I would advise against pulling the drain plug on early 2nd gen Tundras/Sequoias. They are notorious for stripping when removing and now your stuck dealing with a spinning/leaking bolt you cant remove or tighten, not to mention now needing to buy a replacement pan.
Prying the bolt with a thin bar and hammering with an impact will sometimes get the bolt out.
Toyotas factory torque spec on this bolt was too high. Sometimes the bolt threads will take the hit instead of the pan bung, in which case a new bolt will work after chasing the pan.
After locking out the thermostatic valve (if equipped with towing), a paperclip on DLC terminals 4&13, start engine, shift in one second intervals P, R, N, D, N, D, N, D, N, D, N should now display “D” for 2 seconds, shift back to P. Gauge cluster will light up like a flashing x-mas tree and once correct temp is reached, “D” will display. Flashing “D” means over temp and procedure has to be redone after cooling.
Otherwise fill fluid to a slow trickle.
Remove t-valve grenade pin without cooking your arm on the toasty cat conv.
It’s not as difficult as it sounds and pretty ingenious of Toyota to design an on-board check procedure.