Muggzy
Well-known member
My picture links are busted. Can you repost? I'd really like to see your work.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Muggzy
Well-known member
Finally posting some pics of my work table I built last fall. Nothing fancy, I'm just a weekend DIY'er. 4'x4' was about all the area I wanted to give up considering the projects I build. When I want to move it, I raise one end at a time with a floor jack and rotate the wheels down into position. Main Vice pivots up under for storage, but I find myself using the Versa Vice more often. Can hold something at just about any position.
Table
I really like some of the features you've built into this table. Particularly the drop down vise. I'm gonna have to steal a few of them.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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sqznby
Well-known member
I built (overbuilt lol) this wagon for my cousins boy. He supplied the cash and parts, I did the all the fab and powder coated it all. I made all the hubs and steering linkage to make the quad steer work. It has rod ends on all the links, roller bearings on the hubs, and bronze bearings I machined to fit in pieces of tube on all the pivot points. I filled all the holes in the tub and made the rail sides that are welded on then fit aluminum panels with dimple holes in. Pretty bad machine, but boy is it heavy.
I had to bump this. That looks amazing.
Awesome job
I have to ask "Why?" It was only three pages ago!
BlueBomber
Well-known member
Awesomeness needs no reason. That wagon IS awesome.