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[landrover bodger]

Cv joint removal slide hammer and boot clamp pliers

 

[lund]

Cv joint removal slide hammer and boot clamp pliers

I tried using a slide hammer to remove cv joints/drive axles with an attachment similar to what you bought. It worked ok, but for me, it seemed like more trouble than it was worth relative to just putting in a pry bar and finding a lip near the inner joint to pry out against. Usually, a pretty light tap on a pry bar with hammer is all that it takes. So getting the slide hammer setup with the right clearances, position, etc seemed like more trouble than it was worth when they come out pretty easy.

Conversely, where I have had more problem (I am just a diy guy but lived in an area with winding hillside roads that caused cars to eat cv joints: so I have done about 12 sets over the years) is telling when the new or rebuilt assembly is fully seated when installing the new or rebuilt shaft. It can take a pretty good shock with a hammer to drive in and it can be hard to tell when it is fully seated (I recommend looking underneath for the change in position relative to how it was before while comparing to a pre-removal picture to have confidence it is correct). I recommend putting an old axle nut on the end (to protect the threads) and using a scarp piece of wood to hammer on the end with the axle positioned correctly to drive in.

I have the same boot clamp pliers as you do, but I do not rebuild the joints anymore and buy new assemblies since it is a messy job and the new shafts are not that expensive for the cars that I have. These days, for me, the cost of inner and outer boot kits is close to the cost of the new non-OEM shaft from reputable brands. So it does not make sense. If you have a car where that is not true, then the situation may be different. The boot clamp pliers work very well for the relevant type of clamps (there are a few styles). I never used the 3/8 drive slots for a torque wrench on the pliers though: It seemed pretty easy to get the tension about right by feel with the pliers and I never had an issue doing that with about 6 shaft rebuilds (12 boots with 24 clamps total). So it seemed like an unnecessary overkill.

 

[landrover bodger]

I tried using a slide hammer to remove cv joints/drive axles with an attachment similar to what you bought. It worked ok, but for me, it seemed like more trouble than it was worth relative to just putting in a pry bar and finding a lip near the inner joint to pry out against. Usually, a pretty light tap on a pry bar with hammer is all that it takes. So getting the slide hammer setup with the right clearances, position, etc seemed like more trouble than it was worth when they come out pretty easy.

Conversely, where I have had more problem (I am just a diy guy but lived in an area with winding hillside roads that caused cars to eat cv joints: so I have done about 12 sets over the years) is telling when the new or rebuilt assembly is fully seated when installing the new or rebuilt shaft. It can take a pretty good shock with a hammer to drive in and it can be hard to tell with in (recommend looking underneath for the change in position relative to how it was before with a pre-removal picture to compare). I recommend putting an old axle nut on the end (to protect the threads) and using a scarp piece of wood to hammer on the end with the axle positioned correctly to drive in.

I have the same boot clamp pliers as you do, but I do not rebuild the joints anymore and buy new assemblies since it is a messy job and the new shafts are not that expensive for the cars that I have. The boot clamp pliers work very well for the relevant type of clamps (there are a few). I never used the 3/8 drive slots for a torque wrench on the pliers though: It seemed pretty easy to get the tension about right by feel and I never had an issue doing that with about 6 shaft rebuilds (12 boots with 24 clamps total).

the slide hammer would not work on the car i was repairing a discovery 3 due to not enough clearance to use it so i replaced both boot without removing the shaft at the diff end. i was doing this crawling about on the floor outside.

 

[lund]

the slide hammer would not work on the car i was repairing a discovery 3 due to not enough clearance to use it so i replaced both boot without removing the shaft at the diff end. i was doing this crawling about on the floor outside.

Ouch. That would be hard to do access wise without removing the shaft! Split boots could work but they do not tend to last long. Try just using a pry-bar in the gap and I think you will find they will pop out easily with just a light hammer tap on the prybar to put an outward shock. Sometimes I would not even need the hammer tap and just a light hand slap would work. But I can see your point that there is often not a lot of clearance between the inboard joint structure and the oil seal to get the slide hammer fitting in.





























ould have had the same issue on one of the cars I was working on if I continued to try the slide hammer.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Odd bits edition.

Erbauer impact bits PZ4
An inconvenient learning that PH and PZ actually go higher than 3.


Facom RTM.3/4/5/6GRP Hex OGV Grip bit sockets 1/4"
Because manufacturers of bikes and bike multitools ****. Didn't need them this time, just bought after in case of future trouble with the typical sizes. Unlike the OGV Grip wrenches and sockets, they're specifically for damaged heads rather than general use. Also sold as Grip Edge and Mac RBRT, and also without the sockets by USAG in a small kit.

 

[Pinne]

Icon light and a set of Craftsman 1/4" locking extensions.

The Icon light might be going back - I don't find it to be a terribly stellar piece of equipment, the warranty on them is nothing special, and I think I'd rather have Astro's designs.

The Craftsman set, for under $30, seems pretty decent. The interface isn't quite as good as a fresh Snap-on extension but I really do not like the collar style locking extensions when snaking through tight hoses and other interfaces - they tend to get hung up.

 

[cody1325]

Went to the antique store near my house and spent exactly $1. And that was on three diecast cars.

But, knives I didn't want (not ones I carried, and not old enough to be collection knives) paid the bill for the bulk.

Cantilever toolbox--green hammered finish. No notable markings anywhere, but good quality. Been looking for one for ages--wanted a Kennedy, but this is still decent. Also--compact enough to be my new household box--without the fragile nature of the 1970s plastic Old Pal I used to use.

Kind of looks European in style. Also, did Toyo make toolboxes going back this far?

Cost--a worn out 2001 Case Trapper (bought for near-nothing) and a 2014 Muskrat with Zytel handles (that I got for maybe $20 on clearance).

To be refinished.





Also included were "a box of sockets" inside or so I was told.

That was a 1970s or so SK box.

Again--needs a good refinishing.



It was really the interesting part--as while few in number compared to no-name Taiwan and Japan--there are some great sockets in there.

There are Indestro, JCPenney, SK (the bulk of the good ones), and Craftsman. Also, one Snap-On and two Par-X.


1963 Snap-On 1/2 3/8 Drive



Is this what they call Flank Drive?




Indestro Super 1/4 drive--8 pt and 12 pt. 3/8 and 11/32 if I recall correctly .

Now I need an Indestro ratchet...



JCPenney 11mm semi-deep.

Seem to recall these were SK sourced?



My first Par-X tools. Seem to recall this was Snap-On's old lower-price range?

Two sockets, but I noticed I only got the 7/32 1/4 drive photographed.



Tiny mystery socket. Definitely smaller than 1/4 drive... It's maybe a 1/8 socket.





The other good sockets are all SK. Didn't get a photo. Looks like tomorrow, I'm getting Evaporust...

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Menards for the bit set for in the house.

Menards for hose clamp assortment - need one yesterday and didn’t have any.

Rural King for Milwaukee vise grips, Hobart plasma cutter glasses and magnetic ground for the Cut50.

 

[tiredoldironworker]

I just found a Craftsman Crown top cantilever box with the 2 top drawers covered. It is in decent shape with a new paint job needed. Do I need to be first in line at store opening tomorrow with my 30 dollars?

 

[afazz]

I was really hoping the coolant pressure adapter would arrive before my dealer received the new CTR869 super long ratchets, as I don’t have self control, but I didn’t make it in time. They got me.

 

[cody1325]

Menards for the bit set for in the house.

Menards for hose clamp assortment - need one yesterday and didn’t have any.

Rural King for Milwaukee vise grips, Hobart plasma cutter glasses and magnetic ground for the Cut50.

I like how that Masterforce set has just two inch bits. Dewalt tends to include a mix of inch and two inch in the kits--when one-inch needs an adapter to work with impacts, and the fit is weird.

With Dewalt, most of the cases I've bought (or Granddad bought) for a decade + have been modular (and more recently, they lock together like Toughstack).

I tend to yank them out, and arrange the cases to just have two-inch bits. I may keep a couple rows of inch bits in sizes I use as spares, but that's it. I only use inch bits in my hand screwdrivers and cordless screwdriver. The inch bits tend to stay in the handles of my various bit drivers (3/4 of them Pratt-Read made for other companies).

Also, of the Vise Grips I can buy in a store (meaning nothing European, Snap-On/Eagle Grips, and Grip-On), I think Milwaukee are the best. I have not been kind to my 4-inch pair I have for pocket carry. They cut most fencing wire clean too! While designed for tethering/sticking a screwdriver in--the Torque Lock screws are far easier for hand adjustment in my opinion.

And also, at $11--I'd rather replace them than Knipex--which start at around double for the 140mm Combination Pliers.

 

[GTO]

Matco long reach plier set, Vessel galaxy screwdriver set

Can you tell me where you purchased these. TIA (The Vessel set)

 

[JSGAuto]

Picked up a new stump grapple.

Got a great deal on Marketplace, and met a cool seller, that never happens!

 

[cody1325]

Can you tell me where you purchased these. TIA (The Vessel set)

Best I can tell, they are Matco exclusives in that color.

 

[ETJ]

Can you tell me where you purchased these. TIA (The Vessel set)

If that's the purple vessel set, then Cornwell sells them too, but they are back ordered: https://webcat.cornwelltools.com/VES4308EVAMU-Iridescent-Purple-Tang-Thru-Screwdriver-Set-p716034101

 

[Fly Fishing Rick]

Found these on sale for $7.50 each, which is about half price. So I bought up a few of them.

 

[mikeinri]

Picked up a new stump grapple.

Got a great deal on Marketplace, and met a cool seller, that never happens!

Need pics of the grapple!

I've been lucky with sellers (usually CL, rarely FBMP). Of course, I weed through a bunch of people before meeting in person, just through Q&A emails.

Mike

 

[Ohio Andy]

If that's the purple vessel set, then Cornwell sells them too, but they are back ordered: https://webcat.cornwelltools.com/VES4308EVAMU-Iridescent-Purple-Tang-Thru-Screwdriver-Set-p716034101

I was so excited when I saw the purple and I almost ordered a set even though I have a set with a different handle color.... I knew my daughter would love them. She won't be getting them

 

[Lowlevel2021]

Couple pack out racking kits for my existing boxes I had on wheels. Plan to add more eventually for small part organization.

 

[ararat]

I had an Amazon gift card so I got a beer can detector. Works pretty good.

 

[JSGAuto]

Need pics of the grapple!

Gobbling down a tree!

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Milwaukee 2967-20. It is a handful.

I am doing the front wheel bearings on my F250 and my IR 2235 QTiMAX air impact wasn't doing a thing to the caliper bracket bolts and hub-knuckle nuts. I sprayed them with penetrant the night before. My next step would normally be heat, and I do have an induction heater, but I was tired of fooling around with and took advantage of Home Depot's buy a 2967 for $299 and get an XC 5.0 battery free.
I already have plenty of M18 XC 5.0 so will likely sell it on FB for $50.

That makes the effective cost of the 2967 $249. So around $20 a fastener to remove for this job.

 

[KnurledNut]

Some recent odds and ends...

Tapered point metric feeler gauge.


10mm sockets. $7 after 30% coupon.


Some long bits for my 1/4 hand impact.
The socket retention on the flip drivers is really good. Better than my Malcos.


Bit the bullet. MAC SBDB77RBRT.


Used Sweeney Aerospace (Enerpac) 3/4 drive sliding, telescoping T-handle. Absolute monstrosity. Almost 32" long.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

And a persuader to help loosen the hub.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

Or was it over there?

Nope, pretty sure it went under my toolbox.

 

[Squankum]

Hate to break it to you - it won't be your last Snap-On purchase.
They are like Pringles.......

Oh, indeed.

 

[shoggoth80]

10mm and 13mm low profile 3/8 sockets. 6pt vs the 12pts I already own. They're also a hair shorter based off specs from the website. Mostly, I just wanted to get some good low profile 6pts. Eventually gonna piecemeal a set in my commonly used sizes.

 

[Blt2Lst]

And a persuader to help loosen the hub.

Some recent odds and ends...
View attachment 2406285

Great marketing idea by HF.

 

[Lowlevel2021]

58” Icon pry bar since it was $30 off, also another magnetic mat which somehow ringed up 25% off, cashier thought maybe cause I had already purchased more than 4 icon items since the sale started.

 

[Jarhead0408]

58” Icon pry bar since it was $30 off, also another magnetic mat, somehow it ringed up 25%, cashier said maybe cau

$30 off, or 30% off?

Nevermind
$30 off. Wow! That's a good deal.

 

[Lowlevel2021]

$30 off, or 30% off?

Nevermind
$30 off. Wow! That's a good deal.

Yea I guess it was either $30 off or 30% as the regular price is $100 and on sale for $70. Seemed to be the better deal vs anything I could find online.

 

[msharley]

These arrived today from BASSBONE 52

Great guy!

 

[Etchase]

This years Kobolt mini-pliers. $20. If they have any left they should go on sale around Christmas. Last year the 2-piece 15 dollar set had a one day sale at $10 IIRC.

 

[cody1325]

This years Kobolt mini-pliers. $20. If they have any left they should go on sale around Christmas. Last year the 2-piece 15 dollar set had a one day sale at $10 IIRC.

In store yet? Lowe's doesn't list them as in stock at any of the stores in what is, roughly an hour's radius near me.

I have free shipping through my rewards status, and $5 from buying a new charger and batteries to convert an old (and lightly used) Dewalt 18V kit over to 20V. I'm thinking about ordering them due to it costing me only around $10 counting shipping.

My biggest regret last year was not buying multiples. My Lowe's sucked at keeping them in stock as it got closer to Christmas. I think this year, when I buy my personal set I'll start getting the ones for gifts, as well as duplicates for every box and vehicle I've got tools in.

 

[rword]

Made in USA

 

[Ohio Andy]

Made in USA

Love these... I bought the entire set of made in USA... They don't make that easy...

 

[rword]

Love these... I bought the entire set of messed in USA... They don't make that easy...

Which ones ?

 

[Ohio Andy]

Which ones ?

I don't even remember where I bought them, but they do not sell an entire set. I have it all written down... If you want I can pull the entire list. They list them here...

#1 Phillips 3" Cushion Grip Screwdriver (USA) | Milwaukee Tool

The Milwaukee® Cushion Grip Screwdrivers are manufactured to give the professional the best-fitting screwdriver with max grip.

www.milwaukeetool.com

I bought the biggest set they sell.... And then the individual drivers... I don't think they sell the ecx in a set, for example

 

[rword]

I don't even remember where I bought them, but they do not sell an entire set. I have it all written down... If you want I can pull the entire list. They list them here...

#1 Phillips 3" Cushion Grip Screwdriver (USA) | Milwaukee Tool

The Milwaukee® Cushion Grip Screwdrivers are manufactured to give the professional the best-fitting screwdriver with max grip.

www.milwaukeetool.com

I bought the biggest set they sell.... And then the individual drivers... I don't think they sell the ecx in a set, for example

Gotcha. The 6 piece set I got was the biggest could find.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I don't even remember where I bought them, but they do not sell an entire set. I have it all written down... If you want I can pull the entire list. They list them here...

#1 Phillips 3" Cushion Grip Screwdriver (USA) | Milwaukee Tool

The Milwaukee® Cushion Grip Screwdrivers are manufactured to give the professional the best-fitting screwdriver with max grip.

www.milwaukeetool.com

I bought the biggest set they sell.... And then the individual drivers... I don't think they sell the ecx in a set, for example

OK, I went to my computer to look it up.... Note that these are laser etched with a diamond coating so they grip very nicely. There is the standard 6 bit set that I bought at Ace. The other 13 drivers probably add up to about $200 when I bought them in April.

Make	Model	Len	Tip	Made	F	Comment
Milwaukee	MT201	3"	PH1	USA	D	MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT202	4"	PH2	USA	D	MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT203	6"	PH3	USA	D	MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT204	10"	PH2	USA	D	($15)
Milwaukee	MT205	6"	PH2	USA	D	Demolition ($17)
Milwaukee	MT206	4"	SL 1/4"	USA	TD	MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT207	6"	SL 5/16"	USA	TD	MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT 208	6"	SL 5/16"	USA	TD	Demolition ($17)
Milwaukee	MT 209	8"	SL 3/8"	USA	TD	($18)
Milwaukee	MT 210	8"	SL 5/16"	USA	TD	Demolition ($21)
Milwaukee	MT211	3"	SL 3/16"	USA	TD	Cabinet ($12)
Milwaukee	MT212	6"	SL 3/16"	USA	TD	Cabinet MT200-6 set of 6 Made in USA
Milwaukee	MT213	8"	SL 3/16"	USA	TD	Cabinet ($14)
Milwaukee	MT214	10"	SL 1/4"	USA	TD	Cabinet ($15)
Milwaukee	MT215	4"	ECX 1	USA	D	ECX ($13)
Milwaukee	MT216	4"	ECX 2	USA	D	ECX ($13)
Milwaukee	MT217	6"	S1	USA	D	Robertson Square ($12)
Milwaukee	MT218	4"	S2	USA	D	Robertson Square ($13)
Milwaukee	MT219	6"	S3	USA	D	Robertson Square ($14)

Note a D means the tip is diamond coated and a T means it has a triangular tip. A triangular tip indicates that it is slotted, but not all slotted drivers have triangular tips; for example, PB Swiss and Grace.

If I remember correctly, it was not easy to pull the model number from the web site for all the versions, for example, MT215 and MT216.