Show your new tool arrivals

[ZRX61]

Nice little haul today. All waiting on me when I got home. First up it’s a SP Tools 13500 pulley holding tool for Toyota. Bought this to hold the pulley on the Camry so the bolts don’t come loose again. Then a set of Capri metric low profile impact sockets 1/2 drive. I got these because they are handy but also because I feel the stubby 19 will help with the belt tensioner and give me more access to work with when putting the belt on as it was a pain last time. The 18mm wrench I got just to have as I don’t have many 18mm anything lol. And the Escape will need some suspension work soon so I will need that and I always like to have an extra and I only found one at the house that I had except a ratchet wrench so I picked up an extra one to have plus I’ve wanted to try Capri wrenches. Then a 8 triple square for when I work on the Beetle this summer hopefully. Hopefully it will be up and running by then. You need the 8 triple square to take the CV axles off. And mine need to be at minimum rebooted but I’m probably going to replace them. I’ve had amazing luck with Capri bit sockets so buying this one gave no second thought. Very well made.

Next specialty tool I’m purchasing will be a ball joint press. I mainly need it for my Escape but will do good for work too. If anyone has any brand recommendations for that let me know. Not sure what to look for.

If you buy the Capri socket sets I'd advise you to check the sizes. I bought the Torx set a while back & recently discovered it had two T60's instead of a T60 & a TP60. Sent an email, they asked me for a pic & then set the missing socket right away.
So now I have a spare T60.

 

[mikeinri]

The guy who put in the sink for the kitchen in my house was an absolute hack - multiple unnecessary diameters of pipe, strange routing and the p-trap was installed backwards. I put in a new sink with a single drain, and I knew something looked wrong, but I couldn't tell what the hell I was looking at. I kept trying different pieces until finally ran into a Lowes employee who was a retired 40-year plumber. He looked at the pix I'd taken for reference, laughed a little and said "You live in [XYZ neighborhood], don't you?" I guess my jaw dropped, and he said "We've seen a lot of folks with this guy's work. I have no idea who he is, but he ain't a plumber!" and then proceeded to show me what I needed to do to correct his idiocy/incompetence.

This wouldn't happen to be in RI by any chance???

Nope, otherwise you'd have 1,000 elbows and no straight pieces longer than 2 feet... My grandmother (RIP) hired a guy like yours to turn her house into a duplex back in the 70s. What a mess.

Mike

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Went to Auto Zone during lunch again. Wanted to get some hex bits for the house. I have odds and ins but wanted a full metric set. Most of mine at the house are SAE. I really like Duralast stuff to be honest. I have more that will be waiting on me when I get home because I ordered it Sunday on Auto Zone website. So will be posting that tonight. And I needed an 18mm for my third 3/8 deep metric rail at the house lol. I have enough but you got to fill in the gaps lol. The guy at Auto Zone is like don’t you come here like every week and I’m like yeah haha. We get discounts if we wear our work uniforms at the one by my work. Some guys were laughing at me on another forum because I said I liked Duralast but I don’t care what they say they have nice stuff. Never have broken one but I know they will warranty it because they told me they will. I need the hex keys for my sway bar end links and wanted to make sure I had a 5mm in 3/8 for that. I couldn’t locate one at the house and they start their individuals at 6 in store so I figured I’d get the whole set. It’s best to have the set anyway.

 

[Outahere]

A Hitachi/Hikoki variable speed die grinder, purchased at Amazon. Collet is 1/4", overall length is 16", motor is 6.7A. Manufactured in Malaysia. It runs smoothest at 29,000rpm. At the lowest speed of 7000rpm I can feel a slight amount of "cogging". The 7000-8000rpm range will be ideal for use with my 3" wire wheels.

• POWERFUL: Capable 6.7 amp motor powers through even the toughest applications
• ACCEPTS: 1 Inch max wheel diameter accessories
• SPEED DIAL: Variable speed dial allows the user to adjust the speed for the application from 7,000 to 29,000 RPM
• START: Electronic soft start allows for a controlled start up
• GRIP: Small grip perimeter provides comfortable control and easy maneuverability. Locking slide switch prevents fatigue during extended operation
• MOTOR: Electronic feedback circuitry provides consistent power to maintain RPM under load
• SIDE HANDLE: Adjustable side handle provides a comfortable and secure grip
• APPLICATION: Ideal for finishing dies, press work, die casting and molding and grinding of machine parts
• WARRANTY: Covered by Metabo HPT's 1-year Tool Warranty

 

[Mr. Roboto]

A wrench extender and a cheap “XL” 12mm wrench, which isn’t really even that much longer than my normal 12mm wrench. Hoping this makes replacing the oil filter adapter seals easier on a Jeep 4.0L, as the bolt is tricky to get to, and is held in place with red loctite from the factory.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

Been overhauling my screwdriver collections. The last of the items came today, and I'll be fondling them later.

 

[M635_Guy]

So my SK set arrived today:



The rail is pretty darn nice.

The sockets aren't bad at all. They have decent heft, are well-finished, and seem to have tighter tolerance than my Tekton 3/8" (I only examined the 10mm so far) - The MiUSA SK and Icon measured about 0.11mm over 10mm, where the new SK was 0.12 and the Tekton was 0.13. I wouldn't bet my life on those measurements, but I grabbed a well-used 10mm bolt and the subjective feel pretty much went in that order - I'd give the edge for tight-on-the-fastener to MiUSA SK over Icon by a tiny hair. The new SK felt pretty good. The Tekton felt a tiny bit sloppy - clearly the last among the group, though I've used that socket quite a bit with zero complaints or issues.

As far as a height comparison vs. some of my other sets:

That measures out to 30.0mm for the Tekton, 28.1mm for the New SK, 26.4mm for MiUSA SK, and 23.0mm for Icon.

I have to say I like how big and clear the size markings are on the new SK set.

Icon and MiUSA SK both have a shallow broach (apologies if that's the wrong term - I'm referring to the depth of the chamber for the fastener), where the Tekton and new SK are deeper - maybe as much as 2X (I'll measure at some point).

Interestingly, note that both of the SK sockets have some sort of secondary shaping going on at the bottom of the chamber. The new SK also has the most-shaped sidewalls - will be interesting to see if that's useful or not.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Here is what was waiting on me when I got home. This and tons of license plates lol. I loved the Duralast ratchet I bought last week so I decided to get two more a 1/4 fixed head and flex head. And a good set of needle nose pliers. I’ve had good luck with all their tools both at work and home so I’m happy I got these. Anybody looking for good quality ratchets don’t overlook Duralast I’m very happy with mine. Very smooth.

 

[four.cycle]

@M635_Guy -

"Broach" is the correct term.

Forgive me, but I'm confused - the new one with the green stripe is made in Taiwan (ROC) or mainland China (PRC)?

That they've elected to push the broach farther down into the socket may well be advantageous in some instances but it looks like the trade-off was the height of the socket.
Not sure exactly what you're referring to by "secondary shaping". I guess I need to learn how sockets are made. That chamfer around the inside perimeter at the opening (if I'm not mistaken) is to facilitate getting the socket onto a nut (or bolt) easier.

 

[PhilJohn]

New socket and ratchet drawers.

 

[M635_Guy]

"Broach" is the correct term.

Thanks!

Forgive me, but I'm confused - the new one with the green stripe is made in Taiwan (ROC) or mainland China (PRC)?

Box states "Made in China"

Not sure exactly what you're referring to by "secondary shaping". I guess I need to learn how sockets are made. That chamfer around the inside perimeter at the opening (if I'm not mistaken) is to facilitate getting the socket onto a nut (or bolt) easier.

I'm referring to the bottom (or top?) of the socket cavity:

 

[d.mcfarland]

I'm referring to the bottom (or top?) of the socket cavity:

Broaching depth or shallow broached in this case.

 

[Rickkyyr8]

Finally picked up the 7” & 10” Malco locking pliers

 

[jgeoffr]

So I did something... Did I need to do it? No. Did I want to do it? Yes. Plus, there's little chance of it getting cheaper... At least that's what I told myself.

Presenting the Knipex 87-01-560. Man, this thing is huge! Barely fits in my 24" wide box!

Even closed it fits smaller Cobras in its jaws!

Do I ever think I will use it? I don't know, but if I need it, I'll be glad I have it!

 

[M635_Guy]

Broaching depth or shallow broached in this case.

I **** at this - I'm referring to the lip that is present at the bottom of both SK sockets. (old is shallower, new is deeper, both have a 'lip' - I'll go back and look closer and see if I can grab a better pic):

 

[71goldss]

I **** at this - I'm referring to the lip that is present at the bottom of both SK sockets. (old is shallower, new is deeper, both have a 'lip' - I'll go back and look closer and see if I can grab a better pic):

I knew what you were referring to!

 

[four.cycle]

@M635_Guy -

Thank you... I just wanted to make sure we're on the same page.
I do not know what that extra machining is about, but yes, it does indeed look like an additional step was made in the making of those two pieces. I have no idea why they'd do that, other than possibly cleaning up the kind of "flash" (for lack of a better term) that occurs on some sockets. (example below - top row.)
Someone more conversant on socket manufacturing processes would be more qualified to address the question.
bk

 

[DRider]

A wrench extender and a cheap “XL” 12mm wrench, which isn’t really even that much longer than my normal 12mm wrench. Hoping this makes replacing the oil filter adapter seals easier on a Jeep 4.0L, as the bolt is tricky to get to, and is held in place with red loctite from the factory.

Not sure why I would need this wrench extender. If I needed more leverage on a bolt, I would just go with a breaker bar and a socket. I believe that would hold the socket better than a wrench and not round it off when applying a lot of torque. Plus, it looks like there could be some play with the extender and the wrench.

 

[WWheeler]

Not sure why I would need this wrench extender. If I needed more leverage on a bolt, I would just go with a breaker bar and a socket. I believe that would hold the socket better than a wrench and not round it off when applying a lot of torque. Plus, it looks like there could be some play with the extender and the wrench.

I pretty much only grab a wrench in those instances where a ratchet and socket won't work at all, and yet I still have to use a wrench an awful lot, and I don't have a wrench extender BUT I couldn't begin to count how many times I've put two wrenches together because I had to.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Someone more conversant on socket manufacturing processes would be more qualified to address the question.

I'm referring to the lip that is present at the bottom of both SK sockets. (old is shallower, new is deeper, both have a 'lip' -

@four.cycle,
You asked me to look at this. The only odd thing I see is that the socket on the very left with the shallow broaching seems to have an extra ledge or lip. The only time I have ever seen anything like that is for vintage spark plug sockets that had a hard rubber insert inside.

Otherwise, all those sockets look like fairly normal hot-forged sockets. The ledge or lip is where the broach stops. A socket blank has a round hole when it is first forged. It is broached when still hot with a die that forms the smooth, sharp teeth, corners, or points of final hex or double-hex shaped opening.

I have no idea why they'd do that, other than possibly cleaning up the kind of "flash" (for lack of a better term) that occurs on some sockets. (example below - top row.)

That kind of flash and leftover steel and chatter marks etc are usually seen on older cold-broached sockets where the final opening is made with a machine that mills or cuts the opening.

 

[assassin10000]

I pretty much only grab a wrench in those instances where a ratchet and socket won't work at all, and yet I still have to use a wrench an awful lot, and I don't have a wrench extender BUT I couldn't begin to count how many times I've put two wrenches together because I had to.

I use the wrench extender often for rusty or corroded lock nuts on tie rods or other aftermarlet adjustable suspension arms.


I also have the k-tool one that lets you use a 21mm or 1/2" breaker. For when you can't use a straight extender on the wrench but a wrench is the only thing that fits.

So I did something... Did I need to do it? No. Did I want to do it? Yes. Plus, there's little chance of it getting cheaper... At least that's what I told myself.

Presenting the Knipex 87-01-560. Man, this thing is huge! Barely fits in my 24" wide box!

Even closed it fits smaller Cobras in its jaws!

Do I ever think I will use it? I don't know, but if I need it, I'll be glad I have it!

I see your knipex and raise you a few more...


Granted your one probably weighs as much as all of these...

I **** at this - I'm referring to the lip that is present at the bottom of both SK sockets. (old is shallower, new is deeper, both have a 'lip' - I'll go back and look closer and see if I can grab a better pic):

I do not know what that extra machining is about, but yes, it does indeed look like an additional step was made in the making of those two pieces. I have no idea why they'd do that, other than possibly cleaning up the kind of "flash" (for lack of a better term) that occurs on some sockets. (example below - top row.)
Someone more conversant on socket manufacturing processes would be more qualified to address the question.
bk

The only odd thing I see is that the socket on the very left with the shallow broaching seems to have an extra ledge or lip. The only time I have ever seen anything like that is for vintage spark plug sockets that had a hard rubber insert inside.

I think that is an extra step for clearance of the bolt/stud to allow the socket to slip on deeper.

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Not sure why I would need this wrench extender. If I needed more leverage on a bolt, I would just go with a breaker bar and a socket. I believe that would hold the socket better than a wrench and not round it off when applying a lot of torque. Plus, it looks like there could be some play with the extender and the wrench.

I never said you needed it! Haha.

The oil filter adapter is so close to the frame rail, there is not enough room for a socket, let alone a breaker bar stick off the back of one . You have to pound out the T60 bit out from a socket, and then use a 12mm wrench on the hex shank to turn it. And it's TIGHT.

 

[Squankum]

So I did something... Did I need to do it? No. Did I want to do it? Yes. Plus, there's little chance of it getting cheaper... At least that's what I told myself.

Presenting the Knipex 87-01-560. Man, this thing is huge! Barely fits in my 24" wide box!

Even closed it fits smaller Cobras in its jaws!

Do I ever think I will use it? I don't know, but if I need it, I'll be glad I have it!

I did the same last year, except the price came down a lot, tempting me. Kind of a Cobra, kind of a Euro/Swedish pipe wrench. I did find a use for it within the first month. Weird thing is, I love my 10" Cobras, my 6" Cobras, and hardly ever use my 14" Cobras, or the wee tiny Cobras a fellow Knipex sufferer egged me on to buy.

 

[four.cycle]

@Private Lugnutz -
Thanks!

RE: "A socket blank has a round hole when it is first forged. It is broached when still hot with a die that forms the smooth, sharp teeth, corners, or points of final hex or double-hex shaped opening."

I am interpreting that to mean that the round "lip" (that M635_guy is referring to) was already there prior to the broach being sent down the throat of the socket, correct?

I'm still not sure I get it. I'll go dig up some YouTube videos and see if I can make sense of it.... sometimes I can be pretty thick about some stuff.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I am interpreting that to mean that the round "lip" (that M635_guy is referring to) was already there prior to the broach being sent down the throat of the socket, correct?

As I said, I don't know what that extra ledge or lip is, except for the situation I described with spark plugs sockets with internal jackets, but no, I am assuming it was made when the broach was done by the same die that made the broach. Again, not sure why.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

Just got some Westling trays, a Williams flex head ratchet and a 3/8” extension in the mail. Nice stuff.

I like Westling trays for work and my little cart in the garage. They aren’t as mobile as my Ernst rails but they are better when I just need to grab stuff and put it back quickly. No need to twist-lock. Plus if a guy at work needs to borrow something he just has to pull on the socket. I’ve had the dudes at work break so many Ernst clips trying to figure out how to get the sockets off.

Really digging the Williams. Head is a bit floppy so I’ll adjust the screw. It’s 36 tooth but it feels pretty smooth and I really like the feel of the handle. It’s hard getting sockets on though. That ball doesn’t want to flex in. LOL.

 

[Etchase]

As I said, I don't know what that extra ledge or lip is, except for the situation I described with spark plugs sockets with internal jackets, but no, I am assuming it was made when the broach was done by the same die that made the broach. Again, not sure why.

I see the same “lip” on some recent Apex sockets, both Gearwrench and SATA, but not all sizes

Not all the new S-K sockets have it either in my set.

 

[ForrestT]

New arrival for bathtub drain replacement.

 

[DRider]

I did the same last year, except the price came down a lot, tempting me. Kind of a Cobra, kind of a Euro/Swedish pipe wrench. I did find a use for it within the first month. Weird thing is, I love my 10" Cobras, my 6" Cobras, and hardly ever use my 14" Cobras, or the wee tiny Cobras a fellow Knipex sufferer egged me on to buy.

That is a massive plier.

 

[71goldss]

New arrival for bathtub drain replacement.

I’ll be replacing my bathtub in the near future, and though I have the typical drain removal tool, I fear I’ll end up needing what you got. I know it’s basically a huge splined screw extractor, but is there a specific plumbing name for it, and where did you get it? Thanks!

 

[purplezr2]

I’ll be replacing my bathtub in the near future, and though I have the typical drain removal tool, I fear I’ll end up needing what you got. I know it’s basically a huge splined screw extractor, but is there a specific plumbing name for it, and where did you get it? Thanks!

bathtub drain extractor

I know that Ace Hardware carries them, as that is where I bought mine.

 

[71goldss]

bathtub drain extractor

I know that Ace Hardware carries them, as that is where I bought mine.

Cool and thanks! I’ll pick one up the next time I’m there.

 

[M635_Guy]

I see the same “lip” on some recent Apex sockets, both Gearwrench and SATA, but not all sizes

Not all the new S-K sockets have it either in my set.

Hmmm... I kinda wonder if it does that at sizes common for dome/acorn-head nuts for a bit of clearance...

 

[threewood]

New to me Snap On XB 3234 wrench. I needed both 1" and 1 1/16" so a two fer. Lots of drawer wear, closed ends look excellent.

 

[ForrestT]

I’ll be replacing my bathtub in the near future, and though I have the typical drain removal tool, I fear I’ll end up needing what you got. I know it’s basically a huge splined screw extractor, but is there a specific plumbing name for it, and where did you get it? Thanks!

Here’s the sad part: I was able to remove it with the dumbbell I already own. Will keep it. For $18 who knows when I’ll need it in the future and was able to get a made in the USA off of eBay.

 

[PhilJohn]

Just got some Westling trays, a Williams flex head ratchet and a 3/8” extension in the mail. Nice stuff.

I like Westling trays for work and my little cart in the garage. They aren’t as mobile as my Ernst rails but they are better when I just need to grab stuff and put it back quickly. No need to twist-lock. Plus if a guy at work needs to borrow something he just has to pull on the socket. I’ve had the dudes at work break so many Ernst clips trying to figure out how to get the sockets off.

Really digging the Williams. Head is a bit floppy so I’ll adjust the screw. It’s 36 tooth but it feels pretty smooth and I really like the feel of the handle. It’s hard getting sockets on though. That ball doesn’t want to flex in. LOL.

You and me

Just got some Westling trays, a Williams flex head ratchet and a 3/8” extension in the mail. Nice stuff.

I like Westling trays for work and my little cart in the garage. They aren’t as mobile as my Ernst rails but they are better when I just need to grab stuff and put it back quickly. No need to twist-lock. Plus if a guy at work needs to borrow something he just has to pull on the socket. I’ve had the dudes at work break so many Ernst clips trying to figure out how to get the sockets off.

Really digging the Williams. Head is a bit floppy so I’ll adjust the screw. It’s 36 tooth but it feels pretty smooth and I really like the feel of the handle. It’s hard getting sockets on though. That ball doesn’t want to flex in. LOL.

Love my Westling Trays. I get the mobility issue but if you’re a guy like me who’s tools never the shop they are awesome.

 

[71goldss]

Here’s the sad part: I was able to remove it with the dumbbell I already own. Will keep it. For $18 who knows when I’ll need it in the future and was able to get a made in the USA off of eBay.

I wasn’t even aware of basically a screw extractor that size just for drains, so now I’ll be looking for one. I have the Irwin dumbbell that I fully expect to just rip the spokes (for lack of better name) out of the drain at first turn of the dumbbell. The drain has been in since 1960, and more than likely a lot of corrosion, so I want to be prepared In advance! Thanks again!

 

[captain14]

Here is what was waiting on me when I got home. This and tons of license plates lol. I loved the Duralast ratchet I bought last week so I decided to get two more a 1/4 fixed head and flex head. And a good set of needle nose pliers. I’ve had good luck with all their tools both at work and home so I’m happy I got these. Anybody looking for good quality ratchets don’t overlook Duralast I’m very happy with mine. Very smooth.

Blake,

I know you’ve been hitting Auto Zone for tools recently, are you buying enough quantity each time for their online discount they offer?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Blake,

I know you’ve been hitting Auto Zone for tools recently, are you buying enough quantity each time for their online discount they offer?

It hasn’t sent me anything about an online discount. I use my rewards card every time though. It says like one more purchase to get a reward or something like that. I’m sure I’ll get it soon haha.

 

[ForrestT]

I wasn’t even aware of basically a screw extractor that size just for drains, so now I’ll be looking for one. I have the Irwin dumbbell that I fully expect to just rip the spokes (for lack of better name) out of the drain at first turn of the dumbbell. The drain has been in since 1960, and more than likely a lot of corrosion, so I want to be prepared In advance! Thanks again!

No prob. Look on eBay. $18 with free shipping. Superior tool. New open box. Something like farm and home out of New Jersey.