Steel_Rain
Well-known member
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- Apr 23, 2024
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- 1,320
Got a link to this?
They make a 90 degree version as well. .. I have both versions, frequent use for me is on Mercury outboards motors.Oh cool. I haven’t seen these. I use oetiker clamps daily for years. Knipex sells pliers for them. Before I even knew about Knipex, it was what showed up when I ordered a tool for it from McMaster. This compound action one looks cool. I have a feeling that it won’t fit in some of the tighter areas I use oetikers, but I think I’ll have to get this anyway.
As a person who spent his life working metal once explained to me, metal doesn’t want to be flat and straight.Set of Hazet 600n 7-24mm missing the 20 and 23mm. What bugs me is most of these are bowed to varying degrees and directions. You'd think on the expensive stuff like this they would at least get the most basic things right. Doesn't really affect useability but how are they not making them straight and uniform? It's kind of dissapointing.
I bought a set of these 4-5 years ago. Only 1 wrench is bowed, and only very slightly.Set of Hazet 600n 7-24mm missing the 20 and 23mm. What bugs me is most of these are bowed to varying degrees and directions. You'd think on the expensive stuff like this they would at least get the most basic things right. Doesn't really affect useability but how are they not making them straight and uniform? It's kind of dissapointing.
Harleys use them a lot, I have a couple of small pliers, those would be too big in most situations in my work.^ Is that "low profile" clamp being used on OEM applications?
If so, which vehicles are using that style clamp as OE?
I bought a set from 10-19 a few years ago. None were bowed; I guess I got lucky.I bought a set of these 4-5 years ago. Only 1 wrench is bowed, and only very slightly.
Set of Hazet 600n 7-24mm missing the 20 and 23mm. What bugs me is most of these are bowed to varying degrees and directions. You'd think on the expensive stuff like this they would at least get the most basic things right. Doesn't really affect useability but how are they not making them straight and uniform? It's kind of dissapointing.
I found the problem, hes wearing eye glasses! I don’t know about anyone else, but when I am doing precision work, I always try to wear my contacts instead of my glasses. The peripheral distortion of glasses lens really makes it difficult to judge straightness (without a reference object). I’m half joking, but honestly I’m sitting here wearing my glasses right now and I do not feel adept to straighten wrenches because of it.The forging process doesn’t lend itself to straight pieces. They have a guy who straightens them out by eye. Very interesting multi-part factory tour. Some of Hazet is old school.
I will confess I had to look up just what the heck these Canary tools were for! Worth buying?
We use the Oetiker clamps all day in the "stepless" variant. For my application, its not about the clamp being low profile, but the stepless ones are able to complete 360 degrees of even clamp pressure. Typically clamps have a gap in the uniformity. That isnt an issue with softer thicker material like rubber hoses. But to clamp plastic hoses, you need that stepless feature or it is very prone to causing a leak where the plastic sort of bunches up and lifts away.

Stepless Oetiker clamps are my go-to tubing clamp in the brewery/pub.May I ask what industry? Automotive? These are used in just about every car coming out of the EU these days and I'll invest in @Monte fancy compound action set if there is value / +workmanship advantages. Most of the stuff in my application is light duty air pressure, so PCV hoses, EVAP hoses or general breather / emissions ****, not straight pressured high volume fluids.
I have the Knipex 10 99 I220 now:
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Thank you , I'll try one and see how it feels to use.
I have to say , the Gedore set I got is growing on me , while the handle isn't as nice as I was used to , I'm able to easily get a firm grip and apply a fair amount of torqe due to the fact that it fits very well when applying the torque , the handle fits well on my hand too. So ill use these for a bit and buy singles from some that I've short listed based on the suggestions here.
I'm starting to like the Gedores( the person who replied that said they'd grow on me earlier was right ) , particularly the PH2, it's fit is very precise.
Maybe they do know better than I do about what I need from a handle , let's see. Holding them vs actually using them , is quite a different experience vs others you can tell when you hold them the handle just doesn't cut it. If this makes sense.



You'll be pleasantly surprised!I'm going to see how much my 1/4" Dewalt impact driver can take![]()
That is the same Knipex unit I have been using all these years. I read the reviews on the compound ones, and people are saying they are not easier... I guess they don't feel the additional leverage. Looking at the design, the offset isn't very great so I guess it doesn't look like they add a ton of leverage but without measuring things up its hard to say. I must admit they are not particularly difficult to compress anyway, so I am not sure my appeal to add the compound set other than just adding some variety in the every-day.May I ask what industry? Automotive? These are used in just about every car coming out of the EU these days and I'll invest in @Monte fancy compound action set if there is value / +workmanship advantages. Most of the stuff in my application is light duty air pressure, so PCV hoses, EVAP hoses or general breather / emissions ****, not straight pressured high volume fluids.
I have the Knipex 10 99 I220 now:
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Looks like good stuff. Paid $100 or less ?
Looks like good stuff. Paid $100 or less ?
I have a couple of different thread checkers, including that plate style one mentioned a few posts up, but I also have that ball-style thread thread detective shown above and they are hands down my favorite... I'm not sure they are still available to purchase though.


I got the same knock off raptors for 3 years. Also got it very cheap on aliexpress. I bought them to hopefully never use them. In my country you are required to carry a first aid kit (also must not be older than 5 years) in a road legal car. The supplied scissors in those are always very bad. These are beefy enough to cut through leather in a pinch.Knockoffs of the Leatherman Raptor.
I normally don't buy knockoffs, but I was curious about the Raptor--but couldn't see dropping almost $100 on one (when they first came out, they were around $70). If I were in EMS, I'd never buy the knockoff, ever.
They are fussy to lock open and the strap cutter is dull as can be, and for $17.99 I know they aren't 420HC despite the directions saying so.
They do cut well, however--and surprisingly, the ring cutter can cut rebar tie wire without damage.
So yes, they'll at least see use until I buy the Raptor called for by next month's budget. I'll try to use my diamond needle file to get a decent edge on that strap cutter for twine, tape, and paracord.
A bit bulky folded up.
The cheap Fiskars folding "travel scissors" are actually better for most of what calls for scissors. Plus, I can carry them in my pocket all day and not notice them.
Less than $10 (I think mine were $6-ish) almost everywhere and really good quality.
A caution on these: 1/4 hex is really not up to the torque that you can need on stuck fasteners using 1/2" drive sockets or even 3/8" drive sockets. I have found these type of adapters twist up like a pretzel regardless of brand if you use them on a stronger impact and hammer. When they deform and/or break, they can get get stuck in the hex bit chuck and can be a big pain to extract. I gave up trying to find a strong enough version (I doubt it is possible ... 1/4 hex steel is just not strong enough or brittle if very tempered) and bought a battery-powered 3/8" anvil impact driver for automotive work. That ended the problem. I can use the 3/8 anvil with a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter (these are strong enough) or even a 3.8" square to hex adapter to use ordinary hex shank bits (I do not do this much since I have a 1/4 hex impact driver for screws etc ... but do so when I need another driver at the same time if someone is helping me) on the 3/8 impact.
I use something similar too and agree it is overall pretty good. However, the cable still can get in the way of some applications. I am tempted to cut the cable off and put them in a small plastic organizer. The cable is great for compactly keeping them together. But it gets in the way for use. I hang my version near my taps, dies, and drills. They are cheap enough where it might make sense to buy two and disconnect one for when the cable gets in the way. As some have pointed out you can buy these in an organized plastic storage box for a little more $. But that would also be easy to make in the form wanted (standard, metric, large/small etc).
Here is a great write-up about the m-110, specifically;
I have one of those and I used it for a long time. I eventually replaced it, not that I got rid of it. It bought something that said case is easier to haul around. I specifically bought this one That is no longer available
A caution on these: 1/4 hex is really not up tot he torque that you can need on stuck 1/2" drive sockets or even 3/8" drive. I found these type of things twist up like a pretzel regardless of brand if you use them on a stronger impact and hammer. In that process they can deform and get stuck in the chuck and can be a pain to extract. I gave up trying to find a strong enough version (I doubt possible) and bought a 3/8" anvil battery impact for automotive work. That ended the problem. I can use that with a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter or a hex adapter (I do not do this much since I have a 1/4 hex impact driver for screws etc ... but when I might need another) .