Show Your Tools Working.

[Matt472]

Those socket trays, where can I find them?

 

[darkzero]

Those socket trays, where can I find them?

I got them 8-9 years ago when I was an auto mechanic. I had an old catalog & gave my SO dealer the p/ns I wanted. He was only able to get certain ones in certain colors as he said they were discontinued.

They were made in red, green, & orange. I have the 1/4 & 3/8 short metric in green & 3/8 deep in orange (still looking for a green). They're magnetic lined in the center & the back plates are removable so you can stick them to the side of the tool box or so it doesn't move around in a drawer or on the service cart.

Although they've been discontinued many years ago they still pop up on ebay. Search Snap On Magnetic Organizer

 

[sdguy55]

Think that's bad, should have snapped some pics of the Acerts I just worked on recently, oil cooler on a C13 and a water pump / overhead on a C15 in a Pete 387, talk about cramped f%#kin quarters!!

We have a guy rebuilding a c15 and i was looking the motor over yesterday and its kinda crazy the similarities between it and a 3406e (transfer pump on front, fuel line in back) etc

 

[dsch]

Have to love a good Jack Stand

 

[sdguy55]

Think that's bad, should have snapped some pics of the Acerts I just worked on recently, oil cooler on a C13 and a water pump / overhead on a C15 in a Pete 387, talk about cramped f%#kin quarters!!

Well i got to do a waterpump on a c15 acert yesterday...it wasnt horrible i thought just alot of trying to figure out what the hell has to come off and what doesnt.

 

[Skin]

I like this thread so heres my small contribution. I muck about in small engine stuff part time, so heres in our small shop. Doing a pretty basic axle bushing R&R on a mid-late 70s Ariens. Some of these can be giant pains in the asses but this one fell apart with ease. Testament to the quality of the day. Newer machines the hubs rust to the axles in a couple years. Dont even get me started on the big box store brands with plastic liners that swell under the hub. Anyway the worse of the two is actually from the opposite side i did before i snapped a few pics. Almost into the flange. Impacts, torches, and hammers are your friend with all the rust but one must be very careful tightening. I prefer my 1/4" ratchet. Either the studs are so small they break right off or the cast aluminum parts shatter. Doesnt take much force at all. Although it wasnt in for any engine work did an oil change on it anyway. Needed it too since it was down about 10 ounces from the original 20.

 

[Monte]

removed the bumpers with the help of 2 jacks:



rat. screwdriver in action


removing engine...


cutting sheet metal


misc.



oil filter exchange



making batterie frames for a electric car:








removing engine bearings on a small block


valve removal



transporting a rear axle


removing 4100 engine


plasma cutting


sanding a hood


more sanding (bench grinder stand)


removing exhaust bolt

 

[seth_man]

Drilling and tapping, so much fun

 

[Krokodil]

Nice pics, Monte!

 

[jeffmoss26]

Skin, that is an interesting Craftsman ratchet...never seen one like that!

 

[m_hatcher]

If I am seeing that correctly, that is one of craftsmans newer 84 tooth ratchet. They have em in sears near me for about $65. They dont feel like 84 tooth just by turning them by hand, but I have not used one in the field yet.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00902548000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Ratchets+%26+Sockets&sName=Ratchets&prdNo=10

 

[Monte]

removing the a-arms




removed the ball joint


and the shafts

 

[Skin]

Skin, that is an interesting Craftsman ratchet...never seen one like that!

If I am seeing that correctly, that is one of craftsmans newer 84 tooth ratchet. They have em in sears near me for about $65. They dont feel like 84 tooth just by turning them by hand, but I have not used one in the field yet.

Correct, 84T 1/4". That drive size has been on sale for $35 for quite awhile now so not entirely unaffordable. I have the 3/8" too. Not quite as smooth as a dual 80 but they are thinner and a darn nice ratchet none the less. I put some good use on both since i got them about a year and a half ago. Even got another set for home .

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Some day We might get another pair, but for now I can only lift up one end.....but we don't do chassis work - getting access underneath is usually just to run a hydraulic hose or get to wiring.....
16k lb rated

Thats pretty wild, think I saw a picture of those things lifting a bus up.
So what do you do, just roll one under each wheel and lift it?
Do you need 4 people to raise it, of are the lifts tied together?

 

[sdguy55]

Idk how his works but mine you just daisychain them together and you just need one person

 

[MXblur]

What i did today...first time ive pulled a ******

An common now your first ****** isn't supposed to be made easy with a lift, you gotta do it on your back or in the fetal position!

 

[sdguy55]

An common now your first ****** isn't supposed to be made easy with a lift, you gotta do it on your back or in the fetal position!

Haha thats what ive heard. But now im spoiled

 

[sdguy55]

What i worked on today. Payloader that the engine and ****** have to come out...not alot of fun.

 

[Elroy]

Back lash

Run Out

Case Spread

 

[sdguy55]

Case spread? Interesting never heard that before...what exactly does that measure?

 

[Elroy]

Case spread? Interesting never heard that before...what exactly does that measure?

It's a physical measurement that is an indication of the preload on the carrier bearings

On a 9 inch Ford, Henry specifies .008 to .012 case spread with new carrier bearings and .005 to .008 with the original bearings. This spread is obtained using the right hand bearing nut (opposite ring gear) starting from zero back lash. Once the case spread is introduced the carrier bearings are properly preloaded and if all the other parts are right you'll have the correct back lash.

This Nodular Iron 31 spline Detroit locker with 3.70 Richmond's came out spot on.

Drive side

Coast

 

[straightup]

This thread doesn't specify auto/mechanic only photos. But that's all it has. I thought I'd offer something different.
This is what I was working on today. I've got a mix of Klein, Ideal, Knipex, Milwaukee, Fluke, Lenox, and Sargent tools in the photo.

The weather has been great for working outside!

 

[G_P]

^^^ Those look like some kind of crazy redneck hot tubs!!

 

[bigsteve1969]

Think that's bad, should have snapped some pics of the Acerts I just worked on recently, oil cooler on a C13 and a water pump / overhead on a C15 in a Pete 387, talk about cramped f%#kin quarters!!

i agree on the oil cooler on a c13 but have you done a waterpump on a sdp cat? talk about a pain

 

[straightup]

^^^ Those look like some kind of crazy redneck hot tubs!!

The weird thing is you're pretty close. "Hot Tub" is spot on.
They're glorified watering troughs with 2 10hp pumps attached.

 

[Keep]

I used mine to build this:

Cannot say I have any action shots, I work alone most of the time.

 

[sdguy55]

Engine and ****** out of payloader

 

[Altec]

Was that crow foot, and extension able to break the fitting loose?

 

[sdguy55]

I actually broke it loose with a wrench first. But it worked like a charm

 

[chumley360]

Well I don't have a lot of pics while I'm working but I do have one I like and a goofy video of my best tool.

Tool at work

 

[Altec]

I actually broke it loose with a wrench first. But it worked like a charm

Ah, I was mainly wondering about breaking it loose. I don't work on much hydro stuff, but there is a masonry chisel in the box for it! Easiest way I know to break large loses loose.

 

[Welderguy24]

One of our own trucks spun the #4 rod bearing in a C13 Acert. This is a 4 axle truck which pulls a 3 axle live bottom permitted to 108,000 lbs. Lets just say the small block and 10 speed combo was less than desirable. So out with the C13 and in with a 6TS 3406E big block and a 13 speed ******.

This is right after I pulled the motor with my new cart at my side.

EDIT: BTW the truck is a '06 KW T800B

 

[chumley360]

Well it's the setup before they go to work. It's tough pulling the torque wrench and snapping a picture alone. I'm torquing the 5th gear nut on a NV4500.

 

[Monte]

 

[cmandp]

removing the a-arms

Monte,
This isn't an S10 pickup, is it? The whole front suspension looks identical to my Chevrolet S10.

 

[CoSnipe]

 

[Harwinton]

I like this thread so heres my small contribution. I muck about in small engine stuff part time, so heres in our small shop. Doing a pretty basic axle bushing R&R on a mid-late 70s Ariens. Some of these can be giant pains in the asses but this one fell apart with ease. Testament to the quality of the day. Newer machines the hubs rust to the axles in a couple years. Dont even get me started on the big box store brands with plastic liners that swell under the hub. Anyway the worse of the two is actually from the opposite side i did before i snapped a few pics. Almost into the flange. Impacts, torches, and hammers are your friend with all the rust but one must be very careful tightening. I prefer my 1/4" ratchet. Either the studs are so small they break right off or the cast aluminum parts shatter. Doesnt take much force at all. Although it wasnt in for any engine work did an oil change on it anyway. Needed it too since it was down about 10 ounces from the original 20.

You know...I think I might have that exact same snow thrower! Got a good shot of yours from the top or side?

 

[CoSnipe]

Took it apart:

Put it back together 15 miles away 2 days later:

My truck is my biggest tool and hauls all my **** around.

From last year, 2 trucks to pull a V12 out of a 657E:

Exploded retarder as a result of bad motor mounts in a 627G CEX last month:

 

[Monte]

Monte,
This isn't an S10 pickup, is it? The whole front suspension looks identical to my Chevrolet S10.

it was a 90´s Buick Roadmaster station wagon. But you´re right the suspension is very similar.

 

[Linh]