Smaller Chainsaw?

[Ole Slewfoot]

By lesser, I don't in any way mean smaller. Attack a 1/2" nut with a 1" wrench, and you would be there all day.

Now if your limb saw had run 1/2 as well, you probably still wold have got er done.

 

[6PTsocket]

AYP no longer exists. It was dissolved 11 years ago (2006) when Electrolux spun off Husqvarna into a new, independent company, whose primary products are lawn and forestry equipment.

The only place you will see reference to AYP is old parts listings. Husqvarna owns the former AYP facilities, specifically the manufacturing plant in Orangeburg, SC.

A lot if places online still refer to them as AYP, correctly or not. It it is now Husqvarna but it includes a whole mess of companies like Red Max, Poulan, Roper. Jobserd, Husqvarna and several more. They have a unified parts book. I know what Husqvsrna makes but a part that Poulan made for Sears comes up as a valid number on my local Husqvarna dealer's computer and he does not even sell Poulan. The history of Swedish tool conpanies was not my point. The fact that parts that one of their divisions made many years ago for Sears are still being made was my point.

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[JRC3]

This thread's right up my alley. I've been looking and considering a Stihl MS250, they can be had for about $225 from the local pawnshops. I was checking out CL and saw an Echo CS400. After some research I see it's comparable to the MS250. The CL guy only wants $80 for the Echo. Ad reads "Echo cs400 chainsaw runs and looks like new 18" bar" pics below. Trying to meet the guy late this afternoon to check it out.

Any specific things I should look for with this model? The yellow cover has me thrown a bit as I don't see that anywhere online.

My original thought was to buy the Stihl, fell the 3 trees I have, and then sell it for what I paid for it. The Stihl would be a piece of cake to re-sale but for $80 I'd probably just keep the Echo.

 

[nh_yota]

Picked up a barely used Stihl MS250 at an estate sale two years ago and gave it to my dad for Father's Day. It works great and it always starts right up as long as you keep fresh gas in it. He doesn't need to cut any large trees down so it's perfect for cleanup and pruning.

 

[wretched73]

I picked up an Echo CS-370 with a 16" bar for less than $100 and I love it. Great for everything around the house

 

[4Kings]

This thread's right up my alley. I've been looking and considering a Stihl MS250, they can be had for about $225 from the local pawnshops. I was checking out CL and saw an Echo CS400. After some research I see it's comparable to the MS250. The CL guy only wants $80 for the Echo. Ad reads "Echo cs400 chainsaw runs and looks like new 18" bar" pics below. Trying to meet the guy late this afternoon to check it out.

Any specific things I should look for with this model? The yellow cover has me thrown a bit as I don't see that anywhere online.

My original thought was to buy the Stihl, fell the 3 trees I have, and then sell it for what I paid for it. The Stihl would be a piece of cake to re-sale but for $80 I'd probably just keep the Echo.

For 3 trees why not go to Home Depot and rent a saw for a couple hours. They'll rent you a Makita which is a Dolmar, very nice pro level saw

 

[deberly12]

For 3 trees why not go to Home Depot and rent a saw for a couple hours. They'll rent you a Makita which is a Dolmar, very nice pro level saw

Because everyman should own a chain saw!!!

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[Davefr]

Any specific things I should look for with this model? The yellow cover has me thrown a bit as I don't see that anywhere online.

As with any CL chainsaw purchase, pull the muffler and inspect the cylinder/piston wall, perform a compression test and make sure all the controls work.

The MS250 is a consumer grade saw. I generally don't like the Stihl consumer grade saws. For $225 you're not too far away from a used Stihl 026/MS260 which is a professional grade saw and far superior to the MS250.

I'd gravitate towards the Echo over the MS250. Echo consumer saws are generally decent. (just not much in the way of dealer support)

I agree that rental might be the best way to go for real infrequent use.

 

[Finky198]

Because everyman should own a chain saw!!!

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I don't know about that I've met a few that couldn't be trusted.
A chainsaw is a great tool, but should only be used if they feel comfortable handling it...

 

[JRC3]

As with any CL chainsaw purchase, pull the muffler and inspect the cylinder/piston wall, perform a compression test and make sure all the controls work.

Good point, I think it might be a woman selling it ans she may not let me pull the muffler. I'll bring a compression tester, I think I'm looking for about 170, right? *edit* I see it's 127 on the CS400.

For 3 trees why not go to Home Depot and rent a saw for a couple hours. They'll rent you a Makita which is a Dolmar, very nice pro level saw

I don't want to do it all at once. 2 should've been done last year and one I may may wait til the fall. One of them hangs right over a service line from the garage to sub my house. It needs done first.

My parents are downsizing and I got a old McCulloch PM610 from my dad but he hasn't used it in 20 years. Hoping to get it up and running only for the big stuff. I want something light and easy like the CS400 for all the limb work. This McCullohis a heavy beast.

He also gave me an old Homelite top handle. Looks like it's only been used one time, if that. I don't want to take time right now to clean it out and it also does not have a chain catcher. It may be good some day but right now I don't want to tinker with an old saw, I want to cut.

 

[Tennessee Cattleman]

The Stihl MS 241 C-M is a good small saw for heavy duty use, have one.

 

[bpjr]

You don't need much of a saw just for three trees. Even a new cheap brand consumer grade will do way more than that without problems. From what I've seen most of the problems with any brand is dirty carbs.

 

[Cope]

The Stihl MS 241 C-M is a good small saw for heavy duty use, have one.

I was going to buy one after getting my MS362CM, but my old 025 still does a better job than it should.

 

[JRC3]

So I picked up the chainsaw yesterday. Got to the guy's house before he got home from work and he dug the saw out and it fired on the third pull. Good compression and the controls work perfectly so I gave him the $80. I did notice the chain catcher had been hit a few times and was bent. He lives on a farm and I guess this was the saw he let his wife use and my guess she let the chain get too loose...Or, he had two big Stilhs and a Husqi and this was his first saw, probably both.

Which probably led to these problems...The outside guide plate is worn through and the sprocket has some wear. Does that sprocket look too worn? I think it's fine. The guide will definitely be replace for $8. And of course the bar is wore out, but I expected that. Oh, and that yellow cover I questioned earlier, painted.

 

[CR888]

The sprocket has wear but not worn out yet still has some life. Why is the bar worn out? A flat file will shave off the burrs and bring it back to serviceable condition usually. A shot of grease in the sprocket nose if it has a grease hole. If your buying some parts it may be a good idea to grab a spare spur sprocket, a raker (depth gauge) file and some round chain files. I think they run 3/8(pitch) 0.50(gauge) lo profile chain. It may be .325 chain possibly too. Your bar should have details on it toward the saw end. Good little saws them, well done.

 

[Cope]

The sprocket has wear but not worn out yet still has some life. Why is the bar worn out? A flat file will shave off the burrs and bring it back to serviceable condition usually. A shot of grease in the sprocket nose if it has a grease hole. If your buying some parts it may be a good idea to grab a spare spur sprocket, a raker (depth gauge) file and some round chain files. I think they run 3/8(pitch) 0.50(gauge) lo profile chain. It may be .325 chain possibly too. Your bar should have details on it toward the saw end. Good little saws them, well done.

I always flip the bar with each chain swap. De-bur also.

 

[JRC3]

The sprocket has wear but not worn out yet still has some life. Why is the bar worn out? A flat file will shave off the burrs and bring it back to serviceable condition usually. A shot of grease in the sprocket nose if it has a grease hole.

You were correct. I straightened the bar, filed the burrs, cleaned the groove and checked with a wire feeler gauge, flipped it and it's good to go. All I'm gonna replace is that worn $8 guide plate. ...And maybe the chain because I don't know what it's been through. Pretty sure my dad has a few that he bought at the end of the season on clearance.

I pulled the muffler and the piston is perfectly smooth. It also fires up on the second pull when it's dead cold. Should be good to go for 88 bucks.

 

[hangfirew8]

All I'm gonna replace is that worn $8 guide plate. ...And maybe the chain because I don't know what it's been through.

By all means add another chain, you need a spare, have the old one professionally sharpened to get it into a known state.

Then get yourself a flat file, chainsaw (round) file, and learn how to sharpen yourself. The chainsaw shop that you got it sharpened at will help you pick out the right round file. You will be amazed at 1.) how easy it is and 2.) how well a broken-in, file-sharpened chain will cut compared to a new "sharp" chain. It takes less time then a run to the local chainsaw shop.

 

[CR888]

If I'm filing I don't use jigs or file guides as I have been doing it for years, I mostly grind my chains on an Oregon 511ax grinder. It don't matter how good or powerful your saw is, it simply won't perform without a correctly sharpened chain. A chain cutter and depth gauge has several angles that need to be right for it to cut smooth and fast. I suggest some sort of filing guide would assist you while learning, they guide you with file height and top plate angle. Learning to file is MOST important for you to enjoy cutting with your saw, also correctly setting raker height is essential. As the cutter gets filed back through its life the depth gauges need to be 'progressively' reduced in height. You can get a simple cheap guide for this too. Going to a dealer every time your chain gets blunt is PITA, costly & time consuming. Good luck and post any questions.

 

[deberly12]

These guys are spot on. A chain can benefit from being sharpened after only 2 hours or so of in wood time. And even less if you are cutting dirty wood or aren't good about what you touch below the log. I started just sharpening free hand. Round file and a flat file with no guides. I had a couple chains that started cutting crooked after 10 or 15 sharpenings. These can be corrected by a professional sharpening. I just bought new because all the local shops wanted $16-18 to sharpen them and a new one was $22. When I find a shop with a reasonable price I will get them all sharpened and have some spares. It takes a little practice free hand but once you get a feel for it you wonder need to fumble around with all the different guides.

Long story short. Spend 5 bucks for the files and a few hours of time. You will save yourself hundreds over the years taking them to a shop to be sharpened or replacing them.

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[4Kings]

I've used one of these kits for years. Since everything's in the roll it's easy to take it with you for those in field touchups.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/accessories/chain-saws/completefilekits/

 

[Tummler]

I picked one if these up a couple years ago, and it is my favorite hand filing system by far:

https://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[JRC3]

Picked these up today. Need to return that chain, it's all Menards had. After looking I see it a tool-polisher chain. https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...6-c-10109.htm?tid=-6666899385218503252&ipos=1

 

[CR888]

Count the drive tangs on your old chain so you know how many drive links you need for a replacement. Whats wrong with the Menard's Oregon chain.....is it a safety chain with ramps/safety humps? Oregon makes decent chain, are you cutting clean wood or dirty wood?

 

[JRC3]

^
Not sure how to consider my wood, dirty or clean (see pics). That particular Oregon chain seems like it may not be very aggressive and may take longer. No matter what it will be a back up but I'd rather have it fast cutting.


The winter pics were taken from the foreclosure listing. The tree I'm most concerned with has water rotting it from the inside. It also has a big knarly limb that hangs over my house service line from the garage and it's close to my garage and shed. I'm gonna rent a tow lift and take that limb and braches down in small pieces. The lift will be used for everything else too. I wish I'd done this before the spring before the bloom.

I can rotate those pics every other way but the forum shows them sideways. Thank the forum attachments.

 

[deberly12]

S62 is a chamfer chisel chain if I'm not mistaken. It will not cut as fast as a full chisel but won't kick back as badly and is far less damaged by contact to dirt. Thus the question about dirty wood. Except in strange circumstances standing wood is clean. Dirty wood is usually meant as wood that is literally covered in dirt from skidding or some other reason.

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[JRC3]

Got some good deals on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222531547054

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272690041876

 

[franzdom]

Darn GJ I now am the proud owner of a Stihl MS-150. Overpriced power hand saw but so nice!

 

[JRC3]

Worked on my three trees today. The Echo CS-400 is a fricking champ. Starts on the first half pull every time. I had a new chain on it and it seemed a bit boggy and slow. That cleared up after a few cuts. I got my 80 bucks worth, for sure.

Rental guy told me to watch the bucket control because used ones sell for over a thousand bucks. Not sure, but I could see several reason why they could walk off.

 

[deberly12]

Very cool...hope you had fun with it!!

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[JRC3]

Had to drag out the CS-400 yesterday. A tree fell at one of my parent's ****** rental properties. It fell against a garage there and I cut as much as I could. Gonna try and drag it off with a chain and truck next weekend. As you can see the 18" bar needs access from both sides and I got as much as I could. Nasty wet wood.

I hit a cavity full of fat grubs. I collected them and might put them in a live trap to lure in my skunks.

 

[Ralf11]

you guys in search of a 2nd or 3rd small saw will want to check out this puppy

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chainsaws/Arborist-saws/2102617-140/tc-e.aspx

 

[bob15]

you guys in search of a 2nd or 3rd small saw will want to check out this puppy

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chainsaws/Arborist-saws/2102617-140/tc-e.aspx

I'll stick with the Echo top handle saws. I think they are a better saw.

 

[Farmall450]

Stay far away from the husky 141. I had 2 they were junk so I got an echo at HD. Nice saw powerful enough for most things light and reliable.


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Zombie thread but in my opinion, the Echo CS-352 or 3510 is the ideal 16" lightweight saw. Either will stuff a MS170/180.

 

[Farmall450]

This post was very useful for me. Thanks to those who commented. I came across while searching. I signed up immediately.

Awesome. His CS-400 is a good saw, but the bar is a bit thin for an 18" imo. My uncle's had some serious flex. For another $50 you can get the CS-490 which is an awesome, pro grade saw. 10 more links yet still an 18" chain if that says anything (albeit at a tighter pitch).

S62 is the AdvanceCut Oregon replacement for the 400; Q72 is my go to powercut for my CS-500P (501 aka pro 490).